Chapter 7
IN THIS CHAPTER
Discovering homes for sale
Considering foreclosures
Looking at overall style and resale value
Reviewing your priorities
Understanding exactly what you’re getting in a new home
Comparing the homes you see and picking a winner
When you start looking for a home, you have to replace the visions in your mind with the one you can realistically afford to buy. (Unless, of course, you’ve won the lottery or just inherited a fortune, in which case buy exactly what you like.) But how do you find the right home to fit your budget and your basic needs? You can choose to sit back and leave the legwork to your agent, but most people want to be more involved in the process. In this chapter, we give you home-hunting tips and suggest ways for you to evaluate the advertised listings and homes you tour so that you can zero in on the best possible property faster.
When looking for your dream home, you need to make a list that describes all the key features you want. The list will clearly outline the features you need to have and those that would be nice to have but aren’t deal-breakers. These features will include not what’s inside the house has to offer, but what’s in the immediate neighbourhood and where it is in relation to everything else.
A list is an important exercise that can help you narrow down the most important features you want your home to have. It sharpens your vision and also keeps you on track when having to make compromises (and believe us, everyone makes compromises). You want to make sure your basic needs are met while being aware of where you can be flexible. Here are some of the things you’ll need to consider:
Use Table 7-1 to organize the features you need or want in a new home. Complete the chart by considering what is absolutely essential to your needs, and what you’d really like to have (but that you could live without). For some items in the chart, like a dishwasher or a fireplace, it’s a simple yes/no proposition. A fireplace may be “nice to have,” but is it really “essential”? You decide.
TABLE 7-1 Home Priority List
Feature |
Essential Need |
Nice to Have |
Feature |
Essential Need |
Nice to Have |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Type of Home |
Location | ||||
Detached, semi-detached, or so forth |
Flooring | ||||
Victorian, modern, or so on |
Hallways | ||||
Number of storeys |
Width (m or ft.) | ||||
Interior |
Linen closet | ||||
Size (m2 or ft2) |
Coat closet near main entrance | ||||
Number of rooms |
Flooring | ||||
Living Room |
Basement | ||||
Size (m2 or ft2) |
Size (m2 or ft2) | ||||
Open concept/separate dining room |
Finished/Partially finished | ||||
Fireplace |
Basement/in-law apartment | ||||
Flooring |
Washer/dryer | ||||
Ceiling height |
Freezer | ||||
Kitchen |
Heating (oil, gas, etc.) | ||||
Size (m2 or ft2) |
Flooring | ||||
Condition |
Other | ||||
Eat-in area |
Central air conditioning | ||||
Fridge (age, stainless steel, capacity) |
Central vacuum | ||||
Stove (electric or gas, convection) |
Finished attic | ||||
Dishwasher (age, capacity) |
Property will accommodate expansion | ||||
Kitchen cupboards (age, size, style, accessibility) |
Water view | ||||
Countertops (material, age) |
New windows | ||||
Flooring |
Sliding glass doors | ||||
Bedrooms |
Natural light | ||||
Number |
Exterior | ||||
Walkout to balcony |
Frontage (size and direction facing) | ||||
Closet in each room |
Brick/siding/wood/stucco | ||||
Flooring |
Roofing material (slate, cedar shake, asphalt shingles; age) | ||||
Master Bedroom |
Parking | ||||
Size (m2 or ft2) |
Garage | ||||
En-suite bathroom |
Carport | ||||
Walk-in closet, south-facing window, fireplace, or other special feature |
Space | ||||
Flooring |
Private/shared driveway | ||||
Bathrooms |
Street parking | ||||
Number of bathrooms |
Yard | ||||
Size (m2 or ft2) |
Size of lot (m2 or ft2) | ||||
Location(s) |
Shed | ||||
Shower/tub/whirlpool tub |
Deck/patio/porches | ||||
Flooring |
Fenced enclosure | ||||
Sunroom/Den/Home Office |
Swimming pool | ||||
Size (m2 or ft2) |
Established landscaping | ||||
Location |
Landscaping/garden space | ||||
Flooring |
Sunlight | ||||
Family Room | |||||
Size (m2 or ft2) |
When identifying your home needs, focus on both the home’s interior and exterior elements. However, the neighbourhood where your home is located is also a consideration. You may be able to renovate a bathroom in your house, but you can’t just move the bus stop in front of your white picket fence or force the fire department to move several blocks away. Your location can affect the way your home value appreciates or depreciates — the old saying, “Location, location, location,” isn’t an exaggeration.
Consider the specific location of your desired home, as well as the general area. Living three streets away from train tracks may be fine for you, but being across the street from them is absolutely unthinkable. Or maybe you like a certain neighbourhood, but don’t want to live on the busy main drag.
What about local amenities — is it important to be close to shops, parks, or community hubs like a school, library, or place of worship? If you drive everywhere, then perhaps you don’t need amenities close by. On the other hand, if you don’t have a car, having some of these places within walking distance may be important. Access to public transportation is also a consideration.
