experience more

4

Bärenplatz

This elongated esplanade looks more like a wide street than a square. Seamlessly continued by another square, Waisenhausplatz, on its north side, only a fountain marks the division between the two.

Bärenplatz (Bear Square) is named after the bear pits that were once located here; the pits now display sculptures of bears. The Waisenhausplatz (Orphanage Square), now a police headquarters, owes its name to the former orphanage that was once housed in this fine Baroque building.

On the east side of both squares stand the Dutch Tower and the Käfigturm (Prison Tower). The Käfigturm has a slender lantern tower topped by a spire. It was incorporated into a wall that was built to the west as Bern expanded, and was the town gate from 1250 until 1350. From 1643 to 1897 the tower was used as a prison, and since 1999 it has been a venue for political seminars, forums and exhibitions.

On its southern side the square adjoins Bundesplatz, which is lined with cafés; a fruit and flower market is held here on Tuesday and Saturday.

Käfigturm

Marktgasse 67 § 031 322 75 00 # 8am–6pm Mon–Fri, 10am–4pm Sat

Did You Know?

There were bears living in Bern’s bear pits until 2009.

5 '

Bundeshaus

B4 Bundesplatz 3 parlament.ch

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t The Neo-Renaissance façade of the stately Bundeshaus

The imposing seat of the Federal Assembly, the Bundeshaus (parliament building) stands on a cliff overlooking the Aare valley. Although it faces north onto Bundesplatz, its most attractive aspect is from the south – from Monbijoubrücke, a bridge on the Aare.

The building was designed by W H Auer in a bold Neo-Renaissance style, and completed in 1902. Its central part contains a spacious domed hall, decorated with paintings illustrating important events in Swiss history. Access is by guided tour only. Free English-language tours take place on Saturdays at 2pm (book online in advance).

The Bundesterrasse, a wide promenade behind the Bundeshaus, offers a panoramic view of the Alps. A funicular near the western side of the Bundeshaus takes visitors down to the bottom of the Aare valley.

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Insider tip

Lights On Bern

Every autumn, the Bundeshaus exterior stars in the highly inventive Rendez-vous Bundesplatz, a brightly coloured sound and light show. Performances are free of charge and take place several times a day.

6

Marktgasse

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t The medieval Käfigturm, the old town gate, on picturesque Marktgasse

Laid out in the 13th century, Marktgasse runs east to west from the Zytglogge, the original town gate, to the Käfigturm, the later gate.Marktgasse is now the centre of Bern’s shopping district and also has two Renaissance fountains: the Anna-Seiler-Brunnen, which commemorates the woman who founded Bern’s first hospital in 1354, and the Schützenbrunnen (Musketeer Fountain). On the adjoining Kornhausplatz is the macabre Kindlifresserbrunnen (Ogre Fountain), featuring an ogre eating an infant.

Off the northwestern side of Kornhausgasse stands the Französische Kirche (French Church). Built in the 12th century, it is the oldest church in Bern. It was taken over by French Protestants, most of them Huguenot refugees, in the 17th century.

7

Kramgasse

With Gerechtigkeitsgasse, its eastern extension, Kramgasse marks the main axis of Bern’s early medieval town plan. It is lined with handsome historic buildings fronted by long arcades and has three fountains: the Zähringerbrunnen (1542), with a bear in armour holding the standard of Berthold von Zähringer, Bern’s founder; the Simsonbrunnen (1545), with a figure of Samson subduing a lion; and the unadorned Kreuzgassbrunnen (1778). Located at Kramgasse 49 is the Einsteinhaus, where the great German physicist and mathematician Albert Einstein lived from 1903 to 1905 and where he began to develop the theory of relativity while working at the patent office. Einstein’s apartment is now a museum, displaying his writing desk and other objects from his time in Bern.

Einsteinhaus

" ' Kramgasse 49 # Feb–Dec: 10am–5pm daily einstein-bern.ch

Experience Bern

drink

Café Einstein au Jardin

Perch on the garden terrace, with a famous Einstein brew in hand, and admire the view.

C4 Münsterplattform einstein-jardin.ch




Turnhalle

Chill out with a local brew in front of an open fire or in the courtyard.

B3 Speichergasse 4 turnhalle.ch

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Kornhauskeller

Bern’s most sumptuous beer cellar is a must.

