If you’re like me, there are lots of things you’d rather do than home repairs. So, to avoid having to use this book much more than you’d like, this chapter will help you become a house detective, starting with your home’s interior. (I’ll cover exterior repairs in the following chapter.)

Good maintenance begins with regular inspection. You can do this every season, or in spring and fall, after your home has endured the months of most extreme weather. Spring and fall are probably the times when you schedule your most intense cleanup efforts anyway. So, while you’re at it, take a good look at things as you go through the house. Be brave, grab a flashlight, and examine the nooks and crannies in the basement and your attic. If you know what to look for, you’ll save yourself time, money, and grief by stopping any deterioration of your home before it becomes a big and expensive problem.

If you like detective novels, you know that a good p.i. (that’s private investigator for the uninitiated) notices details: the color of a car, the sound of a voice. That’s how he or she comes up with clues that will help solve a mystery by the end of the book.

To do a good home inspection, you need to focus on the details of your house, looking for clues that it’s running fine, or on the downside, that it could use a little TLC in some areas.

Inside the house, you won’t need too many tools to do a thorough inspection. But you will need the following:

Without going to the tool bag or the supply closet, you already have the best resources for checking your house: your senses. Observing, listening, touching, smelling—the only one of the five I don’t recommend using during an inspection is your sense of taste—all of these faculties will alert you when something is going wrong with your house. Use them.

In Appendix C, you’ll find two sets of checklists that will help you zero in on the fine points of your house: one for interiors and one for exteriors. They list just about everything related to your home’s structure and systems that you should check out regularly.

Each part of the checklists is organized very much like this book. It proceeds from surface elements (walls, floors, ceilings, etc.) to the systems and appliances you’ll find in the various rooms.

For interior inspections, there are individual checklists for rooms with heating, cooling, or plumbing fixtures, appliances, or system controls (basement/utility/laundry room; kitchen; bathroom). There is also a general checklist for rooms without these more complicated features (bedrooms, family room, living room, dining room). Start the process by making copies for performing your first inspection, as directed in Appendix C.

When you use each checklist, there are spaces for you to note the condition of each element. You can also note whether the item is something you can handle yourself, or something that needs professional service/repair.

If you don’t have a basement, you may have a utility room where the electrical panel, heating equipment, and other service controls are located. Laundry equipment is also listed on this checklist, if you have a separate laundry room.

Surfaces: First check surfaces—walls, floors, ceilings, stairs—for signs of deterioration or water intrusion. Note any damage or defect that needs repair. You will probably be able to do some yourself, using Chapters 5-7. If a surface needs attention or repair, you might want to mark the area with a chalked “x” so you can find it later (chalk will wipe off). Pay attention to the basement ceiling, if the joists are exposed. If there is any evidence of water damage or other deterioration, you can try sticking the tip of your screwdriver into a joist that doesn’t look “right.” If the screwdriver goes in easily, you may have a problem with rot. Call a pro.

Windows and doors: If your basement or utility room has windows or doors, operate these. Windows should open and close smoothly; the door or doors should also open/ close properly. Note any cleaning or lubrication necessary for these moving parts. Repairs described in Chapters 8 and 9 may help here.

Electrical: DO NOT TOUCH THE PANEL IF THE FLOOR IS WET. Open the panel door (remember, only use one hand at the panel; the other should be at your side). Look for any signs of damage. Operate all light switches. Plug the lamp into every receptacle outlet; switch on the lamp to see that the outlet is working. Chapter 13 may come in handy.

Plumbing: Look for any signs of leaks or corrosion at the main water shutoff and at any pipe junctures. The signs are rust, crusty deposits, and of course, any standing water. Address leaks immediately. Chapters 4 and 10 apply.

Gas supply: If you have an inside main, check that the valve is in good condition, with no sign of deterioration or corrosion.

Heating/cooling: Your furnace or boiler, and your central air conditioner (if you have one), should be inspected and serviced by a professional every year. Note the date of the last service. If you are doing your interior inspection in the fall, make a note to call your heating professional now, before the heating season starts. If you have a water heating system, fall is a good time to bleed your radiators (see Chapter 16).

