- Title Page
- Copyright Page
- Dedication Page
- Acknowledgments
- Other Books By Scott Kelby
- About the Author
- Table of Contents
- Chapter One. Shooting People Like a Pro: Yet Even More Tips to Make People Look Their Very Best
- 9 Things You’ll Wish You Had Known...
- ...Before Reading This Book!
- That Was Only 6. Here Are the Last 3
- Getting Shallow Depth of Field with Studio Strobes
- Shooting Multiple Exposures In-Camera
- One Person, Multiple Times, in the Same Shot
- How to Freeze Motion in Portraits
- Avoid Seeing Too Much “Whites of the Eyes”
- More Tips for Great Group Shots
- Better Than the Self Timer for Group Shots
- Focus on the Subject’s Eye, Then Recompose
- That Works Unless You’re Shooting at f/1.4
- Creating the Blown-Out Look
- A Better Way to Direct Your Subject’s Posing
- Only Photographers Care About the Characteristics of Catch Lights
- What Not to Shoot with Your 50mm Lens
- Getting Both What’s in Front & Back in Focus
- Two Quick Composition Tips
- How to Get Better Full-Length Photos
- Controlling the Size of Your Subject
- Chapter Two. Using Hot Shoe Flash Like a Pro, Part 3: Picking Right Up Where the Last Book Left Off
- Shooting Your Flash in Manual Mode
- The Trick to Keep from Lighting the Ground
- Using Studio-Quality Softboxes with Your Flash
- Mounting a Flash on a Monopod
- How to Put the Background Out of Focus Using Flash
- Don’t Have a Gel? Change Your White Balance
- Put Nikon’s Commander Mode One Click Away
- Making Your Flash Fire Every Time
- Creating a Tight Beam of Light
- The Advantages of Using Flash in Daylight
- How to Use Your Hot Shoe Flash’s Modeling Light
- Keep Your Flash from Powering Off
- How Far to Place the Flash from the Umbrella
- Why Would Anyone Use Studio Strobes On Location?
- Chapter Three. More Tips on Using Your Studio Like a Pro: In Volume 3, We Took It Up a Notch. Now, Let’s Do It Again!
- The Pro Trick for Creating Falloff
- Getting a Different Look Without Moving the Lights
- Using Lens Flare as an Effect in the Studio
- How Far Should Your Subject Be from the Background?
- Let Your Main Light Do Double Duty
- Rim-Light Profile Silhouettes Made Easy
- Using a Ring Flash
- Use Almost Any Softbox You Want with Your Brand of Strobe
- When It Comes to Softboxes, Bigger Really Is Better
- What to Do When You Can’t Turn Your Strobe Power Down Any Further
- How to Light a Couple or Small Group
- The Trick to Staying Out of Trouble
- Where to Put Your Softbox Demystified, Part I
- Where to Put Your Softbox Demystified, Part II
- Let Lightroom Fix Your Color as You Shoot
- How to Set a Custom White Balance In-Camera
- Taking Your Existing Strobes On Location
- Chapter Four. More Tips on Lenses: Going Way Beyond Which Lens to Use
- Why Your Background Is Still in Focus at f/2.8
- What You Need to Know About Lens Compression
- Seeing a Real Preview of Your Depth of Field
- Auto-Correcting the Fisheye Lens Effect in Photoshop
- Shoot at the F-Stop You Bought the Lens For
- How to Deal with Lens Fogging
- Avoiding Sensor Dust from Your Body & Lens Caps
- How to Focus Your Lens to Infinity
- Don’t Shoot at the “Beginner” Focal Lengths
- Where to Hold a Long Lens to Steady It
- Which Lens for Outdoor Portraits?
