The Movie Shooting Menu is a menu subsystem similar to the Photo Shooting Menu discussed in the previous chapter. The Movie Shooting Menu applies its settings to the creation of videos instead of still pictures.
In previous Nikon cameras, as video capabilities increased, the video functions could be a little harder to locate because they were appended to some of the still picture menus. However, Nikon now wisely uses a completely separate menu for movie functions only. These easy-to-locate functions will make it much easier to configure your camera for high-quality video capture.
Following is a list and overview of the 18 items found on the D500 Movie Shooting Menu:
Figure 4.1 shows the location of the Movie Shooting Menu—the third menu down on the left. Its symbol is a movie camera on a tripod.
Let’s examine each of these Movie Shooting Menu functions in much greater detail.
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Reset movie shooting menu does what it says—it resets the Movie Shooting Menu back to factory defaults. If you want start over with all the settings in the Movie Shooting Menu, use this function.
Here are the steps to reset the Movie Shooting Menu:
Settings Recommendation: This is an easy way to start fresh for video with a particular User setting since it’s a full reset of all the Movie Setting Menu values. I use this when I purchase a preowned camera and want to clear someone else’s settings or if I simply want to start fresh.
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The File naming function allows you to change the first three characters (prefix) in the video’s file name to three characters of your choice. The default is DSC. You could use your initials, a combination of letters and numbers, all letters, or all numbers.
This works identically to the File naming function in the Photo Shooting Menu. If you will recall, there is a suggestion in chapter 3, Photo Shooting Menu, for tracking the number of still image files your camera has created (see page 75) so that you can keep up with it when your camera rolls the file name over to 0001 after exceeding 9999 files (i.e., when you exceed DSC_9999, the camera rolls the filename over to DSC_0001).
However, unless you bought your D500 to use primarily as a video maker, you will probably shoot less video compared to still images. In that case, you may not be concerned with exceeding 9999 videos. If you are concerned with tracking when your camera’s videos roll over from 9999 to 0001, review both this section and the similar section in chapter 3, under File Naming, on page 75.
Following is how to modify the first three characters (prefix) of the video filename.
Here are the steps to set up your custom File naming characters:
Now you’ve customized your camera so the file names reflect your personal needs.
Settings Recommendation: Because I shoot only a moderate number of videos in comparison to the large number of still images I create, I am not concerned with tracking when a video file name exceeds 9999 and rolls back over to 0001. Therefore, I simply add the prefix VID to my video files.
However, if you think you will create more than 9999 videos with this camera, you may want to consider using the postfix-number tracking system I describe in the File Naming function in chapter 3, on page 75.
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Destination lets you choose which memory card will receive and store your movies. Just below the card slot selections you will see something like this: 02h 36m 22s (h=hours, m=minutes, s=seconds). This is the total video recording time that particular card will hold. If you’re serious about shooting movies with your camera, you’d better buy some high-capacity cards—you’ll need them!
Here are the steps to select a Destination for your movies:
Settings Recommendation: I normally send all movies to the XQD card slot when I am out shooting still images and videos. I do this because of the additional speed of an XQD card, especially when I am shooting 4K video (2160p). If you are a heavy video shooter, you may want to use the XQD card slot as the primary memory card for videos.
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The Choose image area function is designed to allow you to use the normal DX view for most videos and to take advantage of the extra apparent reach of the 1.3x crop mode when you need it for something like videoing distant and/or small subjects. In figure 4.5A, compare the left (DX) and middle (1.3x) images.
The DX and 1.3x modes are available only when you have used the Frame size/frame rate function (see page 191) to select one of the 1280 × 720 (HD) or 1920 × 1080 (Full HD) modes.
If the Choose image area menu item is grayed out and unavailable, it is because the camera is set to one of the 3840 × 2160 (2160p) modes in the Frame size/frame function. Switch the Frame rate/frame size function (page 191) to one of the 1080p or 720p modes to open this menu on your camera.
