Experience More

5

Paarl

k Cape Town £ @ n 216 Main Rd; www.paarlonline.com

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t Orderly rows of vineyards, which crisscross the Paarl region

In 1687, farms were allocated to early Dutch colonists in the pretty Berg River Valley, which is flanked to the north by Paarl Mountain. The name Paarl comes from the Dutch peerlbergh (pearl mountain), given to the outcrops by early Dutch explorer Abraham Gabbema when he spotted the three smooth domes after a rain shower. Mica chips embedded in the granite glistened in the sun, giving it the appearance of a shiny pearl. The town of the same name was established in 1690.

Paarl is a major player in the industry of the Western Cape, but its many tree-lined streets and graceful gabled homes still lend it a certain country charm. The town’s Main Street makes a good starting point from which to explore. A number of well-preserved 18th- and 19th-century Cape Dutch and Georgian houses are found along both sides of Main Street, some of the later ones displaying marked Victorian architectural influences.

La Concorde, a stately Neo-Classical structure built in 1956, is the headquarters of the Kooperatiewe Wijnbouwers Vereeniging (KWV), the Cooperative Wine Farmers Association. The KWV, now privatized, was a controlling body that aimed to administer wine production, check quality and develop export markets.

Further along Main Street, the Paarl Museum presents historical aspects of the town. Exhibits include a collection of stinkwood chairs and a Dutch linen press. An excellent porcelain collection features VOC, Imari, Kang Hsi, and Canton pieces, and the kitchen is crammed with authentic utensils and furniture. Temporary displays on a variety of related themes, such as the Khoi, are arranged regularly.

Picturesque wine farms spread out to either side of the imposing Paarl Mountain. The region’s vineyards produce about one-fifth of South Africa’s total wine crop, and many offer wine tasting and sales most days. Certain farms arrange cellar tours by appointment only. Just off Paarl’s Main Road lies Laborie Estate, first granted to a Huguenot settler in 1688. In 1774 it was acquired by Hendrick Louw, who subsequently built the Cape Dutch homestead on it. Today, Laborie is best known for producing Méthode Cap Classique sparkling wines.

Opposite La Concorde is Jan Phillips Drive, an 11-km (7-mile) route to Paarl Mountain. The 500 million-year-old massif is the world’s second-largest granite outcrop, after Uluru in Australia, and can be climbed with the aid of handholds.

The entrance to the Paarl Mountain Nature Reserve also lies on Jan Phillips Drive. From here, visitors can gain access to the Afrikaans Language Monument (Afrikaanse Taalmonument). Designed by the architect Jan van Wyk, it was constructed around 1975, and is a tribute to the official recognition of the Afrikaans language 100 years earlier. The monument’s various elements acknowledge the linguistic influence and contribution of a different culture.

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t The soaring column of the Afrikaans Language Monument

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Paarl Museum

303 Main Rd § 021 872 2651 # 9am–4pm Mon–Fri, 9am–1pm Sat ¢ Good Fri, 25 Dec

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Laborie Estate

Taillefer St, off Main Rd # Tastings: 9am–5pm Mon–Sat; 11am–5pm Sun ¢ 1 Jan, 25 Dec laboriewines.co.za

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Afrikaans Language Monument

Signposted from Main St # Hours vary, check website taalmuseum.co.za

Did You Know?

Paarl’s 12-km (7.5-mile) Main Street is the longest main road in South Africa.

EXPERIENCE The Cape Winelands and West Coast

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PAARL VINEYARDS

Rhebokskloof Estate

rhebokskloof.co.za
Named after the rhebok antelope that once lived in its valleys.

Fairview

fairview.co.za
Delicious goat’s milk cheeses from the estate’s Saanen goats are sold here.

Rupert & Rothschild Vignerons

rupert-rothschildvignerons.com
Combines French and local wine-making on the historic Huguenot farm of Fredericksburg.

Avondale

avondalewine.co.za
A top-quality organic producer, whose wines are allowed to develop naturally as possible.

Nederburg

nederburg.com
Famous for its annual Wine Auction.

6

Robertson

n Cnr Voortrekker & Reitz sts; www.robertsontourism.co.za

Established as a town in 1852, Robertson lies in the Breede River Valley, where sunny slopes create perfect conditions for vineyards and orchards. As well as wine and grapes, dried fruit is a major industry here. The Robertson Wine Route – a section of the renowned Route 62 – comprises more than 50 cellars, many of which are acclaimed for their choice Chardonnays. The Robertson Klipdrift Distillery is a popular stop at which to taste this iconic South African brandy and tour the distillery. The restaurant here also serves breakfast and lunch.

