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Península de zapata

! E2 Matanzas 4 From Boca de Guamá to Guamá n Cubanacán, Jagüey Grande, (45) 913 224; National Park office, (45) 987 249

As well as being the site of the infamous Bay of Pigs invasion, the Península de Zapata is synonymous with unspoiled nature and luxuriant tropical vegetation. It is a place where visitors can lie in a hammock in the shade of palm trees, observe birds with multicoloured plumage or row a boat on the Laguna del Tesoro.

Experience Central Cuba – West

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t Huts made from royal palm in Guamá on the Península de Zapata

Experience Central Cuba – West

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n Double-tap image to read the labels

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Refugio de Fauna Bermejas

The top bird-watching site on the Zapata peninsula, the Refugio de Fauna Bermejas adjoins the eastern extent of the Parque Nacional Cienaga de Zapata. While walking on this trail, visitors are virtually guaranteed to spot endemic bird species, including the patriotically coloured Cuban trogon. If you’re lucky, you might also see the green flash of Cuban parrots flying overhead.

Book a tour with a specialist guide (Armando Herrera; (45) 987 249).

Did You Know?

The peninsula is named after the landowner who was given the land by the Spanish in 1636.

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Guamá

This unusual holiday village in the Laguna del Tesoro (Treasure Lake), measuring 16 sq km (6 sq miles), is named after Guamá, a Taíno warrior who resisted the Spanish conquistadors. Guamá was killed in 1533.

The village consists of 18 huts standing on stilts on several small islands in the lagoon. The only way to reach the village is by boat along the luxuriantly fringed canal from Boca de Guamá. Guamá is home to the Horizontes Villa Guamá, an unusual hotel that also includes a restaurant, a bar and a small museum. The Muestras Aborígenes displays finds from the Laguna del Tesoro area, dating back to the Taíno civilization.

Also of interest is the reconstructed Taíno village of Aldea Taína, which occupies another island. It comprises four earth bohíos (typical Indian huts), a caney (a larger round building) and 25 life-size statues of natives by the well-known Cuban sculptress Rita Longa. The figures form the Batey Aborigen, or native Indian square, and represent the few people who lived in the village: a young girl named Dayamí; a crocodile hunter, Abey; Cajimo, hunter of jutías (a type of rodent); Manguanay, the mother who is preparing casabe (cassava) for her family; Yaima, a little girl who is playing; and the key figure, Guamá, the heroic Taíno warrior.

Experience Central Cuba – West

Top5Things-icon

fauna of zapata swamp

Cuban Crocodile

This species has been protected since the 1960s.

Manatees

The Caribbean species is over 4 m (13 ft) long and weighs about 600 kg (1,320 lbs).

Cuban Pygmy Owl

A small nocturnal raptor bird.

Grey Heron

Lives in the mangrove swamps and feeds on small fish and amphibia.

Zunzuncito

This bee hummingbird is multicoloured when male and black-green if female.

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Playa Larga

At the end of the Bay of Pigs is one of the better beaches along this part of Caribbean coastline, where thick vegetation usually grows down as far as the shore. The coral reef found here offers magnificent dive sites and the beach’s resorts offer diving, fishing and bird-watching excursions.

Near the car park, a small monument commemorates the landing of the anti-Castro troops in 1961, while along the road to Playa Girón there are numerous memorials to the Cuban defenders who died in the famous three-day battle.

Northeast of Playa Larga is an ornithological reserve.

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Hidden Gem

Casa de Zunzuncitos

The zunzuncito is endemic to only a few regions of Cuba, but you’re sure to see the world’s smallest bird in this fragrant garden in Palpite, 5 km (3 miles)inland of Playa Larga. The owner only asks for tips from visitors.

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Parque Nacional Ciénaga de Zapata

2 km (1.3 miles) W of Playa Larga

The Zapata Swamp National Park is Cuba’s largest protected area and comprises the biggest wetlands in the Caribbean. The park’s distinct ecosystems include mangrove forest, swamp forest and marsh grassland. The access gate is 2 km (1.3 miles) west of Playa Larga, and a guide is compulsory.

Experience Central Cuba – West

Stay

Horizontes Villa Guamá

A re-creation of an indigenous village, this state-run hotel is made up of thatched cabins on stilts. It occupies several islands in the Laguna del Tesoro.

Boca de Guamá cubanacan.cu/en

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Hostal Enrique

A superb casa particular, with nine rooms, Hotel Enrique is a stone’s throw from the beach. Filling meals are served on the breeze- swept rooftop.

Playa Larga § (52) 686 785

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Hostal Luis

A delightful five-bedroom casa particular located a five-minute walk from the beach.

Playa Girón § (45) 984 258

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Playa Girón

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t Swimming at Playa Girón

This beach was named in the 1600s after a French pirate, Gilberto Girón, who found refuge here. It became famous three centuries later, when it was the site of the ill-fated, American-backed landing in 1961. A large sign at the entrance to Playa Girón reads: “Here North American imperialism suffered its first major defeat.”

Situated on the eastern side of the Bay of Pigs, this is the last sandy beach in the area, ideal for fishing and diving and also equipped with good tourist facilities.

A must is a visit to the small Museo Girón, which covers the anti-Castro invasion using photos, documents, weapons, a tank and the wreckage of aeroplanes that took part in the last battle, as well as films taken during the invasion.

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t A large sign at the entrance to Playa Girón pays remembrance to Castor's forces in the Bay of Pigs invasion

Museo Girón

" ' Playa Girón, Península de Zapata § (45) 984 122 # 9am–5pm daily

Experience Central Cuba – West

the bay of pigs invasion

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The long, narrow Bay of Pigs (Bahía de Cochinos) became known throughout the world in 1961. On 14 April of that year, at the height of the Cold War, a group of 1,400 Cuban exiles, trained by the CIA with the approval of President John F Kennedy, left Nicaragua for Cuba on six ships. The next day, six US B-26 aeroplanes attacked the island’s three military air bases, their bombs killing seven people and wounding 53.

On 16 April the group of counter- revolutionaries landed on the main beaches along the bay, Playa Larga and Playa Girón. They were confronted by the Cuban armed forces (right), headed by Fidel Castro himself, who were well prepared for the battle and had the support of the local population. The fighting lasted just three days and ended in the rapid defeat of the invaders. In order to avoid an international crisis, which could have escalated into an extremely serious situation, given the USSR’s support of Cuba, the US suddenly withdrew its aerial support. The invading forces were later allowed to return to the US in exchange for supplies.

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