1. Accademia Galleries

See Accademia Galleries.

2. Zattere

This broad waterfront took its name from the rafts of timber (zattere) floated downstream from the extensive forests in the northern Dolomite region which were managed by the Venetian Republic. The precious wood was either used for constructing palaces or transformed into masts and the like for the important shipbuilding industry. The tall-masted sailing ships and rowing boats that used to moor here have long since been replaced by motorized vaporetti and tourist launches, and nowadays the Zattere signifies lovely lagoon views and is perfect for a daytime or evening stroll.

Chiesa dei Gesuati, Zattere

3. San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

Campo S Nicolò, Dorsoduro 1907 • 041 275 03 82 • Open 10am–noon, 3–5:30pm Mon–Sat, 9am–noon Sun

This Veneto-Byzantine church with an imposing square campanile (bell tower) is known to film buffs from Nicholas Roeg’s chilling 1973 film Don’t Look Now. Hidden in a maze of alleyways off the port zone, it has a pretty portico that doubled as a shelter for the poor. Founded in the 7th century, it is the second-oldest church in Venice. In the 1970s it was restored by the Venice in Peril Fund, who waterproofed the low floor.

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

4. Squero di San Trovaso

This is the city’s most famous gondola repair and construction yard, though its days may be numbered. The combined workshop-dwelling is reminiscent of an Alpine chalet, as the first occupants came from the mountainous Cadore region. Closed to visitors, it backs on to a canal (Rio di San Trovaso), so it’s easy to watch the caulking and cleaning in progress.

5. Chiesa di San Sebastiano

Campo S Sebastiano, Dorsoduro 1907 • 041 275 04 62 • Open 10:30am–4:30pm Mon–Sat • Adm • www.chorusvenezia.org

This 16th-century church (see Chiesa di San Sebastiano) is a treasure trove of Paolo Veronese paintings. The artist devoted most of his life to its fresco cycle.

6. Rio Terrà dei Catecumeni

A reclaimed thoroughfare between the Zattere and Santa Maria della Salute, this stretch is dominated by a long building, now a school, where prisoners-of-war of the Republic who did not profess the Christian faith were held captive until they converted. This quiet backwater comes alive on 21 November with the Salute festivities.

7. Campo Santa Margherita

The sprawling square of Santa Margherita, lined with houses from the 14th and 15th centuries, is the lively hub of western Dorsoduro. Market stalls, offbeat shops and cafés attract many young people. The colourful fish stalls sell live eels and lobster, the erborista aternative medicine, and the bakers some of the tastiest loaves in Venice. The former church of Santa Margherita, now an auditorium owned by the university, lies to the north of the square. Visitors can see sculptural fragments from the original 18th-century church, including gargoyles on the truncated campanile and adjacent house.

8. Punta della Dogana

Campo della Salute, Dorsoduro 2 • 041 523 16 80 • 10am–7pm Wed–Mon • Adm • www.palazzograssi.it

This exciting addition to the Venetian contemporary art scene is housed in an imposing 17th-century customs building, the interior of which was renovated by Japanese architect Tadao Ando. It contains important works, including pieces by British artists Rachel Whiteread and the Chapman Brothers, and offers fantastic views towards St Mark’s, San Giorgio and the two main canals of Venice. Tickets also grant entry into the Palazzo Grassi.

Punta della Dogana

9. Chiesa dei Gesuati

Fondamente delle Zattere, Dorsoduro 917 • 041 275 06 42 • Open 10:30am–4:30pm Mon–Sat • Adm • www.chorusvenezia.org

Set right on the Zattere waterfront close to the main ferry moorings, the Gesuati (also known as Santa Maria del Rosario) is often confused with the Gesuiti (Jesuit) establishment in Cannaregio. Taking over from a minor religious order, the Domenican friars had this church constructed in Classical style in 1726 by Giorgio Massari. Inside, the ceiling consists of three uplifting frescoes (1737–9) by Tiepolo, considered among his best work, portraying St Dominic amid glorious angels in flight.

Altar in Chiesa dei Gesuati

10. Peggy Guggenheim Collection

Intended as a four-storey palace, this building never rose beyond the ground floor. It was in 1949, that the building was bought as a home by Peggy Guggenheim, a collector, dealer and patron of the arts. She had her vast collection of modern European and American art in this museum (see Peggy Guggenheim Collection), which was inaugurated in 1980. Today, Guggenheim remains Venice’s most visited sights. The light-filled rooms and the modern canvases provide a striking contrast to the Renaissance paintings which are the main attraction in Venetian churches and museums.

1. 3856

Calle San Pantalon, Dorsoduro 3749

A small but perfectly assembled selection of clothing and accessories is available at this shop run by a friendly mother-and-daughter team.

2. Bottega Tramontin Gondole

Calle del Fabbro, Dorsoduro 3282

This shop sells lovely handmade ornaments, souvenirs and jewellery inspired by traditional Venetian gondolas. Many of the items have been crafted using wood from real gondolas.

3. Totem-Il Canale Gallery

Rio Terrà Antonio Foscarini, Dorsoduro 878/B

Bulky ancient beads, made with vitreous paste and once traded in Africa, count as precious antiques. There are modern African wood artworks too.

4. Signor Blum

Campo S Barnaba, Dorsoduro 2840

Detailed jigsaw models of Gothic palaces, flanked by wall panels and painted toy figures are handmade by this co-operative of female artisans.

Signor Blum

5. Augusto Mazzon

Calle del Traghetto, Dorsoduro 2783

Everyone’s Christmas tree needs one of the joyous gilded cherubs lovingly crafted by wood-carver and painter Danilo. He also makes picture frames and furniture.

6. Officina Veneziana

Campo S Pantalon, Dorsoduro 3701

Choose from a wonderful selection of Art Deco jewellery, Easter eggs, Christmas decorations and fine china.

7. Perla Madre Design

Calle delle Botteghe, Dorsoduro 3182

Colourful glass bead jewellery is made right in front of your eyes by designer Simona Iacovazzi.

Trendy design shop Madera

8. Madera

Campo S Barnaba, Dorsoduro 2762

This contemporary design store has minimalist pieces in wood and glass, as well as gorgeous ceramics.

9. Libreria Toletta

Sacca della Toletta, Dorsoduro 1213

Specializing in art and architecture, this popular bookshop also has a great collection of guidebooks and novels in English.

10. Arras

Campiello Squelini, Dorsoduro 3235

This shop stocks original hand-woven fabrics, garments and bags in beautiful colours.