Index
A
appliqué, 140‑143
basic appliqué steps, 141‑142
double layer, 140, 142
fusible web, 141
printed fabric, 142
raw edge, 140
reverse appliqué steps, 143
satin stitch, 140
styles, 140
template, 141
B
backstitch, 37, 42
button, 37
purpose, 37
steps, 37
basting
collar, 164
curved hems, 172
gathering a ruffle, 90
purpose, 37
beaded trim, 70
bias, 10
bias tape, 76‑79
binding edges, 76‑77
blanket binding, 82
double fold, 82
extrawide double‑fold bias, 76
making your own, 80‑83
materials needed, 76
mitering a corner, 79
purposes, 76
quilt binding, 82
sewing a bias tape hem, 78
single fold, 82
stitch in the ditch, 77
types of, 82
262 Idiot’s Guides: Sewing
blanket binding, 82
blanket stitch, 43
blind hem stitch, 43
blind stitch foot, 29
bobbin housing, 18
bobbin loading, 24‑27
bobbin types, 25
bobbin winder, 25
diagram, 24
frontloading bobbin, 27
machine manual, 24
needle plate, 27
steps, 25
toploading bobbin, 26
bobbin thread guide, 18
bobbin winder, 18
box pleats, 128‑129
marking, 128
materials needed, 128
pressing, 129
purposes, 128
steps, 128‑129
braided trims, 70
button fitting foot, 28
buttonhole foot, 29, 110‑113
automatic buttonhole, 110
diagram, 110
machine stitching, 112
marking, 112
materials needed, 110
presser foot, 113
steps, 111‑113
stitch setting, 111
buttonhole lever, 19
buttonhole opening, 114‑115
button types, 115
button uses, 114
embroidery scissors, 114
materials needed, 114
steps, 114‑115
button sewing, 116‑117
fourhole button, 116
hand sewing, 116
handwheel, 117
machine sewing, 117
shank button, 116
twohole button, 116
C
catch stitch, 42
channel and diamond quilting, 148
clothing techniques, 156‑177
collar attachment, 163‑165
curved hems, 172‑173
French seams, 174‑175
interfacing, 158‑159
pockets, 160‑162
setting a sleeve, 166‑167
waistband, 168‑171
clothmarking pencils, 7
collar attachment, 163‑165
basting, 164
facing pieces, 164
grading, 165
materials needed, 163
pinning, 164
simplest type of collar, 163
snipping, 163
steps, 163‑165
cording foot, 29
corduroy, 13
corners and curves, 5667
corners, 62‑65
curved seams, 58‑61
crocheted lace, 70
curved hems, 172‑173
basting, 172
marking, 172
materials needed, 172
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263Index
pressing, 173
steps, 172‑173
curves. See corners and curves
cutting tools, 8
embroidery snips, 8
fabric shears, 8
paper scissors, 8
pinking shears, 8
rotary cutter with self‑healing
mat, 8
seam ripper, 8
D
darts, 132‑133
lines, 185
marking, 132
materials needed, 132
multi‑size pattern, 132
pressing, 133
purpose, 132
steps, 132‑133
decorative techniques, 138155
appliqué, 140‑143
quilting types, 146‑151
doubleturned hem, 52
drawstring ties, making, 94‑95
casing, 95
drawstring uses, 94
materials needed, 94
rotary cutter, 94
steps, 9495
dry clean only fabric, 14
E
ease stitching points, 185
edge trims, 73
fabric marking, 73
purposes, 73
rickrack uses, 73
steps, 73
elastic, sewing with, 96‑99
casing tube, 97
elastic casing, 96‑97
elastic ruffle, 98
example, 96
exposed elastic, 99
flat elastic, 99
materials needed, 96
safety pin, 96
steps, 96‑99
types of elastic, 96
zigzag stitch, 98
elastic thread, shirring with, 92‑93
backstitching, 93
bobbin winding, 92
description of shirring, 92
marking, 92
materials needed, 92
pressing, 93
steps, 92‑93
embroidery scissors, 8, 114
e‑patterns, 181
eye of the needle, 40
F
fabric, understanding. See preparation
fabric defined, 10‑11
adjustment for stripes, plaids, or
large prints, 11
bias, 10
right side, 10
selvage, 10
warp threads, 10
weft threads, 10
wrong side, 10
yardage conversion chart, 11
fabric direction, 174
fabric grain, 15
fabric nap, 12
fabric preparation, 14‑15
dry clean only fabric, 14
fabric grain, 15
fat quarter, 15
notions, 14
preshrinking, 14
sizing, 14
fabric shears, 8
fabric types, 12‑13
corduroy, 13
fabric nap, 12
fleece, 13