A neighbourhood isn’t only a particular location; it’s a type of environment. Look at the characteristics of the areas you like best. Do you like a dense community with people and activity? Or does a secluded location appeal to you? Do you like to see Christmas decorations up in the middle of November, or would you rather not see any at all? Do you want plenty of trees, playgrounds, and parks? Or are sleek high-rise condominium towers near the theatre district more your style?
Think about your family’s needs. If your family is athletic, you may want to be near a community centre or a soccer field. If you have children, check out the local schools and find the boundaries (if any) for the catchment areas. A catchment area is the geographical area that outlines the boundaries of the neighbourhood that qualifies for admission to a certain school. Maps of school catchment areas are available from local school boards. If you want Junior to go to that special French immersion academy, you’d better make sure the location of the house you’re considering allows him to attend that school.
Home is where the heart is, but many people spend a lot of time outside the home: the office for you, and schools for the little ones. How far away are you willing to live from where you work? Don’t forget there’s added expenses the farther away you live (more gas, more wear and tear on your vehicle), as well as more stress (longer travel time, more traffic). Having said that, what you need and where you want to live may not always fit in the same budget. That four-bedroom detached home close to work may be two or three times more expensive than the home that’s a 45-minute train ride away.
If you’re a parent, think about transportation challenges for the kids too. Can you let the little ones walk to school, or will they need to take a bus or get a drive from you? Is there a nursery or daycare conveniently near to your commuting route?
Of course, location is all about work. Jobs and schools will change, but what brings you joy when you’re not at work is also important. You want a place you’re happy to come home to (even if it does take an hour). Consider where you want to be when you are not at work and then how far you’re willing to travel to be there.
If you get a deal on a home because of the train tracks through the backyard, chances are you’ll have to list it at a lower price when the time comes to sell. You may also have to wait longer to sell because you’ll need to find someone else who is willing to accept not just a bargain price, but the train tracks.
You may find that your community is relatively quiet during the day, but the park across the street becomes a hive of activity on evenings and weekends, potentially clogging streets and is just plain noisy. Make sure your potential neighbourhood suits your needs during the day, in the evenings, and on weekends. Find out what you can’t see just by looking. Word of mouth can also be a huge factor in your decision.
www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca/en/data-and-research
) to discover the ratio of owners to renters in the neighbourhood. A greater proportion of owners generally means a greater commitment among residents to keeping the neighbourhood clean, safe, and happy.Education facilities: Visit the local schools. Find out if most of the children in the area attend the local schools, and if not, why. Conversely, if many students attending school in the area come from other neighbourhoods, then you can be confident it’s well-respected.
The Fraser Institute publishes annual reports that rate secondary schools in British Columbia, Alberta, Ontario, New Brunswick, and Quebec. If you’re considering buying a home in these provinces, you can visit www.fraserinstitute.ca
and click the “School Rankings” tab for the latest report.
What if you find that perfect neighbourhood, but a few quick inquiries tell you that it’s out of your price range? Well, you’ll probably have to start neighbourhood hunting again, but now that you know what you’re looking for, it should be an easier process. Check out the fringes of your dream area for gems that are close to, but not smack in the middle of, your preferred community. You may be able to find a home in the path of that community’s expansion. Or, find yourself a neighbourhood that seems to be up-and-coming. Here are some things to look for when trying to find that diamond in the rough:
You can also keep an eye open for flipped homes, one of those homes that someone has purchased, renovated, and hopes to sell for a quick, healthy profit. You can usually spot a flipped home with the help of your agent: It was purchased recently and renovated by the seller, often within the space of several months. Your agent has the ability to track the home’s history in most cases, so you’ll most likely be able to determine what the seller paid for the property and the state the home was in when it was purchased. Expect to see a lot of cosmetic upgrades, like new kitchens and bathrooms, flooring, and paint. Changes to the exterior, like paint and possibly even a new roof, as well as alluring landscaping, gives the property the street appeal to pull in buyers.
Up-and-coming neighbourhoods are often key targets for home flippers because these areas will be attracting many buyers, and because homes in their original condition will be less expensive than their counterparts in more established areas. Flippers also tend to target the type of buyer who wants everything already done — and for many buyers, an essentially all redone home in a neighbourhood that’s moving up on the food chain can be an attractive option.
What’s going on outside your home is as important as what’s going on inside. Use Table 7-2 to help you form an idea of what qualities in a neighbourhood and a community matter to you, just as you did for a home using Table 7-1.