B3 Kornhausplatz 18 kornhaus-bern.ch

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8

Erlacherhof

C3 Junkerngasse 47 ¢ Closed to visitors

Junkerngasse was once home to Bern’s wealthiest citizens. At No 47 is the Erlacherhof, a Baroque mansion built by Hieronymus von Erlach, mayor of Bern, and completed in 1752. Designed in the French style, its wings are set at a right angle to the main building, enclosing a grand courtyard. To the rear is a formal French garden.

The Erlacherhof is now the official residence of the mayor of Bern and the seat of the city’s government.

9

Münstergasse

Running parallel to nearby Kramgasse, Münstergasse links Theaterplatz with Münsterplatz, which is lined with arcaded buildings. On Tuesday and Saturday mornings (and Thursday from April to October), this square is filled with a busy meat and cheese market. During Advent, it is replaced by a large Christmas market.

Where Münstergasse and Theaterplatz meet stands the Stadt- und Universitätsbibliothek, the City and University Library. This 18th-century building stages exhibitions on the history of Bern and on literary subjects.

A fountain with the figure of Moses holding the Ten Commandments stands at the corner of Münstergasse and Münsterplatz, opposite the Münster. He points to the second of them, which forbids idolatry, one of the main tenets of the Reformation.

On the Münster’s south side is the Münsterplattform, a terrace with trees and Baroque pavilions from which there are views over the River Aare.

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t The medieval cobbled street of Münstergasse with its outdoor cafés

Stadt- und Universitätsbibliothek

Münstergasse 61 § 031 631 92 11 # 8am–7pm Mon–Fri, 8am–noon Sat

Experience Bern

EAT


Lötschberg

This place has large communal tables, no reservations and a cheesy menu.

B3 Zeughausgasse 16 loetschberg-aoc.ch


Confiserie la Praline

A little restaurant and bakery with old-world charm and tasty treats.

D1 Rütlistrasse 2 lapraline.ch

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10

Gerechtigkeitsgasse

Some of the oldest and most beautiful arcaded buildings in Bern line this street. Many of them were built as guild houses, and their façades are heavily decorated with motifs reflecting the relevant trade. Gerechtigkeitsgasse, or Street of Justice, also has a fountain, the Gerechtigkeitsbrunnen, which features a figure personifying Justice.

Where Gerechtigkeitsgasse leads to Nydegggasse a castle once stood, probably about 100 years before Berthold V chose the location as a secure spot on which to establish a new town. In the late 15th century the castle was replaced by a small church, the Nydeggkirche, and in the 19th century a stone bridge, the Nydeggbrücke, was built over the deep gorge of the Aare, connecting the Old Town with Bern’s eastern end.

11 '

Rathaus

C3 Rathausplatz 2 rathaus.sites.be.ch

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t The Gothic faÇade of the Rathaus, a typical example of Bernese architecture

The seat of the canton and the city of Bern’s legislative assembly since it was built in 1406–16, the Rathaus is an attractive building with an elegant Gothic façade and double staircase.

Since the 15th century, the Rathaus has undergone several major restorations, and the ground floor was completely rebuilt in 1939–42. However, it still retains its Gothic character. The Visitors’ Gallery is open to the public when the assembly is in session, and free guided tours are held once a month (book ahead online).

Near the Rathaus stands the Neo-Gothic Catholic church, Kirche St Peter und Paul, completed in 1858.

12 "

Bear Park

D3 Grosser Muristalden 6 # 24 hrs by appointment tierpark-bern.ch

Located near the town’s old bear pits, this forested 6,000-sq-m (64,590-sq-ft) modern park is home to three brown bears. Sloping down to the river, the park has numerous caves and pools that provide the bears with a truly natural environment. There is no feeding time, rather food is hidden for the bears to forage.

Next to the old bear pits, in a former tram depot, is one of the town’s two helpful tourist offices, as well as a restaurant serving local cuisine and beer brewed on the premises.

A steep path from the old bear pits leads up to the Rosengarten, containing over 200 varieties of roses.

13 "

Kunsthalle

C4 Helvetiaplatz 1 # 10am–5pm Tue–Sun kunsthalle-bern.ch

The Kunsthalle, a building in the Modernist style, was founded in 1918 and has retained its prominence as a showcase for modern art. It has no permanent collection, but stages a continuous programme of exhibitions by prominent artists.

