Chapter 2
IN THIS CHAPTER
Investing for short-term consumption goals
Working toward a home purchase
Planning for financial independence/retirement
Assessing your desire to take risk
Saving and investing money can make you feel good and in control. Ultimately, most folks are investing money to accomplish particular goals. Saving and investing for a car purchase, expenses for higher education, a home purchase, new furniture, or a vacation are typical short-term goals. You can also invest toward longer-term goals, such as your financial independence or retirement decades in the future.
In this chapter, I discuss how you can use investments to accomplish common shorter- and longer-term goals.
Unless you earn really big bucks or expect to have a large family inheritance to tap, your personal and financial desires will probably outstrip your resources. Thus, you must prioritize your goals.
One of the biggest mistakes I see people make is rushing into a financial decision without considering what’s really important to them. Because many people get caught up in the responsibilities of their daily lives, they often don’t have time for reflection. Take that time, because people who identify their goals and then work toward them, which often requires changing some habits, accomplish their goals.
In this section, I discuss common “shorter-term” financial goals — such as establishing an emergency reserve, making major purchases, owning a home, and starting a small business — and how to work toward them. Accomplishing such goals almost always requires saving money.
The future is unpredictable. Take the uncertainty simply surrounding your job: You could lose your job, or you might want to leave it. Because you don’t know what the future holds, preparing for the unexpected is financially wise. Enter the emergency or rainy-day fund.
The size of your emergency fund depends on your personal situation. Begin by considering how much you spend in a typical month. Here are some benchmarks for how many months’ worth of living expenses you should have:
Most people want things — such as furniture, a vacation, or a car — that they don’t have cash on hand to pay for. I strongly advise saving for your larger consumer purchases to avoid paying for them over time with high-interest consumer credit. Don’t take out credit card or auto loans — otherwise known as consumer credit — to make large purchases. (Don’t be duped by a seemingly low interest rate on, for example, a car loan. You could get the car at a lower price if you don’t opt for such a loan.)
In your early years of saving and investing, deciding whether to save money to buy a home or to put money into a retirement account presents a dilemma. In the long run, owning your own home is usually a wise financial move. On the other hand, saving sooner for retirement makes achieving your goals easier and reduces your income tax bill.
Presuming that both goals are important to you, you can save toward both goals: buying a home and retiring. If you’re eager to own a home, you can throw all your savings toward achieving that goal and temporarily put your retirement savings on hold.
When saving money for starting or buying a business, most people encounter the same dilemma they face when deciding to save to buy a house: If you fund your retirement accounts to the exclusion of earmarking money for your small-business dreams, your entrepreneurial aspirations may never become reality. Generally, I advocate hedging your bets by saving money in your tax-sheltered retirement accounts as well as toward your business venture. An investment in your own small business can produce great rewards, so you may feel comfortable focusing your savings on your own business.
Do you have little ones or plan to have them in your future? You probably know that rearing a child (or two) costs really big bucks. But the biggest expense awaits when they reach young adulthood and want to go to college, so your instincts may be to try to save money to accomplish and afford that goal.
This concept may sound selfish, but the reality is that you need to take care of your future first. Take advantage of saving through your tax-sheltered retirement accounts before you set aside money in custodial savings accounts for your kids.
So where should you invest money earmarked for a shorter-term goal? A money market account or short-term bond fund is a good place to store your short-term savings. See Chapters 7 and 9 for more information on these options. The best bank or credit union accounts (covered in Chapter 6) may be worth considering as well.
During your younger adult years, you may not be thinking much about retirement, because it seems to be well off in the distance. But if you’d like to scale back on your work schedule someday, partly or completely, you’re best off saving toward that goal as soon as you start drawing a regular paycheck.
In this section, I explain the benefits and possible concerns of investing through so-called retirement accounts. I also lay out the retirement account options you may access.
Where possible, try to save and invest in accounts that offer you a tax advantage, which is precisely what retirement accounts offer you. These accounts — known by such enlightening acronyms and names as 401(k), 403(b), SEP-IRA, and so on — offer tax breaks to people of all economic means. Consider the following advantages to investing in retirement accounts:
Contributions often provide up-front tax breaks. By investing through a retirement account, you not only plan wisely for your future but also get an immediate financial reward: lower taxes, which mean more money available for saving and investing. Retirement account contributions generally aren’t taxed at either the federal or state income tax level until withdrawal (but they’re still subject to Social Security and Medicare taxes when earned). If you’re paying, say, 30 percent between federal and state taxes (see Chapter 4 to determine your tax bracket), a $4,000 contribution to a retirement account lowers your income taxes by $1,200.
Modest income earners also may get an additional government tax credit known as the Retirement Savings Contributions Credit. A maximum credit of 50 percent applies to the first $2,000 contributed for single taxpayers with an adjusted gross income (AGI) of no more than $18,500 and married couples filing jointly with an AGI of $37,000 or less. Singles with an AGI of between $18,500 and $20,000 and married couples with an AGI between $37,000 and $40,000 are eligible for a 20 percent tax credit. Single taxpayers with an AGI of more than $20,000 but no more than $31,000, as well as married couples with an AGI between $40,000 and $62,000, can get a 10 percent tax credit.
There are legitimate concerns about putting money into a retirement account. First and foremost is the fact that once you place such money inside a retirement account, you can’t generally access it before age 59½ without paying current income taxes and a penalty — 10 percent of the withdrawn amount in federal tax, plus whatever your state charges.
