Opening Hours

The Spanish eat much later than much of Europe; lunch starts around 2 or 3pm, with dinner any time after 9pm. Restaurants are usually open 1:30–4pm and 8:30–midnight. Many are closed one day of the week and during the month of August. Cafés and bars are open from around 7:30am, closing around 2am. It is difficult to get a drink or bite to eat after 4am.

The Menu

Multilingual menus are increasingly the norm. Many restaurants offer their best deal for lunch from Monday to Friday, so do as the Spaniards do and fill up from the menú del dia between 1:30 and 4pm. The fixed-price menu of the day usually includes three courses, wine and water.

Catalan Cuisine

Catalan cuisine is characterized by the meeting of mar i muntanya (surf and turf), and signature dishes include llagosta i pollastre (lobster and chicken). Side dish mainstays are samfaina (aubergine/ eggplant, grilled peppers, tomatoes and onion in olive oil and garlic) and escalivada (sweet peppers, onion and garlic). Other Catalan favourites are botifarra amb mongetes (Catalan sausage with white beans) and pa amb tomàquet (bread smeared with tomato and drizzled with olive oil). If innards are your thing, ask for call (tripe). For dessert, enjoy crema catalana, a custard topped with caramelized sugar.

Seafood & Paella

For prime seafood, head for the sea. Along Passeig Joan de Borbó in Barceloneta is a string of restaurants, many specializing in seafood and paellas. Seafood restaurants also abound in the Port Olímpic, where you can feast on fresh-off-the-boat fish and seafood on open-air terraces. Fresh seafood is served year-round, but the traditional day for paella is Thursday.

Vegetarian

Barcelona has a handful of vegetarian eateries. Carrer Pintor Fortuny, in El Raval, has a couple of options, including Biocenter (at number 25), with its all-you-can-eat salad bar. Vegetarians can also feast almost anywhere on an array of tapas, including patates braves (spicy potatoes) and truita de patates (potato omelette). If you eat fish, then you’ll be spoiled for choice.

Seasonal Specialities

From the end of the year until mid-Spring, try the Catalan speciality of cal-çots, sweet grilled scallions usually in a romes-co sauce (spicy tomato sauce). Another autumn favourite are bolets (mushrooms), usually lightly grilled and served with a sprinkling of olive oil.

Etiquette

Some restrictions for smoking in bars or restaurants apply from January 2006. Dress codes rarely apply.

Tipping

Tipping is not expected in most establishments, so it’s up to your own preference and how you rate the service. If leaving a tip, five per cent is usually acceptable. In upscale restaurants, however, a tip of 10 per cent is the norm. Catalans occasionally tip at the bar, perhaps leaving the small change from their drinks bill.

Children

The Spanish are relaxed about bringing children to restaurants and bars. Though kids’ menus are rare, restaurants are often willing to serve half portions on request.

Disabled Access

All new restaurants must be wheelchair accessible by law, which includes access from the street to the dining room and at least one accessible bathroom. Contact the Institut Municipal de Persones amb Disminució (see Disabled Travellers) for a list of accessible restaurants. And always call ahead to double check.