Hot water: If you have never drained your water heater, please see Chapter 16 to find out how to do this, and how to check the pressure relief valve.

Laundry equipment: Check that the valve that links the washing machine hoses to the water supply turns on and off easily. When it’s not used for years, this shut-off can freeze up—a big problem if the water’s on and your washing machine hose starts to leak! Also check the dryer vent and the back of the dryer for evidence of lint. Lint is highly flammable; if you haven’t cleaned the dryer vent recently, see Chapter 14.

Safety equipment: You should have a smoke detector near the entry to your basement or utility room. Check that it is operating, and also check the fire extinguisher, if you have one in this area (see Chapter 17 if you don’t know how to run this check).

Surfaces: Bathroom surfaces may include tile, grout, and caulk (sealant). Check all of these for signs of deterioration, mold, or mildew. Because water pipes may go through walls and under floors in the bathroom, check for any sign of water infiltration: bubbling or lifted wallpaper seams, stained paint, popped nails (see Chapters 5 and 6).

Openings: Check doors and windows for ease of opening/closing. Since humidity can be a problem in bathroom environments, look at metal parts: hinges, doorknobs, locks, strikes. Note any rust. You can clean rust with a wire brush, but rusting metal is a sign of too much humidity. You may need a dehumidifier or a more powerful exhaust fan in your bathroom.

Electrical: Check the operation of all lights and outlets. Test the GFCI receptacles (see Chapter 13).

Heating/cooling: Check that heating and cooling devices (baseboard heaters, heating or a/c vents, radiators) are clean and unobstructed by furnishings.

Plumbing: Operate tub and sink faucets and stoppers; make note of any leaks or mechanical problems. Check the condition of all drains; water should flow out freely. Check under the sink and behind toilet for signs of leaks. Operate the showerhead; check its spray and pivoting mechanism. Flush the toilet. Note any weak flush or running. (Refer to Chapters 11 and 12 for simple repairs.) Check the surfaces of all fixtures—sink, tub, toilet—for scratches or chips. Make note of any needed repairs. Make sure that supply stops for sink, toilet, and tub/shower (if accessible) turn on and off freely. Note any stops that need lubrication.

Surfaces: Because everything is susceptible to cooking grease and smoke that are byproducts of kitchens, note any surfaces that need cleaning, particularly light fixture covers, exhaust fan parts, and little-noticed places like the top of the refrigerator and the tops of cabinets. (You’ll need the stepladder; don’t climb on the counters!) Note the condition of floor coverings and any polishing, cleaning, or repair that might be necessary. Pay attention to the points where kitchen flooring meets other flooring; make sure screws, nails, or sills are tightly in place.

Openings: Note any drawers or cabinet doors that don’t open and close smoothly. Make a note to lubricate any hinges or drawer glides that are balky. Make sure hardware is secure (use a screwdriver to tighten loose knobs or pulls now). Shine a flashlight in the backs of cabinets and around openings for pipes and vents; this is the area where unwanted critters can enter the kitchen (mouse droppings look like small bits of graying rice—yuck!—see the later section of this chapter for what to do about it). Make sure windows and doors operate smoothly; note if they don’t. Refer to Chapters 8 and 9 for easy repairs you can do yourself.

Appliances: Note any problems you have with these, so that you can troubleshoot and call for repairs if necessary. Review Chapter 15 if you’re not sure what you’re looking for.

Heating/cooling: Check that heating and cooling devices (baseboard heaters, heating or a/c vents, radiators) are clean and unobstructed by furnishings.

Plumbing: Check faucets, sprays, and spouts for leaks or problems that require maintenance (see Chapter 11); check pipes under the sink for any evidence of leaks; try the supply stops and note if they need lubricating (they should open and close freely).

Electrical: Check that light fixtures, switches, and receptacles are operating; test GFCI receptacles (see Chapter 13).