BERN’S BEARS

Brown bears have been indelibly associated with Bern since the town was founded in 1191. They were kept in pits (Bärengraben) on the far side of the Nydeggbrücke, just across the river from the Old Town’s eastern extremity, from the early 16th century. The old pits are still there, linked by a tunnel to the Bear Park.

14 "

Schweizerisches Alpines Museum

B4 Helvetiaplatz 4 # 10am–5pm Tue–Sun alpinesmuseum.ch

Through various multimedia, including videos, dioramas and paintings inspired by the Alps’ magnificent scenery, this museum describes the geology, topography, climate and natural history of the Swiss Alps, and documents all aspects of human activity in the mountains.

The displays include a graphic explanation of how glaciers are formed, how they are melting and a model of the Bernese Oberland. Separate sections are devoted to various aspects of Alpine life, including transport, industry, tourism and winter sports. The daily life and culture of alpine people are also described, as are current concerns for the environment. One exhibit in the section devoted to the history of mountaineering is The Climb and the Fall, part of two dioramas by Ferdinand Hodler, illustrating the history of the conquest of the Matterhorn.

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Insider Tip

Swim in the River Aare

On a particularly hot day nothing beats being carried along in the bracing current of Bern’s River Aare. Jump in the river for a swim or bathe in the refreshing Marzili swimming pool.

15 "

Museum für Kommunikation

C4 Helvetiastrasse 16 # 10am–5pm Tue–Sun mfk.ch

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t An exhibit in the interactive Museum für Kommunikation

The history of the human endeavour to make contact across long distances is compellingly laid out at the Museum of Communication.

The displays span the gamut from bonfires to satellites. Multimedia presentations dive into radio, described as “the window to the world”, and how cyborgs are the progeny of simple punch cards. The new permanent collection gets visitors singing along with karaoke and trying their hand at hacking.

Also new are the “communicators”, a group of expert hosts who move through the museum to get conversations flowing. The ever-changing temporary exhibitions might include digital detoxing or political cartoons.

16 "

Bernisches Historisches Museum

C4 Helvetiaplatz 5 # 10am–5pm Tue–Sun bhm.ch

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t The wave-like Zentrum Paul Klee, designed by Renzo Piano

Laid out over seven floors of a Neo-Gothic building reminiscent of a medieval fortified castle, Bern’s Museum of History holds some 500,000 artifacts and is also home to the Einstein Museum.

Among the most interesting exhibits here is a spine-chilling depiction of the Dance of Death, a copy of a 16th-century monastic wall painting, but the pride of the museum is its collection of 12 Burgundian tapestries, the oldest of which date from the 15th-century. Among the most notable is the Millefleurs-tapisserie (Thousand Flowers Tapestry).

Other sections are devoted to archaeology, with displays of Stone Age, Ancient Egyptian, Celtic, Roman and Islamic artifacts. The Einstein Museum provides an engaging account of Albert Einstein’s ground-breaking discoveries, as well as the life and loves behind the genius.

17 "

Naturhistorisches Museum

C4 Bernastrasse 15 # 2–5pm Mon, 9am–5pm Tue, Thu & Fri, 9am–6pm Wed, 10am–5pm Sat–Sun nmbe.ch

With roots dating to the early 19th century, Bern’s Museum of Natural History is one of the oldest museums in Switzerland. It is best known for its numerous dioramas of stuffed animals shown in re-creations of their natural habitats. There are sections devoted to Africa, Asia and the Arctic, but the most impressive displays focus on the wildlife of the Alps. On view is the stuffed body of Barry, a St Bernard dog famous for his feats of mountain rescue in the 19th century. The museum also has a large collection of alpine minerals and fossils.

Did You Know?

A skilled musician, Paul Klee chose the visual arts because modern music was “creatively unattractive”.

18 " ' =

Zentrum Paul Klee

F3 Monument im Fruchtland 3 # 10am–5pm Tue–Sun zpk.org

This arts centre houses the world’s largest collection of works by Swiss artist Paul Klee (1879–1940). Of the 4,000 paintings and drawings in its collection, about 200 are on display at any one time. There are temporary exhibitions, guided tours and events such as concerts, theatre, readings and workshops, as well as a separate children’s museum, Creaviva. The undulating building by Italian architect Renzo Piano, and the surrounding sculpture park, are designed to blend in with the landscape.

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