As seen in figure 4.5A, the Nikon D500 can actually shoot video in DX mode (left image), 1.3x mode (middle image), and 1.5x modes (right image).
However, you cannot select 1.5x mode from the Choose image area settings. Instead, the camera automatically switches to the 1.5x mode when you select any of the three 3840 × 2160 (4K) Frame sizes. The 1.5x mode is a forced mode for 4K only. In other words, all 4K videos are in 1.5x mode!
Figure 4.5A shows three videos I created from exactly the same position. The DX mode (1080p) is obviously wider in field of view for the video frame, where the 1.3x mode (1080p) has a stronger apparent telephoto effect, and the forced 1.5x mode (2160p) has the highest crop factor of all.
The camera will automatically adjust the frame size to fit the Live view screen when using any of the three modes. In other words, you will see no lines on the Live view screen like you see in the Viewfinder when you select the 1.3x mode for still images. Instead, the camera simply presents the exact field of view you will see in your video.
This is much simpler to use when shooting a video because you don’t have to worry about trying to keep the video within certain lines on the Monitor. The video simply fits the screen and shows only what the camera is actually recording.
As previously mentioned, you can choose one of two Image area modes (DX or 1.3x) for video recording in 720p or 1080p modes only. Let’s examine how to do so.
Use the following steps to choose one of the two Image area modes:
Settings Recommendation: For general 720p or 1080p video recording, I leave the camera in DX mode. However, when I am trying to video something smaller or farther away, such as birds in a tree, or a bear across a meadow, I will switch to 1.3x mode to maximize the apparent telephoto view of my subject. The 1.3x mode is convenient for those who need to video things at a distance and would like a larger subject in the Live view screen.
If you want to shoot in 4K (2160p) mode, you will need to adjust yourself to the strong 1.5x crop factor (narrower field of view) on any lens you have mounted. The 4K setting puts more pixels on the subject, making it excellent for telephoto video capture. If you want to use 4K for normal video, you will have to use a wider-than-normal lens or sneaker-zoom (where you walk farther away from the subject).
If you do use a wide-angle lens for up-close 4K video, please watch out for perspective distortion, such as emphasized facial features (bigger nose and receding forehead, chin, and ears).
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The Nikon D500 provides 10 Frame size/frame rate settings. We discussed how to configure the Image area in the previous Choose Image Area section (on page 189).
Table 4.1 shows the Frame size (pixels) and frame rate (e.g., 60p, 30p) available for each Image area.
You will find additional information on this subject in the chapter titled Movie Live View, on page 603. Let’s examine how to choose a Frame size/frame rate setting.
The following steps allow you to select a Frame size/frame rate for your next movie:
Basically, the D500 can record video in HD (720p), Full HD (1080p), and 4K UHD (2160p). The new 4K UHD (ultrahigh definition) video modes are a welcome addition for many advanced videographers. If you have the equipment necessary to display 4K video, why not enjoy the higher resolution and sharper display?
Just keep in mind that a 4K video is quite large, requiring larger camera memory cards and greater hard drive storage on your computer. Plus, it is harder to grade (post-process) the video files later because the file size is significantly larger. Which mode you shoot most often will most likely be governed by available computer hardware capacity and processing power.
Settings Recommendation: I tend to prefer the cinematic look provided by the 1920 × 1080; 24p mode. That’s what we see when we go to the movies. However, if you want to use a somewhat faster frames-per-second rate for action, select 30p, which gives you 30 frames per second in progressive (p) mode for less motion blurring.
I am only now experimenting with the new 4K video modes and am finding them delightful to use. I still tend to shoot at 24p in 4K mode because I still prefer the cinematic look. You will need to experiment and determine your favorite video modes. Being able to shoot 30 minutes of 4K video is quite powerful, as long as you have enough memory card space!
If you want to shoot some slow motion, you will need to set the camera to 1920 × 1080; 60p. Then you will have to play the video back at a slower frame rate. Unfortunately, the process for changing video rates after the fact is beyond the scope of this book. For more information on shooting slow motion video and the necessary software, I suggest discussing this subject in the Nikon Video forum at www.Nikonians.org.
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Movie quality affects the “bit rate” (Mbps) at which the movie is shot. The bit rate decides the quality level of the movie, much like how the JPEG type (Fine, Normal, Basic) sets the quality of a JPEG still image. The higher the bit rate, the better the video quality. For video written to the memory card, two bit rates are available: High quality and Normal. How these are applied is controlled by the Frame size/frame rate of the video.
If your camera’s Movie quality menu selection is grayed out and unavailable, it is because you have one of the three 4K UHD (2160p) video modes selected. In the three 4K modes, the camera defaults to High quality mode at all times.
Table 4.2 shows a list of Frame size/frame rates, Movie quality bit rates, and maximum video lengths controlled by the bit rate.
Now let’s examine how to select one of the two Movie quality choices.
Use these steps to choose a Movie quality:
Note: The Movie quality setting is applied to compressed (H.264 MPEG-4 AVC) video written to the camera’s memory cards only. Streaming uncompressed video through the HDMI port to an external video recorder is not affected by this setting. We will discuss this in more detail in the chapter titled Movie Live View on page 600.
Settings Recommendation: Because I am interested in maximum video quality, I leave my camera set to High quality. Any important video that will be displayed on a local computer or TV for friends and family to view deserves the High quality setting. (All video shot in 4K mode is fixed at High quality.)
However, if you are shooting some fun video for uploading to a social media site, which will compress the video to the max, destroying its high quality in the process, you could select Normal. Or, if your camera is low on card space and you need to cram as much video onto the card as possible, use the Normal setting.
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Movie ISO sensitivity settings give you control over the light sensitivity of the imaging sensor, including whether you manually control it, or the camera sets it automatically, while you are making a video.
Let’s examine the various settings within the Movie ISO sensitivity settings function.
You can use Movie ISO sensitivity settings directly from the Movie Shooting Menu to change the camera’s ISO sensitivity. Figure 4.8A shows the three screens used. Select your favorite ISO sensitivity for the circumstances in which you find yourself.
Notice in image 3 of figure 4.8A that you have a scrollable list of ISO sensitivity settings. It extends from ISO 100 to ISO 1,640,000 (Hi 5).
Here are the steps to select an ISO sensitivity setting:
If you’d like, you can simply let your camera decide which ISO it would like to use. Let’s consider this feature in detail.
You may have noticed in figure 4.8A, image 2, that there is another setting available, the Auto ISO control (mode M), which defaults to Off. This setting allows the D500 camera itself to control the ISO sensitivity according to the light levels sensed by the camera’s metering system. Figure 4.8B shows the Movie Shooting Menu screens used to enable the Auto ISO control (mode M).
Use the following steps to enable or disable the Auto ISO control (mode M):
Once you’ve set Auto ISO control (mode M) to On, you should immediately set the Maximum sensitivity (ISO) that you want to use while shooting a video. Let’s discuss how.
The Maximum sensitivity setting is a safeguard for you (figure 4.8C, image 2). It allows the camera to adjust its own ISO sensitivity from the minimum value you have set in ISO sensitivity (figure 4.8A, image 3) to the value set in Maximum sensitivity (figure 4.8C, image 3), according to light conditions.
Think of the main ISO sensitivity setting as the ISO floor value (lowest ISO used) and the Maximum sensitivity setting as the ISO ceiling value (highest ISO used). When using the Auto ISO sensitivity control, the camera will not exceed the floor and ceiling ISO values.
The camera will try to maintain the lowest ISO sensitivity it can to make a good video. However, if needed, it can rapidly rise to the Maximum sensitivity level.
Use the following steps to choose a Maximum sensitivity (ISO) for your video when the Auto ISO control (mode M) is set to On:
The camera will attempt to use a lower ISO until it can no longer make good video without raising the ISO value. The factory default Maximum sensitivity value is ISO 51200. This default setting will let the camera take the ISO sensitivity all the way up to ISO 51200 in a low-light situation. However, if you think an ISO that high may cause too much noise to appear in your video, you may want to reduce the ISO value. I keep my maximum set to ISO 12800. Maximum sensitivity is the maximum ISO value the camera will use to get a good exposure for the video when the light drops.
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The White balance (WB) settings for video recording work basically the same way they do for making still images. You can select a specific WB type, such as Direct sunlight, Fluorescent, or Cloudy, or you can let the camera decide which WB to use with the Auto WB mode.
If you prefer to be extremely accurate, you can choose a specific Kelvin color temperature from 2500K to 10000K, or you can do an ambient light reading from a white or gray card for the best color temperature matching.
Virtually everything you know about WB for still images works the same way for video recording. To prevent this section from repeating material covered in other chapters, we will consider only how to make a WB selection in this section. For deeper information on how to use White balance, see the more detailed White Balance section found on page 126 in Photo Shooting Menu, and refer to the chapter titled White Balance on page 521.
Now, let’s examine how to select a particular WB value for your video.
The steps to select a White balance setting for video recording are as follows:
Settings Recommendation: I generally leave my camera set to the Same as photo settings selection when I am shooting video (figure 4.9A, image 2). A nature photographer such as myself generally can shoot both still images and video with similar WB values. However, your style of video may require a WB setting completely different from the setting you use to shoot still images. The camera offers you the ability to have separate WB values for both photos and video.
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The Set Picture Control function allows you to use Nikon Picture Controls to impart a certain look to your video. Set Picture Control works in a very similar way for both video and still images. In fact, the factory default for this function is the same as the settings that you last used when taking pictures (figure 4.10A).
Each Picture Control has settings for sharpening, contrast, brightness, saturation, and hue. Here is a list of each choice on the Set Picture Control menu and what each one does for your videos:
If you leave this function set to Same as photo settings, the camera will use the same Picture Control settings for both still images and video. By selecting any of the listed Picture Controls instead of Same as photo settings, you are separating Picture Control Use for still image and video shooting. Each will use their own settings, instead of sharing Picture Control settings.
Now let’s consider how to select one of the Picture Controls for shooting a video with a specific look.
Use the following steps to choose a Picture Control:
Note: As previously mentioned, this Set Picture Control function for videos is very similar to the Set Picture Control function for still images. To prevent duplication of material, we have only considered how to select the controls in this chapter. For a much more detailed discussion of how the Picture Controls work, including the internal adjustments within each control, please read the section Set Picture Control in chapter 3, Photo Shooting Menu, on page 129.
Settings Recommendation: I normally leave my camera set to the SD Standard Picture Control, unless I am shooting nature video. I like the idea of separating my use of Picture Controls for still images and video. When I am shooting nature videos on an overcast, low-contrast day, I will often use the VI Vivid Picture Control to add a little snap to the video. If I am shooting nature in direct sunshine, I do not like the extra high contrast of the VI Vivid Picture Control and therefore use the LS Landscape Picture Control.
If I am shooting a high school graduation or wedding, I will usually use the PT Portrait Picture Control to prevent odd skin coloration in my human subjects. If I plan to grade the video myself in my computer, I will use the FL Flat Picture Control to record as much dynamic range as I can in the video for later manipulation in software.
This is a very subjective setting. You will need to experiment with the various Picture Controls to see what they can add to your videos. Each of them has a certain look that can be useful at different times.
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The Manage Picture Control function is designed to allow you to create and store Custom Picture Control settings for future video use. You can take an existing Nikon Picture Control (SD, NL, VI, MC, PT, LS, or FL) that is included with the camera, make modifications to it, and then rename it.
If you modify a Picture Control using the Set Picture Control function discussed in the previous section, you simply create a one-off setting. If you’d like to go further and create your own named Custom Picture Controls, the D500 is happy to oblige.
Any changes you make to a Nikon Picture Control within this function affect that particular control for video use only. The camera saves Custom Picture Controls separately for still images and video. You will not see custom controls for still images on the video menu, and vice versa.
Let’s look at each of these settings and examine how to manage Picture Controls effectively.
There are six screens used to save and edit a Nikon Picture Control (figure 4.11A)—storing the results for later use as a Custom Picture Control.
Here are the steps to edit and save a Picture Control with modified settings for use in your video productions:
Once you have created and saved a Custom Picture Control, you can still tell which control was used as its base, just in case you name it in a way that does not suggest its origins.
Notice the red arrow in the upper-right corner of the screen in figure 4.11B. This is the control we just created in the previous steps (STANDARD-02) and it is derived from an SD Nikon Picture Control, as shown by the SD label to which the arrow is pointing.
Your camera is now set to your Custom Picture Control. You switch between your Custom Picture Controls and the basic Nikon Picture Controls by using Set Picture Control (see the previous section titled Set Picture Control on page 129). In other words, each of your newly named Custom Picture Controls will appear in the Set Picture Control menu for later selection.
Now, let’s examine how to rename an existing Custom Picture Control.
Now that you have created and saved a new Custom Picture Control or two, you may want to rename one of them. Here’s how.
Use the following steps to rename an existing Custom Picture Control for video use:
Note: You can have more than one control with exactly the same name in your list of Custom Picture Controls. The camera does not get confused because each control has a different location (C-1 to C-9) to keep it separate from the rest. However, I don’t suggest that you give several custom controls the same name. How would you tell them apart?
When a Custom Picture Control is no longer needed, you can easily delete it. Here’s how.
You cannot delete a Nikon Picture Control (SD, NL, VI, MC, PT, LS, FL). In fact, they don’t even appear in any of the Manage Picture Control menu screens.
However, you can delete one or more of your video Custom Picture Controls with the following screens and steps:
Now, let’s move to our last menu selection from the Manage Picture Control screen: Load/save.
There are three parts to the Load/save function. They allow you to copy Custom Picture Controls to and from the memory card or delete them from the card.
Here are the three selections on the Load/save menu, as shown in figure 4.11E, image 3:
Let’s examine each of these selections and see how best to use them.
You can use the Copy to camera function to copy Custom Picture Controls from your camera’s memory card to the camera’s Set Picture Control menu for video use. Once you have transferred a Custom Picture Control from your memory card to your camera, it will show up in the Movie Shooting Menu > Set Picture Control menu.
Here are the steps to copy a Custom Picture Control from the memory card to the Set Picture Control menu:
Once you’ve finished loading Custom Picture Controls for video to your camera, you may be ready to delete a control or two from the memory card. You could format the memory card, but that will blow away all images and Picture Controls on the card. A less drastic method that allows you to be more selective in removing Picture Controls is the Delete from card function.
Here are the steps used to remove Custom Picture Controls for video from your camera’s memory card:
After you create up to nine Custom Picture Controls for video using the instructions in the last few sections, you can use the Copy to card function to save them to a memory card. Once they are on a memory card, you can share your custom video controls with friends who have compatible Nikon cameras.
When your Custom Picture Controls for video are ready to go, use the following steps to copy them to a memory card:
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The Active D-Lighting function allows you some contrast control while capturing video. If shadows are deeper than you’d like, you can open them up somewhat and maintain more dark detail. If the highlights are in danger of burning out to pure white, you can reign them in a little and preserve more highlight detail.
We discussed Active D-Lighting in detail in the Photo Shooting Menu chapter on page 150. Refer to that section for deeper information. Active D-Lighting works the same for both still images and video. Here is a review of how it works.
Notice in the images of a rose (figure 4.12A) how the various levels of Active D-Lighting—from Off to H* Extra high—affect the image or video. The shadows are progressively opened up while the highlights are protected from becoming blown out.
Use the following steps to select an Active D-Lighting level:
Settings Recommendation: When I am shooting video on a sunny day, I will usually add some Active D-Lighting, either L Low or N Normal. When there is a lot of contrast, such as in the direct sun, shadow detail can be hard to see and brighter subjects tend to become overexposed due to sunny reflection. Some level of Active D-Lighting can be useful to contain excessive contrast. Why not experiment by shooting video with various levels until you determine what works best for you?