TABLE 7-2 Neighbourhood and Location Priorities List
|
Essential |
Nice |
Not Applicable |
---|---|---|---|
Close To | |||
Work | |||
Partner’s work | |||
Schools | |||
Place of worship | |||
Family | |||
Parks, playground | |||
Daycare | |||
Shopping | |||
Public transportation | |||
Major roads, highways | |||
Fire station | |||
Police | |||
Hospital | |||
Doctor/dentist | |||
Public library | |||
Cultural centres (theatre, museums) | |||
Restaurants | |||
Recreation/health centre | |||
Public swimming pool | |||
Ice rink, baseball diamond | |||
Airport | |||
Other | |||
Away From | |||
Noise | |||
Traffic, major roads | |||
Train tracks | |||
Hydro corridors | |||
Airport/flight paths | |||
Family | |||
Other | |||
General Location Features | |||
Established neighbourhood | |||
High property values | |||
Neighbourhood Watch/Neighbours concerned about neighbourhood issues | |||
Good snow removal | |||
Good garbage/ recycling pickup | |||
Quiet street | |||
Picturesque view | |||
Other |
You also need to focus your attention on what’s actually available in the market. Your agent can help you identify possible opportunities, but don’t forget to keep your eyes open, too. While your agent works the listings, you can do your part by checking online, cruise the streets of your target neighbourhood and keep your ear to the ground. You never know when you’ll hear about someone preparing to sell, or discover a gem your agent might not have noticed.
Be open to the expert guidance your real estate agent has to offer (refer to Chapter 2 for advice on finding an agent). Agents spend hours scouring listings and often bring years of real estate experience to the table. A good agent who’s in touch with the market may even know about purchase opportunities before they’re officially put on the market.
Give your agent as much information as you can about what you’re looking for, but be open to her advice about the kinds of homes that might fit your budget or neighbourhoods that might have what you want. Be sure not to limit your search too much; you want your agent to cast a wide net at first so you can see what’s available, and then you can narrow down the choices to what’s realistic. For example, if your budget is $300,000, see what’s available for that amount in your region; you may discover that you should be looking in a specific area or for a specific kind of home (say, a two-bedroom home rather than one with five bedrooms, home theatre, and heated pool).
Many real estate agents have access to a home tracker tool, where the agent enters in the vital statistics of your dream home (including price range) and you’re sent notifications when a home goes on the market fitting that description. In many cases your agent can target specific streets and even blocks. You can narrow down the style of home you’re looking for and set minimum values for the number of bedrooms, bathrooms, and interior dimensions — you name it. These alerts will keep you on top of any new listings that meet your criteria and can save you hours of scrolling through listings or visiting random properties.
If you want to live only on one particular block or in one specific building, your agent will be able to send a letter to people living there to see if they’re considering moving. This is another way to find a property before it hits the market.
Going online is a vital tool for home buyers looking to do their own groundwork. One of the best tools, and one that will let you match wits with your agent, is the Multiple Listing Service (MLS) site with listings from agents at real estate boards across Canada (www.realtor.ca
). A typical MLS listing gives you a great deal of detail about a given home, including the number and size of rooms, lot size, interior dimensions (square metres or square feet), approximate property taxes, and additional information — details such as “renovated kitchen” or “professionally landscaped.”
Professional integrity requires that agents write listings that are neutral in tone and in no way prejudicial. However, keep your eyes open for clues in the description such as “reduced” or “motivated seller” that may tip you off to potential bargains. Terms like “with a little TLC,” “fixer-upper,” or “handyman special” signal properties that may take more work than you’re ready to put in.
Using MLS is a good way to start your search and get familiarized with various neighbourhoods and price points. You can even map the opportunities, allowing you to identify neighbourhoods where you may have more luck finding a home. For example, a friend of Peter’s realized that if she ever hoped to buy a home, she would have to accept a 45-minute commute. Although she gave up on her dream of being close to downtown, by watching the MLS she was able to narrow down her target market and find a home in an affordable neighbourhood — and finally become a homeowner.
Plenty of properties aren’t listed on the MLS, however. Homes for sale by owner have separate sites, and many brokerages and agents maintain their own database of listings. You can dig into this data by becoming familiar with what’s available. Your agent can help you discover more information about any listings you uncover.
Despite all the tools that help you search for a home without ever leaving where you live now, you can still pound the pavement. While you’re scouting a potential neighbourhood to get a feel for the area, keep your eyes open for new developments and “For Sale” signs. Agents will tell you that a home that doesn’t seem like a winner online can be a real gem in actuality. If you see something that grabs your eye at street level, do more research.
The more people who know you’re buying, the more people who will suggest properties to you. Friends may have friends in the area who are thinking of selling. Talking with people in the neighbourhood you’re considering may also turn up leads. Neighbours may know who’s outgrowing their home or who’s retiring to Florida next winter. Don’t underestimate the value of word-of-mouth networking.
Thanks to social media, you also have a chance to tell people that you’re in the market. Social media may also help you sell your existing home (we discuss marketing your home in Chapter 15). But remember to play it safe! Although you can let people know that you’re in the market, hold your cards close to your chest and keep conversations of specifics private; you don’t want to give other people a head start on your offer or make yourself a target for identity theft.
