Glossary
258 Appendix
appliqué Pieces cut from fabric, felt, or other materials
that are then sewn onto a foundation fabric.
backing The underside or lining in quilting.
backstitch One or two firm stitches at the beginning or
end of a row of stitching.
ballpoint needle A sewing machine needle with a rounded
tip that stitches knit fabrics without splitting the fabric.
bar tacks A series of stitches used for reinforcing areas
of stress, such as pocket openings or the bottom of a fly
opening.
baste A large running stitch done to temporarily hold
pieces together during both fitting and construction.
batting Insulating material between the top and
bottom layers of the fabric commonly used in quilts or
padded garments.
bias The diagonal direction between the straight grain
and the crossgrain. True bias is at a 45-degree angle.
bias tape Tape made from strips of fabric cut on the bias.
Bias tape is used for binding or facing seams.
binding Finishing the raw edge of a garment by attaching
a narrow strip of fabric that folds over to enclose the edge.
bobbin A round spool holding the thread that forms the
underside of a machine stitch.
bolt A roll of fabric.
boning Plastic strips slipped into sheaths that are sewn
into a garment to give support and body contouring.
casing A flat tube of fabric through which tape, elastic, or
trim can be threaded.
clip To cut into a seam allowance to mark a placement or
allow a curve to spread and lie smooth.
crosswise grain Fabric threads running from selvage to
selvage.
D-ring A D-shaped ring used as a fastener in belts and
straps.
dart A triangle-shaped tuck stitched into a garment that
allows a fabric to shape to the contours of the body.
drape The way fabric falls on the body.
drawstring A cord or ribbon inserted through a hem or
casing.
dress form A torso-shaped frame used to fit garments
during the construction process.
ease An allowance added to a pattern for movement in a
garment.
edge stitching A row of stitching along the very edge of
a garment or fold. Edge stitching is usually done about
1
⁄
8
inch (.3 cm) or less from the edge.
elastic thread Thin, polyester-wrapped thread used to
make stretchable shirred fabric.
embroidery hoop A pair of rings that keep fabric taut for
embroidering.
eyelet A small hole made in fabric. An eyelet is frequently
finished with a buttonhole stitch or grommet.
facing Fabric pieces either cut separately or folded back
over themselves that enclose the raw edge of a garment.
fastener Any method of closing a garment, such as a
snap, zipper, or button.
fat quarter A
1
⁄
2
yard (45.75 cm) of fabric cut in half to
make two quarters of a yard. Fat quarters usually mea-
sure 18
x
22 inches (45.75×56 cm), while a standard
1
⁄
4
-yard
(23cm) cut on a bolt is 9
x
44 inches (23×111.75 cm).
feed dogs Metal teethlike ridges that emerge from
rectangular holes in the throat plate of a sewing machine.
Feed dogs gently grip the underneath of the fabric, helping
it to move away as the stitches are sewn.
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259Glossary
fiberfill Polyester fiber used for filling or insulation in
pillows, comforters, and outerwear.
finger press Using your finger to mark and press a fold.
finish Turning under a raw edge and stitching it in place.
fitting lines Lines marked on a pattern that indicate the
finished lines after sewing.
flat-felled seam Sewing the wrong sides of the fabric
together and trimming one seam allowance close before
turning the other seam under and stitching it over the first.
fly wheel The wheel that raises and lowers the sewing
machine needle.
fray The loose threads on the edge of a fabric.
free arm A section on most sewing machines that can be
removed from the base, allowing easier sewing of various
types of projects—for example, when sewing around cus or
hems of trousers.
French seam A seam stitched first with the wrong sides
together, and then turned in and stitched with the right
sides together so the raw edges are enclosed in the seam.
This seam is often found in high-quality garments and is
often used with sheer fabrics.
frog closure A fancy buttonlike closure for a garment.
