SOUTH OF TIAN’AN MEN SQUARE
The Qian Men (Front Gate) at the southern end of Tian’an Men Square was once part of the inner walls that divided the imperial quarters from the “Chinese city,” where the massed populace lived. Walking south from the gate you are plunged into a network of lively hutongs (alleys), the remnants of the old quarter. Continuing south down Qian Men Dajie brings you to the western perimeter of the grounds of the Temple of Heaven, one of Beijing’s most evocative sights.
1. Fayuan Temple
7 Fayuan Si Qian Jie • 6353 4171 • Subway: Caishikou, then a 10-minute walk • Open 8:30am–3:30pm daily • Adm
Dating from AD 696, this is most likely the oldest temple in Beijing. Near the gate, the incense burner is flanked by the Drum and Bell Towers. Beyond, the Hall of the Heavenly Kings is guarded by a pair of bronze lions. A hall contains a large statue of Buddha.
Incense burner at Fayuan Temple
2. Liulichang
Subway: Heping Men
Head west from the bustle of Qian Men and Dazhalan into a more peaceful hutong district. Historically a gathering spot for writers, artists, and musicians, Liulichang takes its name from the glazed tile factory once located here. The streets are lined with shops selling Chinese paintings, musical instruments, porcelain, and calligraphy – look out for the giant ink brushes hanging in the windows. During Chinese New Year, Liulichang is home to one of Beijing’s most colorful Temple Fairs.
Colorful building in Liulichang
3. Qian Men and Dazhalan
Subway: Qian Men
A historical royal street as well as a traditional shopping area, Qian Men Dajie has been redeveloped into a period-themed shopping boulevard replete with a faux-1920s tram and birdcage-like streetlamps. Running east and west off the northern end of Qian Men is Dazhalan Jie, or Dashilan, an old hutong area that can be explored on foot or by rickshaw. It is full of Qing-era specialty shops selling pickles, tea, silks, as well as traditional Chinese medicine.
4. Beijing Planning Exhibition Hall
20 Qian Men Dong Dajie • 6701 7074 • Subway: Qian Men • Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun • www.bjghzl.com.cn
On display at this four-floor museum are dreams of the architecture and urban landscape of Beijing to be. These are dramatically represented through film and interactive exhibits, plus a vast model that covers most of the third floor. An interesting section is dedicated to Beijing’s urban makeover for the 2008 Olympics.
Beijing Planning Exhibition Hall
5. Legation Quarter
Subway: Qian Men
At the end of the Second Opium War, in 1860, foreign delegations were permitted to take up residence in a quarter southeast of the Forbidden City. On Dong Jiao Min Xiang and the surrounding streets, the first modern foreign buildings in Beijing took root. The embassies have long since left, and new occupants have moved in. The former American legation, for instance, is now a bar, restaurant, and lifestyle complex. Also here are the former City Bank of New York, now the Beijing Police Museum, and St. Michael’s Church.
6. Temple of Heaven
The name refers to a vast complex that encompasses a large, marble sacrificial altar, the iconic three-story Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests, the smaller Imperial Vault of Heaven, and many ancillary buildings, all set in a landscaped park. Allow at least a half-day to take in everything (see Temple of Heaven (Tian Tan)).
Ornate hall in the Temple of Heaven
7. Niu Jie Mosque
88 Niu Jie • 6353 2564 • Subway: Guanganmennei, then walk • Open 8am–sunset daily • Adm
Beijing’s oldest and largest mosque dates back to the 10th century. It’s an attractive building with Islamic motifs and Arabic verses decorating its halls. Astronomical observations were made from the tower-like Wangyue Lou. The lush courtyard is an idyllic escape from the city streets. Visitors should dress conservatively, and non-Muslims are not allowed to enter the prayer hall.
Looking inside Niu Jie Mosque
8. South Cathedral
141 Qian Men Xi Dajie • Subway: Xuanwu Men • English Mass: 10:30am Sun
Known officially in Beijing as the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, this was the first Catholic church to be built in the city. It stands on the site of the residence of the first Jesuit missionary to reach the city, Matteo Ricci. Arriving in 1601, the Italian won the favor of the Wanli emperor by presenting him with gifts of European curiosities such as mathematical instruments and clocks. Ricci founded the church in 1605, although the present building dates to 1904, replacing a structure that was burned down during the Boxer Rebellion. It has some fine stained-glass windows.
9. Natural History Museum
126 Tangqiao Nan Dajie • 6702 7702 • Subway: Zhushikou, then walk • Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun • www.bmnh.org.cn
This overbearing piece of 1950s architecture houses a great collection of dinosaur skeletons, as well as stuffed pandas and other animals. There are also fish, both dead (preserved in formaldehyde) and alive (in the aquarium).
10. Ancient Architecture Museum
21 Dongjing Lu • 6304 5608 • Bus 15 to Nanwei Lu • Open 9am–4pm Tue–Sun • Adm (audio guide ¥10, plus ¥100 deposit)
Housed in the Hall of Jupiter, part of the Xiannong Tan temple complex, this museum focuses on the ancient construction techniques of Beijing buildings, all illuminated with detailed models. A fascinating 3D plan shows the city as it was in 1949, its city walls and gates largely intact.
Ancient Architecture Museum
THE BOXERS
The Boxers, a band of xenophobic rebels from north China who rose up to rid China of the “foreign devils,” drew from superstitious rituals that they believed made them invulnerable. Supported by the Empress Dowager Cixi, the rebels laid waste to Beijing’s Legation Quarter in 1900 while besieging the district’s foreign population. The siege was eventually broken by an eight-power allied force.