This poses a problem on several levels. First, money placed inside retirement accounts is typically not available for other uses, such as buying a car or starting a small business. Second, if an emergency arises and you need to tap the money, you’ll get socked with paying current income taxes and penalties on amounts withdrawn.
But what about simply wanting to save money for nearer-term goals and to be able to tap that money? If you’re saving and investing money for a down payment on a home or to start a business, for example, you’ll probably need to save that money outside a retirement account to avoid those early-withdrawal penalties.
If you’re like most young adults and have limited financial resources, you need to prioritize your goals. Before funding retirement accounts and gaining those tax breaks, be sure to contemplate and prioritize your other goals (see the section “Setting and Prioritizing Your Shorter-Term Goals” earlier in this chapter).
The sooner you start to save, the less painful it is each year to save enough to reach your goals, because your contributions have more years to compound. Each decade you delay saving approximately doubles the percentage of your earnings that you need to save to meet your goals. If saving 5 percent per year in your early 20s gets you to your retirement goal, waiting until your 30s to start may mean socking away approximately 10 percent to reach that same goal; waiting until your 40s means saving 20 percent. Start saving now!
If you earn employment income (or receive alimony), you have options for putting money away in a retirement account that compounds without taxation until you withdraw the money. In most cases, your contributions to these retirement accounts are tax-deductible. This section reviews your options.
Larger for-profit companies generally offer their employees a 401(k) plan, which typically allows saving up to $18,000 per year (for tax year 2017). Many nonprofit organizations offer their employees similar plans, known as 403(b) plans. Contributions to both traditional 401(k) and 403(b) plans are deductible on both your federal and state taxes in the year that you make them. Employees of nonprofit organizations can generally contribute up to 20 percent or $18,000 of their salaries, whichever is less.
There’s a benefit in addition to the up-front and ongoing tax benefits of these retirement savings plans: Some employers match your contributions. (If you’re an employee in a small business, you can establish your own SEP-IRA.) Of course, the challenge for many people is to reduce their spending enough to be able to sock away these kinds of contributions.
Some employers are offering a Roth 401(k) account, which, like a Roth IRA (discussed in the next section), offers employees the ability to contribute on an after-tax basis. Withdrawals from such accounts generally aren’t taxed in retirement.
If you’re self-employed, you can establish your own retirement savings plans for yourself and any employees you have. Simplified Employee Pension-Individual Retirement Accounts (SEP-IRA) allow you to put away up to 20 percent of your self-employment income up to an annual maximum of $54,000 (for tax year 2017).
If you work for a company that doesn’t offer a retirement savings plan, or if you’ve exhausted contributions to your company’s plan, consider an Individual Retirement Account (IRA). Anyone who earns employment income or receives alimony may contribute up to $5,500 annually to an IRA (or the amount of your employment income or alimony income, if it’s less than $5,500 in a year). A nonworking spouse may contribute up to $5,500 annually to a spousal IRA.
Your contributions to an IRA may or may not be tax-deductible. For tax year 2017, if you’re single and your adjusted gross income is $62,000 or less for the year, you can deduct your full IRA contribution. If you’re married and you file your taxes jointly, you’re entitled to a full IRA deduction if your AGI is $99,000 per year or less.
What if you have so much cash sitting around that after maxing out your contributions to retirement accounts, including your IRA, you still want to sock more away into a tax-advantaged account? Enter the annuity. Annuities are contracts that insurance companies back. If you, the investor (annuity holder), should die during the so-called accumulation phase (that is, before receiving payments from the annuity), your designated beneficiary is guaranteed reimbursement of the amount of your original investment.
Annuities, like IRAs, allow your capital to grow and compound tax-deferred. You defer taxes until you withdraw the money. Unlike an IRA, which has an annual contribution limit of a few thousand dollars, an annuity allows you to deposit as much as you want in any year — even millions of dollars, if you’ve got millions! As with a Roth IRA, however, you get no up-front tax deduction for your contributions.
When you establish a retirement account, you may not realize that the retirement account is simply a shell or shield that keeps the federal, state, and local governments from taxing your investment earnings each year. You still must choose what investments you want to hold inside your retirement account shell.
You may invest the money in your IRA or self-employed plan retirement account (SEP-IRAs and so on) in stocks, bonds, mutual funds, and even bank accounts. Mutual funds (offered in most employer-based plans) and exchange-traded funds (ETFs) are ideal choices because they offer diversification and professional management. See Chapter 10 for more on mutual funds and ETFs.
With money that you’re investing for shorter-term goals, you have a more limited menu of investments to choose among. For your emergency/rainy-day fund, for example, you should consider only a money market fund or bank/credit union savings account. Down-payment money for a home purchase that you expect to make in a few years should be kept in short-term bonds.
When you’re younger and have more years until you plan to use your money, you should keep larger amounts of your long-term investment money in growth (ownership) investments, such as stocks, real estate, and small business. The attraction of these types of investments is their potential to really grow your money, but the risk is that the value of such investments can fall significantly.
The younger you are, the more time your investments have to recover from a bad fall. A long-held guiding principle says to subtract your age from 110 and invest the resulting number as a percentage of money to place in growth (ownership) investments. So if you’re 30 years old,
Should you want to be more conservative, subtract your age from 100:
Want to be even more aggressive? Subtract your age from 120:
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