Experience More

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Vall d’Aran

Lleida @ Vielha n Carrer Sarriulèra 10, Vielha; www.visitvaldaran.com

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t Vall d’Aran nestled on the hillside, surrounded by snowcapped mountains

This Valley of Valleys – aran means “valley” – is a beautiful haven of forests and flower-filled meadows, surrounded by towering mountain peaks.

The Vall d’Aran was formed by the Riu Garona, which rises in the area and flows out to France. With no proper link to the outside world until 1924, when a road was built over the Bonaigua Pass, the valley was cut off from the rest of Spain for most of the winter. Snow still blocks the narrow pass from November to April, but today access is easy through the Túnel de Vielha from El Pont de Suert.

The fact that the Vall d’Aran faces north means that it has a climate similar to that found on the Atlantic coast. Abundant rare wild flowers and butterflies flourish in the perfect conditions that are created by the damp breezes and shady slopes. It is also a noted habitat for many species of white and yellow narcissus. Several tiny villages have grown up beside the Riu Garona, often around Romanesque churches, notably at Bossòst, Salardú, Escunhau and Arties. The valley is also ideal for skiing and is popular with walkers.

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Vielha

Lleida @ n Carrer Sarriulèra 10; 973 64 01 10

The capital of the Vall d’Aran is located on the banks of the Riu Garona and preserves relics of its medieval past. The Romanesque church of Sant Miquel has an octagonal bell tower, a tall, pointed roof and a superb wooden 12th-century crucifix, the Mig Aran Christ. It once formed part of a larger carving, since lost, which represented the Descent from the Cross. The Musèu dera Val d’Aran is a museum devoted to Aranese history and folklore.

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Musèu dera Val d’Aran

Carrer Major 26 # Summer: 10am–1pm & 5–8pm daily; winter: 10am–1pm & 5–8pm Tue–Sat, 10am–1pm Sun ¢ Public hols visitmuseum.gencat.cat/en/museu-dera-val-d-aran

Did You Know?

Baqueira-Beret is a favourite holiday destination of the Spanish royal family.

Butterflies of the Vall d’Aran

A massive variety of butterflies and moths is found high in the mountains and valleys of the Pyrenees. In particular, the isolated Vall d’Aran is the home of several unique and rare subspecies, such as the grizzled skipper (prygus malvae), clouded apollo (parnassius mnemosyne) and chequered skipper (carterocephalus palaemon). The best time of year to see the butterflies is between May and July.

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Baqueira-Beret

Lleida @ n www.baqueira.es

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t Skiers tackling the slopes at the ski resort of Baqueira-Beret in the Spanish Pyrenees

This ski resort is one of Spain’s best and most popular. There is reliable winter snow cover and a choice of over 100 pistes at altitudes from 1,520 m to 2,470 m (4,987 ft to 8,104 ft).

Baqueira and Beret were once separate mountain villages before skiing became popular, but they now form a single resort. The Romans took full advantage of the thermal springs located here; nowadays the springs are also very much appreciated by tired skiers looking to relax after a day on the slopes.

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Vall de Boí

Lleida £ La Pobla de Segur @ Pont de Suert n Passeig Sant Feliu 43, Barruera; www.vallboi.cat

This small valley on the edge of the Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes is dotted with tiny villages, many of which are built around Catalan Romanesque churches.

Dating from the 11th and 12th centuries, these churches are distinguished by their tall belfries, such as the Església de Santa Eulàlia at Erill-la-Vall, which has six floors.

The two churches at Taüll, Sant Climent and Santa Maria contain wonderful frescoes. Between 1919 and 1923 the originals were taken from the churches to Barcelona’s Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya for safekeeping and replicas now stand in their place. It is possible to climb the towers of Sant Climent for superb views of the surrounding countryside.

Other churches in the area worth visiting include those at Coll, for its fine ironwork, Barruera and Durro, which has another massive bell tower.

At the head of the valley is the hamlet of Caldes de Boí, which is popular for its thermal springs, and the nearby ski station, Boí-Taüll, the highest ski resort in the Pyrenees. It is also a good base for exploring the Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes, the entrance to which is only 5 km (3 miles) from here.

EXPERIENCE Catalonia

Stay

Hotel El Ciervo

Right in the centre of Vielha, this homely hotel offers unpretentious luxury. Close to the Baqueira-Beret ski resort, it’s the perfect place to relax after an exhausting day on the slopes.

Plaza de San Orencio 3, Vielha hotelelciervo.net

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Hostal Sa Rascassa

If big hotels aren’t your thing, choose this Costa Brava boutique for a rural Spanish stay. Book early to nab one of the five twin rooms above the elegant restaurant.

Cala d’Aiguafreda 3, Begur hostalsarascassa.com

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Hotel Costabella

With its excellent transport links and proximity to main roads, this hotel is a good base for exploring Catalonia. Its modern rooms are comple—mented by a steaming sauna and outdoor pool.

Avinguda de França 61, Girona hotelcostabella.com

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Puigcerdà

Girona £ @ n Plaça Santa Maria; www.puigcerda.cat

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t The heart of Puigcerdà town, with views out over the Cerdanya Valley

Located practically on the French border, Puigcerdà was founded in 1177 by Alfonso II as the capital of Cerdanya, which shares a past and its culture with the neighbouring French region of Cerdagne. The only Spanish settlement that can claim to be closer to France is Llívia, a Spanish enclave that lies 6 km (4 miles) inside the border.

Puig is Catalan for “hill” and Puigcerdà buzzes with skiers in the winter season and hikers in summer. Although the town sits on a relatively small hill compared with the encircling mountains, which rise to 2,900 m (9,500 ft), it nevertheless has a fine view right down the beautiful Cerdanya Valley, watered by the trout-filled Riu Segre. This is the largest valley in the Pyrenees. At its edge is the nature reserve of Cadí-Moixeró, which has a population of alpine choughs.

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Insider Tip

Open Andorra’s Box

La Seu d’Urgell is only 10 km (6 miles) from the Andorran border. Take a trip to this tiny principality to shop – it's tax-free – or discover its rural charms. Don't forget your passport.

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La Seu d’Urgell

Lleida @ n Carrer Major 8; 973 35 15 11

This ancient Pyrenean town was made a bishopric by the Visigoths in the 6th century. Feuds between the bishops of Urgell and the Counts of Foix over land ownership led to the emergence of Andorra in the 13th century. The 12th-century cathedral has an admired Romanesque statue of Santa Maria d’Urgell. The Museu Diocesà contains medieval art and manuscripts, including a 10th-century copy of St Beatus of Liébana’s Commentary on the Apocalypse.

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Museu Diocesà

Plaça del Deganat # Hours vary, check website ¢ Public hols visitmuseum.gencat.cat/en/museu-diocesa-d-urgell

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Sant Joan de les Abadesses

Girona @ n Plaça de l’Abadía 9; www.santjoandelesabadesses.cat

A fine 12th-century Gothic bridge arches over the Riu Ter to this unassuming market town, whose main attraction is its monastery.

Founded in AD 885, it was a gift from Guifré, the first count of Barcelona, to his daughter, the first abbess. The church is unadorned except for a superb wooden calvary, The Descent from the Cross, dating from 1150. Part of this scene, a thief, was burned in the Civil War and replaced with such skill that it is hard to tell which is new. The monastery’s museum has Baroque and Renaissance altarpieces.

To the north is Camprodon, a small town full of grand houses, and shops selling embutits (charcuterie).

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Ripoll

Girona £ @ n Plaça Abat Oliba; www.ripoll.cat/turisme

Once a tiny mountain base from which raids against the Moors were made, Ripoll is now best known for the Monestir de Santa Maria, built in AD 888. The town has been called “the cradle of Catalonia”, as the monastery was both the power base of Guifré el Pélos (Wilfred the Hairy), founder of the 500-year dynasty of the House of Barcelona. He is buried here.

In the late 12th century, the huge west portal gained a series of intricate carvings, which are perhaps the finest Romanesque carvings in Spain. They depict historical and biblical scenes.

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Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes

Lleida £ La Pobla de Segur @ Pont de Suert, La Pobla de Segur n Carrer de les Graieres 2, Boí, 973 69 61 89; Carrer Sant Maurici 5, Espot, 973 62 40 36; parcsnaturals.gencat.cat/en/aiguestortes

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t The rugged terrain of the Parc Nacional d'AigÜestortes

The pristine mountain scenery of Catalonia’s only national park is among the most dramatic seen in the Pyrenees.

Established in 1955, the park covers an area of 102 sq km (40 sq miles). The main access towns are Espot, to the east, and Caldes de Boí, to the west. Dotted around the park are waterfalls and the clear waters of around 150 lakes. The finest scenery is around Sant Maurici lake, which lies beneath the twin shards of the Serra dels Encantats (Mountains of the Enchanted). From here, there is a variety of walks, particularly along the string of lakes that lead north to the towering peaks of Agulles d’Amitges. To the south is the dramatic vista of Estany Negre, the highest and deepest tarn in the park.

Early summer in the lower valleys is marked by a mass of pink and red rhododendrons, while later in the year wild lilies bloom in the forests. The park is also home to a variety of wildlife. Chamois live on mountain screes and in the meadows, beavers and otters can be seen by the lakes, while bearded vultures nest on mountain ledges.

The Catalan Language

Catalan has recovered from the ban it suffered under Franco’s dictatorship and has supplanted Castilian (Spanish) as the language in everyday use in Catalonia. Spoken by more than 9.5 million people, it is a Romance language akin to the Provençal of France. Previously it was suppressed by Felipe V in 1717 and only officially resurfaced in the 19th century, when the Jocs Florals (medieval poetry contests) were revived during the rebirth of Catalan literature.

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Olot

Girona @ n Carrer Francesc Fàbregas 6; www.turismeolot.com

This small market town is at the centre of a landscape pockmarked with the conical hills of extinct volcanoes. But it was an earthquake in 1474 which last disturbed the town, destroying its medieval past.

During the 18th century, the town’s textile industry spawned the “Olot School” of art: cotton fabrics were printed with drawings of rural life and the agricultural landscape surrounding town. See examples in the Museu Comarcal de la Garrotxa, which is housed in an 18th-century hospice. The town’s other star attraction is the Museu dels Sants. Here, you can see skillful statues of saints and carefully crafted Biblical scenes, before watching craftsmen in the workshop. The museum also offers an insight into the historical significance of creating religious icons.

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Museu Comarcal de la Garrotxa

Carrer de l’Hospici 8 # 10am–1pm & 3–6pm Mon–Fri, 11am–2pm & 4–7pm Sat, 11am–2pm Sun museus.olot.cat

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Museu dels Sants

Carrer de Joaquim Vayreda 9 # 10am–1pm & 3–6pm Tue–Fri, 11am–2pm & 4–7pm Sat, 11am–2pm Sun museus.olot.cat

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t A beautiful sculpture of a winged saint in Olot’s Museu dels Sants

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Figueres

Girona £ @ n Plaça de l’Escorxador 2; www.visitfigueres.cat

Figueres is in the north of the Empordà (Ampurdán) region, the fertile plain that sweeps inland from the Gulf of Roses. As you would expect from these fruitful surroundings, every Thursday, the market here fills with fruit and vegetables from the area.

The Museu del Joguet (Toy Museum) is housed on the top floor of the old Hotel de Paris, on the Rambla, Figueres’ main street. Inside are exhibits from all over Catalonia. At the lower end of the Rambla is a statue of Narcís Monturiol i Estarriol (1819–85), claimed to be the inventor of the submarine.

A much better known local is Salvador Dalí, who founded the Teatre-Museu Dalí in 1974. The most visited museum in Spain after Madrid’s Museo del Prado, the galleries occupy Figueres’ old main theatre. Its roof has an eye-catching glass dome. Inside, works by Dalí are displayed alongside other artists. Look out for Rainy Taxi – a Cadillac being sprayed by a fountain.

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Museu del Joguet

Carrer Sant Pere 1 # 10am–6:30pm Tue–Fri, 10:30am–7:30pm Sat, 10am–2:30pm Sun mjc.cat

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Teatre-Museu Dalí

Plaça Gala-Salvador Dalí # Hours vary, check website ¢ 1 Jan, 25 Dec salvador-dali.org

The Art of Dalí

Born in Figueres in 1904, Salvador Dalí mounted his first exhibition at the age of 15. After studying at the Escuela de Bellas Artes in Madrid, and dabbling with Cubism, Futurism and Metaphysical painting, Dalí embraced Surrealism in 1929, becoming the movement’s best-known painter. Never far from controversy, Dalí became famous for his hallucinatory images, which he described as “hand-painted dream photographs”. He died in Figueres in 1989.

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Cardona

Barcelona @ n Avinguda Rastrillo; www.cardonaturisme.cat

Sited on a hill, surrounded by the Riu Cardener, the town of Cardona is best known for its Montanya de Sal (Salt Mountain), a huge salt deposit, which has been mined since Roman times. This almost translucent material has been crafted into statues and crucifixes by Cardona’s artists for centuries.

For the best views of the Montanya de Sal, and the town itself, head up to the Castell de Cardona. The 13th-century castle of the dukes of Cardona, constables to the crown of Aragón, is set on the top of a hill. Rebuilt in the 18th century, it is now a parador. Beside the castle is an early 11th-century church, the Església de Sant Vicenç, where the dukes are buried.

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Castell de Cardona

Lloc Parador Nacional Turisme 506 # By guided tour only, check website for details cardonaturisme.cat

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Besalú

Girona @ n Carrer del Pont 1; www.besalu.cat

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t The medieval town of Besalú on the banks of the Riu Fluvià

A magnificent medieval town, with a striking approach across a fortified bridge over the Riu Fluvià, Besalú has two fine churches. These are the Romanesque Sant Vicenç and Sant Pere, the sole remnants of Besalú’s Benedictine monastery, founded in AD 948.

In 1964 a mikvah, a ritual Jewish bath, was discovered. It was built in 1264 and is one of only three of that period to survive in Europe.

After exploring the town, head 14 km (8 miles) south to the sky-blue lake of Banyoles for a scenic picnic.

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Tossa de Mar

Girona @ n Avinguda Pelegrí 25; www.infotossa.com

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t The medieval walled Vila Vella of Tossa de Mar, overlooking the bay

The Roman town of Turissa is one of the prettiest along the Costa Brava. Above the New Town is the Vila Vella (Old Town), a protected national monument. In the Old Town, the Museu Municipal has a collection of local archaeological finds and modern art.

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Museu Municipal

Plaça Pintor Roig i Soler 1 # May–Sep: 10:30am–6:30pm Mon–Sat, 10:30am–1:30pm Sun; Oct–Apr: 10:30am–5:30pm Tue–Sat, 10:30am–1:30pm Sun visitmuseum.gencat.cat

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Cadaqués

Girona @ n Carrer Cotxe 1; www.visitcadaques.org

Sitting at the tip of the remote Cap de Creus headland, this whitewashed town is simply enchanting. Stroll through the Old Town and note the slate pavements, which are best preserved on Carrer des Call. Within these twisting streets is the Museu de Cadaqués, which has temporary exhibitions about the town’s history and its visual arts.

In the 1960s, Cadaqués was dubbed the “St Tropez of Spain”, because of the young crowd that sought out Salvador Dalí in nearby Portlligat. The house where he lived from 1930 until his death in 1989 is known as the Casa-Museu Salvador Dalí. Here, you can see the painter’s workshop, library and swimming pool.

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Museu de Cadaqués

Carrer d’en Narcís Monturiol 15 § 972 25 88 77 # Hours vary, call ahead

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Casa-Museu Salvador Dalí

Portlligat # Advanced booking is required to visit, email [email protected]; Hours vary, check website ¢ 1 Jan, mid-Jan–mid-Feb, 3 Jun, 7 Oct, 25 Dec salvador-dali.org

Did You Know?

“Peratallada” means “cut stone”, and the village is known for its stone architecture.

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Peratallada

Girona n Plaça del Castell 3; www.forallac.cat

This tiny village is stunning and only a short inland trip from the Costa Brava. With Pals and Palau Sator it forms part of the “Golden Triangle” of medieval villages.

Its mountaintop position gives some dramatic views of the area. A labyrinth of cobbled streets winds up to the well-conserved castle and lookout tower, whose written records date from the 11th century. Both counts and kings made doubly sure of fending off any attackers by constructing a sturdy wall, enclosing the entire village, which even today limits the nucleus from further expansion, ensuring it retains its medieval character.

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Empúries

Girona @ L’Escala # From 10am; closing time varies with season, check website mac.cat

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t Remains of a gated Roman wall at the ruins of Empúries

The ruins of this Greco-Roman town are dramatically located overlooking the sea. Three settlements were built here between the 6th and 3rd centuries BC: the old town (Palaiapolis); the new town (Neapolis); and the Roman town. The old town was founded by the Greeks in 600 BC as a trading port. It was built on what was a small island, and is now the site of the hamlet of Sant Martí de Empúries. In 550 BC, this was replaced by a town on the shore which the Greeks named Emporion, meaning “trading place”. In 218 BC, the Romans landed at Empúries and built a city next to the new town.

A nearby museum exhibits some of the site’s finds, but the best examples are displayed in Barcelona’s Museu Arqueològic.

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Vic

Barcelona £ @ n Plaça del Pes; www.victurisme.cat

Coincide a visit to this rural town with market day (Tuesday, Saturday and Sunday), when the local sausages (embotits) are piled high in the Plaça Major, along with other produce from the surrounding plains.

In the 3rd century BC Vic was the capital of an ancient Iberian tribe, the Ausetans. The town was then colonized by the Romans – the remains of a Roman temple survive today. Since the 6th century AD, the town has been a bishop’s see. In the 11th century, Abbot Oliba commissioned the El Cloquer tower, around which the cathedral was built in the 18th century. The interior of the cathedral is covered with vast murals by Josep Maria Sert (1874–1945). They are painted in reds and golds, and represent scenes from the Bible.

Adjacent to the cathedral is the Museu Episcopal de Vic, which has one of the best collections of Romanesque artifacts in Catalonia. Its large display of mainly religious art and relics includes bright, simple murals and wooden sculptures from rural churches.

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Museu Episcopal de Vic

Plaça Bisbe Oliba 3 # 10am–7pm Tue–Sat, 10am–2pm Sun ¢ 1 & 6 Jan, Easter Sun, 25 & 26 Dec www.museuepiscopalvic.com

EXPERIENCE Catalonia

Eat

El Raco del Mar

Close to the beach, this restaurant has a varied seafood menu, with vegetarian and vegan options. It’s popular so reserving a table is recommended.

Passeig Marítim, Empuriabrava elracodelmar.com

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Portal 22

Open kitchens at this chic tapas bar let you see the chefs at work as they prepare classic Spanish dishes.

Plaça del Portal Nou 22, Valls (Alt Camp) ¢ Sun dinner portal22.cat

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Compartir

At trio of Catalonia’s top chefs serve up highly imaginative dishes such as sardines marinated in orange and mint.

Riera Sant Vicenç s/n, Cadaqués compartircadaques.com

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Lleida

Lleida £ @ n Carrer Major 31 bis; www.lleidaturisme.cat

Dominating Lleida (Lérida), the capital of Catalonia’s only landlocked province, is La Suda, a large fort taken from the Moors in 1149. Within its walls is the old cathedral, La Seu Vella, founded in 1203, which was transformed into barracks by Felipe V in 1707 but still retains its beautiful cloisters and Gothic rose window. After years of neglect, the fort complex was restored and now offers panoramic viewpoints.

A lift descends from the Seu Vella to the Plaça de Sant Joan in the town below. This square is at the midpoint of a busy street sweeping round the foot of the hill. A pedestrianized walk takes visitors past many interesting shops, set in some of Lleida’s most striking buildings. The new cathedral, La Seu Nova, is here, as are manorial buildings such as the 13th-century town hall.

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t The shaded cloisters of Lleida’s old cathedral, La Seu Vella

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Montblanc

Tarragona £ @ n Muralla de Santa Tecia 54; www.montblancmedieval.cat

The medieval grandeur of this town lives on within its walls, said to be Catalonia’s finest piece of military architecture. At the Sant Jordi gate, St George allegedly slew the dragon. The Museu Comarcal de la Conca de Barberà has displays on local crafts.

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Museu Comarcal de la Conca de Barberà

Carrer Josa 6 # Summer: 10am–2pm & 4–7pm Tue–Sat, 10am–2pm Sun; winter: 10am–2pm Tue–Fri & Sun, 10am–2pm & 4–7pm Sat concadebarbera.info

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Solsona

Lleida @ n Carretera de Bassella 1; www.solsonaturisme.com

Nine towers and three gateways remain of Solsona’s fortifications. Inside the walls is an ancient town of noble mansions. The beautiful cathedral is notable for its black stone Virgin. The Museu Diocesà i Comarcal contains Romanesque paintings and archaeological finds.