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High ISO NR (High ISO Noise Reduction) lessens the effects of digital noise in your videos when you use high ISO sensitivity settings.
The D500 has better noise control than most cameras, so it can record video with an ISO setting of up to 1600 with little noise. However, no HD-SLR camera (that I know of) is completely without noise, so it’s a good idea to use some noise reduction above a certain ISO sensitivity.
If High ISO NR is turned Off, the camera still does a small amount of noise reduction—less than the Low setting. Therefore, at higher ISO settings there will always be some noise reduction.
You can control the amount of noise reduction by choosing one of the four High ISO NR settings: High, Normal, Low, or Off.
We covered how High ISO NR works in greater detail in the Photo Shooting Menu chapter on page 156. The function works the same for both images and video. Review that section if you need deeper information on how High ISO NR works.
Use the following steps to choose a High ISO NR setting for video:
Settings Recommendation: I leave High ISO NR set to Low or Normal. I do want some noise reduction above ISO 1600 for videos. However, since any form of noise reduction blurs the video slightly, I don’t go too far with it. Shoot some high-ISO videos and decide for yourself which settings you are comfortable with.
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Flicker reduction helps to reduce the banding effect we’ve all seen in videos, where a darker-than-normal band travels down the screen during playback. When you record video under certain types of lighting, especially fluorescent and mercury-vapor lights, your video may be more susceptible to banding (flicker).
To help prevent this banding effect, it’s a good idea to enable Flicker reduction. You may want to start off by selecting Auto Flicker reduction (figure 4.14, image 2), which asks the camera to detect the frequency of the flickering and to time the video frame capture in a way that reduces banding.
If you do not have good results with Auto, you can try the 50Hz or 60Hz setting (figure 4.14, image 2); choose whichever one gives you the best results.
Sometimes, when subjects are especially bright, flicker may be worse. In this case, it is a good idea to use a smaller aperture (e.g., f/8 or smaller).
Use these steps to select a Flicker reduction setting:
Settings Recommendation: I usually start off with Auto mode, and if that doesn’t work, I try the 50Hz and 60Hz settings to see what happens. Another way to control banding, besides using the Flicker reduction, is to shoot the video in Manual (M) exposure mode and experiment with a shutter speed setting that more closely matches the frequency of the local electricity supply. If the frequency of electricity in your area is 50Hz, use a shutter speed of 1/100 sec, 1/50 sec, or 1/24 sec. For 60Hz (United States), try 1/125 sec, 1/60 sec, or 1/30 sec.
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Microphone sensitivity allows you to choose how sensitive the camera’s audio recording circuit is to sound. You can use your D500’s internal stereo microphone or an Accessory-shoe mounted microphone such as the Nikon ME-1 stereo mic (figure 4.15A).
In figure 4.15A you can see the two main types of microphones. One is an external, Accessory-shoe mounted microphone that plugs into the audio-in port found on the side of the camera, under the rubber flap labeled MIC (image on left). The other is the built-in stereo microphone on the top front of the camera (image on right; the stereo left and right ports are at the tip of the two red arrows). When you plug in an external mic, the camera automatically disables the built-in stereo mic.
There are three available Microphone sensitivity settings. Let’s learn how to use them.
The following steps allow you to select a Microphone sensitivity setting for your next movie:
If you decide to adjust the microphone sensitivity manually, instead of using Auto mode (as selected in figure 4.15B, image 2), you will need to use the Manual sensitivity setting (as selected in figure 4.15C).
Use these steps to choose a sound level manually:
As displayed in figure 4.15D, image 2, you can also choose to disable the microphone completely and record a silent movie by selecting the Microphone off setting. Use this setting if you are using a clapperboard for synchronization and an external sound-recording device.
