EXPERIENCE MORE

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Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal

11 miles (18 km) W of La Fortuna @ To La Fortuna, then by jeep-taxi # 8am–4pm daily (last admission 2:30pm) sinac.go.cr

144_foam_museum

t The perfectly conical peak of once active

Encircling the country’s most historically active volcano, Arenal Volcano National Park spreads over 45 sq miles (120 sq km). Rising from the San Carlos Plains, the majestic Arenal was thought by pre-Columbian tribes to be the sacred “Home of the Fire God.” Arenal ceased activity between the 13th and 16th centuries, and stayed inactive until July 29, 1968, when an earthquake re-awakened it. The perfectly conical 5,400-ft- (1,650-m-) high volcano ceased erupting in 2010 and remains inactive, but not extinct.

Visitors can walk or drive close to the base of the volcano and then follow trails across an old lava flow and into the rainforest. At the westernmost edge, next to Lake Arenal, there is a paved trail (suitable for wheelchairs) through forest with lookout points and an observation tower, from where you can see the volcano and lake. The ranger station at the park entrance has restrooms and sells maps, while tour companies and hotels in La Fortuna offer guided tours.

The park also includes the dormant Volcán Chato to the east. Arenal Observatory Lodge and volcanology museum, midway up the western flank of Chato, has stunning views of Volcán Arenal and Lake Arenal. Trails from here lead through forest to Chato’s summit, where a jade-colored lake in the crater shimmers with opportunities for canoeing.

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t Volcán Arenal

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La Fortuna

81 miles (131 km) NW of San José @

Volcán Arenal towers over this agricultural community and tourist hub, officially known as La Fortuna de San Carlos. Situated on a gentle slope, the picturesque town is laid out on a grid around a broad, landscaped plaza. A modern church stands on the plaza, its tall bell tower contrasting with Arenal behind. Restaurants and hotels cater to tourists and several agencies offer riding, caving, fishing, biking, and rafting. A popular horseback trip is to Monteverde, but the ride is quite taxing for the horses, so take care to check that the animals are well looked after.

Southeast of the town, an educational and surprisingly fun-filled introduction to sustainable organic farming is on offer at Finca Educativa Don Juan, which ends with a typical campesino lunch. Head westward to Arenal Natura for a fantastic frog garden and reptile house, as well as great dawn birdwatchers’ tours and night walks at 6pm. Also in the vicinity, the “wild” Arenal Mundo Aventura is a petite 2-sq-mile (5-sq-km) wildlife refuge and ecotour center with trails, rappeling, and canopy tours. Less energetic visitors can soak in thermal waters at Baldi Hot Springs Hotel Resort and Spa, which has landscaped outdoor pools and a swim-up bar and restaurant, or The Springs Resort and Spa, which also has thermal pools and cascades.

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Finca Educativa Don Juan

1 mile (1.6 km) SE of La Fortuna § 2479-1130 # 8am–5pm daily

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Arenal Natura

4 miles (6.5 km) W of La Fortuna # 8am–8pm daily arenalnatura.com

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Arenal Mundo Aventura

1 mile (1.6 km) S of La Fortuna § 2479-2190 # 8am–5pm daily

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Baldi Hot Springs Hotel Resort and Spa

3 miles (5 km) W of La Fortuna # 9am–10pm daily baldihotsprings.cr

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The Springs Resort and Spa

6 miles (10 km) W of La Fortuna # 8am–10pm daily thespringscostarica.com

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Tabacón Thermal Resort and Spa

8 miles (13 km) W of La Fortuna @ From La Fortuna # 10am–10pm daily tabacon.com

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t Enjoying the cascading thermal waters at the Tabacón Thermal Resort

Steaming-hot waters pour out from the base of Volcán Arenal and tumble through this lush, landscaped balneario (bathing resort). The Río Tabacón feeds a series of therapeutic mineral pools with temperatures that range from 27° to 39° C (80° to 102° F). The main pool has a swim-up bar, and there is a splendid restaurant (Don Rufino). The balneario’s Grand Spa is a sumptuous alfresco full-service spa. Try a volcanic mud wrap, a local specialty treatment.

Experience Northern Zone

stay

Arenal Observatory Lodge

With astounding views of Volcán Arenal, this comfortable nature lodge has a wide range of rooms from the simple to the deluxe.

Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal arenalobservatorylodge.com

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Arenal Naraya

This divine Asian-inspired hotel boasts volcano views, and offers gourmet eating as well as a deluxe spa.