Museu Diocesà i Comarcal

Plaça Palau 1 # 15 Dec–15 Mar: 11am–5pm Fri & Sat, 11am–2pm Sun; 16 Mar–14 Dec: 11am–6:30pm Wed–Sat, 11am–2pm Sun ¢ 1 & 6 Jan, 25 & 26 Dec museusolsona.cat

EXPERIENCE Catalonia

Top5Things-icon

Cava Vineyards

Codorníu

A bus from Barcelona travels to this old winery in Sant Sadurní d’Anoia (www.visitascodorniu.com).

Freixenet

The world’s largest exporter of Cava offers guided tours (www.freixenet.es).

Gramona

A boutique wine cellar dating back to 1850 (www.gramona.com).

Raventós i Blanc

This winery has made Cava since the 1870s (www.raventos.com).

Alta Alella

A vineyard overlooking the Mediterranean (www.altaalella.wine).

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Vilafranca del Penedès

Barcelona £ @ n Carrer Hermenegild Clascar 2; www.turismevilafranca.com

This busy market town is set in Catalonia’s main wine-producing region. The Vinseum (Wine Museum), in a 14th-century palace, documents the history of the area’s wine trade. Local bodegas can be visited for wine tasting.

A must-visit for wine lovers, 8 km (5 miles) to the north is Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, the capital of Spain’s sparkling wine, cava. Many of the wineries have tasting rooms in the town centre, and others offer tours of their vineyards.

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Vinseum

Plaça Jaume I # 10am–7pm Tue–Sat, 10am–2pm Sun & public hols vinseum.cat

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Sitges

Barcelona £ @ n Plaça Eduard Maristany 2; www.sitgestur.cat

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t The sun setting over Sitges

There are no less than nine beaches to choose from at this seaside town. Lively bars and restaurants line its main boulevard, the Passeig Marítim, and there are many examples of Modernista architecture among the 1970s apartment blocks. Modernista artist Santiago Rusiñol (1861–1931) spent much time here and bequeathed his quirky collection of ceramics, sculptures, painting and ornate ironwork to the Museu Cau Ferrat. The museum lies next to Sitges’ landmark, the 17th-century church of Sant Bartomeu i Santa Tecla, which juts out proudly on a promontory.

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Museu Cau Ferrat

Carrer Fonollar § 938 94 03 64 # 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (to 7pm Oct & Mar–Jun; to 8pm Jul–Sep)

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t Home to the Museu Cau Ferrat

EXPERIENCE Catalonia

Drink

Casablanca Cocktail Bar & Art Lounge

Tucked away on a quaint street, as soon as you walk in to this bar you’ll feel like a regular. Good selection of cocktails.

Carrer d’en Pau Barrabeig 5, Sitges § 938 94 70 82


La Isla del Mojito

This Cuban bar serves great cocktails. Intoxicating salsa music draws a crowd to the dance floor.

Passeig Marítim Rafael Casanova, Port Esportiu, Tarragona § 603 78703

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Tortosa

Tarragona n Rambla Felip Pedrell 3; www.tortosaturisme.cat

A ruined castle and medieval walls are clues to Tortosa’s historical importance. Sited at the lowest crossing point on the Riu Ebre (Ebro River), it has been strategically significant since Iberian times.

The Moors held the city from the 8th century until 1148. The old Moorish castle, known as La Zuda, is all that remains of their defences. It has been renovated as a parador. The Moors also built a mosque in AD 914. Its foundations were used for the Gothic cathedral, on which work began in 1347.

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Costa Daurada

Tarragona £ @ Calafell, Sant Vicenç de Calders, Salou n Rambla Felip Pedrell 3, Tarragona; www.costadaurada.info

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t A twisting roller coaster towering over Port Aventura’s other attractions

The long, sandy beaches of the Costa Daurada (Golden Coast) run along the shores of Tarragona province. Cambrils and Salou are the liveliest resorts – the rest are low-key, family holiday spots. The costa is home to many attractions. The Museu Pau Casals in Sant Salvador (El Vendrell) is dedicated to the famous cellist. PortAventura is one of Europe’s largest theme parks and has many exotically themed attractions, such as Polynesia and Wild West.