This will separate sound recording from the camera body or attached mic, removing the little squeaks, clicks, and whines that all HD-SLR cameras make while autofocusing, zooming, and changing apertures.
Use these steps to turn the internal stereo microphone off and disable the MIC audio-in port on the camera:
Settings Recommendation: For basic video using the built-in stereo mic, or even with an external Accessory-mounted mic, such as the Nikon ME-1, the Auto setting seems to perform well.
Experiment with this setting at Auto and Manual to see which works best for you. Auto sensitivity works for most of us, and Manual sensitivity is better for those with more critical needs.
If you are using an external video recorder and streaming uncompressed video from the HDMI port, you will generally set the camera’s Microphone sensitivity setting to Microphone off and use an external audio recorder and a sound synchronization device.
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The Frequency response function allows you to choose two different ranges of audio-frequency response to use while recording sound for a video. Sound is a very important part of quality video recording!
Maybe you want to record a video in the wilds of the jungle and would like to pick up the sound of every birdsong, leaf rustle, and buzzing insect. On the other hand, you could be recording a video of a famous lecturer and would rather not pick up the sounds of people walking by, a bird singing outside the window, and road traffic outside.
The Nikon D500 gives you better control of sound quality than many Nikons before it. With a combination of the Microphone sensitivity and Frequency response functions, you can capture some very high-quality sound. Microphone sensitivity affects how sensitive the microphone is, and Frequency response affects which sound frequencies the mic is most sensitive to. We’ve already considered Microphone sensitivity, so now let’s see how Frequency response works.
Use the following steps to choose a Frequency response setting for your camera’s microphone.
Settings Recommendation: Because I am a nature photographer, I often use the Wide range setting when shooting video in the Great Smoky Mountains. However, when recording a wedding ceremony, I often use the Vocal range setting so that I won’t get so much spurious noise from the audience.
Test these two settings carefully for your style of photography to see which works best for you. Most people use Wide range for general video recording.
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The Wind noise reduction function helps remove that aggravating sound you hear when wind blows on the camera’s stereo microphone ports. This function will not work with external, Accessory-shoe mounted, stereo microphones.
Have you ever recorded a video on a beautiful, breezy spring day, only to later find that you have recorded that distinctive rumbling sound of wind blowing across the mic ports instead of the clear sound you desired?
While that sound may not be completely eliminated without using special external microphones designed to deal with it, it can be significantly reduced with a selective low-cut filter, which removes or cuts low-frequency noises like wind rumbles.
Fortunately for D500 users, Nikon has included a low-cut filter setting for when you are recording video. If you turn this filter on, you can remove a portion of wind noise when recording outside.
However, if you are recording an orchestra, with deep cello and bass parts, a low-cut filter may take away some of the depth in the recording, so maybe it shouldn’t be left on all the time. Let’s see how to enable and disable the Wind noise reduction low-cut filter.
Use the following steps to choose a Wind noise reduction setting for your camera’s microphone.
Settings Recommendation: I use this wind noise filter selectively. Most of the time I am using an external Nikon ME-1 Accessory-shoe mounted microphone, which has a foam screen around the mic to reduce or eliminate most wind noise. I do use Wind noise reduction when I am outside using the built-in stereo mic to record family events, such as a cookout in Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
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Time-lapse movie is a cousin of Interval timer shooting (see the previous chapter). The primary difference is that Time-lapse movie is designed to create a silent time-lapse movie obeying the Frame size/frame rate and Image area options configured earlier in this chapter.
During time-lapse creation, the camera automatically takes pictures at intervals you select during setup and later assembles them into a time-lapse movie.
Let’s examine how to set up a short time-lapse sequence using Time-lapse movie.