Safety: You should have a smoke detector and fire extinguisher installed near the entrance to your kitchen. You should check these monthly, and during this inspection (see Chapter 17 for how to do this).

Access: Make sure the drop-down hatch or steps are operating properly.

Surfaces: Use your flashlight liberally to examine the ridge, rafters, and attic insulation for any signs of water penetration. Discolored or degraded insulation (possible mold) and water marks on the roof framing (leaks?) are cause for further investigation. Check that roof vents are screened, and that the screens are intact (this is a place where critters—rodents, birds, bees or hornets—can enter, and cause a lot of damage). If you see evidence of bats or flying, stinging insects, don’t try to handle this problem yourself. Leave the attic immediately, close the door or hatch, and call a pro.

Heating/cooling: Check that the attic fan (if you have one) is operating properly, and is unobstructed and clean. Shine a flashlight on heating/cooling ducts; check that seams in these ducts are intact.

For rooms without plumbing and appliances, you will be checking surfaces, openings, and heating and cooling units or vents.

Electrical: Check that switches and receptacles are all operating. Plug in a lamp to each outlet of every receptacle.

Plumbing/heating: Don’t forget to check closets; often, the chase where plumbing and heating pipes run from floor to floor is located in such an out-of-the-way place; you want to make sure there’s no evidence of water damage or critter entry.

If you find evidence of leaks or pests that have infiltrated your home from outside, you’ll have to plug any outside gaps to control these problems. See Chapter 19 for outside inspection and maintenance information.

If you’ve got insects that seem to have taken up residence indoors, or a mouse problem that won’t quit, you’ll either have to use insecticides or traps yourself, or call someone to do this unpleasant task.

Because professional exterminators are licensed to apply pesticides and remove critters (rodents, bats, wild birds), my advice is to get a company that is recommended by someone you know, and use them on a regular basis to inspect your home and remove any pests when and if a problem occurs.

It is in prevention that your DIY skills can be most effective. Here are some ideas to keep the inside of your home pest-free.

First, use common sense to avoid problems with bugs and critters:

Here are two DIY projects that can make two frequently overlooked areas of your home impervious to pests.

The vents that allow air to circulate in the attic spaces and along the ridge of your roof are usually large enough to admit many small creatures, as well as providing an entryway for flying and crawling insects to come in and build a nest in the rafters—not something you want!

Be sure you don’t have insects or critters already in residence. If you do, you’ll have to have an exterminator remove them. If you’ve got a resident critter and you don’t want to harm the little guy, you or your exterminator can try the live-trapping method before taking more extreme or lethal measures. Home supply stores sell live traps for this purpose.

To screen the vents you’ll need the following:

The edges of hardware cloth are very sharp. Wear gloves when you work with this material. Also wear safety goggles and cover your body when you work in the attic. If your house is insulated with fiberglass bats, you should avoid handling this material.

Rodents are especially attracted to areas of your home where there is a food supply. Although in desperation they’ll eat soap and other usually unpalatable items, your kitchen is where they want to be!

Mice can squeeze through very small spaces. If you notice gaps in the seams of your kitchen cabinet interiors, or spaces between pipes and the surfaces through which they come into your kitchen, you can make them less vulnerable.

You’ll need the following:

Wearing work gloves, use the screwdriver to work chunks of steel wool into the cracks noted above. Or you can spray these gaps with insulating spray foam (the foam will keep drafts out, too!). Mice and other critters will not be able to gnaw through these two substances.

In addition to the cost of your mortgage, homeowners’ insurance, and real estate taxes, homeownership makes other demands on your pocketbook. You should try to set aside money on a regular basis for keeping up your house. Doing some of the small repair and maintenance chores outlined in this book will save you a lot, and help you set money aside for equipment, appliances, and other major elements of your house that may need extensive repair or replacement as the years go by.

I’ve read advice to put away 1 or 2 percent of the purchase price of your home, every year, so you’ll have money when something big breaks down. I think this is a good guideline.

Here’s a list of large household items and their average life spans: