Keep your makeup brushes
clean and organized with this
stylish roll-up fabric holder. The
design accommodates six to
eight brushes and keeps them
secure in their own tiny pockets.
The fabric folds over to protect
them and rolls up for easy, grab-
and-go style!
What You Need
• Knowledge of straight seams, pivoting, sewing corners, and
binding
• One 18×45-inch (45.75
×
114.25 cm) piece or three 18×22-inch
(45.75
×
56 cm) pieces heavy fabric, such as denim. (Use three
pieces if you want a contrasting exterior and interior.)
• 10×12-inch (25×30.5 cm) piece fusible nonwoven interfacing
• 48-inch-long (122 cm) extra-wide bias tape
• Scissors
• Sewing machine
• Measuring tape
• Straight pins
• Masking tape
• Iron
• Stiff, bristled brush (optional)
244 Part 4: A Gallery of Projects
Intermediate Project 4:
Makeup Brush Holder
ttProjectsInter_Sewing.indd 244 5/23/13 3:41 PM
Apply the interfacing to the wrong side of the
pocket. Center it so the seam allowances aren’t
covered.
With the wrong sides together, fold the pocket in
half, matching up the 13-inch-long (33 cm) sides.
Pin the pocket to the bottom edge of the top
layer of the body.
Using a
1
⁄
4
-inch (.6 cm) seam allowance, baste
stitch the sides and bottom edge of the pocket.
Pivot at the corners.
2 3
1
245Intermediate Projects
Holder Pieces to Measure and Cut
• Main body: pieces, each inches
(. cm)
• Pocket: piece, inches ( cm)
• Interfacing: piece, inches
(.. cm)
Note: Since youre using a heavier fabric
(I used denim) as the backing layer, you
dont need to use interfacing here.
ttProjectsInter_Sewing.indd 245 5/23/13 3:41 PM
6 7
4 5
Straight stitch along the edge of the tape. Stop
when you get to the top edge of the pocket. Peel
the tape up out of the way.
Use masking tape as a guide to sew a straight line.
Measure 2
1
⁄
2
inches (6.25 cm) from the left side
to sew the first pocket line. The stitching line is
sewn the entire length of the fabric.
Trim the seam allowances at the bottom two cor-
ners. The larger stitching line that’s visible is from
previously basting the pocket; you should trim
through that stitching line.
Place the backing layer on top of the top layer,
right sides together. Pin and stitch around the
sides and bottom edge, leaving the top end open.
The pocket is sandwiched in
between the two layers.
246 Part 4: A Gallery of Projects
Sew at a
1
⁄2-inch (1.25 cm) seam
allowance around the edges.
Brush pocket widths:
1 at 2
1
⁄2 inches (6.25 cm)
2 at 2 inches (5 cm)
2 at 1
1
⁄2 inches (4 cm)
2 at 1 inch (2.5 cm)
ttProjectsInter_Sewing.indd 246 5/23/13 3:41 PM
Pivot the foot, and sew two stitches. Pivot, and
sew diagonally back to the line. Pivot, and sew
diagonally up to the top edge of the pocket. Pivot
back to the center line.
The pivoted shape should look like this when fin-
ished. The arrowhead reinforcement is optional,
so feel free to skip if you like.
Continue to sew the rows of stitching to create
the pockets, spacing the rows at the specified
measurements. Each row of stitching should be
sewn all the way at the open end.
Cut the bias tape to the length of the open end of
the roll 12
1
⁄
4
inches (31 cm). Open it up, place it
right sides down, pin, and sew along the fold line.
10 11
8
9
247Intermediate Projects
This shows how to create an arrowhead
reinforcement at the top of each pocket.
ttProjectsInter_Sewing.indd 247 5/23/13 3:41 PM
Turn the roll over, and fold the bias tape over to
the backside. With the edge folded under, pin it
so it’s covering the raw edge of the fabric.
Topstitch along both long edges of the bias tape,
leaving the short ends unsewn.
To make the tie, cut a 36-inch (91.5 cm) piece
of the bias tape. Fold it in half, and topstitch the
edges the entire length of the tie, leaving the
short ends unsewn.
Measure 5 inches (12.75 cm) up from the end with
the binding, and pin the center of the tie to the
first stitching line. Stitch in place, lining the new
stitching up with the existing stitching.
14 15
12 13
248 Part 4: A Gallery of Projects
ttProjectsInter_Sewing.indd 248 5/23/13 3:41 PM
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