Chapter 17
Safety Must-Haves
In This Chapter
• The most important device to install and maintain
• Facts about carbon monoxide detectors and fire extinguishers
• Creating a family emergency escape plan
• Critical information to leave with caretakers/caregivers while you’re away
With your newfound repair skills, you ought to be able to keep your place running pretty smoothly. But unless you’re equipped for real emergencies, all the repairs in this book will not keep you, your family, or your home safe. You need to have the right safety equipment in your house, and know how to use and maintain it. You also need to train your family members how to exit the house in an emergency, and know where everyone will meet up once they’re out. Finally, when you have someone watching your home while you’re away, you need to give them the critical emergency and repair information, should they need to address a problem with your house in your absence. It’s probably true that you don’t keep your plumber’s phone number in your pocket when you go on vacation!

Your #1 Safety Device: Smoke Detectors

The modern smoke detector was patented in 1969; since then, this simple, inexpensive household device has saved countless lives. And it can save yours.
There’s only one thing to remember once you’ve installed smoke detectors: you must maintain them. This is critical; a smoke detector that’s not working because of a tripped circuit breaker or a dead or removed battery is worthless.

Chirpy Smoke Detector

Sometimes folks get annoyed because their smoke detector is chirping. This can mean a couple of things:
The batteries are losing their charge. Test the alarm; if it doesn’t sound, replace the batteries immediately. Battery-operated smoke detectors and most hard-wired detectors (connected to your electric system, with battery backup) use 9-volt alkaline batteries. Keep a supply of 9-volt batteries just for this purpose.
Dust and debris are confounding the detector and making it chirp. If the test shows that the alarm is still working—the batteries are good—check the instructions that came with the device, if you have them. You may need to vacuum the detector with the soft brush attachment of your vacuum cleaner. If you can’t stop the chirping, replace the detector. Do not remove the battery and leave a nonworking detector to protect your family. Many people have been injured or died in fires because they removed a battery rather than replacing the detector—usually an inexpensive (under $12) item.
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What Pros Know
The instructions for your safety equipment should be filed in your personal home workbook with other use and care information. It will help you maintain the protection that safety gear in working order affords to you and your family.
The National Fire Protection Association recommends replacing smoke detectors every 10 years—even if they don’t chirp!

Testing the Smoke Detector Alarm

The ear-splitting beep of the detector is its life-saving feature; this alarm is designed to rouse even the heaviest sleeper.
Every month, test every detector in your house by pressing the test button on the surface of the detector for a few seconds. If the beep doesn’t sound, replace the battery. If the new battery doesn’t make the alarm go off when you test it, replace the detector.
If your smoke detectors are hard-wired (connected to your electrical system), and they don’t sound when you press the test button, check to see that the circuit breaker on your electrical panel that controls the detectors is in the “on” position. If it is not, flip it on. If the detectors still don’t beep when tested, call an electrician.
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Test your alarm monthly.

Replacing the Batteries

In general, fresh batteries last at least a year. However, most safety organizations recommend that you change the batteries in the smoke detector every time you change the clocks (spring ahead, fall back) as an extra precaution—it’s a routine that’s easy to remember.

Smoke Detector Placement

Smoke detectors should be installed on every level of the home, and near sleeping areas. If you or your family members sleep with bedroom doors closed, install the smoke detector inside the bedroom. Smoke rises, so install the detectors on a ceiling, or on the wall close to the ceiling.
Avoid installing detectors near heating appliances, windows, or close to ceiling fans, which can foil the effectiveness of the detector, or cause conditions that make it sound when no smoke or fire conditions exist.
Smoke detector locations.
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Carbon Monoxide Detector

Carbon monoxide (CO) is a colorless, odorless gas that is the product of incomplete combustion from any device that is not electrically fueled: gas ranges, ovens, clothes dryers, furnaces, grills, space heaters, water heaters, fireplaces, and vehicles. Open flames produced by ovens and ranges are the most common sources of carbon monoxide; vehicles cause the most carbon monoxide poisoning.
Because you can’t see or smell carbon monoxide, it is potentially lethal. Carbon monoxide detectors with an audible alarm have been around for the past twenty years.
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Ounce of Prevention
While smoke detectors, if maintained, will last ten years or more, carbon monoxide detectors do not have similar longevity. CO detectors should be replaced every two years. Mark the date of installation on the cover of your CO detectors when you put them up.

