Understanding the Markings
To some, patterns may seem like reading Greek. However, once you become
familiar with the markings, you should have no problem following the pattern
instructions and successfully making something new.
Lengthening and
shortening line
Cutting line
Transfer markings
(here a dart line)
Notches
Pattern number and
name of piece
andvariation
Fold line (here also used
as the grain line)
182 Part 3: More Techniques
Cut number
Size lines
CUT 1 ON FOLD6963
BACK - C, D
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Important things to notice:
The grain line is a line with an arrow at each end.
Line up the piece so the grain is the same as the fab-
ric. Most grain line arrows go straight up and down,
while some are on the diagonal.
Place the fold line on the folded edge of the fabric;
don’t cut along this side.
You can lengthen a pattern by cutting it apart on
the designated lines and adding the desired amount
in between the two pieces. Simply tape them
together to create a longer piece. Be sure to add the
same amount to any other piece—for example, the
front and back of a shirt should both be lengthened
equal amounts.
Notice any transfer markings on the pattern,
such as button or buttonhole placement, dart lines,
or pocket guides. These markings will need to be
drawn on the actual fabric piece.
Notches are used to match up certain sections of
two different pieces. Cut them out into the seam
allowance, away from the pattern piece.
Pay attention to the cut” number. Is it cut 1 on fold,
cut 1, or cut 2? This is very important. Be sure to
notice this when deciding the best layout of all the
pieces on your fabric. If your piece is cut 1, you will
not need to have the fabric folded with two layers
when cutting it out.
The cutting line is the thin black line around
the outside edge of the piece. Cut just outside it
through the fabric.
Multi-size patterns are available to cut at different
sizes. Each size line is dashed and dotted in a dif-
ferent pattern. Pay special attention to this when
cutting out your desired size.
183Chapter 12: Patterns
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Cutting line
Multi-size cutting lines
Grainlines
Place-to-fold line
Alteration lines
Seamline or stitching line
Seam allowance
Center front or back
Hem allowance
Hemline
Buttonhole
Combined button
and buttonhole
Button position
Dart
Pleat
Tuck
Bust point or hipline
Waist or hipline
Markings to be transferred
from pattern pieces to the
fabric for matching or to
indicate detail
Single notches
Double notches
Triple notches
Zipper placement
Patterns include a set of universal sym-
bols and markings. Here is what you’ll
find:
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