Frogs are usually ornamental and are made from silk ribbons
or cords.
fuse To join two surfaces together with fusible tape.
fusible tape or webbing A heat-activated adhesive used
to bond fabric.
gather To draw up a fabric by pulling rows of basting
stitches in order to make it fit into a smaller, predetermined
area.
godet An extra piece of fabric in the shape of a circular
pie segment that’s sewn into a seam to give added flare and
volume. Godets are usually seen in dresses and skirts.
grade 1. Trimming one layer at a narrower width to reduce
bulk in the seam allowance. 2. Altering a pattern to make it
fit a smaller or larger size.
grain Indicates the direction of the yarn in fabric. The
stronger lengthwise grain runs vertically parallel to the
selvage, while the crosswise grain runs horizontally and has
more give.
grommet A metal ring inserted into a hole in the fabric
that helps reinforce openings used for lacings.
grosgrain ribbon A heavy corded ribbon characterized
by its horizontal ribbed appearance.
handwheel The wheel that raises and lowers the sewing
machine needle. See also fly wheel.
hem To finish the raw edge of a fabric by folding it over
and stitching it down.
hem line On a pattern, the line that shows where the fin-
ished hem will be.
Hong Kong binding A binding that encloses the raw
edges of the seams separately or individually inside strips of
bias tape.
interfacing A textile used on the wrong side of the fabric
to give support and help shape or stabilize where desired.
Interfacing can be sewn in or fusible.
interlining A layer of fabric between the face and lining
of a garment to give added warmth or body.
jacquard A fabric in which the design is intricately woven
into the weave using a special loom.
jeans needle A strong needle for heavyweight fabrics,
with a larger eye to accommodate thicker thread.
knit A fabric that consists of interlocking loops called
stitches that can be made by hand or on a sewing machine.
lining A layer of fabric sewn to the inside of clothing
that covers construction details and makes garments easier
to put on and take o. Lining is usually made from a slick
fabric.
machine basting A straight stitch sewn at the largest
stitch length available. Machine basting is used to temporar-
ily hold pieces together or create gathers.
miter The diagonal join of two edges at a corner used to
finish the corners of garments or quilts.
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monofilament thread A clear, polyester or nylon thread
used for hemming and quilting.
muslin A cotton fabric made in various weights that’s
often used to make sewing patterns.
nap Fabric that has a raised pile or texture to it, such as
velvet or corduroy. Nap runs in one direction and requires all
pattern pieces be cut in the same direction.
needle plate Also called the throat plate, a metal or plastic
plate on the base of the machine under the presser foot that
has seam allowance markings to guide the fabric.
nonwoven A fabriclike material made from long fibers
bonded together by a chemical or heat process—for exam-
ple, felt.
notches Marking on a pattern used to line up two or
more fabric pieces that will be joined together. Notches are
symbolized in various sizes, from single to quadruple.
notions A collective term for a variety of sewing acces-
sories. Notions can refer to buttons, snaps, zippers, thread,
pins, or seam rippers.
one-way design Printed fabrics that have a directional
pattern requiring special attention to be paid when cutting.
All pieces must be facing in the same direction.
overlock (serge) A quick method for finishing seams and
edges in which you use a special machine called a serger.
Edges are trimmed and covered with thread in one operation.
patchwork Sewing strips or blocks of fabric together to
make one larger piece. Patchwork is often used in quilting.
pattern weights Small weights used in place of pins to
hold the pattern to the fabric when cutting.
pile The raised surface or nap of a fabric made by upright
loops. Pile can be cut (as in velvet and corduroy) or left as
loops (as in terry cloth).
pinking shears Shears with notched blades used to finish
the edges of fabric with a zigzag cut. Cuts made by these
shears are done for decoration or to prevent raveling.
piping cord A cord used inside a fold of fabric to create
piping trim.
pivot When sewing, to turn the corner by keeping the
needle in the down position without cutting the thread.
placket A finished opening found on shirt fronts, sleeve
cus, skirt openings, dresses, and pants that’s made to
accommodate buttons, snaps, and other fasteners.
press Using an iron in an up-and-down motion on one
section of a fabric at a time without sliding the iron over it.
presser foot The part of the sewing machine that rests
on the fabric, pressing it down onto the feed dogs.
pressing cloth A thin cotton fabric used in between the
iron’s surface and the fabric for protection.
pressing ham A tightly stued, ham-shaped pillow used
to press curved seams and darts.
raglan A type of sleeve with a seam that runs diagonally
down from the neckline to the underarm. A raglan is made
separately and then attached to a garment.
raw edge The unfinished, undecorated edge of a fabric.
ribbing A fabric trim knitted to create ribs for stretchability.