Installing the CO Detector

Carbon monoxide detectors can be mounted on the wall at least five feet above the floor, or mounted on the ceiling.
Place a CO detector in the sleeping areas in your home. Because it is impossible to detect, a lethal dose of CO is most dangerous to sleepers.
Because CO is often produced by heat sources, do not install the detector close to gas appliances or near a fireplace; it will often give you a false alarm when placed in these locations.

Replacing the CO Detector Battery

Replace the battery when you replace smoke detector batteries; like smoke detector batteries, check the CO detector alarm once a month. You may have to hold down the tester button for 5-10 seconds to sound the alarm.

If the CO Alarm Goes Off

Don’t ignore this alarm. Get all members of your household (including pets) out of the house immediately and call 911. Know the symptoms of CO poisoning:
• Low-level CO poisoning prompts flu-like symptoms: mild headache, nausea, slight shortness of breath from mild exertion.
• Higher levels of poisoning cause dizziness, mental confusion, severe headache, nausea, and fainting.
If the alarm sounds and any members of the household have these symptoms, call 911.

Fire Extinguisher Facts

You always hear the caution to keep a fire extinguisher in the kitchen and the garage, and any place else where there’s danger of a sudden fire. But how much do you really know about fire extinguishers?
Do you know how they work?
Do you know what types of fires your fire extinguisher will put out?
Is your fire extinguisher in good working order? How can you tell?
In fact, unless a fire is quite small—in a frying pan, or a wastebasket—most fire prevention authorities would prefer you to leave the house and leave the firefighting to the professionals.
But here are some things you should know:
• Household extinguishers are labeled A, B, or C; these letters indicate the type of fire the device can extinguish. Class A fires are ordinary combustible materials—paper, cloth, wood, rubber, and many plastics; Class B fires are fires caused by flammable liquids—oils, gasoline, paints, grease, solvents, and the like; Class C fires are electrical—in wiring, fuse boxes, electrical equipment, computers, etc.
• Home fire extinguishers labeled ABC will work on all three classes of fires, and are known as all-purpose extinguishers.
• If you look at the fine print on extinguishers, you’ll see numbers next to the letters A and B. These numbers refer to the amount of fire suppression available in the extinguisher. In general, the higher the numbers, the more extinguishing power is available (and usually, the more expensive the unit). There are no numbers associated with the C designation; the dry chemicals contained in an extinguisher labeled C do not conduct electricity.
• Home fire extinguishers are either disposable or rechargeable; generally, disposable models have plastic valves, rechargeable models have metal valves.
• Purchase at least three extinguishers of the correct type (three ABC for the most versatile equipment) to keep in the kitchen, basement if applicable, and garage. If you use flammable materials in other rooms, then have one for each of those spaces as well.

Using the Extinguisher

Don’t try to use an extinguisher to put out a fire if you are not familiar with its operation. The contents of this device are under pressure and come out with some force. Practice using the extinguisher before you need it so you will know how it works. That said, when you use an extinguisher—even to try it—it must be recharged right away (if it is rechargeable) or discarded. A partially discharged extinguisher is useless. Yes, it’s an expense to have to discard a non-rechargeable extinguisher after practicing with it, but it’s worth it.
To use the extinguisher, remember the acronym P.A.S.S.:
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What Pros Know
Many fire departments offer training in extinguisher use; if you are unsure how to work these devices and don’t wish to practice with your own, get some instruction!
Pull the extinguisher’s safety pin.
Aim low, pointing the extinguisher’s nozzle at the base of the flames; stand away from the fire—6 feet or more.
Squeeze the extinguisher handle to release the extinguishing agent. Keep the extinguisher upright.
Sweep from side to side at the base of the fire until the unit is fully discharged.

Storing the Extinguisher

Don’t put the extinguisher in the back of a closet or cabinet. Fire can spread rapidly, and you may endanger yourself or others while trying to get to the extinguisher in an emergency. The wall near the entry to the kitchen, garage, or basement is a logical place to mount a fire extinguisher.

