Hidden Gems

Maybe you’ve already seen the most famous sights, or just want to experience something more unusual or less well known. As a photographer in Paris, there is so much to take in. Sometimes, it’s an ornate doorway or intricate iron railing. Other times, it’s an unusual building in which the architect made the most of the space available. The Pantheon and Opera Garnier, for example, would be the central attraction in many cities. Maybe you’re taken with the open-air markets that are as popular with locals as they are with visitors.

A few other locations are worth going out of your way to visit as well. Here, I highlight a few places that offer a fascinating and less-typical view of the city and its history—and potentially some great images.

Fujifilm X-E1, 55mm, ISO 800, 1/50s, f/4

Markets

Although declining, street markets are still commonplace throughout Paris. Marché Bastille is one of the largest food markets and Marché Mouffetard has its own charm, especially on Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday mornings. While most food vendors don’t mind occasional photos, those selling other merchandise are often a lot less keen on photographers.

• The Marais and Place des Vosges. The Marais is a pretty area of shopping streets, restaurants, and art galleries in the 3rd and 4th arrondissements. One of its main attractions is Place de Vosges, the oldest square in the city with beautiful covered walkways.

• Rue Montorgueil. Rue Montorgueil in the Marais is an interesting mix of shops and market stalls that includes cafes, flowers stalls, fresh fruit and vegetables, and Stohrer, which is said to be the oldest pastry shop in Paris.

• Galeries Lafayette. One of the largest department stores in Paris, Galeries Lafayette on Boulevard Haussmann also happens to have an accessible roof terrace that is high enough for good views over the city, including the Eiffel Tower.

Cemeteries

There are 14 cemeteries in Paris itself, and you can learn all about them at Les Cimetières de Paris. For photography, I recommend, in particular, visiting the following:

• Père-Lachaise. In the northeast of the city, Père-Lachaise is the most well known of the Paris cemeteries. It’s very large with more than one million people buried here, including Proust, Chopin, and Jim Morrison. It’s also a beautiful place to walk around and photograph.

• Passy Cemetery. In the west of the city, Passy Cemetery is much smaller but an intriguing place with the Eiffel Tower nearby and visible. As a diversion from the main sights of the city, this cemetery has far fewer visitors than the larger cemeteries. It much easier to look around Passy in its entirety, but it does close relatively early so check the hours before you go.

Other Interesting Spots

A few other locations offer rich history but don’t get much attention. They may not have the grandeur of the best-known sights, but if you’re looking for something more quirky and less visited, here are a few suggestions.

Petite Ceinture

The Petite Ceinture (Little Belt) is a 20-mile (32-kilometer) abandoned steam train rail line that served central Paris before the arrival of the Metro system. Unfortunately, only small sections are officially open to the public. Some sections, however, have been converted for modern use, such as some of RER line C in the west of the city. Like the Promenade Plantée, it offers something different with a sense of comparative tranquility and scenes of nature (and graffiti artists) reclaiming what was once a busy transport route. One half-mile (800-meter) stretch is said to offer access to the Paris Catacombs.

The main public sections are between La Muette (behind the old La Muette station, now a bar called La Gare) and Porte d’Auteuil, and between Balard and rue Olivier de Serres. For more information, see France Today and Any Port in a Storm.

Rue Crémieux

Close to the Gare du Lyon, rue Crémieux is a residential street with similar houses that are beautifully painted in a variety of colors. It is pedestrian friendly and usually quiet, making it an ideal spot for some photographs.

Goussainville Ghost Town

Goussainville is a town that’s about 12 miles to the north of Paris. Or rather, it’s two towns. The original Goussainville was a typical quiet town until a plane crash during a 1973 airshow destroyed a school and many houses. There were already concerns about the opening of the Charles de Gaulle airport nearby. Residents started to leave, many to the nearby town with the same name.

Today, you can still visit the old town, with its few remaining residents and one existing bookstore. It’s about 20 minutes walk from the “new” Goussainville RER station (on line B) to the old town. Most of the buildings are boarded up, but a few are still accessible. It’s a fascinating place with the stillness of the town broken regularly by the planes overhead. While I wouldn’t call it essential to a visit to Paris, if you like some exploring and are interested in urban decay, add this place to your list.