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In a region where population densities are high and sugar cane plantations and coastal resorts have replaced most of the natural vegetation, this impressive ravine carved by the Umzimkulwana River is a delight for nature lovers.

There is a scenic circular drive, as well as walking trails with many beautiful picnic spots along the river and at viewpoints overlooking the waterfalls in the gorge.

Small, forest-dwelling animals such as bushbuck, duiker and samango monkey occur in the dense forest while the cliffs provide nesting sites for birds of prey.

Port Edward, situated on the Umtamvuna River, is the southernmost beachside resort in KwaZulu-Natal. It is popular for swimming, fishing and boating. Established in 1925, the resort was named in honour of the Prince of Wales, later King Edward VIII. A casino resort, the Wild Coast Sun, was built here in 1981 to lure visitors from Durban and the South Coast. Today, it overlooks an unspoiled coastline covered in dense forest and grassland, and offers one of the country’s top golf courses.

The Mzamba Village Market opposite the resort’s main entrance sells a varied range of local crafts.

Protecting a 30-km (19-mile) stretch of the Umtamvuna River as it flows through a deep forested gorge on the Eastern Cape border, this scenic reserve can be explored through a network of steep but well-marked walking trails, ranging in duration from three to eight hours. Large mammals such as bushbuck, chacma baboon, samango monkey and even leopard are present but mostly seldom seen. The mountainous scenery, dense subtropical forest, wealth of native plants and tranquil atmosphere, however, more than compensate. Birdlife in the area includes African finfoot, Knysna loerie, gorgeous bush-shrike and Gurney's sugarbird. Sadly, the reserve’s much-touted breeding colony of endangered Cape vulture has abandoned its cliffside roost for reasons that are unclear.

Named after the prominent colonial administrator Sir Theophilus Shepstone, the largest town on the KwaZulu-Natal South Coast was founded in 1867 to exploit the plentiful white granite deposits at the mouth of the Umzimkulu River. It has a pivotal location at the junction of the N2 and the coastal R61, but tourism development is focused 3 km (2 miles) further south at the fast-growing resort town of Shelly Beach. Offering great swimming conditions, this popular beach – actually a sandy strand, but named for the many shells that wash ashore here – has several tidal pools and lagoons for snorkelling and diving.

Self-proclaimed tourist capital of the South Coast, Margate comprises a broad expanse of golden sand hemmed in by well-tended, palm-shaded lawns and overlooked by a row of multi-storey hotels and holiday apartments.

Seaside activities include paddling pools, a freshwater swimming pool, water slides, mini-golf and there are plenty of amenities such as restaurants, ice-cream parlours and tackle shops. Designated surfing and boogie-boarding areas are on Main Beach and at Lucien Point. For a change of pace, try the two-hour walking trail through the diverse habitats of the Uvongo River Nature Reserve, home to a rich variety of birdlife.

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Just before it empties into the sea, the iVungu River plunges down a 23-m (75-ft) waterfall into a lagoon. High cliffs, overgrown with wild bananas, protect the sheltered lagoon with its spit of sandy beach separating the river from the ocean. It is a popular swimming spot, and pedal boats can be hired to explore the upper reaches of the river.

There are also walking trails in the River Valley Nature Reserve, which falls on both sides of the river. A two-hour circular walk winds through beautiful coastal forest full of a wide variety of indigenous plants and plentiful birdlife.

experience KwaZulu-Natal

An almost continuous carpet of sugar cane plantations lines this stretch of the South Coast, and the town of Scottburgh was once used as a harbour for exporting the crop. Today, the compact little town has a distinct holiday atmosphere, and is a popular beach resort. It occupies the prominent headland overlooking the mouth of the Mpambanyoni River, and most of the hotels and holiday apartments offer superb sea views.

In the 19th century, a spring used to cascade from the bank above the river, but today a large water slide occupies the site. A restaurant, shops, a miniature railway and tidal pool are added attractions. Further south, a caravan park adjoins the beach and there is also a popular golf course, with a prime site overlooking the Indian Ocean surf.

It is claimed that Amanzimtoti derives its name from a remark made by Shaka Zulu. In the 1820s, returning home from a campaign further down the South Coast, Shaka drank from a refreshing stream and is said to have exclaimed, “amanzi umtoti” (the water is sweet). Today, Amanzimtoti is a lively coastal resort. Its warm-water beaches are lined with hotels, holiday apartments, take-away outlets, restaurants and vibrant beachwear shops.

The area’s most popular beach extends for 3 km (2 miles) north of the Manzimtoti River and offers safe bathing, picnic sites and a fine salt-water pool.

The N2 passes within 400 m (400 yrds) of the coast, providing easy access to the town’s other attractions. These include a small bird sanctuary, a nature reserve and two fine golf courses in the vicinity of the beach.

Now a suburb of Durban, modern development lines the ridge above Umhlanga and includes shopping malls and business parks. But the town retains its atmosphere as the premier holiday resort on the North Coast and has excellent beaches, timeshare resorts, hotels and restaurants. The promenade, which extends for 3 km (2 miles), provides stunning views of the golden sands that have made Umhlanga famous. A local landmark is the red-and-white Umhlanga Lighthouse, located in front of the Oyster Box hotel.