Often sellers have open houses when they first put their homes on the market, giving you a great opportunity to check them out. You can talk to the seller’s agent in person. Find out (if you can) why the sellers want to sell, and how motivated they are to sell. If you don’t like the idea of having other people looking at the home at the same time as you, remember you can always make an appointment to see the home again privately. Pay attention to what other potential buyers have to say; they may notice something about the home that you’ve missed, or have done some productive snooping where you were too shy to look. Listen to their potential plans for the home; they may give you some good ideas.
In a hot real estate market, you’ll find that many properties sell without ever hosting an open house. A home may be listed on MLS and then a few days later the selling agent holds an open house to give other agents an opportunity to view the home, but a public open house just isn’t necessary. If you’re working with an agent, you may well be able to attend that agents’ open house in her company — and get a jump on the competition.
Although we don’t go too deep into the foreclosure process from the homeowner’s point of view, suffice it to say that purchasing a foreclosed property takes a certain amount of doggedness and a special type of buyer.
Two types of home foreclosures exist, and the process of purchasing a home in foreclosure really depends on which province you live in:
Court-ordered sale: A court-ordered, or judicial, sale is conducted under the authority and supervision of the court. In this case, a lender is bound to apply to the court for an order giving permission for the property sale to proceed.
Court-ordered sales aren’t always foreclosures; some are the result of divorces (nasty or otherwise), the settlement of an estate, or some other division of assets.
In Prince Edward Island, Newfoundland and Labrador, New Brunswick and Ontario, the power of sale is the primary recovery method for the lender. On the other hand, judicial sales are the way to go in Alberta, Quebec, British Columbia, Manitoba, and Saskatchewan. In Nova Scotia, the main recovery process is known as mortgage foreclosure and sale or mortgage foreclosure, but it is regarded as a judicial sale because the court is still involved.
When you’re buying a foreclosure, either you’re buying a home directly from the lender (and its bureaucracy) or the lender has to receive court approval of the offer that you present. Either way, the purchase isn’t going to be as simple as dealing with a living, breathing homeowner. Finding out if your offer is accepted can take weeks, and if you have to set a court date, nothing’s stopping other interested parties from presenting offers that may be better than the one you submitted originally.
Be aware that the court or lender provides no warranties on the property you’re looking to purchase. The purchase is basically on an “as is, where is” basis. You can’t say to the lender that you’ll take the home if they fix the foundation crack: They’re not going to. Lenders will proceed only with clean or unconditional offers — offers without conditions or subjects (we discuss subject clauses in Chapter 9). A prospective purchaser must do all due diligence in advance and make an offer without being guaranteed of getting the property or what condition it will actually be in when the deal closes.
Although there is no single database listing home foreclosures, you can find good deals out there by being attuned to the wording used in listings (“motivated seller” is a common one). Be prepared to do lots of homework if you’re looking for foreclosures and wait.
No two properties are alike, but telling the difference between your ideal home and the one that’s almost ideal can be tough. Some people know at a glance that they’ve found “the one,” but most are prone to making mistakes. A gut feeling isn’t the best way to decide which home to buy. This section guides you through the process of drawing up a short list and honing in on the best prospects.
After you identify a few homes you like, you need to examine them closer to make sure they meet your needs and wants. Keep an eye open for the following:
The more homes you see, the greater your focus will become. You’ll know what you like and what you dislike. But we hope you don’t have to view a hundred houses! If you can, stick to the ten-house rule: Visit at least ten homes, including public open houses as well as private viewings set up through your agent, before you decide to make an offer. You may think this is extreme, but the first set of homes will probably wow you with their cosmetic charms; after ten wows, you’ll have become more critical than “I really like the colour of that bathroom.”
Keep in mind that if you’re focused on a specific neighbourhood, it may take years for ten houses to come on the market. To hone your critical skills, visit others in the surrounding area and perhaps draw up a short list of three in the area you want instead.
However, sometimes when you know, you know. You may fall in love with the first condominium you see, knowing full well that the place has everything that you need and want. If that’s the case, you may want to pounce. Think about it: If you found the perfect partner, would you keep dating others? (We’re hoping you’ll say no.) Try not to talk yourself out of a good fit. You’ll ultimately drive yourself (and your agent) crazy.
When looking at homes, it makes sense for you or your agent to book appointments one after the other. This approach is efficient, and comparing homes is easier when they’re fresh in your mind. But try to look at only three or four homes in a day, and take careful note of each home’s features. Seeing ten homes in one day will result in nothing but confusion: Was house number two the one with the great kitchen or was that number four? (Refer to the section, “Stacking Them Up — How the Homes Compare,” later in this chapter to help you compare the properties you see.) Many homes also have feature sheets that present detailed information and include a picture. Remember to pick up feature sheets wherever you can to help your recall when you’re trying to make decisions later. Your agent should be able to provide you with detailed information sheets as well (often from agent-only information sites).