Ribbing is commonly used for cus and waistbands.
right side The finished side of a fabric.
rise The distance between the crotch and waistband in
pants, shorts, and underwear.
rotary cutter A tool with a sharp, circular blade used to
cut fabric.
rotary cutting ruler A metal or hard plastic ruler used to
guide a rotary cutter.
rue A strip of fabric that’s cut and gathered in such a
way as to create fullness.
running stitch A basic stitch in hand sewing and embroi-
dery that’s created by passing a needle in and out of a
fabric.
seam The point at which two layers of fabric are sewn
together.
seam allowance The amount of fabric between the seam
and the cut edge.
260 Appendix
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selvage The tightly woven edge of a fabric along the
lengthwise grain.
serge To finish the edges of a fabric with a serger.
set-in sleeve A sleeve made separately and then joined
to the body of a garment by a seam that starts at the under-
arm and continues all the way around the armhole.
shank (button) Created by using a premade attached
shank button or thread shank. The shank raises the button
above the garment, allowing the buttonhole space under
the button to lie flat in order to avoid distortion of the garment.
shirring Parallel rows of gathered stitches. Shirring can
also be done with elastic thread.
shrinkage When a fabric or garment becomes smaller
than its original size, usually through laundering.
slipstitch A hand stitch sewn from right to left used to
join two folded edges together with very small, hardly vis-
ible stitches.
smocking An embroidery technique using decorative
stitching to hold rows of small pleats. Smocking is usually
sewn in a bodice.
stabilizer Materials used in sewing to hold fabric flat so
it’s more easily stitched. Interfacing can act as a stabilizer.
staystitching A row of stitches around a curve used to
keep the curve from becoming distorted while sewing.
stitch in the ditch Stitching right into the seam where
the two fabrics meet, so the stitching is barely visible.
tack Similar to baste, large stitches used to temporarily
hold the fabric in place and then removed after the final
stitching is complete.
tailor’s chalk A small piece of hard chalk used to mark on
fabric.
tailor’s ham See pressing ham.
tension The pressure placed on both the upper and lower
threads while machine sewing.
topstitch Finished stitching on the right side of a fabric.
tuck A narrow pleat sewn down the length of the fold,
often done in rows.
turn out Turning a project or piece of clothing to the right
side.
twill tape A packaged cotton fabric tape made from a
diagonal weave.
underlining A layer of fabric placed behind each fabric
piece to stabilize and hide construction details.
understitch A stitch used to sew the facing to the
seam allowance, but not the finished layer of the garment.
Understitching keeps the facing from rolling out to the right
side.
Velcro The brand name for a common hook-and-loop
fastener.
vent The opening on the lower part of the back of a
jacket or skirt that has a facing.
walking foot A sewing machine foot used to guide sev-
eral layers of fabric under the foot together as one unit. It
prevents the fabrics from being pulled apart or shifting.
warp The lengthwise grain of a fabric.
weft The crosswise grain of a fabric.
welt A narrow strip of fabric used to reinforce an edge or
opening. It’s often found in a welt pocket.
woven A type of fabric made by weaving yarn on a loom.
wrong side The inside or backside of a piece of fabric;
the unfinished side.
yoke Usually found at the neck or waist of a garment,
the fitted piece that attaches to the hanging portion of the
garment.
zigzag A machine stitch sewn from side to side.
zipper foot A sewing machine presser foot used to sew a
zipper or other trims with raised edges.
261Glossary
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