Shop Hours

Most shops follow normal business hours and open at 8–9am, shut for lunch until 3–4pm, and close around 6–8pm. In tourist areas and at larger stores, the lunch break (riposo) is slowly disappearing in favour of orario continuato (open all day).

Haggling

Expected in markets (see Top 10 Markets), but hardly ever in shops. Many market stall-holders now hail from Middle Eastern countries where bargaining is an art form, so be ready to do the full ritual, including acting less and less interested, while the merchant acts ever more offended and claims he can go no lower. He will not sell it for less than a profit, so any price agreed upon is acceptable.

VAT Refunds

Italy’s Value Added Tax (IVA) is a sales tax already added on to the sticker price of every item. If you are a non-EU resident and spend more than €155 in a single shop, you can get the tax refunded. Ask the store to help you fill out the forms; then take these and the receipts to the customs office at the airport of the last EU country you’ll be visiting to complete the paper­work. Your refund will be posted but it may take months. Stores marked “Tax-Free Shopping for Tourists” speed up the process, giving you a cheque for the customs office to stamp, then you redeem it at the airport’s Tax-Free Shopping desk.

Customs Limits

UK and Irish citizens can bring home virtually anything duty-free (although theoretical amounts such as 90 litres of wine apply). US citizens are limited to $400 worth of goods duty-free, including 200 cigarettes and 100 cigars. Canadian, Australian and New Zealand limitations are similar. Only British and EU residents may export flowers, fruits, vegetables, meats (unless tinned) and soft cheeses.

Wine

New anti-terrorism legislation means that you can no longer take on board wine that is purchased outside the airport. Shipping wine home is a good alternative but can be expensive.

Fashion and Stock Houses

Designer fashion is rarely cheaper than back home, but there is the cachet of having found those great shoes in Rome. Stock houses sell last year’s styles, overstock, slight irregulars or items that won’t sell in boutiques, offering a variety of labels at prices from 40–80 per cent lower than normal.

Art and Antiques

As the heart of the Roman Empire and an epicentre of the Renaissance and Baroque, Rome is full of antiquities, paintings and sculpture from the Middle Ages to today. There’s also a good market in furnishings from Renaissance-era to Art Nouveau to simple, country-style pieces. Note that exporting goods requires correct paperwork.

Design Objects

Italians are masters of industrial design, from Ferraris to Alessi kettles. If the Ferrari doesn’t fit your budget, consider shopping for kitchen implements, homewares or lighting systems, many sketched out by top international designers.

Religious Objects

Religious mementos, from kitsch, to solemn, to the classy, are hawked from stands and shops around the Vatican and, to some extent, across Rome. You can bring your purchase to the Wednesday Papal audience, during which he issues a mass blessing.

Crafts

Italy is renowned for hand-painted ceramics – a souvenir with a practical use. Rome is also home to many fine jewellers, from big names such as Bulgari to artisans labouring in small boutiques.