Look at homes more than once; don’t feel you have to make a decision about a home as soon as you’ve seen it. Unless you’re looking in an incredibly strong seller’s market and squaring off against other buyers making aggressive offers, make more than one visit to a home you’re seriously interested in, preferably during different times of the day and of the week. And, if do feel pressure to make a decision, either from the seller or other buyers, discretion may be the better part of valour: If it’s not love at first sight, it may not be the right fit.
If you’ve looked at what seems like a million homes and you haven’t seen any you like, discuss your concerns with your agent. Possibly there has been some miscommunication somewhere, and the two of you are working at cross-purposes. Review your priority list (see Table 7-1) together, and talk about why you haven’t liked any of the homes you’ve seen so far.
The problem may be that you have too fixed an idea of what is essential and you need to be more flexible. We can’t help but say it again: The home of your dreams may not exist. What you’re looking for is a home that’s as close as you can get to your ideal, but you’re going to have to compromise. The home that may be the right fit may not make your heart race right away, but in the cold light of day it ticks a lot of boxes. Your agent will probably let you know if you’re being too picky and may redirect your attention to some homes you’ve already seen. After you’ve rethought your priorities, you may have a new appreciation for some homes’ advantages. Your agent should also keep you informed if one of the houses you found somewhat interesting has had a price reduction. Suddenly, the house that wasn’t quite right can become much more appealing given a $25,000 price reduction.
If you sense your agent doesn’t understand what you really want, now may be the time to part ways. Do try to explain to your agent why you feel a change is necessary. Sometimes an agent and a buyer are just not a good fit, and there’s no point continuing with a relationship that isn’t working. If, however, you have very, very specific criteria, be prepared to wait a long time to find your home. Agents don’t have a magic wand that’ll be able to make your dream home appear (though we’re sure they’d love one). You may have to relax your requirements a little bit, and find a patient agent who understands the importance of your specifications.
Although you definitely need a professional home inspector to tell you if all the systems in your potential home, such as heating and electricity, are in good condition (refer to Chapter 9), you may be wondering what all these different systems are about, anyway. Knowing the kinds of systems you’re buying will help determine what your future home expenses will be, as well as warn you about potentially costly problems you may not notice. Besides, what is a GFCI outlet, anyway, and why is it recommended? You should understand what the difference is between 60-amp service and 100-amp service before you get an inspector involved. This section clarifies the differences.
Although you get an estimate of what your heating costs will be from your seller’s previous bills, knowing what kind of system — electricity, gas, oil, solar — you’re getting makes sense. A poorly maintained furnace with overused filters and clogged ducts will be more expensive to run than a serviced one, regardless of its heating source.
To conserve energy, many homes now have heat pumps or mini-splits that are more efficient and allow for zoned heating and cooling. Ask whether this option is in place or can be installed. In many parts of the Canada, the cost savings can be significant at the same time as improving a home’s comfort.
This following sections discuss the various options available in terms of systems and the fuels they use.
A forced air furnace is the most common type of furnace. Fuelled by natural gas or oil to heat the air, the furnace then pushes warm air up through the house. A properly maintained forced air furnace can be very efficient and economical, but there are different levels of efficiency. Older, conventional furnaces rely on the “hot air rises naturally” idea, which can result in cold basements and warm third floors. This heating system may necessitate ceiling fans on the third floor to circulate the heated air.
Newer, high-efficiency furnaces are, as the name suggests, more efficient than older forced-air models and cheaper to run, but they can be relatively expensive to install. In the long run, you can recoup the installation expense through savings on heating bills. High-efficiency furnaces are also very compact; they take up much less space than the older-style forced-air furnaces. Many homes can be heated with a high-efficiency furnace that’s no bigger than a hot water tank. Any home that already has a high-efficiency furnace installed has at least one solid feature going for it. A forced-air furnace can last between 10 and 25 years and can cost about $2,500 to as much as $10,000 to install, depending on the level of efficiency you want and the size of the home you are heating.
Hot water heating uses radiators, baseboards, or in-floor radiant grids to heat a house or condominium. A hot water system heats very well and is controlled through thermostats that control zone valves throughout the system. In older systems, it may be impossible to control the temperature of individual rooms because one thermostat controls the whole house. Also, the valve on above-floor hot water radiators has a tendency to rust.
The hot water is heated in a boiler. A standard gas boiler for a hot water heating system may cost around $3,000 and should last between 15 to 50 years, depending on the type. The benefit of hot water heat is there’s no dust blown around by a forced-air furnace, a great benefit for people with allergies. The hot water system is quieter than forced air and provides a more consistent heat.
Using baseboard heaters means that there is no ductwork to fill your walls, and each heating unit has its own thermostat, so different rooms of the home can be kept at different temperatures. Hot water baseboards can usually be controlled by a valve on the baseboard, and electric baseboards are controlled by a thermostat dedicated to that baseboard. These heaters can get hot to the touch, so be careful where you place furnishings. This might also be a consideration for parents of young children with curious fingers.
Several kinds of energy are available to power your heating system. Here are the choices a home may have.