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Robertson Klipdrift Distillery

4 Voortrekker Rd # Oct–Apr: 8am–5pm Mon–Fri, 9am–4pm Sat, 10am–3pm Sun ¢ 1 Jan, Good Fri, 25 Dec klipdrift.co.za

7

Worcester

£ Worcester Station n 13 Mountain Mill Dr; www.worcestertourism.com

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t A candlemaker using traditional methods at the fascinating Worcester Museum

This city, named after the Marquis of Worcester, brother of one-time Cape governor Lord Charles Somerset, lies some 110 km (68 miles) east of Cape Town. It is the biggest centre in the Breede River Valley and the largest producer of table grapes in South Africa. Its wineries produce a substantial amount of wine too, and Worcester is known for everyday affordable reds, whites and fortified wines. Twelve estates on the Worcester Wine and Olive Route are open for tastings and cellar tours, most in the Breede River Valley.

The attraction of a trip to Worcester is the drive through the Du Toitskloof Pass, which climbs to a height of 823 m (2,700 ft). Construction of the Huguenot Tunnel in 1988 shortened the pass by 11 km (7 miles), but the route still affords scenic views of Paarl and the Berg River Valley. At Church Square in Worcester, there is a Garden of Remembrance designed by Hugo Naude; the World War I Memorial; and a stone cairn erected at the time of the symbolic Ossewa (ox wagon) Trek of 1938, undertaken to commemorate the Great Trek of the 19th century. Worcester’s Dutch Reformed Church was built in 1832. Its imposing Gothic-style steeple was added in 1927 after the original blew away in gales.

The open-air Worcester Museum is a re-creation of an early Cape farm, complete with a shepherd’s hut, horse mill, labourer’s cottage and harness room. Visitors can watch bread being baked outdoors, a traditional blacksmith at work and seasonal activities such as brandy distillation.

The Karoo Desert National Botanical Garden, a short drive north of Worcester, contains plants that thrive in a semi-desert environment. Jewel-bright mesembryanthemums are lovely in spring, while the unusual year-round species include the prehistoric welwitschias, and the halfmens (half-human) and quiver trees. One area features plants grouped by regional and climatic zones. The succulent plant collection, the largest in Africa, is ranked by the Organization for Succulent Plant Study as one of the most authentic of its kind in the world. There is also a trail with Braille text signs.

Worcester Museum

Robertson Rd # 8am–4:30pm Mon–Fri, 8am–1pm Sat ¢ Good Fri, 25 Dec, 1 Jan worcestermuseum.org.za

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Karoo Desert National Botanical Garden

Roux Rd # 7am–7pm daily sanbi.org

EXPERIENCE The Cape Winelands and West Coast

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Insider Tip

Boesmanskloof Hiking Trail

This five-hour trail just south of Robertson follows a gap through the Riviersonderend mountains. The views are impressive, and the Oakes Falls, near Greyton, are ideal for swimming.

8

Montagu

n 24 Bath St; www.montagu-ashton.info

The charm of Montagu lies in its many houses dating back to the early 1850s. In Long Street alone there are 14 national monuments. But the area’s best known feature is the thermal springs 2 km (1 mile) from town, with a temperature of 43° C/109° F.

The scenery of the northern edge of the Langeberg range has led to the establishment of trails for hikers, mountain bikers and 4WD enthusiasts. The route to Montagu from Robertson passes through a 16-m- (52-ft-) long tunnel, above which stands the ruined Sidney Fort built by the British during the South African War.

EXPERIENCE The Cape Winelands and West Coast

PINOTAGE WINE-MAKING

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Pinotage is a unique South African cultivar developed in 1925 by Stellenbosch University professor Abraham Perold, from a cross of Pinot Noir and Cinsaut (then called Hermitage). The world’s first commercially bottled Pinotage was released in 1961 under the Lanzerac label, and the fruity wine has since then achieved much international acclaim.

9

Tulbagh

n 4 Church St; www.tulbaghtourism.co.za

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t Whitewashed buildings from the 18th and 19th centuries along Church Street in Tulbagh

In 1700, Governor Willem Adriaan van der Stel initiated a new settlement in the Breede River Valley, naming it Tulbagh after his predecessor. It is South Africa’s fourth-oldest town.

Encircled by the Witzenberg and Winterhoek mountains, in 1969 the town was hit by an earthquake measuring 6.3 on the Richter scale. Eight people died and many historic buildings were badly damaged. The disaster resulted in a five-year restoration project undertaken along Church Street, which is lined with no less than 32 18th- and 19th-century Victorian and Cape Dutch homes. The oldest building, Oude Kerk (old church) Volksmuseum, dates back to 1743 and contains the original pulpit, pews and Bible. De Oude Herberg, Tulbagh’s first boarding house (1885), is now a guesthouse and restaurant.

