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In the last three chapters, I introduced you to the layout and general functions of the menu system, with specifics on how to customize your camera with the Shooting, Autofocus, and Playback menus. In this chapter, you’ll learn how to work with the Set-up menu. If you’re jumping directly to this chapter and need some guidance in how to navigate the menu system, review the first few pages of Chapter 11. Otherwise, you’re welcome to dive right in.
There are five amber-coded Set-up menu screens where you adjust how your camera behaves during your shooting session, as differentiated from the Shooting menu, which adjusts how the pictures are taken. Your choices include:
Set-up 1
Set-up 2
Set-up 3
Set-up 4
Set-up 5 (R6 Only)
Set-up 5 (R5 Only)
Set-up 6 (R5 Only)
Options: Record Stills/Movies Separately; Stills Recording Options; Movie Recording Options; Stills Record/Play; Movie Record/Play; Folder Options
My preference: N/A
This is the first entry in the Set-up 1 menu (see Figure 14.1). The EOS R5 and R6 give you (sometimes) a bewildering number of options for specifying which card and folder your still photographs and movie clips are stored on. You can store still photos on one card and movies on another, automatically switch between them, give priority to one card over another, and change the default folder naming scheme. I’ll explain each of your options, shown at left in Figure 14.2, one at a time.
Figure 14.1 The Set-up 1 menu.
Your choices for this sub-entry are Enable and Disable. If you select Enable, then storage and playback is strictly segregated: movies will always be stored on Card 1 and still photos will always be stored on Card 2. Indeed, if a designated card is full or a slot has no card, then that type of file cannot be captured. If you press the Playback button while in still photo mode, the camera will display only the images on Card 2 (and no movies), while in movie mode, Playback will consist only of movie files.
Figure 14.2 Record Functions+Card/Folder Sel. (left); Stills Recording Options (upper right); Movie Recording Options (lower right).
This option is a good choice for making sure your still and movie files stay separate. The downside is that you don’t have any overflow or backup features. If a card fills up, the camera won’t switch to the other card, and you can’t record a backup copy of each file on the alternate media. If you use this option, you may want to use your fastest memory card in Slot 1, particularly if you shoot 4K or 8K video. And for high-speed continuous shooting, you’ll want to make sure you have a fast card in Slot 2.
When this sub-entry is enabled, the two Recording options and Record/Play options (described shortly) are unavailable.
This setting determines how still photos are handled. There are four possibilities:
This option is quite flexible. For example, you could specify JPEG for Card 1 and RAW for Card 2 in order to keep them separate. If you’d rather have two identical copies, you can select JPEG twice (or RAW twice). If you wanted a full-resolution RAW or JPEG file and a more compact S1 or S2 version (say, for low-bandwidth sending by email), you could do that, too.
Figure 14.3 Specify different Image Quality settings for each memory card (left); choose card slot (center); select format and resolution (right).
This setting determines how movie clips are handled. There are just two possibilities for the R6 and three for the R5:
By default, stills are recorded on Card 1 and movies are written to Card 2. You can change these designations and assign a priority if you like. This setting allows you to determine which card is used to record stills, and assign a priority using the INFO button. (See Figure 14.4.) Here are your possibilities:
Figure 14.4 Select destination and priority.
Choose this menu option to create a folder where the images and video you capture will be stored on your memory card, or to switch between existing folders. By default, folders are given a three-digit number followed by five letters (CANON). A folder can contain up to 9999 images. When full, a new folder is created automatically. Folder numbers from 100 to 999 can be created. You can also create folders on a properly formatted memory card within the main DCIM folder. Just follow these steps:
With a little imagination (and caution, to avoid creating “bad” folder names), you can develop some useful folder names, and switch among them at will. I find this capability especially useful when working with very large cards, because I can do a great deal of organizing right on the card itself. Perhaps I have some images in a particular folder that I use as a “slide show” for display on my camera’s LCD screen. Or, I might want to sort images by location or date. For example, I could use 104_USA_, 105SPAIN, 106FRANC, or 107GBRIT to indicate the location where the images were shot. Note that two folders cannot share the same three-digit number, even if the remaining five characters are different.
Figure 14.5 Choose a folder or create a new one.
