HOME SWEET HOME: COOPS AND RUNS

NOW THAT YOUR CHICKS are ready to head outdoors, you need a coop, a structure that protects poultry from predators and weather and provides a dry, covered area to prevent feed and water from getting soiled or spoiled. You’ll also need at least one run, a fencing structure outside the coop that protects chickens from predators and keeps them from wandering into inappropriate places—such as your neighbor’s yard.

[ A model coop has a solid structure and a run big enough to assure your flock security and exercise. ]

Some chicken tractors are a single story with a run attached outside the screened area. Others are two stories with the run on the bottom.

There are many benefits to housing your chickens in a tractor comparable to those described above. It fits perfectly in a yard without much space or a large field. It effectively keeps your chickens safe and fertilizes your garden with the birds’ fecal matter. By moving the tractor one rotation every day, you can fertilize your yard, provide your chickens with fresh grass and bugs, and avoid creating the bare spot in your yard that a stationary coop does.

In fact, in our opinion, the only negative of a chicken tractor is that to avoid creating a bare spot where it sits, you have to keep moving it. (Andy has six bantam hens in his chicken tractor and has to move it every two to three days. It may not sound like much, but adding this step is sometimes too much, especially on rainy days.) The good news is that a chicken tractor can turn into a stationary coop if this works better for you.

Another benefit to a mobile coop is that it helps circumvent some city laws regarding poultry or building coops. Some require that permanent structures sit a specific number of feet or meters from a fence line or dwelling. But these laws may exclude a mobile coop by not considering it a permanent or accessory structure.

A movable coop has many advantages for your chickens, as well as the benefit to you in being able to control fertilization of specific parts of your yard.

This urban coop is beautifully appointed and illustrates the value of planning your structure inside and out before construction.

A doghouse can be an ideal setup to get you started in keeping chickens.

If you modify something you already had, think about sharp objects. Repair old wire, fix broken windows, and pick up any nails you see. Drag a large, strong magnet along the ground to pick up nails, staples, screws, or any other small objects the chickens might accidentally eat. Repair holes and make the facility as draft-free as possible without losing adequate ventilation. Make special modifications for your specific breeds, such as long-tailed fowl or one of the many bantam breeds. Finally, run your hands over the surfaces to check for sharp objects.

Keep in mind that a clean coop is less likely to harbor disease or parasites. The smaller the coop, the more difficult it is to get inside and clean thoroughly—and the less likely cleaning will happen, period, especially if it means kneeling down in the mud or trying to move around in cramped conditions.

There should be one nesting box for every four hens. Raising the nest boxes off the ground is a good plan. Attaching the nest boxes to the wall will free up some floor space.

Feeders should be placed in the coop or in a covered run to prevent rainwater from causing mold in the feed.

Keeping waterers outside in the run is fine, except during the coldest winter months when freezing may occur.

The best possible run you can build for your chickens is one where the outside space has a solid cover, as shown in the illustration, to prevent entry by wild birds and aerial predators.

A secure fence, one with a locking gate, should have wire at the base that is buried at least 18 to 24 inches (45.7 to 61 cm) underground to prevent entry by digging predators.

A coop, such as the one shown in the illustration, would typically have netting over the yard area to protect the flock from wild birds.

Windows are a great way to ventilate the coop, especially in the hot summer months. Be sure to cover the windows with chicken wire or 1/4 inch (6 mm) hardware cloth to prevent the entry of predators. A good working latch is essential to prevent entry from nimble-fingered predators, such as raccoons.

Inside the coop, roosting poles provide a place for the chickens to rest at night.

Best-case scenario, a coop should include six components: a nesting box, a roosting pole, a proper floor, a feeder, a waterer, and a run. As the example ideas for coops show, these requirements are somewhat flexible.

Know that even if you provide your notion of the perfect nesting box for your chickens, when they first start to lay, they may choose someplace else. We frequently hear stories from frustrated owners who tell us their chickens are old enough to start laying but haven’t yet produced eggs. We tell them to look around the yard; there will be eggs somewhere. We’ve heard of eggs found in old tires, flowerpots, and even pine straw piles. Once you locate them, pick them up and put them in the nesting box where you want your hens to lay. Hens will typically follow suit, laying wherever they see their eggs.