La Fortuna arenalnayara.com

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Casitas Tenorio B&B

Find private casitas (bungalows) and tasty morning meals at this Costa Rican-Australian family-run farm.

10 km from Parque Nacional Volcan Tenorio

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Chalet Nicholas

Run by US expats, this lovely B&B is a haven of relaxation, set amid lush gardens and flanked by old-growth rainforest.

Nuevo Arenal chaletnicholas.com

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Experience Northern Zone

eat

Don Rufino

Organic fusion dishes are served at this rustic yet elegant restaurant.

La Fortuna donrufino.com

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Pizza John’s Jardin Escondido

Feast alfresco on delicious stone-baked pizza and homemade ice cream.

El Castillo § 8801-0967

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Tom’s Pan

This German bakery serves homemade strudels and Costa Rican classics.

Nuevo Arenal § 2694-4547

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Gingerbread

Israeli chef Eyal creates delicious fusion dishes, from duck quesadillas to shrimp risotto.

Nuevo Arenal gingerbreadarenal.com

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Ave del Paraíso

Costa Rican staples are served alongside volcano views. Try the corvina fish.

Tabacón tabacon.com

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Arenal Theme Park

El Castillo, 14 miles (22 km) W of La Fortuna @ To La Fortuna, then by jeep-taxi # 7:30am–5pm daily skyadventures.travel

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t Following the trail through the canopy at Mistico Arenal park

Teleféricos (aerial trams) whisk visitors up the northern slopes of the Cordillera de Tilarán at this private facility southeast of Lake Arenal. At the top, a series of 2-mile- (3-km-) long ziplines connect the canopies, sending adrenaline junkies on exhilarating rides across broad ravines. There is also mountain biking and canyoning.

A little further west along the lakeside road is the turnoff to the Butterfly Conservatory, which has a small, fascinating display of insects, scorpions, and snakes, as well as a butterfly garden and a medicinal herb garden. Tours take in the atrium habitats, labs, and glasshouses.

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Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park

12 miles (19 km) W of La Fortuna @ To La Fortuna, then by jeep-taxi # 6:15am–4:30pm daily (night tour at 6:30pm) misticopark.com

A self-guided trail meanders through pristine primary forest, punctuated by a series of 14 bridges suspended over ravines. The relatively easy, 2-mile (3-km) trail clings to the mountainside and offers close-up views of every level of the tropical forest, from ground to canopy. Among the tours available are the Spider Monkey Canyon Tour, which includes abseiling, and a twilight birding tour.

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Cavernas de Venado

1 mile (1.6 km) W of Venado, 24 miles (39 km) NW of La Fortuna @ From Ciudad Quesada # 8am–4pm daily cavernasdelvenadocr.com

Bioluminescent fungi light the way for visitors scrambling through the underground passageways of these limestone caverns to the north of Lake Arenal. Ten chambers, accessible by a dirt road that begins at Hotel La Mansion Inn, extend almost 2 miles (3 km). Exquisite stalagmites and stalactites fill the labyrinthine and narrow chambers, many of which contain marine fossils. Cascada de La Muerte is an underground waterfall that gushes during the wet season from May to November, and after heavy rain. Bats flit about, blind fish swim in the underground streams, and small transparent frogs hop around in the ooze.

Guides, whose services can be arranged in La Fortuna, lead two-hour-long explorations through the caves, offering a fascinating commentary of the different rock formations. Wilbert Solis, who owns the land under which the caves are located, supplies safety helmets, flashlights, and rubber boots. Come prepared to get covered in mud, and bring a change of clothes. Venado is also accessible by a dirt road that begins at Hotel La Mansion Inn, on the north shore of Lake Arenal.

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Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Caño Negro

65 miles (105 km) NW of La Fortuna § 2471-1309 @ From Upala g From Los Chiles # 8am–4pm daily

One of Costa Rica’s main wetland conservation areas, Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge protects over 38 sq miles (98 sq km) of marshlands, lagoons, and yolillo palm forest. Most visitors come to fish for snook and tarpon, which thrive in the Río Frío and other watercourses that feed Lago Caño Negro, a 3-sq-mile (9-sq-km) seasonal lake. Rare ancient garfish, usually found in the Atlantic Ocean, also inhabit the lake’s tannin-stained waters. The short dry season (December–April) is best for viewing crocodiles, caimans, and the large mammals that gather near permanent bodies of water.