10

Bloubergstrand

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t Dramatic views of Table Mountain, as seen from Bloubergstrand

Literally “Blue Mountain Beach”, Bloubergstrand owes its name to the peerless views it offers to majestic Table Mountain, 10 km (6 miles) to the southwest across Table Bay. Weather permitting, the iconic mountain’s unmistakeable flat-topped profile is seen at its very best advantage from the beach, making Bloubergstrand one of the most photographed spots anywhere in the vicinity of Cape Town. Even without the draw of the mountain views, though, Bloubergstrand would be a superb beach. Wide and sandy for the most part, there are enough rocky protrusions to keep it visually interesting. As with South Africa’s other Atlantic beaches, the beach can be rather exposed in windy weather and the water is somewhat icy, but it remains a firm favourite with walkers and watersports enthusiasts.

EXPERIENCE The Cape Winelands and West Coast

OPEN-AIR SEAFOOD FEASTS

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Along the West Coast, there are a wide variety of open-air eating places known as skerms (Afrikaans for “shelters”). Reed roofs provide shade and mussel shells are used as utensils, but the major appeal is the abundance of fresh seafood on offer: smoked angelfish, snoek, spicy mussel stews, thin slices of perlemoen (abalone) and calamari.

11

Paternoster

n Seeduiker St; 022 752 2323

One of the West Coast’s oldest and most characterful villages, Paternoster is a cluster of traditional fishermen’s cottages whose name reputedly refers to the Lord’s Prayer, recited by shipwrecked Portuguese sailors in the 17th century. It is the gateway to the small but scenic Cape Columbine Nature Reserve, which protects a wild coastline that bursts into spectacular bloom come August. Attractions include excellent sea kayaking, a wide variety of birds and South Africa’s only manually operated lighthouse.

Cape Columbine Nature Reserve

St Augustine Rd § 022 752 2718 # 7am–7pm daily

12

Malmesbury

£ Bokomo Rd n 3 Church St; www.malmesburytourism.co.za

Malmesbury, the heart of South Africa’s wheatland, lies in the Swartland (black country), a term that has at times been attributed to the region’s soil, and at other times to its renosterbush, a local shrub that turns a dark hue in winter. The wheatfields, with their velvety shoots rippling in the breeze or cropped furrows with bales piled high, are a lovely sight.

Wine is also produced in the region. The Swartland Wine and Olive Route features 24 estates and coops that are open for tastings and sales around the Riebeek Valley, Malmesbury, Piketberg and Porterville.

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Swartland Wine and Olive Route

Cnr Voortrekker & Church sts # Mon–Sat swartlandwineandolives.co.za

13

Saldhana

n Van Riebeeck St; 022 715 1142

The largest town on the West Coast stands on the northern shore of Saldanha Bay, which is the country’s deepest harbour and effectively forms the mouth of West Coast National Park’s Langebaan Lagoon. Named after one of the Portuguese captains who sailed to South Africa with Albuquerque’s fleet in 1503, Saldanha is a down-to-earth spot whose economy is dominated by commercial fishing, a modern harbour built primarily to export iron ore mined in the Northern Cape, and an important naval base. It’s also a great site for watersports. The Saldanha Nature Reserve, run through by four walking and cycling trails, is best visited in spring, when it hosts magnificent wildflower displays and offers good land-based whale-watching opportunities.

14

Darling

n Pastorie St; www.hellodarling.org.za

Darling is surrounded by a farming region of wheatfields, vineyards, sheep and dairy cattle, but is best-known for its spring flower show.

The town also lays claim to satirist Pieter-Dirk Uys, who has gained fame for his portrayal of his female alter ego, Evita Bezuidenhout, fictitious ambassadress of Baphetikosweti. His bar, Evita se Perron (Evita’s platform), is situated on a defunct railway platform and attracts crowds to hear hilarious, razor-sharp analyses of local politics.

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t A sculpture outside the popular Evita se Perron comedy venue in Darling

Evita se Perron

8 Arcadia St evita.co.za

EXPERIENCE The Cape Winelands and West Coast

STAY

Bushman’s Kloof

A first-rate resort in a private reserve rich in endemic wildlife and rock art. Features luxurious rooms and a world-class spa.

Agert Palhuis Paa, Clanwilliam bushmanskloof.co.za

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Saldanha Bay Protea Hotel

This comfortable harbourfront hotel is well located for exploring West Coast National Park.

15B Main Rd, Saldanha www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/cptsb-protea-hotel-saldanha-bay/

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Paternoster Dunes Boutique Guest House

A friendly guesthouse with a superb oceanfront setting.

18 Sonkwas, Paternoster paternosterdunes.co.za

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Lambert’s Bay Hotel

An unpretentious, well-priced hotel in a conveniently located spot.

72 Voortrekker St, Lambert’s Bay lambertsbayhotel.co.za

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15

Clanwilliam

Clanwilliam is the headquarters of the rooibos (red bush) tea industry. The shoots of the wild shrub are used to make a caffeine-free tea that is low in tannin and also considered to have medicinal properties.