Most nesting boxes are built from wood in 12 x 12 x 12 inch (30 x 30 x 30 cm) squares, but there are many other options. For example, a milk crate, litter box, or other similarly sized plastic bin turned on its side can work well, or you can purchase metal nesting boxes.

You’ll end up with a row of cubes with open fronts mounted to the wall, preferably with nothing stored beneath. If you are rearing large birds such as Langshans, Brahmas, or Jersey Giants, build your nest boxes larger. What might work for Lady Leghorn simply will not do for Miss Jersey Giant.

To protect the eggs from breaking once they’re laid, the nesting box needs bedding material or a liner. A 2-inch (5 cm) layer of shavings works well. You also can purchase a nesting box pad from most online poultry supply stores. Avoid using straw. It can cause health problems in chicks such as the fungal infection Aspergillosis (see chapter 10).

Nesting boxes can be constructed of metal or wood. You can construct your own or purchase them from many vendors.

Position the roosting pole 2 feet (60 cm) or higher off the coop floor, with soft bedding underneath. (Chickens jump off the roost each morning, so a cushioned layer can prevent injury.) An average roost measures 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter for standard breeds and smaller for bantams—a smaller version of large fowl breeds approximately one-fifth the size of large fowl. On average, chickens need about 1 foot (30 cm) of roosting space per bird. If you need more than one roosting bar in your coop to provide all of your birds ample area, space the bars at least 2 feet (60 cm) apart. Position them at the same level or create a tiered effect.

The positioning of the roosting poles is key to for the comfort and safety of your flock. See the illustration shown here for more information about placement.

Both permanent and wire floors are quite secure when it comes to protecting your chickens from predators that dig. Know, however, that without a tray under a wire floor, some predators may try to eat or grab your chickens’ toes and pull them through the holes. When designing your coop, be sure to protect the area from predators. (Chapter 8 goes into detail about predator protection.)

Consider the run carefully when designing the coop. Cover it with a solid roof or if that’s not possible, netting such as 1-inch (2.5 cm), double-knotted aviary netting to keep out even the smallest of wild birds (and even some climbing predators). Wild birds carry diseases and parasites that can harm your flock. Also, keep the run away from birdfeeders to avoid attracting problematic wild birds that will want to eat your chickens’ feed.

A secured area for ranging and socialization needs to be placed for maximum benefit. In addition to a stationary setup, you might consider a portable run.

Also, bury the bottom edge of the wire surrounding the run at least 18 inches (45 cm) but as far down as 2 feet (60 cm) to prevent predators from digging in. If renting a trencher or digging holes in your yard is not an option, bending out the wire 18 to 24 inches (45 to 60 cm) from the edge has the same effect. Don’t worry about aesthetics; grass will eventually grow over the bent-out wire, hiding it from sight.

Some runs have concrete flooring, but this isn’t always the best option. Though it is easy to clean with a pressure washer, it doesn’t allow the chickens the opportunity to forage, scratch, and take dust baths if you have no bedding over the concrete. Hay looks beautiful for the first few days or until it rains. Then it gets matted down, spoils, and produces an odor and moisture that can lead to respiratory distress for the birds.

Modern-day planning for coop-run design incorporates up to four separate runs where you can rotate the chickens. In one pen, plant winter wheat for them to enjoy in the spring. In another, plant sunflowers or corn for built-in summer shade. In a third, put in combinations of clover or other grasses that are hardy growers for your region. Rotating your hens in different runs that surround your coop ensures that they get the necessary exercise and enrichment they need without leaving behind a muddy, denuded pen. Many flock owners use this sustainable pen-rotation method. (For more on getting your yard ready, turn back to chapter 4.)

Regardless of whether you have multiple runs or just one, here’s how to clean a run:

Rake up chicken feces.

Till the ground inside the chicken run to loosen the soil and create drainage. Add seed if doing a run rotation.

Add a layer of pulverized or powdered lime to the floor in excessively wet or smelly areas. The lime reduces any smell from the chicken waste. Block this off from the birds for a couple days. (Do not do this if you will be planting seed.)

Add a 3- to 4-inch (8 to 10 cm) layer of woodchips on top. This step is optional. We recommend large woodchips for the run because they do not biodegrade as quickly as the smaller ones do, meaning less frequent replacing required. Straw is not recommended for outdoor runs because it is nonabsorbent and will likely become matted.

Here's another consideration: Do you have enough space for the breed to perform its natural behaviors without overcrowding? This becomes problematic with small coops, especially when it’s too snowy outdoors for walking around. A coop is more than an overnight space in which to roost; it’s where the birds remain when the weather outside is too dangerous or uncomfortable. For example, chickens dislike walking on cold surfaces. Therefore, when snow covers the ground outside, they may choose to stay indoors. Eventually they begin to feel “cooped up” and may peck at each other, pace, or stress out. These stresses open the door to disease. Even if snows last only a week, keep an eye on your birds for signs of coughing, sneezing, or stressed behavior such as feather pecking.

Also, chickens like to take dust baths. (Chicks as young as four weeks old will perform natural dust bathing behavior in the brooder if you give them a small container of dirt.) It is an innate comfort behavior for poultry. By dust bathing, chickens kick dust, dirt, or sand up against their skin, which helps them remove external parasites. You may wish to periodically provide chickens with a sand-filled container in which they can bathe. This will prevent hens from creating a dust bowl—a divot that can extend down as far as 20 inches (50 cm) in the bottom of your coop—that can cause you, the owner, many a twisted ankle. It is indeed not a pleasant situation.

It is wise to record the hours of sunlight and shade seasonally before making a final decision about the placement of your coop.

Different breeds have different temperature tolerance levels. (Turn back to chapter 2 for descriptions of several breeds.) Do your research before purchasing chicks to find a breed well suited to your area. The American Poultry Association lists large fowl breeds by region. If you live in colder climates, breeds developed in England, Australia, the United States, and Canada are cold-hardy. Some of these include Chantecler (the only Canadian breed), Australorp (the only Australian breed), Orpington, Dorking, Sussex, Plymouth Rock, Holland, Java, Lamona, Rhode Island White, Rhode Island Red, Buckeye, and New Hampshire.

Through the popularity of bantam breeds and the fact that you can raise more per square foot than large fowl, more breeds of bantams have been developed. Breeds such as the Dutch, Japanese, and Sebright only come in bantam sizes. These breeds are smaller and less able to keep themselves warm during the coldest parts of winter. Provide them with extra warmth for longer than you would for large fowl.

Remember, just about any heat source is a fire hazard so use caution when heating your coop. If you’re worried about the cold temperatures, rather than heating your coop, a better choice might be to insulate it and protect your chickens from any drafts. Also, keep in mind the importance of ventilation and the fact that chickens will eat any insulation not covered by plywood or another solid building material.

While most people worry only about cold temperatures, hot temperatures also negatively affect chickens. That’s why your coop needs good ventilation during summer and wintertime. Many people think it’s best to seal up a coop in the winter. Some even jokingly mention wrapping the coop in a cling wrap. But having an airtight coop can cause more problems than cold for chickens. Ventilation helps control moisture buildup that, when mixed with chicken waste, can lead to mold growth and ammonia buildup. Good ventilation also reduces heat buildup and dust accumulation in the summer. Windows are effective vents, as are openings left at the top of the coop covered by hardware cloth. Incorporate at least two ventilation sections (one to let air in; one to let air out) to aid in airflow.

We encourage people to purchase the largest feeder and waterer available that they can afford and for which they have room. The best are those specifically designed for poultry, which your local feed-and-seed store should carry. Even with a small flock, the larger the feeder and waterer in your coop, the less frequently you need to refill them. Adult laying hens need 4 inches (10 cm) of feeder space and 1 inch (2.5 cm) of waterer space per bird, so factor in this detail when making these purchases.

When possible, place the chicken feed and water inside the coop because it protects the weather from soiling or spoiling them. Also, just as we suggested for the brooder, we recommend hanging the feeder and waterer in the coop (no higher than the chickens’ back level). Chickens use their feet to scratch through feed, scattering it on the ground. They eat very little of this, which creates a lot of waste. Hanging their feed eliminates their ability to scratch through the feed and reduces the amount of waste. Leaving a waterer on the ground increases the chance the chickens may soil the water by stepping in it, defecating in it, or tossing woodchips up into the base. We typically place waterers on large patio blocks. The best waterers are the cleanest, and that means using a closed water system like a nipple drinker.

A supply of clean, fresh water is necessary for a chicken’s healthy body systems and to maintain a consistent body temperature.

There are three schools of thought about when to run additional light:

First thing in the morning. If you set the light to come on early in the morning, you wake your chickens earlier, which may lead to more noise early in the morning. Often roosters crow with the first light. Even without a rooster, a hen reacts to light by eating, drinking, laying—and cackling. In urban areas, this may disturb you or your neighbors during sleeping hours.

Last thing at night. Turn on the light at sundown and continue lighting until your chickens have seen fourteen hours of light. Using this method, the noise the hens produce doesn’t bother as many people and creates fewer problems all around.

Some in the morning, some at night. This may result in the same noise problem as adding light in the morning, just not as early.

Timers can be added to any light source so you can adjust when the light comes on or turns off based on your preference. They are usually inexpensive and easy to install.

Runs are a little harder to secure against predators, but it can be done. Bury any fencing 18 to 24 inches (45 to 60 cm) deep to prevent digging predators from gaining access. For more protection, install poultry netting (somewhat expensive) or deer netting (cheaper but weaker than poultry netting) above the run/coop area to halt flying predators such as hawks and owls. A predator that tries to climb across deer netting will most likely rip it and fall right into the run. Snow can also cause problems with deer netting; as the snow accumulates and weighs down the netting, it can rip from where it is secured. You’ll need to replace deer netting more frequently than poultry netting because it rots faster. Poultry or aviary netting is more permanent.

One of the best predator-proof coops we have ever seen was built when the chicken owner dug a 2 x 2 foot (60 x 60 cm) trench around his entire coop. He then placed a chain-link fence down into the trench, and poured in concrete. Next, he attached basic chicken wire to the inside of the chain-link fence to keep out smaller predators and pests. On the top of the run, he installed a chain-link fence to eliminate predators from the air, as well as climbing predators such as raccoons and opossums.

Make sure to consider your chicks when predator-proofing the coop. Chicks are little escape artists, plus predators such as rodents, snakes, and weasels take them without a second thought. Before putting your chicks into the coop, get down on your hands and knees to check for holes and then seal them up. Finally, count your chicks twice a day.

Never underestimate the power of a predator. Protection is the major consideration when constructing coops and runs. Install reliable locking systems and high-quality wire for security.

To rid the coop of mold, bacteria, viruses, and other harmful organisms, here’s how to do a thorough cleaning:

Remove chickens and put them in a safe place.

Take out the feeder and water to clean those pieces of equipment.

Remove all bedding.

Rid the coop of cobwebs and dust and then clean all surfaces with warm, soapy water. Let it dry overnight.

Clean it with a disinfectant the next day and then follow the label instructions, washing it off after the appropriate amount of time.

Rinse the coop clean, let it dry overnight, and then put everything back in, including the chickens.

Inspect your coops and runs on a regular basis, and make repairs in a timely manner to discourage predators.

As far as inside the coop, check nesting boxes weekly for buildup of chicken waste. The nesting boxes should not contain much chicken waste; if they do, they’re too comfortable and are acting as beds for your birds. If using plastic nesting box liners, hose off dirt or feces, scrub clean with a brush and soapy water, let dry, place into a bucket of disinfectant, and then let the liner dry before placing it back into the nesting box. Add fresh shavings if you are not using a liner, as needed, to protect the eggs. This also is a good time to look for mites (which we discuss further in chapter 10) or signs of them in the nesting boxes. Check the roost monthly for splinters or sharp edges that could injure your chickens’ feet and lead to bumble foot. While cleaning inside the coop, look around the base of the trashcan that holds your feed for any holes created by mice or rats trying to gain access.

Finally, clean the feeder and waterer as needed. Use a hose and scrub brush to scrub out dirt, mold, or algae growth. Adding about 1/4 cup (60 ml) of apple cider vinegar to a 5-gallon (19 L) plastic or ceramic waterer will reduce algae growth during the summer (although scientists have not yet fully analyzed the benefits versus the drawbacks of doing this). Alternate this with fresh, clean water.

Maintaining your coop properly prevents injury and disease in your birds.

Note: NEVER put apple cider vinegar in galvanized waterers—it will react with the metal and harm the chickens.