Rising energy costs in some parts of Canada have made electric heating a very expensive option. However, it may be cheaper than oil or gas in many other areas and remains the default heating choice in many homes.
Heating your home with electricity can be done two ways: through baseboards or using a forced-air furnace or hot water boiler. Although some people complain that electric systems don’t heat as well as forced-air systems or radiant heat, electric heat tends to be more efficient, thanks in part to the ability to target it to specific rooms or zones.
If your property (a new condominium, for example) was designed for electric heat and it’s well insulated, you may find electric heating to be economical and efficient. However, if you’re converting a drafty old house to electric heat, your heating bills will be sky-high. Be wary when buying any property where electric heat has been installed if the structure wasn’t designed with this kind of system in mind. On the plus side, many organizations, including power companies and the government, offer incentives to improve the energy efficiency of your home.
Oil furnaces were commonplace before the 1970s, but have declined in popularity because they’re more expensive than natural gas and require an oil tank that sits in your backyard or takes up room in your already overcrowded basement. Complaints about oil heating include having stinky oil odours in your home if the system isn’t working properly and dirty walls near the tank. Despite the move toward natural gas forced-air heating systems, many homes still have oil-fired forced-air systems, which suggests that they’re remarkably reliable.
Supporters of oil heating argue that modern oil furnaces can be the best and cheapest way to heat your home, especially if natural gas lines aren’t available in your area. With proper maintenance (you should have it serviced every year), an oil furnace can be quite efficient, though oil has to be delivered by truck to your home. Oil can be used to fire a forced air or hot water heating system. An oil-fired furnace can be replaced with a natural gas furnace if gas lines are available in your neighbourhood. Converting from oil to gas may require relining your chimney and installing a better ventilation system.
In many parts of the country, incentive plans exist to convert from oil-fired heating to a more economical natural-gas-fired furnace.
Natural gas is generally more economical than other types of fuel. The catch: You can have it installed only where there are pipelines. The beautiful thing about natural gas is that other appliances that require heat can be bought to run on natural gas, and they tend to be cheaper to run. Many people swear by gas stoves; others love the economical benefits of gas dryers or the option of having a direct line to a barbecue or patio heater.
In very rare cases, homes with natural gas heating may have a problem with carbon monoxide, but with proper maintenance (you should have your furnace serviced every year) and carbon monoxide detectors in your home (required by law in some provinces), this shouldn’t be an issue. Natural gas can fire a forced air furnace or a hot water heating system.
Natural gas also tends to be a stable source of energy. A pipeline explosion in British Columbia in early 2019 disrupted supplies in that province, but such occurrences are rare — far less common, at any rate, than power outages, which can disrupt heating that runs on electricity.
Propane isn’t just for barbecues any more. Many homeowners consider propane to be the most convenient and versatile fuel for home heating, and the benefits of using propane are numerous, including the following:
Heat pumps work like air conditioners, but as the name suggests, they provide heat as well as cool air. Like a refrigerator, a heat pump compresses and decompresses gases to create or use heat through electricity. Because a heat pump can use more energy than it will produce if the outside temperature is less than 10 degrees Celsius, it works best in conjunction with a central furnace. Heat pumps have various degrees of efficiency, so check what the rating of the one in the home you’re considering is. If you’re scouting options to install in the future, be aware that they often require larger ductwork.
Heat pumps have traditionally been very expensive to install, sometimes running three times the price of a gas or oil furnace. Recent years have seen the advent of new ductless units that can be mounted on ceilings or outside walls. These so-called mini-split units may also be pricey, but they’re highly efficient and have a faster payback window. They’re also expensive to maintain and benefit from regular service. However, with a heat pump in your home, you don’t have to worry about installing a separate cooling system. For more information, contact an independent air conditioning expert.
A number of renewable heat sources are available, depending on the region. Solar power is among the best known, and a small array can largely or even entirely offset the standard energy needs of a small house.
Many high-rise apartment complexes rely on geothermal heat. Although these systems are often expensive for single-family homes, they’re ideal for larger complexes where the costs — and benefits are shared among a large number of owners.
Some mixed-use complexes with retail or office space on the lower levels will capture and recycle energy in a way that benefits the residential portion. For example, cooling operations may remove energy from the commercial portion during the day. It can be captured and released to warm the residential portion at night, maintaining a constant and comfortable temperature at a significantly lower cost to occupants.
From lighting to cooking, electricity runs most of the important household services you use on a daily basis. You need a reliable and safe electrical system in your home. Be aware of service amps and GFCI — they’re two important aspects of a home’s electrical system. Don’t forget to make sure that the actual wiring is up to snuff, too — it only takes a spark to get a fire going.
Electricity comes in three common sizes: 60 amp, 100 amp, and 200 amp. Sixty-amp service is an older electrical standard, usually found in homes built before 1970. While there isn’t anything inherently wrong with 60-amp service for a smaller home, 60-amp service poses two big problems: First, you may be hard-pressed to find an insurer willing to cover the property, and second, if you ever had dreams of central air conditioning, a dishwasher, or an electric hot water heater, forget them.