Clanwilliam Dam, encircled by the Cederberg Mountains, stretches for 18 km (11 miles) and is popular with water-skiers. Wooden holiday cabins line the banks, and a pleasant campsite has been established right at the water’s edge.

16

Citrusdal

n 32 Voortrekker St; www.citrusdal.info

Frost-free winters and the Olifants River Irrigation Scheme have made Citrusdal South Africa’s third-largest citrus district. The first orchard was planted with seedlings from Van Riebeeck’s garden at the foot of Table Mountain. One tree, after bearing fruit for some 250 years, is now a national monument. The Goede Hoop Citrus Co-operative has initiated scenic mountain bike trails around Citrusdal, such as the old Ceres and Piekenierskloof passes, and there are also several hiking trails situated close to town.

17

Lambert’s Bay

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t The clamouring gannet colony at Lambert’s Bay Bird Island Nature Reserve

This little fishing town, an hour’s drive west of Clanwilliam on the R364, was named after Rear Admiral Sir Robert Lambert, a senior Royal Navy officer who monitored the marine survey of this section of coastline. For visitors, the main attraction is Lambert’s Bay Bird Island Nature Reserve, about 100 m (328 ft) offshore. It is accessible via a breakwater-cum-harbour wall. The island is a breeding ground for thousands of African penguins, Cape cormorants and the striking Cape gannet with its yellow-painted face. There is a small museum, and a viewing tower allows visitors to remain unobtrusive while observing the birds’ behaviour. It is the world’s only gannet breeding ground easily accessible to the public.

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Lambert’s Bay Bird Island Nature Reserve

# 7:30am–6pm daily capenature.co.za

18

Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve

Extending across an area of 7,500 ha (18,500 acres) over the northeastern foothills of the Cederberg, Bushman’s Kloof is a multiple award-winning wilderness reserve centred on a sumptuous five-star spa resort. Explorable on foot or by canoe, mountain bike or open 4WD, the ruggedly scenic reserve protects more than 750 fynbos, forest and Karoo plants as well as 150 bird species including the striking black harrier. Other wildlife includes the endemic bontebok, red hartebeest and Cape mountain zebra, along with leopard, bat-eared fox, Cape fox, African wild cat, caracal and aardwolf. More than 100 prehistoric rock art sites are exclusively accessible to overnight guests, the most spectacular being the beautifully preserved Elephant Hunt Panel.

EXPERIENCE The Cape Winelands and West Coast

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UNMISSABLE CEDERBERG SPOTS

The Maltese Cross

This unusual rock formation consists partly of Table Mountain sandstone.

Wolfberg Arch

The Cederberg’s most unique formation makes a natural frame – a favourite with photographers.

Wolfberg Cracks

Hike here to be greeted by stunning views.

19

Cederberg

n Cape Nature office, Algeria; www.capenature.co.za

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t The spectacular Cederberg rock formations

The Cederberg range is a surreal wilderness of sandstone peaks that have been eroded over the millennia into jagged formations. It is reached from the north via Pakhuis Pass and the Biedouw Valley, 50 km (31 miles) from Clanwilliam; from the south, it can be accessed via the N7 from Citrusdal.

The range is part of the Cederberg Wilderness Area, which was proclaimed in 1973 and covers 710 sq km (274 sq miles). Its main attraction is its recreational appeal – walks, hikes, camping and wonderful views (anyone wishing to hike or stay in the area will require a permit). The southern part, in particular, is popular for its dramatic rock formations, inlcuding the Maltese Cross and the Wolfberg Arch. The snow protea (Protea cryophila), endemic to the upper reaches of the range, occurs on the Sneeuberg which, at 2,028 m (6,654 ft), is the highest peak. The Clanwilliam cedar, after which the area was named, is an endemic species that is protected in the Cederberg Wilderness Area – some 8,000 trees are planted annually to ensure its survival.

At the southern end of the Cederberg is the Kagga Kamma Private Nature Reserve, where visitors can go on game drives, view San rock art and take part in activities such as bird-watching and stargazing. Accommodation is in thatched chalets, unique cave rooms and a campsite. Pre-booked day visitors are welcome.

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t The Incredible Cederberg rock formations often tackled by expert climbers

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Kagga Kamma Private Nature Reserve

Southern Cederberg # Daily kaggakamma.co.za

EXPERIENCE The Cape Winelands and West Coast

ROCK FORMATIONS OF THE CEDERBERG

During the Palaeozoic pre-Karoo period several hundred million years ago, the formations that later became the Cape Folded Mountains were under water. Of the elements comprising these Cape formations, Table Mountain sandstone was the most resilient. In the Karoo Period, tectonic forces produced the rumpled Cape mountains. Subsequent erosion wore away the soft rock, leaving the harder layer and resulting in the Cederberg’s twisted landscape.

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