Further north, at the mouth of the Ohlanga River, forested dunes form part of a nature reserve. A boardwalk crosses the river and the forest teems with blue duiker, birds and acrobatic monkeys.

Ballito and the neighbouring Salt Rock extend for 6 km (4 miles) along a coast known for its beaches, rocky headlands and sheltered tidal pools. Lining the main coastal road are many good restaurants. Accommodation ranges from luxury holiday apartments and timeshare resorts to family hotels and attractive caravan parks.

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For the 1984 TV series Shaka Zulu, several authentic 19th-century Zulu kraals were constructed. They were destroyed when filming finished, but that of Shaka’s father was spared and opened to the public as Shakaland.

The unique Zulu village is open for day visits, and also offers overnight accommodation at the Shakaland Hotel. A video explaining the origin of the Zulu people is shown, and guests enjoy Zulu fare, followed by a traditional dancing display.

On a tour of the 40-hut village, visitors are introduced to a variety of traditional skills such as hut-building, spear-making, beer-brewing, artistic beadwork and pottery.

Framed by thorn trees and aloes, Goedertrou Dam in the valley below is an attractive body of water. The sunset river boat cruises are an added attraction. In the hills east of Shakaland, and commanding a superb view over the wide Mhlatuze Valley, is the site of Shaka’s famed military stronghold, KwaBulawayo. Construction of this historic facility began in 1823, but today almost nothing remains of the citadel that once held so much of southern Africa in its grasp.

Perched at an altitude of 520 m (1700 ft), Eshowe is an attractive small town whose misty midland climate feels especially invigorating after the sticky coast. The oldest town in Zululand, Eshowe has a significant place in the region’s history. It was the birthplace of King Cetshwayo c 1825, and served as a British military and administrative outpost in the aftermath of the 1879 Anglo-Zulu War.

Bordering the town centre, the 3-sq-km (1-sq-mile) Dlinza Forest Reserve protects a stand of mist-belt forest inhabited by the diminutive blue duiker and 90 bird species, notably crowned eagle, trumpeter hornbill, and the globally threatened spotted ground-thrush. An aerial boardwalk through the forest terminates at a 20-m- (66-ft-) high tower, which offers views to the Indian Ocean. Fort Nongqai, built by the British in a forest clearing in 1883, now houses the Vukani Museum’s peerless collection of Zulu ethnographic artifacts, as well as an outdoor dome showcasing some of the 85 butterfly species occurring in Dlinza.

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Vukani Museum

⌂ 7 Nonggai Rd § 035 474 5274 # 7:30am–4pm Mon–Fri, 10am–4pm Sat, Sun & public hols

The underrated Umlalazi Nature Reserve packs a huge amount of biodiversity into its 10 sq km (4 sq miles). A short circular walking trail leads through South Africa’s most accessible mangrove swamp, home to mudskippers, hermit crabs and the gorgeous mangrove kingfisher.

A second walk leads through the dune forest to a wide, sandy beach and reveals glimpses of fish eagles and kingfishers. Shy forest animals such as vervet monkeys, red duiker and bushbuck can often be spotted.

The reserve is entered through the pretty hillside village of Mtunzini, whose name means “in the shade”. Its streets are lined with coral trees and in winter their red flowers add splashes of colour to the townscape. Mtunzini is well-known for its grove of raffia palms;the nearest other known group of these scarce plants is on the Mozambique border, 260 km (163 miles) north. The palms have been designated a National Moniment, and can be seen with the swamp forest from a raised boardwalk. The rare palm-nut vulture, a fruit-eating raptor, may also be spotted here.

experience KwaZulu-Natal

experience KwaZulu-Natal

experience KwaZulu-Natal

From the unhurried village of Louwsburg on the R69, a tarred road descends an escarpment to the wilderness of Ithala, a 296-sq-km (114-sq-mile) tract of grassland with dramatic mountain scenery and densely wooded valleys.

The reserve was established in 1972 from previous farmland and since then it has been stocked with large species of game and has reverted back to its natural state. The Pongolo River flows along the northern boundary for some 37 km (23 miles). Seven tributaries have carved the deep valleys that dissect this park and enhance its scenic splendour. The Ngoje escarpment rises dramatically to 1,446 m (4,700 ft), providing a striking backdrop.

A tarred road also leads from the entrance to the prestigious Ntshondwe Camp. Its 67 chalets have been carefully nestled between boulders and wild fig trees. The central complex contains a reception area, restaurant, store and coffee shop, and offers panoramic views over the entire reserve. In front of the building an extensive wooden platform overlooks a reed-fringed waterhole, and is perfect for bird-watching. As no fences surround the camp, animals such as warthog often wander between the chalets. A path leads to a swimming pool tucked into a clearing at the base of the mountain.

Lavish Ntshondwe Lodge is a three-bedroomed hilltop cabin. The far-reaching vista from its deck and sunken swimming pool is arguably Ithala’s finest.