knit fabrics, 12, 13
printed cotton, 13
silk, 13
solid cotton, 13
warp knit, 12
weft knit, 12
wool, 13
wovens versus knits, 12
fasteners, 102‑123
buttonhole foot, 110‑113
buttonhole opening, 114‑115
button sewing, 116‑117
hooks and eyes, 118
snaps and Velcro, 119
zipper foot, 104‑105, 107‑108
zipper insertion, 106109
fat quarter, 15
feed dog position, 19
feet, 28‑29
blind stitch foot, 29
button fitting foot, 28
buttonhole foot, 29
cording foot, 29
invisible zipper foot, 29
monogramming foot, 29
overcasting foot, 28
standard foot, 28
steps to insert, 29
types, 28‑29
zigzag foot, 28‑29
zipper foot, 29
finishes. See trims and finishes
flat elastic, 99
fleece, 13
flexible tape measure, 7
fold line, 182
foot controller jack, 19
fourhole button, 116
free motion quilting, 150
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264 Idiot’s Guides: Sewing
French seams, 174‑175
description, 174
fabric direction, 174
fabric type, 174
inside view, 175
loose threads, 175
materials needed, 174
pressing, 174
steps, 174‑175
frontloading bobbin, 27
fusible interfacing, 145, 158‑159
fusible web, 136, 141
G–H
gathers. See ruffles and gathers
grain line, 183
grosgrain, 70
handsewing needles, 6
handwheel, 18, 19
hems, curved, 172‑173. See also seams
and hems
basting, 172
marking, 172
materials needed, 172
pressing, 173
steps, 172‑173
highquality thread, 22
hook closure, 171
hooks and eyes, 118
common place to use, 118
description, 118
hook and bar closure, 118
steps, 118
I–J
interfacing, 158‑159
colors, 158‑159
fusible, 145, 158‑159
glue, 168
knit interfacing, 159
nonwoven interfacing, 159
purposes, 158
selection, 159
sew‑in, 158‑159
types, 158
weights, 158
woven interfacing, 159
invisible zipper foot, 29
ironing board, 9
jersey needles, 23
K–L
knife pleats, 126‑127
folding of fabric, 126
materials needed, 126
pinning, 126
pressing, 127
ruler, 126
steps, 126127
knits, 12‑13
interfacing, 159
knit stretch, 12
warp knit, 12
weft knit, 12
wovens versus knits, 12
lace, 70
large prints, yardage adjustment for, 11
M
magnetic pincushion, 6
measuring tools, 7
clear, plastic ruler, 7
clothmarking pencils, 7
flexible tape measure, 7
seam gauge, 7
watererasable marker, 7
metallic lace, 70
monogramming foot, 29
N–O
needle
eye, 40
faulty, 39
hand‑sewing, 6
machine sewing, 23
position, 18, 61
threader, 6,18, 40
threading, 40
nonwoven interfacing, 159
notches, 169, 182
notions, preshrinking of, 14
operation panel, 18
outline quilting, 150
overcasting foot, 28
P
paper scissors, 8
patterns, 178‑185
laying out and cutting, 184‑185
markings, 182‑183
multi‑size, 132
reading the envelope, 180‑181
pinking shears, 8, 50
pins and needles, 6
handsewing needles, 6
magnetic pincushion, 6
needle threader, 6
safety pins, 6
straight pins, 6
stuffed pincushion, 6
piping, 70, 74‑75
bias strips, 74
common use, 74
definition, 74
materials needed, 74
premade, 74
steps, 7475
pivoting, 63
plaids, yardage adjustment for, 11
pleated grosgrain ribbon, 70
uuAppendixes_Sewing.indd 264 5/23/13 3:41 PM
265Index
pleats, tucks, and darts, 124‑137
box pleats, 128‑129
darts, 132‑133
knife pleats, 126‑127
tucks, 130‑131
pockets, 160‑162
backstitching, 162
materials needed, 160
needle position, 161
pattern, 160
pinning, 162
pressing, 161
purposes, 160
steps, 160‑162
polyester thread, 22
power button, 19
power cord jack, 19
preparation, 4‑15
cutting tools, 8
fabric defined, 10‑11
fabric preparation, 14‑15
fabric types, 12‑13
measuring tools, 7
pins and needles, 6
pressing tools, 9
preshrinking, 14
presser foot, 19, 36
pressing cloth, 9
pressing tools, 9
ironing board, 9
pressing cloth, 9
roller towel, 9
sleeve board, 9
steam iron, 9
wooden point turner, 9
prick stitch, 42
printed cotton, 13
Q
quilt binding tape, 82
quilting types, 146‑151
batting, 147, 153
channel and diamond quilting, 148
free motion quilting, 150
outline quilting, 150