Monkeys and tapirs are numerous, while jaguars and other cats are more elusive. Lucky visitors may also see large flocks of jabiru storks, Nicaraguan grackles, roseate spoonbills, and the largest colony of neotropic cormorants in Costa Rica, passing through during migration.

Caño Negro village, on the west bank of Lago Caño Negro, is the only community within the reserve. The park headquarters is located here, as are several lodges that arrange guided tours and fishing licenses. Boats can also be rented in the nearby town of Los Chiles, and several agencies in San José offer tours, especially during the fishing season (July–March). Much of the area floods in the wet season. Access along the dirt roads can be a challenge, so 4WD is recommended.

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Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio

7 miles (11 km) E of Bijagua § 2200-0135 @ From Upala, then by jeep-taxi # 8am–4pm daily

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t The brilliant Pozo Azul on the Río Celeste, Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio

Several nature lodges offer easy access to this 71-sq-mile (184-sq-km) park. Trails lead through montane rainforest to thermal springs and the Pozo Azul, a teal-blue pool at the base of the volcano. Local guides lead hikes in search of tapirs and other wildlife, but the summit trail is closed to all but scientists.

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HIDDEN GEM

Iguana Encounters

A sea of green iguanas sprawl in the bamboo and branches at the Centro Turístico Iguana Azul on Ruta 35, just north of the Muelle junction. A bridge offers eye-to-eye views of the lazing reptiles. At the adjacent restaurant, they hang around for tidbits of tossed fruit.

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Sarapiquí Rainforest Lodge

La Virgen de Sarapiquí, 29 miles (47 km) N of Alajuela @ From San José to Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí # 9am–5pm daily sarapiquis.com

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t Kayaking at the Cinco Ceibas Rainforest Reserve and Adventure Park

This broad-ranging ecological center on the banks of the Río Sarapiquí offers an enriching insight into indigenous cultures. The state-of-the-art Museo de Cultura Indígena is a fantastic museum, dedicated to Costa Rica’s living indigenous communities and the preservation of their artifacts.

The Parque Arqueológico Alma Alta, set in an orange grove, is centered around four indigenous tombs, dating from the 15th century, and a re-created pre-Columbian village. Local indigenous guides offer tours of Chester’s Field Botanical Gardens. Named for the naturalist Chester Czepulos (1916–92), the gardens have about 500 native species of plants renowned since pre-Columbian times for their medicinal use. The center also has a top-notch restaurant and hotel, as well as a library and conference center.

The center adjoins the Tirimbina Rainforest Reserve, which protects just over 1 sq mile (3 sq km) of mid-elevation premontane forest. It can be reached from Sarapiquí Rainforest Lodge by an 855-ft- (260-m-) long suspension bridge across the Río Sarapiquí. A 325-ft (100-m) canopy walkway features among Tirimbina’s 5 miles (8 km) of trails. Guided tours include a special “World of Bats” night walk. Adjoining Tirimbina, Dave and Dave’s Nature Park (that’s Dave Landos Sr. and Dave Jr.) is a supreme birding venue, with observation decks, trails, and guided tours. Five minutes south. Hacienda Pozo Azul is a working cattle ranch that offers white-water rafting trips and canopy tours. The nearby Snake Garden allows visitors to get close to 70 snake species. Further afield, the Cinco Ceibas Rainforest Reserve and Adventure Park is part of a vast farm that can be toured in an ox-pulled cart. It also offers horseback riding and kayaking.

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Tirimbina Rainforest Reserve

# 7am–5pm daily tirimbina.org

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Dave and Dave’s Nature Park

La Virgen de Sarapiquí # 7am–5pm daily eco-observatory.com

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Hacienda Pozo Azul

La Virgen de Sarapiquí # 9am–6:30pm daily pozoazul.com

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Snake Garden

La Virgen de Sarapiquí # 9am–5pm daily § snakegardencr.com

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Cinco Ceibas Rainforest Reserve and Adventure Park

20 miles (32 km) NW of La Virgen via San Miguel # 10am–5pm daily cincoceibas.com

Bananas

Costa Rica is the world’s seventh-largest banana producer and its second-largest exporter. Massive tracts of protected rainforest are felled each year to plant bananas, and many chemicals are used to maintain output. When washed out to sea, these chemicals kill fish, poison the waters, and foster the growth of plants that choke estuaries and corals. As a result of environmental campaigns, the banana industry now follows more ecologically sensitive practices.