Sixty-amp service can’t usually handle the demands of anything beyond small appliances, and pushing those limits can increase the risk of fire (which explains our first point). Remember, too, that 60-amp homes were often wired before the advent of the power-hungry electric dryer and microwave. Think twice before buying a home with 60-amp service, because sooner or later you’ll likely have to upgrade to a minimum 100-amp service. If you want to proceed, be aware that it can cost $750 to $1,500 to bring a house up to 100-amp service, and adjust your offer accordingly.
If your home or condominium was built in the 1970s, it may have aluminum wiring that isn’t reliable. With aluminum wires, electricity actually flows away from the screws used to hold the wiring in place at the back of an electrical outlet. Air pockets form between the wires and the screws, letting electricity arc between them, ultimately burning the wire away and deadening the outlet. This obviously poses a significant fire hazard, and such wiring should be replaced.
GFCI stands for ground fault circuit interrupter. You’ve probably seen them in a hotel bathroom: You know, the outlet with the little red button and the little black button. GFCI is designed for places where water (a very good conductor of electricity) may cause an electric shock and possibly seriously injure a person. GFCI receptacles should be placed in all wet environments, including kitchens, bathrooms, wet bars, laundry rooms, and outdoors. Inexpensive safety measures, GFCI outlets should be installed if the home you buy doesn’t already have them.
No, we’re not talking about Martians; insulation is the alien creature in question. UFFI, or urea formaldehyde foam insulation, was a popular insulation in the mid-1970s. Unfortunately, when the UFFI foam ingredients weren’t mixed properly, the resulting insulation released quantities of formaldehyde gas in homes, causing breathing problems and other adverse health effects for some people. UFFI was banned in Canada in 1980. However, UFFI may still be in some homes today. The government gave out three times more grants for manufacturing UFFI insulation than the number of rebates that have been applied for to replace it.
If the UFFI in a home was installed properly, it shouldn’t break down or pose a risk to you. The Canada Mortgage and Housing Corp. (CMHC) will now insure UFFI-equipped homes. As a safeguard, you may still want to include a clause in your offer to purchase contract, stating that the seller warrants that the home isn’t insulated with UFFI (in some provinces the clause is preprinted in the paperwork). Most sellers will be able to disclose that, to the best of their knowledge, they are or aren’t aware of any UFFI in their home.
The amazing insulating and fire-resistant properties of asbestos made it a popular material for home builders through the mid-20th century. Demand boomed, and a town in Quebec even named itself after the mineral. But a connection with mesothelioma, a deadly cancer of the lungs and abdomen, eventually saw it outlawed.
A lingering source of asbestos in buildings today is zonolite (also known as vermiculite), a grey popcorn-like insulation material that was blown into the attics and walls of homes for years. The insulation was made from asbestos-contaminated vermiculite ore mined from the 1920s until 1990. Although the mine that was the likely source was closed in 1990, the insulation remains in thousands of homes across Canada.
Owners of older homes may encounter asbestos panels or insulation during renovations. Special precautions are needed to prevent exposure to the material’s lethal fibres during removal and disposal. Health Canada says that the best way to prevent asbestos exposure is to leave the insulation undisturbed, but if it’s a concern, it can cost thousands of dollars to have the asbestos-contaminated insulation removed.
Many rural areas aren’t connected to the local municipality’s waste management system. Even some urban properties rely on private septic systems to dispose of wastewater. Rather than flowing through a city sewer system to a treatment site, wastewater from these properties flows into a septic tank with a leaching bed (also known as weeping tiles or a tile bed) that treats the water before it goes back into the soil. The average septic tank requires a space of about 1 square metre (10 square feet). Your septic tank should be at least 1½ metres (5 feet) from your home and 16½ metres (55 feet) from sources of water. The leaching bed should be 30½ metres (100 feet) from sources of water. Sludge collected in the tank should be pumped out every four years. According to the Canada Mortgage and Housing Corp., minimum tank volumes range from 1,800 litres to 3,600 litres, depending on the province or territory.
Unfortunately, Canada doesn’t have a uniform standard for septic systems. At best, provincial regulations govern them. The result is no one standard that manufacturers need to meet. You can get a certificate for the septic system from the home’s municipality, but it verifies only the location of the tank and the leaching bed, not its condition.
Don’t assume that every rural home has a septic system; ask the seller exactly what kind of waste system is in place. The house can possibly have a holding tank instead. Unlike a septic system, which processes sewage on-site and needs pumping every few years, a holding tank must be pumped every few months. If the home has a holding tank, speak with the seller about the cost of maintaining it.
If you buy a home with a septic system, you should get a plan (either from the owner or the municipality) that shows where the septic tank and leaching bed are located in relation to the house and water sources. Ask about the tank’s capacity and when the tank was pumped out last. To ensure the tank was indeed emptied when the seller claims, ask for a receipt of the cleaning, which will confirm the date.