Maintaining the Extinguisher

When you check your smoke and CO detectors every month, put your extinguishers on the safety route, too. Check the following:
• The needle in the pressure gauge on the extinguisher is in the green (charged) zone. If not, have it recharged or replace it.
• The unit is not blocked by anything that would interfere with access in an emergency.
• The pin and seal (if there is one) are intact.
• The unit shows no signs of wear, such as rust, leaks, corrosion, or dents.

Emergency Exit: Your Family Plan

Emergencies that happen can be scary for everyone in the family—children and adults. If the smoke or CO alarm goes off in your house, does everyone know what to do? You all should.
Getting cooperation on making an emergency escape plan can be difficult; it sounds like chores! Make it into a contest; dream up a prize for whoever can perform the drill in the least time. Serve a treat when you finish practicing. Do what you have to do so that your family knows what to do if there’s an emergency and they have to leave the house quickly.
Here are the procedures that you need to review with your family members. Be sure to cover all the points:
1. Find two ways out of every room. Obviously, the first route is the door. Make sure everyone can open the door easily. Teach everyone to feel around the door frame with the back of their hand; if their hands feel warm when they check, it means fire is near. They need to use the second exit.
• If the second exit is a window, can you get to it easily? Remove anything blocking it. Does the window open easily? If not, you’ll need to unstick it so it does (see Chapter 8).
• Is a room with a window exit on the second floor (or higher)? You will need a safety ladder for window egress from every room where a window more than 3 feet above the ground is the second exit. These ladders are an investment you should make right away.
• Practice using the escape ladder from a first-story window with your children, so they are familiar with how to set it in the window.
2. Once everyone knows two ways out of each room, practice the exit routes. Figure out if there are any obstructions along the way that would impede children or elderly family members, and remove the obstructions.
Practice a “smoky exit.” When there’s smoke, you need to crouch low in order to breathe more easily. Have the family do a crouching exit, for practice.
3. Decide together on a meeting place away from the house. We made our meeting place our kids’ swing set; it was away from the house, and easy to see from most vantage points.
4. Run an emergency drill. You can do this on a weekend night when everyone’s home. Press the test button on the smoke detector, and look at your watch. When everyone has arrived at the family meeting place, check your watch again to see how long it took. Figure out any problems with your plan and then fix them:
• Doors hard to open? (Fix locks and latches.)
• Hard to see? (Put a flashlight on every bedside table.)
• Bumping into things? (Clear all obstructions.)
Run through your escape plan every couple of weeks until it’s automatic. Then do it at least twice a year—perhaps when you change your smoke detector batteries.

Your Little Red Book

When you’re away and someone else is watching your home, or more important, taking care of your children and/or pets, your caretaker/caregiver needs to know how to use your home’s main controls, and whom to call if things should go wrong in a hurry. Get yourself a notebook with a red cover (red is easy to see and broadcasts “important”).
In addition to standard emergency info—numbers where you can be reached, emergency service numbers (police, fire, ambulance), doctors (for your children)—you should list the following:
□ Gas, electric, and phone company emergency contact numbers
□ Plumber and electrician phone numbers
□ Any friend or neighbor’s phone number who has a spare key
□ The location of shutoffs for gas, water, and electricity
□ Your emergency exit plan and meeting location
□ Pet veterinarian and emergency vet numbers
Making the safety preparations detailed in this chapter takes only a little time, and it’s time well spent. Doing everything that’s within your power to protect your home and family is its own reward. My wish to every reader is that none of this equipment will ever need to be put to use in your home. But you’ll feel good just knowing it’s there and ready.

The Least You Need to Know

• Keep fresh 9-volt batteries in stock for your smoke detectors; test smoke and CO detectors once a month.
• A fire extinguisher labeled ABC will extinguish all three types of common household fires: ordinary combustibles like paper, flammable liquids, and electrical fires.
• Do not try to extinguish a blaze larger than wastebasket size yourself. Call 911.
• Prepare your family for emergencies by creating and practicing an exit strategy from your house, including a meeting place outside.
• Keep important information and contact numbers in a notebook for caretakers/ caregivers to refer to while you’re away.
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