- Chapter Five. Pro Tips for Shooting in Natural Light: How to Take Advantage of the Most Beautiful Light on Earth
- Beautiful Backlit Shots
- Shooting Silhouettes
- Jay’s Trick for Not Missing the Shot
- How to Make Sure Your Sunset Looks Dark
- Tips for Using a Reflector Outdoors
- Control the “Power” of Your Reflector
- How to Deal with Underexposed Daytime Shots
- The Trick for Shooting at Night
- Shooting Light Trails
- Shooting Star Trails
- The Gear for Shooting Star Trails
- Another Reason to Avoid Shooting at High ISOs
- Chapter Six. Shooting Landscape Photos Like a Pro: Yet Even More Tips for Creating Stunning Scenic Images
- You Don’t Need Fast Lenses for Landscapes
- Three More Tips for Silky Waterfalls & Streams
- Long Exposure B&W, Part 1 (the Accessories)
- Long Exposure B&W, Part 2 (the Settings)
- Long Exposure B&W, Part 3, (the Setup)
- Long Exposure B&W, Part 4 (the Shot)
- Keeping Your Gear Dry Outdoors
- Use Grid Lines to Get Straight Horizon Lines
- Instant Duotones for Landscape Images
- Amplifying Size in Your Landscape Images
- Need a Darker Sky? Lower the Brightness
- Shoot Before a Storm or Right After It
- Doing Time-Lapse Photography
- Seek Out Still Water for Reflections
- Tip for Shooting Those Low-Angle Landscapes
- Make Your Cloudy White Balance Even Warmer
- The Landscape Image Post-Processing Secret
- What Helped My Landscape Photos the Most
- Chapter Seven. Pro Tips for Shooting Travel Photos: How to Come Back with Images You’re Really Proud Of
- Wait for the Actors to Walk Onto Your Stage
- Look for That Classic “Lone Tree” Shot
- Camera Bags That Won’t Attract the Wrong Kind of Attention
- How to Avoid Blurry Travel Shots
- My Favorite Travel Lenses
- The Trick to Capturing Real Lives
- Tourist Removal Shooting Techniques
- Learn How to Work the Scene
- Finding Which Travel Photos You Like Best
- Shooting from the Roof of Your Hotel
- Chapter Eight. Shooting Sports Like a Pro: How to Get Professional Results from Your Next Sports Shoot
- A Tip and a Secret on Panning
- Finding the Right Shutter Speed for Panning
- Freezing Motion Trick for Motorsports
- Your Problems Start at Night or Indoors
- Turn Off VR (or IS) When Shooting Sports
- The Advantage of Using Fast Memory Cards
- How the Pros Focus for Sports
- Why Many Pros Shoot Sports in JPEG
- Using a Remote Camera
- Adding a Teleconverter to Get Really Tight
- Why You Need to Shoot the Warm-Ups
- Shoot Little Details Surrounding the Event
- Getting More Football Shots In-Focus
- Chapter Nine. Shooting HDR Like a Pro: How to Shoot and Process HDR Images
- Shooting HDR: The Gear
- Shooting HDR: The Basic Idea
- Setting Up Your Camera to Shoot Bracketing
- A Canon Shooter’s HDR Helper
- What If Your Camera Doesn’t Have Bracketing?
- Which F-Stop to Use for HDR
- Don’t Shoot One Bracketed Shot at a Time
- Shooting Hand-Held HDR Shots
- Which Types of Scenes Make Good HDR Shots
- Shooting HDR Panos
- Easily Find the Images You Bracketed for HDR
- The Programs We Use for Creating HDR
- A Good Preset for Photoshop’s HDR Pro
- Sharpening HDR Photos
- The HDR Look Without Shooting HDR
- What They’re Not Telling You About HDR
- Fixing Halos & Other HDR Problems
- Chapter Ten. Pro Tips for Shooting DSLR Video: How to Get the Most Out of Your Built-In Video Capabilities
- You’re Gonna Want an Eyepiece
- Learn the Popular “Rack Focus” Technique
- Adding Effects to Your Video in Your Camera
- Why You Want an External Mic
- Bad Audio = Bad Video
- Making Certain You’re In Focus
- Don’t Shoot Video Vertical
- Why You Need to Lock Your Exposure
- F-Stops Matter Here, Too, But...
- How to Avoid “Flicker” While You’re Shooting
- Want More of a “Film” Look?
- Don’t Touch That Aperture
- Why Zooming on Your DSLR Is Different
- How to Use Autofocus for Shooting Video
- Chapter Eleven. Pro Tips for Getting Better Photos: More Tricks of the Trade for Making Your Shots Look Better
- Fit a Lot More Shots on Your Memory Card
- Sneaky Trick When You Can’t Use Your Tripod
- When Exposure Compensation Doesn’t Work
- Avoid Signs Because They Draw the Eye
- The “Gotcha” of Using Picture Styles
- Rotate Tall or Rotate Image or Both?
- Reducing Noise in Low-Light Shots
- What People Looking at Your Photos See First
- Keeping Your Camera Info from Prying Eyes
- Why JPEGs Look Better Than RAW Images
- When You Don’t Need to Shoot on a Tripod
- What to Do If Your Image Isn’t Quite Good Enough to Print
- When to Switch to Spot Metering
- Try Cinematic Cropping for a Wide-Screen Look
- Sharpening Your Images for Print
- How to Rescue a Damaged Memory Card
- Index
The Digital Photography Book, Part 4
The step-by-step secrets for how to make your photos look like the pros’!
Scott Kelby
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