Here are the steps to set up a Time-lapse Interval, Shooting time, and Exposure smoothing:
Note: Before you start a time-lapse sequence, check the framing and exposure by taking a picture from the position you will use to capture the time-lapse movie. It is often best to shoot in Manual (M) exposure mode with everything preset to a particular aperture, shutter speed, and ISO sensitivity. When shooting in M mode, if you are worried about ambient light changes affecting the exposure during the time-lapse session, simply enable Photo Shooting Menu > ISO sensitivity settings > Auto ISO sensitivity control. Use the ISO-Auto setting from the Photo Shooting Menu because the Time-lapse movie function is just a series of still images joined together and is not a true video. ISO-Auto allows the camera to vary the ISO sensitivity within a range you can set, and will prevent inconsistencies in exposure during the sequence. Additionally, it is a good idea to choose a White balance setting other than Auto to keep the colors the same across all the images in the time-lapse movie.
If you have selected a long shooting time, you may want to consider connecting the camera to the optional Nikon EH-5b AC adapter for continuous power (you’ll also need the Nikon EP-5B power supply connector if you do).
Time-lapse movie is not available (it’s grayed out) if Shutter speed is set to Bulb, when you are in the middle of a bracket sequence, if the camera is connected via an HDMI cable to an external device for movie recording, or when HDR, Multiple exposure, or Interval timer shooting is enabled.
Time-sequence length calculation: The total number of frames in the movie can be calculated by dividing the shooting time by the interval. Then you calculate the movie length by dividing the number of frames by the frame rate (e.g., 30p, 24p) you’ve selected in Movie Shooting Menu > Frame size/frame rate. Remember, the Time-lapse movie system makes short movies based on Frame size/frame rate and Image area configured under the Movie Shooting Menu.
What you will see while shooting: While you’re recording the time-lapse sequence, a moving line symbol outlining a rectangle will be active on the Control panel. The time remaining in hours and minutes will be displayed in the upper-left corner of the Control panel, just before each frame is recorded. The normal shutter speed and aperture will be displayed on the Control panel between frames (unless the frames are too loosely spaced in time), allowing you to make adjustments if needed (according to the exposure mode you are using). No matter how you have Custom Setting Menu > c2 Standby timer configured, the exposure meter will not turn off during shooting. To stop the sequence outright, press the OK button or turn the camera off.
A movie is made: When the sequence is complete, the camera will automatically assemble a short, silent movie based on the frame rates you selected in the Movie Shooting Menu. You can identify the time-lapse movie by the fact that it shows a Play touch button on the screen with the first frame of the movie sequence.
Settings Recommendation: This function is quite convenient for those of us who would like to experiment with or shoot interesting time-lapse sequences. Try shooting some short sequences of an event and see how easy it is!
(User’s Manual: Page 291, Menu Guide: Page 66)
The Electronic VR function gives you a way to stabilize your videos when you shoot handheld. It does not use physical sensor-shifting technology like some cameras use. Instead, it works by pixel-shifting the video frame to add stability.
In other words, as slight vibrations occur during handheld video capture, the image projected on the sensor will change position slightly. The camera attempts to shift which pixels are capturing video, in time with the vibration from camera shake.
Electronic VR works alongside the normal VR found in most Nikkor lenses to keep the frame more stable.
Use the following steps to enable or disable Electronic VR:
Settings Recommendation: This function may be useful if you are not moving around much while shooting a video handheld. However, if you are shooting a video while walking around, Electronic VR tends to make the video look jumpy. For serious videos, I would stick with normal VR, but for fun videos, you might want to give it a try. Experiment carefully with this function before putting it to serious use, especially for a commercial video!
The Nikon D500’s Movie Shooting Menu brings virtually all the video functions for your powerful HD-SLR camera together into one convenient menu system. This means no more searching among the other menus for video functions.
This shows how much progress the video subsystems have made in the last few years for our HD-SLR cameras. They are indeed HD-SLR (hybrid-digital single-lens reflex) cameras, with both video and still image capability. With so many video functions all together in one menu, it is even easier than ever before to create excellent video movies with your camera.
The next chapter begins a discussion of the very large Custom Setting Menu, which is the core of the camera’s configuration for various shooting styles. Be sure to have your camera in hand as we proceed through the deepest, most technical parts of D500 custom function configuration, the Custom Setting Menu.
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