163Chapter 11: Basic Clothing Techniques
The most common way to finish a neck opening is by
attaching a collar. The simplest type of collar to attach is
a convertible collar, which is sewn directly to the neckline
of the shirt without a collar stand and lined with a simple
facing to give it a clean, finished look.
You should read and follow your pattern instructions
to know the exact method for your specific project,
but on the next few pages, I show you the basic idea for
attaching a collar using a simple shirt design and a basic
pointed collar.
1 2
Sew the shoulder seams and stitch a straight stitch
around the neck opening. Sew the collar and turn
it right side out. Use an iron to press the collar and
shoulder seams open.
Snip into the seam allowance just up to the
stitching line.
Attaching a Collar
What You Need
Standard foot attachment
Scissors
Iron
Straight pins
Point turner or pencil
This is called staystitching.
Notice the small cuts are
about 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart.
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164 Part 3: More Techniques
3
4
The facing pieces provided in the pattern have
fusible interfacing applied with an iron.
The collar is sandwiched between
the shirt and the facing.
Line up the facing by matching the center front
point followed by the notches to the center back,
and pin.
Continue to pin the facing along the front and
neck edges. Be sure to keep the pieces smooth
and flat.
With the notches lined up, pin the collar to the shirt.
Start at the center in back and work your way to the
front.
Using a basting stitch, sew a straight stitch along
the edge of the collar.
The snips will help the seam
allowance stretch open.
6
5
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165Chapter 11: Basic Clothing Techniques
This is called edgestitching.
Using the recommended seam allowance, begin
straight stitching up the center front and pivot the
corner to continue sewing around the neck opening
and down the other side.
Trim corners and curves using the techniques you
learned earlier in the book. Grade the seam allow-
ances for a crisp edge. Turn the fabric right side
out.
With the seam allowance pointing down toward
the facing and the shirt back pushed out of the
way, straight stitch along the neck seam.
Use a point turner to get crisp,
pointed corners.
9
Collar and shirt back
Facing
7 8
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