A DAY SOUTH OF TIAN’AN MEN SQUARE
MORNING
Start on Tian’an Men Square, at the southeast corner beside the stripey brick Old Qian Men Railway Station, built by the British in 1906, partly to bring military forces straight to the assistance of foreigners in case of a repeat of the siege of the Boxers. It’s now a Railway Museum. Venture east along Dong Jiao Min Xiang into the Legation Quarter to visit the Police Museum. On leaving, head south to Qian Men Dong Dajie and walk back west for a glimpse of the Beijing of the future at the Beijing Planning Exhibition Hall. From the museum, head into the hutongs toward Dazhalan for some crispy roast duck at Deyuan.
AFTERNOON
Head east along Dazhalan Jie. This is a great place for specialty shops. Located down the first alley is 400-year-old Liubiju, selling a vast array of pickles. Ruifuxiang dates from 1893 and is renowned for silks. Tongrentang Pharmacy has been in business since 1669, while Zhangyiyuan Chazhuang has been trading teas since the early 20th century. For an unconventional tea-tasting experience, head west to Alice’s Tea House, then grab a spicy Hunan dinner at The Southern Fish.
Shops
1. Liulichang
This picturesque street (see Liulichang) was renovated in the 1980s to give it an Old China look. It’s still fun to browse for antiques and art supplies.
Souvenir shop on Liulichang
2. Hong Qiao Market
36 Hong Qiao Lu • 6713 3354 • Open 8:30am–7pm daily
Specializing in pearls and precious stones, this indoor market also sells clothes, bags, and shoes (see Hong Qiao Market).
3. Panjiayuan Antique Market
Panjiayuan Qiao • 6775 2405 • Subway: Panjiayuan • Open 8:30am–6pm Mon–Fri, 4:30am–6pm Sat & Sun
Set the alarm for dawn for a treasure hunt down at Beijing’s sprawling flea market.
Antiques from Panjiayuan
4. Beijing Curio City
21 Dong San Huan Nan Lu • 6774 7711 • Subway: Panjiayuan • Open 10am–7pm daily
Just south of Panjiayuan, Curio City has four levels of antiques, porcelain, carpets, Buddhist statues and jewelry.
5. Neiliansheng
34 Dazhalan Jie • 6301 4863
Beijing’s best-known shoe store, in business since 1853 is known for supplying footwear to Chairman Mao.
6. Maliandao Tea Street
11 Maliandao Lu, Guang’anmen Wai • Bus 46, 89, 414, or special line 27 • Open 9am–7pm daily
This three-floor market (literally, “tea street”) could also be called “Little Fujian,” so ubiquitous are traders from China’s tea capital. It’s Beijing’s best place to buy or sample an incredible variety of teas.
7. Ruifuxiang
5 Dazhalan Dong Jie • 6303 5764 • Open 9am–9pm daily
Silk has been sold on this precise spot since 1893. Tailors can create pretty blouses and qipaos (the old-style Chinese dress).
8. Qian Xiang Yi Silk Store
5 Zhubaoshi, Qianmen Jie • 6301 6658
This venerable store is said to date back to 1840. Prices for quality tailoring and ready-made clothes are reasonable.
9. Tongrentang Pharmacy
24 Qian Men Dazhalan
Founded in 1669, Tongrentang is China’s oldest pharmacy. The store stocks thousands of traditional medicines, some of which were used in the imperial court.
10. Liubiju
3 Liangshidian Jie
A jar of Chinese pickles may not be high on your list of essentials, but a visit to this colorful, nearly 500-year-old shop should be.
Restaurants and Teahouses
1. Soloist Coffee Co
39 Yangmeizhu Xiejie, near Maishi Jie • 5711 1717 • ¥
Soloist’s coffee is roasted in-house, and wait staff are friendly coffee snobs who make perfect brews.
2. Suzuki Kitchen
16 Yangmeizhu Xie Jie, Dongcheng District • 6313 5409 • ¥
A small and cozy restaurant that serves great Japanese hotpot and curries at very reasonable prices.
3. Liqun Roast Duck Restaurant
11 Beixianfeng Hutong, enter via Zhengyi Lu • 6705 5578 • ¥¥
Beijing duck at this little courtyard restaurant is usually sublime, despite the rough-and-ready ambience.
4. Lao She Teahouse
3 Qian Men Xi Dajie • 6303 6830 • ¥¥
A fascinating old-style Beijing teahouse that hosts acrobatics and opera shows in a small upstairs theater. It’s a touristy spot, but worth a visit nonetheless.
Decorative exterior, Lao She Teahouse
5. Qian Men Quanjude
32 Qian Men Dajie • 6511 2418 • ¥¥
A famous Quanjude restaurant; Call by for take-away duck pancakes.
6. The Southern Fish
49, Gongmenkou Toutiao • ¥¥
In the heart of the hutongs, in a chic courtyard, lies this popular place serving spicy Hunan classics. Book ahead or take your chances (see The Southern Fish).
7. Alice’s Tea House
81 Tieshuxie Jie, Xicheng District • 6908 0852 • ¥
The friendly owner, Alice, will take you through the varieties of Chinese tea and the tea ceremony. Book ahead.
8. Deyuan
57 Dashilan Xi Dajie, Xicheng District • 6308 5371 • ¥¥
One of the better places to enjoy duck with locals, not tourists – and at bargain prices, too.
9. Lost Heaven
23 Qian Men Dong Dajie • 8516 2698 • ¥¥¥
A luxuriously designed restaurant serving a tangy fusion of Yunnan, Thai, and Burmese cuisines.
10. Lao Beijing Zhajiang Mian Da Wang
56 Dong Xinglong Jie • 6701 1116 • ¥
A bustling eatery selling traditional Beijing snacks. Cheap and tasty fare.