Did You Know?

When you’re on the Río San Juan, you’re in Nicaragua, whose border extends to the Costa Rican shore of the river.

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Ciudad Quesada (San Carlos)

59 miles (95 km) NW of San José @ n ICT, 75 yards N of Universidad Católica, 2461-9102

An important market center serving the local dairy and cattle industries, Ciudad Quesada is set amid pastures atop the mountain scarp of the Cordillera de Tilarán, at an elevation of 2,130 ft (650 m). The town, known locally as San Carlos, is the administrative center for the region, and is famous for its annual cattle fair. The town’s numerous talabarterías (saddle-makers’ workshops) and heladerías (ice cream shops) make a visit here well worthwhile.

Highway 140 slopes east out of town, passing Termales del Bosque, where visitors can soak in thermal mineral springs and have mud baths. Hiking trails lace botanical gardens, while the adventurous can take a zipline canopy tour. Nearby, La Marina Zoológica is a non-profit zoo that takes in rescued animals. Its numerous inhabitants include jaguars, agoutis, monkeys, peccaries, and snakes, as well as macaws, toucans, and other bird species. Tapirs are also bred here for release into the wild.

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t Warm thermal pools of mineral-rich waters at Termales del Bosque

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Termales del Bosque

4 miles (6 km) E of Ciudad Quesada # 7am–10pm daily termalesdelbosque.com

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La Marina Zoológica

6 miles (10 km) E of Ciudad Quesada # 8am–4pm daily zoocostarica.com

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Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí

52 miles (84 km) N of San José @ g

Positioned at the base of the Cordillera Central, on the banks of the Río Sarapiquí, Puerto Viejo has functioned as an important river port since colonial days.

Banana trees cover most of the Llanura de San Carlos flatlands around Puerto Viejo. Head to Bananero La Colonia, a processing factory in the middle of banana fields, for a tour to learn more.

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Bananero La Colonia

3 miles (5 km) SE of Puerto Viejo bananatourcostarica.com

147

The number of participants in La Selva’s 2018 Christmas Bird Count.

Experience Northern Zone

DRINK

Cafe y Macadamia

Fantastic rich coffees and fresh smoothies, plus tasty dishes, vie with epic views.

1 mile (1.6 km) E of Guadalajara cafe-macadamia.com


Hotel Lake Arenal and Brewery

Enjoy superb brews and gorgeous views of the lake at this hotel’s micro-brewery.

3 miles (5 km) N of Tilarán lakearenalhotel.com


Delicias Caribeñas de MAMI

A casual and buzzy spot for a cool Imperial, alongside delicious Caribbean fare.

Heredia § 2261-2013


La Fortuna Pub

Great food and a whopping selection of Costa Rican craft brews.

La Fortuna § 2479-1511


Lava Lounge Bar and Grill

This no-frills open-air bar hosts great live music nights and raises money for a local dog rescue.

La Fortuna lavaloungecostarica.com


Volcán Look Disco

Stay for one more drink at this huge disco and dance until dawn.

3 miles (5 km) W of La Fortuna § 8836-1166 # Fri–Sun

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La Selva Biological Station

2 miles (3 km) S of Puerto Viejo @ From San José to Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí, then by jeep-taxi # 8am–5pm daily, by appt only ots.ac.cr

Created by scientist Dr. Leslie Holdridge in 1954, La Selva Biological Station has been run as a private research facility by the Organization of Tropical Studies (OTS) since 1968. Scientific research at this 6-sq-mile (15-sq-km) reserve spans physiological ecology, soil science, and forestry, with over 1,000 tree species in the Holdridge Arboretum.

The predominant habitat is a vast swath of lowland and premontane rainforest at the base of the Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo. Snakes, although abundant, are rarely seen. More noticeable are poison-dart frogs, enameled in gaudy colors, and more than 500 species of butterflies, including neon-blue morphos. Elusive jaguars and other big cats prowl the forests, preying on monkeys, coatis, and deer, which are among La Selva’s 120 mammal species, and little peccaries are commonly seen around the facility. About half of Costa Rica’s bird species have been sighted here; as a result, the annual 24-hour La Selva Christmas Bird Count has become a pilgrimage for ornithologists from around the world. A basic bird-watching course is offered on Saturdays. Although it is open to the public access to the reserve is restricted to just 65 people, with scientists and students getting priority, so it’s important to book your visit in advance.

