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Baden

D2 22 km (14 miles) NW of Zurich n Bahnhofplatz 1; www.baden.ch

One of Switzerland’s oldest health resorts, Baden (meaning “baths”) is a peaceful, stately town. The therapeutic properties of its hot sulphur springs, which the Romans knew as Aquae Helveticae, have been exploited since ancient times. From the Middle Ages, Baden’s location on the River Limmat has contributed to its becoming an important centre of trade, and its beautiful Old Town is the legacy of this historical status. Today, Baden is still a popular spa centre, with facilities for large numbers of visitors, as well as a thriving industrial town. A good place to begin exploring Baden’s Old Town is the east bank of the Limmat. From here, the rest of the Old Town is reached by crossing a wooden bridge.

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t Autumnal view across the terraces from the ruins of Baden’s castle

Experience Northern Switzerland

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n Double-tap image to read the labels

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Ruine Stein

The ruins of a castle look eastwards towards the Old Town from the top of a rocky promontory, beneath which runs a road tunnel. Originally built in the 10th century, the castle passed through the hands of several noble families before being inherited by the Habsburgs in 1264. It was rebuilt in the 13th century as an arsenal and fortress for Austrian forces, when Baden and the surrounding area fell under Vorderösterreich (Further Austria). In 1712, the castle was destroyed during conflicts between Protestant and Catholic cantons. Today these ruins are wreathed by green spaces, making it a pleasant place for a stroll. The hilltop offers a splendid view over the curving passage of the River Limmat and of the picturesque Old Town laid before it.

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Stadtturm

Schlossbergplatz 3 § 056 200 87 87

This tall four-sided tower was built in the 15th century to guard the Old Town. It is set with four corner turrets, and its steep roof of red, black and white tiles is crowned by a belfry. The tower also features a clock framed by frescoes.

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Pfarrkirche Mariä Himmelfahrt

Kirchplatz § 056 222 57 15

Baden’s parish church, the Church of the Assumption, was built in the centre of the Old Town between 1457 and 1460. Although it was remodelled on several occasions, acquiring Baroque features in the 17th century and Neo-Classical elements in the early 19th, it retains its original Gothic outline, and is topped by a pointed spire. The church treasury, with a collection of liturgical objects, is open to visitors by appointment only.

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Insider Tip

Spanisch Brötli

A light, flaky pastry, filled with a tasty mix of roasted and crushed hazelnuts and apricot jam, this baked treat is a Baden specialty. Enjoy it warm from the oven with a cup of coffee as a delicious morning snack.

Did You Know?

The Reformed church by Bahnhofplatz was built from the stones of the castle after it was destroyed.

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Stadthaus

Rathausgasse 1 # 8am–5pm Mon, Wed–Fri, noon–7pm Tue baden.ch

The Stadthaus, Baden’s town hall, located north of the church, contains a thoughtfully restored council chamber, the Tagsatzungssaal. It was here that the Swiss Diet, an early version of Switzerland’s parliament, sat from 1426 to 1712. This well-preserved chamber is lined with wood panelling and beautifully carved wooden adornments. The striking stained-glass windows, which feature the emblems of 13 of the Swiss cantons, are copies of those created by the Zürich glass painter Lukas Zeiner; each was donated to the Stadthaus by ten towns across the canton in 1500.

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Historisches Museum Baden

Landvogteischloss # 1–5pm Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat, noon–7pm Thu, 10am–5pm Sun museum.baden.ch

The massive Gothic castle on the east bank of the Limmat was built in the 15th century, and from 1415 to 1798 was the residence of Baden’s bailiffs. The castle keep now houses a museum of local history. Its archaeological section includes Roman pottery, coins and other objects found in Baden. There are also displays of weapons, traditional costumes of the Aargau region and rooms decorated in the style of different historical periods. A wing, which extends along the riverbank, contains displays of objects relating to Baden’s more recent history. The interactive displays will keep older children busy, while younger visitors will love exploring the castle with Frank the Bat.

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t A bust of the Roman goddess Juno at the Historisches Museum

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Spa Quarter

A short distance north of the Holzbrücke, along the Limmat’s left bank, Baden’s 18 thermal springs spout warm mineral-rich waters that are especially effective in curing rheumatism and respiratory ailments. The quarter has several hotels with their own pools and wellness areas. A new public complex opened in 2018, with thermal pools and treatment areas.

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Holzbrücke

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t The Holzbrücke stretching across the River Limmat towards the Old Town

Spanning the Limmat from the base of the Historisches Museum Baden, this pretty wooden bridge is covered by a ridge roof. It was built across this narrow stretch of the river to connect the Landvogteischloss (Bailiff’s Castle) to the lower-lying east bank in the 13th century. The current bridge, built in 1810 on 17th-century abutments, had at least five predecessors, each destroyed over the centuries by either natural calamity, such as flood, fire or ice drift, or in an effort to save the town in times of war.

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t Colourfully shuttered houses lining the streets of Old Town near the Holzbrücke

AD 14

The year the Romans discovered the naturally warm springs in the bend of the Limmat.

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Museum Langmatt

Römerstrasse 30 # Mar–Dec: 2–5pm Tue– Fri, 11am–5pm Sat & Sun langmatt.ch

On Römerstrasse, a short walk westwards from the spa area, stands a charming villa that was once the home of the industrialist and art connoisseur Sidney Brown-Sulzer (1865–1941) and his wife, Jenny. The Art Nouveau villa was built in 1900–1901 by Karl Moser; a few years later a wing was added, which, like the house itself, contains an exquisite art collection. The nucleus of the collection consists of French Impressionist paintings, with works by Corot, Pissarro, Renoir, Monet, Sisley, Degas and Cézanne. The collection also includes rare ceramics and a series of 18th-century Venetian veduta, several works by Fragonard and Watteau, and paintings by Van Gogh and Gauguin. Some of the rooms contain 17th- and 18th-century French furniture.

The Brown-Sulzers filled their house with artists and musicians, and in keeping with this tradition, there are regular formal and informal events that bring together art, literature and music in interesting ways to discuss a selected theme. Also regularly held are special events to introduce children to Impressionist art.

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Schweizer Kindermuseum

Ländliweg 7 # 2–5pm Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm Sun kindermuseum.ch

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t A display of toys engaging visitors of all ages at the Schweizer Kindermuseum

Housed in an old mansion, this museum contains an expansive collection of toys and everyday objects from around the world that illustrate various aspects of childhood, including children’s mental development and education. Younger visitors are actively encouraged to touch, examine and play with many of the exhibits.

BadenFahrt

Taking place once every 10 years, this themed party seems to defy what might be expected of a visit to Switzerland. The cobblestoned town swells to 10 times its normal population as attendees flood in to chug beer, chow down on street food, dance to Swiss-German rap music till the wee hours and go for a spin on carnival rides. It’s a rare opportunity to see the Swiss really let their hair down.

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