Game-viewing at Ithala is excellent. Visitors will see white rhino, hartebeest, kudu, giraffe, eland, impala, wildebeest, warthog and zebra, as well as the only population in KwaZulu-Natal of the rare tsessebe antelope. Elephant, buffalo, leopard and black rhino are also present, but are more difficult to locate.

Ngubhu Loop is the best drive in the park. Another route winds down the thickly wooded Dakaneni Valley to the Pongolo River. Although game is not as plentiful here as on the higher grasslands, the scenery is spectacular.

Extending over 170 sq km (65 sq miles) of bushveld, wetland, savannah and sand forest, the privately owned Phinda is sandwiched between the iSimangaliso Wetland Park and uMkhuze Game Reserve. It was established by &Beyond in 1991, a company that aims to create sustainable conservation through responsible luxury tourism. Similar wildlife to that seen at uMkhuze can be spotted, such as nyala, kudu, wildebeest, giraffe, zebra, elephant, lion, white rhino and cheetah. Activities on offer include sunset cruises on the Mzinene River and outdoor dining, as well as game-viewing drives, bush walks and fishing or diving expeditions. There are six lodges, each with its own unique atmosphere and bush or wetland views. The reserve can arrange air and road transfers.

This large wilderness reserve bordering Mozambique protects the flood plain of the Pongolo River. It was established in 1983 to conserve the elephants that migrate between the two countries. The park also has South Africa’s largest population of suni antelopes and 430 species of birds. There is a tented camp near the entrance, and two hides overlook areas where elephants come to drink. Additionally, ten groups of day visitors are permitted (in 4WD vehicles only).

West of Tembe, the Ndumo Game Reserve is famous for its rich riverine life, especially waterbirds. The Nyamithi and Banzi pans also sustain populations of hippo, crocodile and white and black rhino.

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Ndumo Game Reserve

§ 035 591 0098 # Apr–Sep: 6am–6pm daily; Oct–Mar: 5am–7pm daily

experience KwaZulu-Natal

The undulating hills of the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands, with their green patches of forest and their dairy farms, have long been a retreat favoured by artists and craftspeople. In 1985, six studios established an arts and crafts route as a means of boosting tourism: the Midlands Meander. The trail quickly gained popularity and now consists of around 400 members and studios.

There are five routes that meander between the small towns of Hilton, Nottingham Road, Howick and Mooi River. Locally crafted goods available to purchase along the route include herbs, cheese, wine, pottery, woven cloth, stained glass and antiques.

The symbol of the Midlands Meander seen on road signs marking the routes is the endangered Karkloof blue butterfly, indigenous to this region of KwaZulu-Natal.

Accommodation along the way includes idyllic country hotels, tranquil guest farms, picturesque lodges and cosy bed and breakfast establishments. There are also many quaint country pubs.

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Since its humble establishment by Afrikaner farmers in 1836, Pietermaritzburg (part of the Msunduzi municipality) has developed into the commercial, industrial and administrative centre of the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands. An intriguing blend of Victorian, Indian, African and modern architecture and culture combine to produce a distinctly South African city. Many historical and cultural buildings and monuments are located around the city centre and in the western suburbs. In Church Street, a statue of Ghandi recalls the occasion in 1893 when the future Mahatma – then a 23-year old lawyer – was forced off a first-class train carriage here because he wasn’t white.

Visitors can ramble through the surrounding forests and botanic gardens, and visit several nature reserves and recreation resorts located within the city or a few minutes’ drive away.

Established in 1850, the agreeable town of Howick overlooks an eponymous waterfall known to the local Zulu as KwaNogqaza (‘Tall One”). The bordering Midmar Dam Nature Reserve is popular as a venue for water sports enthusiasts and fishermen.

North of Howick, the Nelson Mandela Capture Site marks the spot where its namesake was arrested by security police, on 5 August 1962, with a striking sculpture of Mandela’s face. A visitor centre and exhibition opened in 2019.

Further afield, Karkloof Nature Reserve protects a mist-belt forest inhabited by samango monkey, an endemic dwarf chameleon species and a wealth of birds. It can be explored via a scenic walking trail or along zip-lines on the Karkloof Canopy Tour.

Nelson Mandela Capture Site

∑ thecapturesite.co.za

This picturesque dam nestles at the foot of the 1,466-m- (4,810-ft-) high Spioenkop, which in 1900 was the scene of a decisive battle between the British and Boer forces in the South African War. The battlefield site is accessible from the road, and countless graves and memorials are scattered across the peak’s summit as a grim reminder of one of Britain’s worst defeats during that conflict.

Today, Spioenkop is popular with outdoor enthusiasts. The dam offers fishing and boating, while zebra, giraffe, wildebeest, red hartebeest and oribi can be seen in the surrounding nature reserve, along with a variety of bird species. There is also a pleasant campsite, and picnic sites are situated along the southern shoreline. Two short trails encourage visitors to view game on foot.

experience KwaZulu-Natal