The intake, flow, and exhaust of liquids and gases are factors in the everyday operation of a house. But too often, we so take for granted that everything will move smoothly that one day things take a very bad turn.

My kids went to nursery school in a neighboring town, a couple of miles from where we live. I didn’t mind the commute; driving them to school, we’d pass some very beautiful houses. And since I love houses, it was a fun drive for me.

One day, while on the way to preschool, I was shocked to see that one of my favorite old farmhouses was in ruins. Except for the fireplace and chimney, the place was gone—burned to the ground. Later that week, I found out why. The newspaper reported that the fire had started in the clothes dryer when lint ignited. Fortunately, no one was hurt, but it was several years before that beautiful home was finally rebuilt.

I don’t mean to scare you, but you must take care of all the filters and hoses that your systems and appliances use. Neglecting them can have negative consequences; keeping them in shape is an essential chore.

The house fire caused by a dryer put me on a campaign to keep my own appliance free from fluff. If you ever hang around when the dryer is doing its work, you’ll notice that the heating element gets bright red as the clothes turn in the drying drum. You want to keep the hose that vents the damp air to the outside, and the cavity where the lint trap captures other fibers, very clean. Lint is highly flammable, so clean the filter faithfully every time you use the dryer, and follow these instructions for cleaning the hose—every month, if you do a lot of laundry.

You’ll need the following:

A couple of years ago, I came home from running an errand and heard the sound of rushing water (like a waterfall!) coming from my basement. I tore down the stairs and saw what looked like the Old Faithful geyser spewing water from behind my washing machine.

I immediately cut off the water at the supply stop behind the washer, but there was quite a pool on the floor. I cut the power to the washing machine (at the electrical panel), then unplugged it and moved the appliance back from the wall.

The washer was about 15 years old, and so were the hoses that ran from the supply valve to the machine. Made of rubber, they had grown brittle and corroded with minerals from our well water over the years. One of them finally split; that’s what caused the gusher. I’d never given them a thought before the split.

If you’ve had your washing machine for eight years or more, it might be wise to replace the supply hoses now, before they do to you what mine did to me! Insurance companies—who often wind up paying out for the damage done by burst hoses—advise homeowners to replace supply hoses every 3 to 5 years.

You’ll need the following:

After my washing machine supply hose burst, I was much more sensitive to the potential for this problem. We installed a stainless steel mesh hose in place of the old rubber one, because the label said it wouldn’t burst. It cost about twice what an ordinary rubber supply hose costs. But I figured, “burst-proof” sounds like a fix-it-and-forget-it option to me.

No so fast.

Insurance companies note that, while these hoses have lower failure rates than ordinary rubber hose, they can still leak. Factors like the chemical content of your water, the age of the hose, and the nonmetal interiors that may deteriorate, can lead to a breakdown. Inspect them whenever you do your routine home inspection (see Chapters 18 and 19). And replace them on the same 3-5-year cycle as you would an ordinary rubber hose.

If your washing machine is filling slowly, or if, when replacing the water supply hoses, you notice that the little filters in the washing machine water inlets are grubby, you’ll need to clean or replace them..

You’ll need the following:

Follow Steps 1-4 for “Replacing Washing Machine Supply Hoses” described earlier. If the inlets are not clearly marked “H” and “C” label them with pieces of masking tape before you remove the hoses, so you can properly reconnect the hoses when you’re done.

If you live in a section of the country with four distinct seasons, as I do, then you’ll notice how your electric bill soars in the summer. The bill reflects the high cost of running air-conditioning. Room air conditioners can use even more power than a central system, especially if the filter is dirty and the appliance must work harder.

Every month during cooling season, you’ll need to clean or replace the filter on every room air conditioner in your home.

You’ll need the following:

If your heating system includes a blower and ducts that deliver heat to the various rooms in your house, this forced-air system, as it is known, will have a filter to screen out dirt and debris that collect in the system. Usually the filter is located on the return-air side of the system. Refer to your owner’s manual or ask your heating professional if you can’t locate the filter.

There’s usually a little fitting or clip that holds the filter in place. You should be able to easily remove it. You need to replace it with the same-sized filter; these are sold in supermarkets, hardware stores, even drugstores.

Change a disposable filter every month during heating season.

If the filter in your system is reusable, you still need to clean it every month in heating season. Remove it, and wash and rinse it in the tub or in your utility sink. This is easier if you have a sprayer or can attach one to your tub or sink spout. Make sure the filter is thoroughly dry before replacing it.

Nearly everyone with a cooktop or a range also has some type of fan or hood to exhaust the smoke, grease particles, and steam that are byproducts of cooking.

The most common grease filters are made of wire mesh. Most can be washed in the dishwasher. Otherwise, give them a good soaking in warm water and dishwashing liquid. Carefully scrub them with a nonabrasive (blue) pad, and do this gently, so you don’t crush the mesh.

Fin-type metal filters are also dishwasher safe; in fact, this is the best way to clean them. Stainless steel should not be scrubbed with abrasives of any kind—these will permanently scratch the metal. If you need to remove greasy film from the filter, use a nonabrasive (blue) plastic pad.