quilt block, 150
rotary cutter, 147
stitch in the ditch quilting, 149
technique description, 146
tools, 147
walking foot, 149
R
rayon thread, 22
reverse appliqué, 143
reverse stitch, 18
rickrack trim, 70, 73
roller towel, 9
rotary cutter, 147
making bias tape, 81
making drawstring ties, 94
selfhealing mat and, 8
ruffles and gathers, 88‑101
elastic, sewing with, 96‑99
gathering a ruffle, 90‑91
making drawstring ties, 94‑95
shirring with elastic thread, 92‑93
ruler, 7
running stitch, 43
S
safety pins, 6, 95
satin ribbon, 70
seam allowance, clipping, 58
seam gauge, 7
seam ripper, 8, 51, 108
seams, curved, 58‑61
inward curve, 58‑59
materials needed, 58
needle position, 61
notching, 61
outward curve, 6061
presser foot, 60
pressing, 59
scissors, 58
seam allowance, 58
seams and hems, 46‑55
hem, sewing, 52‑53
seam finishes, 50‑51
straight seam, sewing and pressing,
4849
selvage, 10
sewing machine, 16‑31
anatomy, 1819
bobbin loading, 24‑27
feet, 28‑29
needles, 23
tension and stitch adjustment,
30‑31
threading, 2022
sew‑in interfacing, 158‑159
shank button, 116
sharp needles, 23
shirring with elastic thread, 92‑93
backstitching, 93
bobbin winding, 92
description of shirring, 92
marking, 92
materials needed, 92
pressing, 93
steps, 92‑93
silk, 13
sizing, preshrinking and, 14
sleeve, setting, 166167
ease, 166‑167
materials needed, 166
pressing, 166‑167
staystitching, 166
steps, 166‑167
sleeve board, 9
snaps, 119
solid cotton, 13
speed control, 18
spool pin, 19
standard foot, 28
staystitching, 166
steam iron, 9
stitch in the ditch, 77, 171
stitch in the ditch quilting, 149
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266 Idiot’s Guides: Sewing
stitching basics, 34‑45
backstitch, 37
basting, 37
securing the thread, 41
stitch types, 42‑43
straight stitch, 36
tension, 39
thimble, 41
threading a needle, 40
zigzag stitch, 38
stitch selection chart, 18
straight seam, sewing and pressing,
4849
straight stitch, 36
stripes, yardage adjustment for, 11
T
take‑up lever, 18
tape measure, 7
tension and stitch adjustment, 30‑31,
39
balanced thread, 39
bobbin thread, 39
buttons, 31
digital control panel, 30, 31
faulty needle, 39
incorrect tension, 39
machine manual, 30
needle position button, 30
rethreading, 39
reverse button, 30
speed control lever, 30
stitch selection, 31
tension adjustment, 30
tension dial, 18, 30
thimble, 41
thread
cutter, 18
elastic, 92
guide, 18
highquality, 22
polyester, 22
rayon, 22
securing, 41
tension, 39
throat plate, 18, 49
tools. See preparation
toploading bobbin, 26
topstitching, 137
trims and finishes, 68‑85
bias tape, 76‑79
bias tape, making your own, 80‑83
edge trims, 73
piping, 74‑75
sewn in seam, 72
trim types, 70‑71
tucks, 130‑131
fabric type, 130
materials needed, 130
pressing, 130
purposes, 130
sewing, 131
steps, 130‑131
twill tape, 145
twin needles, 23
twohole button, 116
U–V
universal needles, 23
Velcro, 119
W–X
waistband, how to make, 168‑171
backstitching, 170
finishing with hook closure, 171
interfacing, 168
marking, 168
materials needed, 168
notch alignment, 169
overlapping sides, 170
steps, 168‑171
stitch in the ditch, 171
stitching, 169
trimming, 169, 171
walking foot, 149
warp threads, 10
watererasable marker, 7
weft threads, 10
whipstitch, 43
wooden point turner, 9
wool, 13
woven interfacing, 159
Y–Z
yardage conversion chart, 11
zigzag foot, 28, 29
zigzag stitch, 38, 98
buttonhole, 112
purposes, 38
seam finishing, 51
stitch length, 38
stitch selector, 38
stitch width, 38
zipper foot, 29, 104‑105
inserting, 104‑105
needle position, 105
purpose, 104
steps, 104‑105
uses, 104
zipper types, 105
zipper insertion, 106109
patience, 106
pinning, 107
seam ripper, 108
sides of fabric, 106
steps, 106‑109
zipper coil, 107
zipper foot, 107‑108
zipper shortening, 109
uuAppendixes_Sewing.indd 266 5/23/13 3:41 PM
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