OTS offers guided tours from San José that include transportation, but the gift shop has self-guiding booklets that cover the 31 miles (50 km) of boardwalk trails crisscrossing La Selva. Precipitation here can exceed 157 inches (400 cm) in a year, so expect to get muddy on many of the trails. Dormitory lodging is offered depending on whether space is available.

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t Observing what’s beneath the currents at La Selva Biological Station

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Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Corredor Fronterizo

Bahía Salinas to Punta Castillo § 2471-2191 (Los Chiles)

The 230-sq-mile (590-sq-km) Frontier Corridor National Wildlife Refuge protects a wide strip of Costa Rican territory along the border with Nicaragua, from Bahía Salinas on the west coast to Punta Castillo on the east. The eastern part of the refuge runs along the Río San Juan. Lined with virgin rainforest, this broad river flows 120 miles (195 km) east from Lake Nicaragua to Punta Castillo, and has long been disputed by the two nations.

Water-taxis link Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí to Trinidad village, where the Ríos San Juan and Sarapiquí meet. The river trip through the reserve is splendid for spotting sloths, crocodiles, and myriad birds, including oropendolas.

Boca San Carlos, 24 miles (39 km) upstream of Trinidad on the Río San Juan, has an airstrip and can also be reached by a dirt road. It is a gateway for river journeys into Nicaragua. Nearby, Laguna del Lagarto is a private reserve protecting 2 sq miles (5 sq km) of virgin rainforest and swamp, and lagoons inhabited by elusive manatees. A nature lodge offers excellent wildlife viewing. Also worth a visit is the 17th-century Fortaleza de la Inmaculada Concepción, a restored mossy hilltop fort near the Nicaraguan hamlet of El Castillo, 25 miles (40 km) upstream of Boca San Carlos. Its small museum recounts when Spanish defenders fought back pirates and an English invasion fleet led by Lord Nelson.

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Laguna del Lagarto

10 miles (16 km) S of Boca San Carlos lagarto-lodge-costa-rica.com

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Selva Verde

5 miles (8 km) W of Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí @ From San José to Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí # 6am–7pm daily selvaverde.com

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t Awaiting a weary hiker, a hammock on the balcony at Selva Verde lodge

One of the country’s best private reserves, Selva Verde (Green Forest) lies alongside the Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo. A prime destination for birders, the virgin low-elevation rainforest is home to over 420 bird species, including eight species of parrots. Ocelots, sloths, cheeky capuchin monkeys, and vocal mantled howler monkeys are among the 120 species of mammals to be seen. Poison-dart frogs are numerous, as are snakes, although these are difficult to spot. Several of Selva Verde’s 500 species of butterflies can be seen in a netted butterfly garden.Guided canoe trips are offered on the Río Sarapiquí, which runs through Selva Verde. Naturalist guides can be hired, and maps are provided for the well-maintained trails.

The reserve also has a lodge offering comfortable rooms. Staff are happy to help guests arrange excursions to other local attractions; the nearest, only a 10- to 15-min drive away, is a fun tractor-trailer tour of an organic pineapple plantation, where you can also see how peppercorns are grown, harvested, and dried.

Experience Northern Zone

Poison-Dart Frogs

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The rainforests of Central and South America are inhabited by poison-dart frogs, so named because their poison was used to tip arrows and blow-darts. About 65 species exist, although only three are deadly to humans (none found in Costa Rica). The frogs, no more than 2.4 inches (6 cm) long, produce the bitter toxin in their mucous glands and advertise this with flamboyant colors – mostly vivid reds, greens, and blues – to avoid being eaten by predators. Thus, unusually for frogs, they are active by day among the moist leaf litter. Several species of non-toxic frogs mimic their coloration. In captivity, poison-dart frogs tend to lose their toxicity, which they derive from their principal diet of ants and termites.

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Rainforest Aerial Tram

Hwy 32, 30 miles (48 km) NE of San José @ From San José to Guápiles # 7:30am–2pm daily rainforestadventure.com

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t Spotting wildlife high in the forest canopy on the Rainforest Aerial Tram

Offering an alternative view of the forest canopy, this automated exploration system was conceived by American naturalist Dr. Donald Perry while he was involved in scientific investigation at Rara Avis. Inaugurated in 1994, the Rainforest Aerial Tram, also called “El Teleférico,” is the highlight of a 1.5-sq-mile (3.5-sq-km) private nature reserve on the eastern edge of the Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo. Visitors ride in open gondolas that silently skim the floor of the rainforest and then soar above the trees on a 90-minute, 2-mile (3-km) circuit. A naturalist guide accompanies each gondola to assist visitors in spotting and identifying wildlife. Howler and white-faced monkeys are occasionally seen at close quarters, as are iguanas, sloths, and snakes. While the views are fabulous, and the photo opportunities come thick and fast, visitors should keep in mind that the main aim of the journey is to learn about rainforest ecology.

