7
Glamour
There are many contemporary books and magazines can instruct you in the application of street makeup for contemporary female glamour. Fashions in street makeup are continually changing. This chapter will cover a few basic techniques using both theatrical makeup and street makeup for a classic, timeless twenty-first-century glamour. The following techniques should be used after you have powdered your base.
Emphasizing the Eyes
The western standard of beauty for women has, for many years, included large, deep-set eyes with a prominent brow-bone. The technique for achieving this look was demonstrated in Chapter 5. When applying makeup for glamour, and when you are not trying to hide the fact that you are wearing makeup, you can use colors that do not match your skin tone (blues, greens, etc.) and colors that have shimmer or metallic in them. However, the same basic concepts of highlight and shadow apply; use lighter colors to make features stand out and darker colors to make, features recede.
Choose two or three shades of the same color in a dry, powder eye-shadow. They can be bought separately, or you can buy three or four coordinating tones grouped in one package.
Apply the lightest color to the outer half of the brow-bone directly under the brow, and on the center of the eyelid.
Apply the darkest color to the crease above the lid.
Use the mid-tone to blend the light and dark shades. Unlike cream makeup, powder eye-shadows will not turn muddy when blended together, if they are similar in tone.
LIGHTEST SHADE ON BROW BONE AND EYELID
DARKEST SHADE IN CREASE
The western standard of beauty for women also dictates that the eyes should be as far apart as they are wide. Eyeliner is often used to make the eyes look wider apart than they actually are. Instead of beginning the eyeliner at the very inner corner of the eye, leave a space before beginning. You can also widen the liner as it reaches the outer corner of the eye. The liner on the lower lid can begin as far out as the center of the eye.
Before darkening the eyebrows, make certain that they are cleanly tweezed. The eyebrows should be brushed up and out so the hairs follow the natural arch. Follow instructions for darkening eyebrows in Chapter 5.
Mascara should be used on upper and lower lashes. If your lashes are thin, false eyelashes are available. Instructions are usually included in the packaging, As with any new products, test the adhesive to make certain that you do not have an allergic reaction.
LINER ON UPPER LID TO WIDEN EYES. Model, Devin Tumpkin
Emphasizing Asian Eyes
Asian eyes, specifically the lids, have become quite politicized. In order to "be more marketable" a number of actors and media personalities of Asian heritage have had plastic surgery to make their eyes appear more western. The following technique will not redesign, or westernize, but rather emphasize the beauty of, the natural female Asian eye.
Apply the lightest shade of eye-shadow to the entire upper lid and to the brow bone under the outer eyebrow. Apply a small amount of the darkest shade of eye-shadow to the inner corner of the epicanthic fold near the nose. Apply the middle tone of eye-shadow to the rest of the fold and use it to blend the edges of the lighter and darker eye-shadow colors.
Use eyeliner on lower lid and extend beyond outer corner of eye. Apply mascara. Follow instructions for eyebrows in Chapter 5.
LIGHTEST EYE-SHADOW ON LID AND BROW BONE
DARKEST EYE-SHADOW COLOR ON INNER CORNER
MIDDLE TONE ON FOLD; THREE COLORS OF SHADOW BLENDED
COMPLETED EYE MAKEUP
Emphasizing the Cheeks
For a natural look blush is applied horizontally. For glamour it can be applied at an angle.
Emphasizing the Mouth
Full, rounded lips are generally the norm for glamour. If your lips are already full, follow their natural shape with lip-liner and fill then in with cream color, as demonstrated in Chapter 5. Lips can be made to appear fuller by extending their outline using a lip-liner pencil. Because you are not trying to hide the fact that you are wearing makeup, you may choose a color much different than your natural lip color. However, make certain that the lip-liner is only slightly darker than the lip color; lip outlines are never glamorous.
ANGLED BLUSH APPLICATION
LINER USED TO MAKE LIPS APPEAR FULLER
FINISHED LIP COLOR