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Museu Pau Casals

Avinguda Palfuriana 67 # Hours vary, check website paucasals.org

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PortAventura

Avinguda de l’Alcalde Pere Molas, km 2, Vila-seca # Hours vary, check website portaventuraworld.com

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Delta de l’Ebre

Tarragona £ Aldea @ Deltebre, Aldea n Carrer Sant Miquel 1, Deltebre; www.turismedeltebre.com

The delta of the Riu Ebre is a prosperous rice-growing region and wildlife haven. Some 70 sq km (27 sq miles) have been turned into a nature reserve, the Parc Natural del Delta de l’Ebre. In Deltebre there is an information centre and an interesting Eco-Museu, with an aquarium containing species found in the delta.

The main towns in the area are Amposta and Sant Carles de la Ràpita, both of which serve as good bases for exploring the reserve.

The best sites for seeing wildlife are along the shore, from the Punta del Fangar in the north to the Punta de la Banya in the south. Everywhere is accessible by car except Illa de Buda. Flamingos and other waterbirds, such as avocets, breed on this island. Take a tour of the Illa de Buda on one of the tourist boats that depart from Riumar or Deltebre to see these critters.

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Eco-Museu

Carrer Doctor Martí Buera 22 § 977 48 96 79 # 10am–1pm & 3–6pm daily (winter: to 5pm) ¢ 1 & 6 Jan, 25 & 26 Dec

EXPERIENCE Catalonia

Shop

Jimoneca

Head here for a fresh horchata (a drink made with tiger nuts, almonds or rice) or an artisan ice cream.

11 de Setembre 87, Palamós jijonenca.es


Ceràmica Planas Marquès

Beautiful ceramics, made in the on-site workshop, are sold here.

Av Costa Brava 34, Corçà ceramicaplanasmarques.com

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Tarragona

Tarragona ~ £ @ n Carrer Major 39; www.tarragonaturisme.cat

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t The preserved remains of the Roman amphitheatre at Tarragona

The Romans used Tarragona, now a big industrial port, as a base for the conquest of the peninsula in the 3rd century BC. The Rambla Nova ends on the clifftop Balcó de Europa, in sight of the ruins of the Amfiteatre Romà. Nearby is the Praetorium, a Roman tower converted into a palace in medieval times. It now houses the Pretori i Circ Romans, which displays Roman and medieval finds, and gives access to the cavernous passageways of the Roman circus, built in the 1st century AD. Next door is the Museu Nacional Arqueològic de Tarragona, which has an extensive collection of bronze tools and beautiful mosaics, including a Head of Medusa.

An archaeological walk runs along the Roman wall. Behind the wall lies the 12th-century cathedral, built on the site of a Roman temple. This evolved over many centuries, as seen from the blend of styles of the exterior. Inside is an alabaster altarpiece of St Tecla, carved by Pere Joan in 1434.

To the west of town is a 3rd- to 6th-century Christian cemetery, the Necròpolis Paleocristiana i Conjunt Paleocristià del Francolí.

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Pretori i Circ Romans

Plaça del Rei § 977 22 17 36 # Apr–May & Sep: 9am–9pm Tue–Sat, 9am–3pm Sun; Jun–Aug: 9am–3pm Mon & Sun, 9am–9pm Tue–Sat; Oct–Mar: 9am–7:30pm Tue–Fri, 9am–7pm Sat, 9am–3pm Sun

"

Museu Nacional Arqueològic de Tarragona

Plaça del Rei 5 ¢ Closed for renovation until 2023 mnat.cat

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Insider Tip

That’s the Ticket

If visiting Tarragona’s many Roman venues, it’s best to buy a joint ticket. It lets you visit the Roman wall, Pretori i Circ Romans, forum and Amfiteatre Romà any time you want over a year-long period.

EXPERIENCE Catalonia

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Catalan Festes

Human Towers

Tarragona province is known for its castelleres festivals, where teams of men stand on each other’s shoulders.

Dance of Death

Men dressed as skeletons dance in Verges, near Girona, on Maundy Thursday.

Sant Jordi

Lovers exchange a rose and a book on 23 April to honour Catalonia’s patron saint and the day he died in 1616.

La Patum

Giants, devils and bizarre monsters parade through Berga for Corpus Christi.

Midsummer’s Eve

Bonfires and fireworks illuminate Catalonia on 23 June.

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