Trails lead to the Río Corinto, and guided birding sorties, and frog and butterfly exhibits, are offered. Accommodation are in the form of cabins. Tour agencies nationwide offer package excursions.

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INSIDER TIP

Bird’s-Eye View

Early morning and late afternoon are the best times to spot wildlife on the Rainforest Aerial Tram. There’s a 7:30am departure that’s too early for the tour buses bringing visitors from San José, but perfect if you’re staying locally.

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Heliconia Island

5 miles (8 km) S of Puerto Viejo @ From San José to Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí via PN Braulio Carrillo # 8am–5pm daily heliconiaisland.com

This beautifully laid-out garden on the banks of the Río Puerto Viejo was created in 1992 by American naturalist Tim Ryan. Hundreds of tropical plant species grow amid lush lawns. The garden specializes in heliconias, of which it has more than 80 species from around the world. Various species of ginger thrive here, plus a superb collection of bamboos and orchids. Equally impressive are the palms, which include the Madagascan traveler’s palm, so named because in an emergency, travelers can drink the water that is stored in its stalk. More than 200 species of birds are drawn to the exotic flora. Hummingbirds hover about vibrant flowers as they sip nectar, while violaceous trogons and orange-chinned parakeets compete to be heard, and rare green macaws nest in almendro (almond) trees.

Knowledgeable tour guides impart fascinating facts on tropical plant ecology. The torchlit nighttime tours are especially rewarding. The river has calm stretches safe for swimming, and the island has a restaurant, plus B&B rooms.

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t A violet sabrewing hummingbird sipping nectar on Heliconia Island

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Rara Avis

17 miles (27 km) S of Puerto Viejo @ From San José to Las Horquetas rara-avis.com

This world-famous rainforest reserve was among the first private reserves in Costa Rica. Adjoining the Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo and La Selva, the diminutive 4-sq-mile (10-sq-km) Rara Avis is quietly perched on the remote northeast slopes of the extinct Volcán Cacho Negro, at an elevation of 2,300 ft (700 m).

The brainchild of entrepreneur Amos Bien, who created it in 1983, Rara Avis pioneered the notion of generating income through ecologically sustainable ventures in protected primary forests. Its selective farming projects include a butterfly farm, and philodendron and orchid cultivation.

Trails wander through pristine mid-elevation rainforest. The biodiversity is impressive; the eagle-eyed may spot everything from spider monkeys to boa constrictors. Elusive jaguars and pumas stalk silently through the undergrowth, while as many as 400 species of birds create a cacophony of sound, among them the umbrella bird, sunbitterns, and the endangered great green macaw. The park has several waterfalls; caution is recommended when swimming in the pools at their base.

This is not a destination for a casual day trip: the journey to get here is lengthy and quite challenging. Rara Avis is accessed by a daunting track, often knee-deep in mud. Transfers from Las Horquetas, on Highway 4, are by tractor-drawn canopied trailer, a bumpy 9-mile (14-km) journey that can take over two hours, followed by a one-hour hike to the lodge. Come prepared for heavy rainfall, which averages more than 200 inches (500 cm) per year, making rubber boots a must for hikers. Accommodation (two nights minimum) is in rustic lodges. Only the main office and dining room has electricity (pack a flashlight), but the jungle-backed rooms are clean and cosy, with private bathrooms and plenty of hot water.

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t Pristine wilderness at its most spectacular at the Rara Avis reserve

Experience Northern Zone

stay

Leaves & Lizards

Nature lodge with volcano views and an eclectic range of accommodation, including a treehouse.

Monterey de San Carlos leavesandlizards.com

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Celeste Mountain Lodge

Airy, stylish eco-friendly lodge on the slopes of Volcán Tenorio.

Bijagua celestemountainlodge.com

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Selva Verde

A much-liked family-friendly nature lodge, with a tremendous array of activities and programs.

Chilamata selvaverde.com

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