Don’t expect a home with a septic system to switch over to a sewer system in the near future, unless there are firm plans for the municipality to do so. Sewer systems are expensive to install, and the local government will usually decide it’s not worthwhile. A septic system, however, should last about 30 years, depending on maintenance.
Similar to septic systems, a private source of water is used in a home where there are no municipal water lines to supply the residence. The minimum water storage tank you should consider is 40 litres. The main problems with well water are that it can become contaminated and therefore undrinkable. If the well goes dry, you may have to do some serious digging.
If you buy a home that draws water from a well, ensure that you get a certificate from the seller that guarantees the water to be drinkable. You can determine the quantity of water available as well — you should be able to get a certificate outlining the quantity of available water and the possible lifespan of the well. Water is generally tested for bacteria, hardness, and other harmful chemicals. For instance, you may find that there is arsenic in the water. In small amounts this isn’t an issue, but if it’s above acceptable limits you may need to install an expensive filtration system. The well water should be tested annually.
If water becomes contaminated, the municipality sometimes has no choice but to extend a water line up to the area. Your property taxes may increase if water services are extended to your property, however.
To help you organize your thoughts as you look at various homes, use Table 7-3 to record information about the homes you see. Make a copy of the table, and take it with you when you go to an open house or on a private home tour. Recording all the details makes keeping track of the potential benefits or drawbacks you observe about each home easier.
TABLE 7-3 Home Comparisons
|
Home 1 |
Home 2 |
Home 3 |
Home 4 |
---|---|---|---|---|
General Info | ||||
Address | ||||
Type/style of home | ||||
Dimensions (m2 or ft2) | ||||
Age of home | ||||
Size of lot (m2 or ft2) | ||||
Facilities (applicable to condominiums) | ||||
Asking price | ||||
Property taxes | ||||
Fees (applicable to condominiums) | ||||
Financial reserve fund (applicable to condominiums) | ||||
Overall condition | ||||
Exterior | ||||
Frontage | ||||
Siding | ||||
Condition | ||||
Eaves | ||||
Roof | ||||
Material | ||||
Age | ||||
Parking | ||||
Driveway | ||||
Garage | ||||
Number of parking spots (applicable to condominiums) | ||||
Yard | ||||
Condition | ||||
Size | ||||
Landscaping | ||||
Porch | ||||
Deck/patio | ||||
Shed | ||||
Fencing | ||||
Swimming pool | ||||
Special features | ||||
Utilities | ||||
Heating | ||||
Type | ||||
Average annual cost | ||||
Electrical service | ||||
Amps | ||||
Type/age of wiring | ||||
Water | ||||
Municipal/well | ||||
Hot water tank | ||||
Utilities | ||||
Sewers/septic | ||||
Central air conditioning | ||||
Living Room | ||||
Size | ||||
Condition | ||||
Flooring | ||||
Windows | ||||
Dining Room | ||||
Size | ||||
Condition | ||||
Flooring | ||||
Windows | ||||
Kitchen | ||||
Size | ||||
Condition | ||||
Eat-in area | ||||
Flooring | ||||
Windows | ||||
Appliances | ||||
Stove/oven (electric/gas) | ||||
Fridge | ||||
Freezer | ||||
Washer | ||||
Dryer | ||||
Dishwasher | ||||
Freezer | ||||
Microwave | ||||
Attic | ||||
Condition | ||||
Insulated | ||||
Bathrooms | ||||
Number of bathrooms | ||||
Size | ||||
Ground-floor bathroom | ||||
Basement | ||||
Finished | ||||
Size | ||||
Flooring | ||||
Windows | ||||
Separate entrance | ||||
Bedrooms | ||||
Number of bedrooms | ||||
Main bedroom | ||||
Size | ||||
Condition | ||||
Flooring | ||||
Bedrooms | ||||
Closet | ||||
En-suite bathroom | ||||
Other features | ||||
Bedroom 2 | ||||
Size | ||||
Condition | ||||
Closet | ||||
Bedroom 3 | ||||
Size | ||||
Condition | ||||
Closet | ||||
Family Room | ||||
Size | ||||
Condition | ||||
Sun Room/Office/Den | ||||
Size | ||||
Condition | ||||
Other Features | ||||
Central vacuum | ||||
Light fixtures | ||||
Fireplace | ||||
Coat closet | ||||
Linen closet | ||||
Security system | ||||
Soundproofing (applicable to condominiums or townhouses) | ||||
Balcony | ||||
High ceilings | ||||
Kitchen pantry | ||||
Jacuzzi/hot tub | ||||
Sliding glass doors | ||||
Neighbourhood | ||||
Overall | ||||
Police/fire station nearby | ||||
Public transportation available | ||||
Parks | ||||
Schools | ||||
Shopping | ||||
Distance from workplace | ||||
Traffic | ||||
Nuisances | ||||
Other comments |
18.224.62.105