Options: Numbering: Continuous (default), Automatic Reset; Manual Reset
My recommendation: Continuous
A file number will be automatically applied to each picture you take, using consecutive numbering for all your photos over a long period, spanning many different memory cards, starting over from scratch when you insert a new card, or when you manually reset the numbers. Numbers are applied from 0001 to 9999, at which time the camera creates a new folder on the card (100, 101, 102, and so forth), so you can have 0001 to 9999 in folder 100, then numbering will start over in folder 101.
The camera keeps track of the last number used in its internal memory. That can lead to a few quirks you should be aware of. For example, if you insert a memory card that had been used with a different camera, numbering may start with the next number after the highest number used by the previous camera. (I once had a brand-new Canon camera start numbering files in the 8,000 range.) I’ll explain how this can happen next.
On the surface, the numbering system seems simple enough: In the menu, you can choose Continuous, Automatic Reset, or Manual Reset. Here is how each works:
Options: Change User Setting 1, Change User Setting 2
My recommendation: N/A
Like other cameras in the Canon product line, the R5 and R6 automatically apply a file name with a four-digit alphanumeric string, followed by the four-digit image number, such as BE3B0001.jpg, BE3B001.hif, or BE3B0001.cr3 to your image files as they are created. The first four characters are set at the factory and are unique to your camera. However, you can also create two personal User Settings, numbered 1 (with four characters of your choice) and 2 (with three). You can use this menu option to change the names applied to your photos—but only within certain strict limitations. In practice, you can change only four of the eight characters, the BE3B (or your camera’s counterpart) portion of the file name, using rules and industry conventions, such as those set by the Design Rule for Camera File System (DCF) specification.
DCF limits file names created by conforming digital cameras to a maximum of eight characters, plus a three-character extension (such as .jpg, .hif, or .cr3) that represents the format of the file. The eight-plus-three (usually called 8.3) length limitation dates back to an evil and frustrating computer operating system that we older photographers would like to forget (its initials are D.O.S.), but which, unhappily, lives on as the wraith of a file-naming convention.
Of the eight available characters, four are used to represent, in a general sense, the type of camera used to create the image. Canon defaults to your factory-set initial four characters. The remaining four are used for numbers from 0000 to 9999, which is why your numbering “rolls over” to aaaa4000 again when the 9999 number limitation is reached. When the camera rolls off the factory assembly line, it is configured to provide a choice of three different file-naming schemes:
To change the two User Settings from their defaults, navigate to the File Name screen, as shown at left in Figure 14.6. Then, follow these steps:
Figure 14.6 Left: Customize and choose your file naming scheme. Right: Enter text here.
Once you’ve defined your naming alternatives to your satisfaction, you can switch among them at any time during a shooting session. Just access the File Name screen from the Set-up 1 menu, highlight File Name at the top of the screen, and press SET. You can then choose the factory preset code, User Setting 1, or User Setting 2, as shown in Figure 14.6. Renaming a user setting is so easy that I sometimes do it on the fly during a shoot. If you don’t need to differentiate between different cameras or models, you can change the characters to anything else that suits your purposes, including your initials (DDB_ or JFK_, for example) or even customize for a particular shooting session (EUR, GER, FRA, and JAP when taking vacation trips). You can also use the file name flexibility to partially overcome the 9999 numbering limitation. You could, for example, use the template EO1 to represent the first 10,000 pictures you take, and then EO2 for the next 10,000, and EO3 for the 10,000 after that.
That’s assuming you don’t rename your image files in your computer. In a way, file naming verges on a moot consideration, because it applies only to the images as they exist in your camera. After (or during) transfer to your computer you can change the names to anything you want, completely disregarding the 8.3 limitations (although it’s a good idea to retain the default extensions). If you shot an image file named IMG_4832.jpg in your camera, you could change it to Paris_EiffelTower_32.jpg later. Indeed, virtually all photo-transfer programs, including Photoshop Elements Transfer, allow you to specify a template and rename your photos as they are moved or copied to your computer from your camera or memory card.
I usually don’t go to that bother (I generally don’t use transfer software; I just drag and drop images from my memory card to folders I have set up), but renaming can be useful for those willing to take the time to do it.
Options: Format Card, Low Level Format
My recommendation: N/A
Use this item to erase everything on your memory card and set up a fresh file system ready for use. When you select Format Card, a display appears allowing you to choose Card 1 or Card 2. When you’ve specified your card, the screen shown in Figure 14.7 pops up, displaying the capacity of the card, how much of that space is currently in use, and two choices at the bottom of the screen to Cancel or OK (proceed with the format). Press the Trash button if you’d like to do a low-level format. That’s a more basic format that removes all sectors from the card and creates new ones, which can help speed up a card that seems to be slow (because the camera must skip over “bad” sectors left behind from previous uses). An orange bar appears on the screen to show the progress of the formatting step.
Figure 14.7 Formatting a memory card.
Options: On: Camera, Computer (default); On: Computer Only; Off
My recommendation: Camera, Computer
You can turn this feature On or Off. When activated, pictures taken in vertical orientation are rotated on the display screen so you don’t have to turn the camera to view them comfortably. However, this orientation also means that the longest dimension of the image is shown using the shortest dimension of the display, so the picture is reduced in size. You have three options. The image can be auto-rotated when viewing in the camera and on your computer screen using your image-editing/viewing software (this choice is represented by a pair of camera/computer screen icons). The image can be marked to autorotate only when reviewing your image in your image editor or viewing software (just a computer screen icon is used). This option allows you to have rotation applied when using your computer, while retaining the ability to maximize the image on your display in the camera. The third choice is Off. The image will not be rotated when displayed in the camera or with your computer. Note that if you switch Auto Rotate off, any pictures shot while the feature is disabled will not be automatically rotated when you turn Auto Rotate back on; information embedded in the image file when the photo is taken is used to determine whether autorotation is applied.
Options: Enable, Disable (default)
My recommendation: Disable if you don’t transfer your video to smart devices often
Thanks to smartphones, movies aren’t all horizontal anymore. While video has traditionally been shot in landscape orientation, users of smart devices have been happily rotating their phones and tablets to record movies in both horizontal and vertical modes. This setting allows you to automatically add information to your video clips that indicate which side is up, so they can be played back in the same orientation on their devices. This setting does not apply to video played back on the camera or through an external monitor connected via an HDMI cable. EOS R5 owners should note that rotation information is not available for movies recorded in RAW or RAW+MP4.
Options: Date, Time, Zone, Daylight Savings
My recommendation: N/A
Use this option to set the date and time, which will be embedded in the image file along with exposure information and other data. As first outlined in Chapter 1, you can set the date and time by following these steps:
Options: 29 languages
My recommendation: N/A
This is the first entry on the Set-up 2 page. (See Figure 14.8.) Choose from 29 languages for menu display, rotating the Quick Control Dial 1 or using the Multi-controller joystick until the language you want to select is highlighted. Press the SET button to activate.
Figure 14.8 The Set-up 2 menu.
Options: For NTSC, For PAL
My recommendation: N/A
This setting controls the output through the HDMI cable when you’re displaying images on an external monitor. You can select either NTSC, used in the United States, Canada, Mexico, many Central, South American, and Caribbean countries, much of Asia, and other countries, or PAL, which is used in the UK, much of Europe, Africa, India, China, and parts of the Middle East.
Canon makes it quite easy to view your images on a high-definition television (HDTV). Purchase the optional HDMI Cable HTC-100 (or equivalent HDMI Micro C cable) and connect it to the HDMI OUT terminal just below the USB Type-C port on the left side of the camera.
Connect the other end to an HDMI input port on your television or monitor (my 42-inch HDTV has three of them; my 26-inch monitor has just two). Then turn on the camera and press the Playback button. The image will appear on the external TV/HDTV/monitor and will not be displayed on the camera’s LCD. Most HDTV systems automatically show your images at the appropriate resolution if you set HDMI Resolution to Auto using the Set-up 4 entry described later in this chapter.
Options: Small (default), Large
My recommendation: Large
When you first begin using your camera, you may find yourself pressing the INFO button when the INFO Help message is displayed below a menu. Pressing it will pop up a screen with information on how to choose options for that menu item. You won’t need this help after you’ve had your camera for a while, but as long as you avail yourself of this aid, you might as well have it displayed in large, clear text. You can press the up/down directional controls to scroll within the help text display.
Options: Enable (default), Touch Screen, Disable
My preference: Disable
An internal beeper provides a helpful chirp to signify various functions, such as the countdown of your camera’s self-timer, when an image is in focus, and during touch operations. You can switch it off entirely if you want to avoid the beep because it’s annoying, impolite, or distracting (at a concert or museum), or undesired for any other reason. In the Beep screen, choose Enable to activate, Disable to silence all beeps, or Touch To Silence (which silences the beep only during touch screen operations), as you prefer. Press SET to activate your choice and exit.
Options: 16 levels from 0 to 15 (default is 8)
My recommendation: N/A
You can change the volume of audio sent to headphones through the camera’s headphone port by rotating the QCD-2 or QCD-1, or using the Multi-controller joystick. There are 16 levels available from 0 to 15. You’ll find headphones particularly useful to check the sound quality being recorded by your camera’s built-in microphone or an external mic, when Sound Recording is enabled and High Frame Rate is disabled. Both are located in the Movie Shooting 1 menu.
Options: Display Off: Default, 1 min.; Auto Power Off: Default, 1 min.; Viewfinder Off: Default, 3 min.
My recommendation: Display: 3 min.; Auto Power Off: 5 min.; Viewfinder Off: 3 min.
This setting allows you to adjust how long your camera remains active before features are turned off to save power. As I noted with the Eco Mode explanation, intelligent power saving can be crucial with mirrorless cameras. This option is more useful and flexible than Eco Mode; you have three choices:
Options: On, Off (default)
My recommendation: Carry multiple batteries so you don’t have to worry about this
Your mirrorless camera is inherently more power hungry than traditional dSLRs you may have used. The sensor is energized any time you are using the viewfinder or LCD screen (rather than only when capturing a photo), and the EVF and LCD themselves suck up juice. Based on Canon’s own specifications, you may expect to shoot only 370 exposures or capture just 2 hours, 20 minutes of movies with a single fully charged battery.
When Eco Mode is enabled, the LCD screen (but not the viewfinder) darkens drastically if the camera is not used for approximately two seconds, and turns off completely after 10 seconds. To reactivate, tap the shutter release to gain yourself another 2/10 seconds of LCD viewing. While Eco Mode is a thoughtful feature on Canon’s part, in practice it can be a major inconvenience, especially if you are using the LCD to compose your image (say, the camera is mounted on a tripod). In such cases, you’d definitely want to make sure Eco Mode is turned off. Even better, you can turn Eco Mode off and leave it off for the rest of your life though the simple expedient of buying a reasonable number of batteries. Swapping power cells every few hours is preferable to losing your LCD image at a critical moment. I use this feature only when I am down to my last battery (due to unforeseen circumstances, or, stupidity) and want to squeeze every bit of juice I can out of my remaining LP-E6NH.
Options: Adjust viewfinder/LCD screen switching
My recommendation: N/A
This is the first entry in the Set-up 3 menu. (See Figure 14.9.) Canon has managed to fix an annoyance that has vexed many mirrorless camera owners—the tendency of the display to automatically switch from LCD screen to viewfinder at inopportune moments. The eye sensor located under the viewfinder window can activate the viewfinder when your face—or, unfortunately, anything else—approaches the eyepiece. If your camera is mounted on a tripod, just reaching for the MENU button can trigger the switch.
Figure 14.9 The Set-up 3 menu.
This setting has four useful modes:
Options: Adjust brightness of viewfinder and/or LCD screen
My recommendation: N/A
These next two entries function identically, to let you adjust the LCD screen and viewfinder, respectively. In general, you’ll find yourself tweaking the LCD screen more frequently, to make it more visible under bright illumination outdoors—or less visible indoors. At concerts, I tend to review my images using the electronic viewfinder; if I want to share images with a companion, I often dial down the brightness of the LCD screen to the minimum to avoid disturbing the other paying customers who might not be as interested in my results.
Use the example image and the gray patches shown (see Figure 14.10) to decide whether the brightness is satisfactory. The thumbnail shows the last image viewed during Playback, so you can actually “calibrate” your display for your current shooting environment. You want to be able to see both the lightest and darkest steps at top and bottom of the gray scale, and not lose any of the steps in the middle. Brighter settings use more battery power, but can allow you to view an image on the LCD outdoors in bright sunlight. When you have the brightness you want, press the SET button to lock it in and return to the menu.
Figure 14.10 Adjust electronic viewfinder and LCD screen brightness for easier viewing under varying ambient lighting conditions.
Options: 1: Warm tone, 2: Standard (default), 3: Cool tone 1, 4: Cool tone 2
My recommendation: 2: Standard
You can use this setting to adjust the approximate color balance of the viewfinder and LCD monitor to your taste. It works similarly to the Display Brightness entry: bring the camera up to your eye to adjust the viewfinder and look at the LCD screen to set its color tone. You’d use this option if you consistently find that your images are warmer or cooler than what you view, and want to have a (slightly) more accurate preview image. (Neither display will match your final image precisely, especially when you are shooting RAW, because the display shows a JPEG version regardless of the format you choose.)
To set the color, activate this entry, and the last image you played back will be displayed. You should use the ambient lighting conditions you want to standardize on. Then, highlight 1: Warm tone, 2: Standard, 3: Cool tone 1, or 4: Cool tone 2, and press SET.
Options: Blue/Amber, Green/Magenta adjustments
My recommendation: N/A
If you want to really tweak your viewfinder’s color tone, this entry allows you to adjust bias along the blue/amber and green/magenta axes, just as you can do with color balance settings (described in Chapter 11). As you evaluate the playback image through viewfinder, you can use the Multi-controller joystick to move the color balance zero point in all four directions. A grayscale is displayed at the bottom of the screen for reference. Press SET to confirm when you’re satisfied with the setting.
Options: Enable, Disable (default)
My recommendation: Disable
If you find you sometimes have trouble viewing menus under less than perfect viewing conditions with the standard user interface (UI), you can double the size of menu screens by enabling this option. Then, just double-tap the LCD screen to increase the size of the display, and double-tap again to return to the normal display. When the user interface is enlarged, other touch screen operations are disabled and you must use the camera controls to make your settings.
Options: Auto (default), 1080p
My recommendation: 1080p if your device accepts it
This is the first entry in the Set-up 4 menu. (See Figure 14.11.) As I mentioned earlier, you can output to an external monitor or video recorder using a cable that has an HDMI Mini-C connector to fit the camera and a standard HDMI connector on the other end to link to your device. You can set this option to Auto, in which case the camera will attempt to ascertain the correct resolution for the connected device, and then direct its output in that format. There may be some delay while the appropriate resolution is achieved, but if you know your device can accept 1080p video, you can go ahead and select that setting to avoid the time lag.
Figure 14.11 Set-up 4 menu.
The only problem with this procedure is that the system has a nasty habit of not adjusting to the correct resolution for some devices, complicated by the fact that you cannot then select the right setting yourself. I’ve encountered several devices, including my BlackMagic Intensity Shuttle capture device, that the camera is unable to recognize automatically, and which require a setting that Canon does not allow you to make manually. I checked with Canon and they offer no solution; there is no way to manually specify a resolution other than 1080p. I ended up using a $20 MavisLink USB-to-HDMI video capture device, and the free OBS Studio software to grab the screens shown in this book.
Options: Standard (default), Sensitive, Disable
My recommendation: Standard
Here you can specify how sensitive the touch screen is to your taps and strokes. Note that the screen responds to changes in capacitance (changes in an electrical charge), rather than pressure, so using a stylus or other object instead of a finger isn’t advised. Moisture or protective covers for the LCD screen may also interfere with touch operation, although I’ve had no problems with GGS screens available from Amazon and elsewhere. If you find that your everyday handling frequently triggers unwanted actions, you can disable touch control entirely if you never want to use it. Otherwise, set the amount of sensitivity that works best for digital control, so to speak. While Standard works best for most, those who use touch control frequently may want to try the Sensitive setting. However, at that setting, very rapid, light movements may not register.
Options: Main Dial, Quick Control Dial 2, Quick Control Dial 1, Multi-controller, Touch Control, Control Ring
My recommendation: N/A
Your camera includes a multi-function lock button located just north east of the QCD-2. Slide it to the right when you want to prevent the use of the Main Dial, Quick Control Dial 2, Quick Control Dial 1, Multi-controller, Touch Controls, or Control Ring from accidentally changing a setting.
You can select any or all six of the controls to lock, while freeing the others (or none) to act normally. I use this sometimes when I am using manual exposure, especially when I’m fumbling around in a darkened environment, and don’t want to unintentionally manipulate my settings. The Multi-Function Lock screen has one option for each control; highlight the control and press SET to lock or unlock it. A check mark appears next to the control’s name when it’s locked, and an L/Lock indicator appears in your displays. In Scene Intelligent Auto mode, only touch control can be locked. (See Figure 14.12.)
Figure 14.12 Lock any or all of these six: Main Dial, Quick Control Dial 2, Quick Control Dial 1, Multi-controller, Touch Control, and Control Ring.
Options: Closed (default), Open
My preference: Closed
Some first-time mirrorless camera owners freak out the first time they remove a lens and are confronted with a naked, unprotected image sensor. Those owners do not own an EOS R5 or R6. Canon intelligently has the camera close the shutter when powered down, preventing dust or even worse artifacts from landing on your sensor. The only time I disable this useful feature is when I am shooting acoustic concerts or other venues where silence is golden and the camera shuts down at intervals to preserve battery power. By keeping the shutter open and using the electronic shutter, the only sounds you’ll hear come from the almost-imperceptible whirr of the autofocus motor.
Options: Auto Cleaning, Clean Now (default), Clean Manually
My recommendation: N/A
One very useful feature is the automatic sensor cleaning system that reduces or eliminates the need to clean your camera’s sensor manually using brushes, swabs, or bulb blowers. Canon has applied anti-static coatings to the sensor and other portions of the camera body interior to counter charge build-ups that attract dust. A separate filter over the sensor vibrates ultrasonically each time the camera is powered on or off, shaking loose any dust, which is captured by a sticky strip beneath the sensor.
Use this menu entry to enable or disable automatic sensor cleaning on power up (select Auto Cleaning to choose) or to activate automatic cleaning during a shooting session (select Clean Now). You can also choose the Clean Manually option to open the shutter and clean the sensor yourself with a blower, brush, or swab. If the battery level is too low to safely carry out the cleaning operation, the camera will let you know and refuse to proceed, unless you use the optional AC Adapter Kit ACK-E6N with the DC Coupler DR-E6.
Options: Basic Settings, Other Settings
My recommendation: N/A
This, the first entry in the Set-up 5 menu, includes choices to let you return most settings to their default values. (See Figure 14.13, left and right.) You can choose Basic Settings, which restores the default adjustments for camera shooting functions and menu settings. Regardless of how you’ve set up your camera, it will be adjusted to One-Shot AF mode, Automatic Face+Tracking AF-point selection, Evaluative metering, Single Shot drive mode, JPEG Fine Large image quality, Automatic ISO, sRGB color mode, Automatic White Balance, Auto Lighting Optimizer Off, and Standard Picture Style. Any changes you’ve made to exposure compensation, flash exposure compensation, and white balance will be canceled, and any bracketing for exposure or white balance nullified. Custom white balances and Dust Delete Data will be erased.
Figure 14.13 The Set-up 5 menu for the R6 (left) and R5 (right).
The other settings that can be reset here include: Root Certificate, Communications Settings, Shooting Information Display, Custom Shooting Modes, Copyright Information, Custom Functions (Customize Buttons and Customize Dials will be retained), Custom Controls (clears Customize Buttons and Customize Dials), and My Menu. You’ll also find a Clear Customized Settings in the Custom Functions 3 menu and Clear All Custom Functions in the Custom Functions 5 menu, as explained in Chapter 14.
The original Set-up 5 menu was identical for both the R5 and R6. However, Canon added a new entry to the R5 version Save/Load Settings On Card, and split the menu into two.
Options: Register Settings; Clear Settings; Auto Update Settings: Enable, Disable
My recommendation: N/A
Custom Shooting modes are not cancelled by the Reset Camera commands. This entry allows you to register your current camera shooting settings and file them away in the C1, C2, or C3 positions and access them when pressing the MODE button. Doing this overwrites any settings previously stored at that position. You can also clear the settings for any of the three MODE positions individually, returning them to their factory default values.
Register your favorite settings for use in particular situations. I have stored settings for sports, portraits, and landscapes. If you switch to C1, C2, or C3 and forget what settings you’ve made for that slot, just press the INFO button to view the current settings. Keep in mind that My Menu settings are not stored individually. You can have only one roster of My Menu entries available for all the Mode Dial’s positions.
This menu choice has only three options: Register Settings (which stores your current settings in your choice of C1, C2, or C3), Clear Settings (which erases the settings in C1, C2, or C3), and Auto Update Settings. When the latter is set to Enable, any changes you make to your settings in C1, C2, or C3 modes will be stored in that memory slot; use Disable to preserve your registered setting as-is, ignoring any changes you made while using that Custom Shooting mode. Note that you must use this menu entry to clear your settings.
To perform these tasks, just follow these steps:
Options: Save to Card, Load from Card, Apply Name to Settings
My recommendation: N/A
You can save your current settings, including shooting functions, menu settings, and Custom Function settings, to a memory card as a special file that can be reloaded into your R5, or migrated to another R5. This entry has two settings, Save to Card and Load From Card. While saving you can press the INFO button to apply a specific 8-character name to these settings, using the standard text-entry screen. Note that you can load settings only to your own or another R5; different Canon cameras that can save settings are not compatible. If you’ve updated the firmware on this or the other camera, the settings cannot be restored; the camera must have the same firmware used originally to save the settings. Up to 10 sets of settings can be stored on an individual memory card.
Options: Register, Delete Info.
My recommendation: N/A
This entry is the third on the Set-up 5 menu of the R6, and first on the Set-up 6 menu of the R5 (see Figure 14.14). It is an exceptionally useful feature that allows you to view battery condition information and performance, and track the data among several different batteries. Your camera can keep track of multiple LP-E6, LP-E6N, or LP-E6NH batteries because each of them is given a unique serial number (which is either printed on or available on a sticker you can affix to the battery). The camera reads this serial number and stores information about each of the batteries that you use and have “registered” separately. I always recommend owning at least two and, preferably three or more batteries. That’s especially true if you use a battery grip. I also own other Canon cameras which use the same battery, so I’m able to justify four batteries to shuttle between my multiple cameras.
Figure 14.14 The Set-up 6 menu for the R5.
This feature makes it possible to see exactly how each battery you own is performing, allows you to rotate them to even out the usage, and helps you know when it’s time to replace a battery. When you select this menu choice, a Battery info screen like the one shown at left in Figure 14.15 appears, with a wealth of information (if you use two LP-E6/E6N packs in a grip, such as the BG-R10, information about both packs will appear):
The camera can “remember” information about up to six LP-E6-series battery packs, and provide readouts of their status individually. To register the battery currently in your camera, follow these steps:
Figure 14.15 View the battery type and position, remaining capacity, number of pictures taken with the current charge, and the performance of your pack (left). Register a new battery (right).
TIP Use this info with caution, however, as a given battery may have self-discharged slightly during storage and, of course, you may have fully recharged it since the last time it was inserted in the camera. However, this data can be useful in tracking the remaining capacity of several different battery packs during a single shooting session, or over the course of several days when you’re not recharging the packs after each session.
Options: Display Copyright Information, Enter Author’s Name, Enter Copyright Details, Delete Copyright Information
My recommendation: N/A
Here’s where you can give yourself credit for the great photos you’re shooting with your camera:
Options: None
My recommendation: N/A
This entry displays a URL you can type in to access manuals and software for your camera, as well as a QR code you can scan with your smart device to whisk you off to the same web page.
Options: None
My recommendation: N/A
This is an information-only screen, which allows Canon to add certification data (similar to what is printed on the bottom panel of the camera) via a firmware upgrade, and without the need to manufacture new stickers for the camera bottom.
Options: Update Firmware
My recommendation: N/A
You can see the current firmware release for camera-compatible accessories in the menu listing. If you want to update to a new firmware version, insert a memory card containing the binary file, and press the SET button to begin the process.