8
Manipulating Cartilage, Muscle, and Fat
A performer may be called on to play a character that is heavier than he or she is, or has personal traits that might suggest roundness in their features. This chapter will demonstrate the way highlight and shadow can help create the appearance of roundness in facial features or, in the case of the lips, make them appear thinner. Note that those with very angular faces and little subcutaneous fat may have trouble with some of the features in this chapter. Of consolation is the fact that it will be easier to make your face appear exceedingly thin.
Rounded “Apple” Cheeks
To find the proper placement of highlight and shadow for rounded "apple" cheeks, one must smile hard. Not a grin, but a full smile that reveals the teeth. If there is any subcutaneous fat on your face, your big smile will create a rounded shape on the cheek, directly below the eye socket.
Using the pad of your middle finger, apply a dot of highlight to your cheek just above the center of the rounded shape. Relax the face. You may need to try this several times to find the right location.
Smile again. Apply an arc of shadow below the center of the rounded "apple" cheek. Notice the amount of distance left for blending between the highlight and the shadow.
NATURAL "APPLE" CHEEK
HIGHLIGHT ON "APPLE" CHEEK
SHADOW ON "APPLE" CHEEK
Blend the highlight in a spiral manner. The finger is the best tool for blending in a circle or spiral. Blend the shadows' upper and lower edges following the curve of the arc.
BLENDED HIGHLIGHT AND SHADOW
A similar method can be used to make an actor look younger. Age will cause the cheekbones to become more prominent due to the deterioration of subcutaneous fat. A plumper, rounder cheek can give the impression of youth.
Apply the highlight a little higher than you would for an apple cheek which is used to give the impression of heaviness. Apply the arc of shadow slightly higher as well, so it does not touch the nasolabial fold.
HIGHLIGHT FOR YOUTHFUL "APPLE" CHEEK
SHADOW FOR YOUTHFUL "APPLE" CHEEK
BLENDED HIGHLIGHT AND SHADOW
Rounded and Widened Nose
To accentuate or exaggerate the roundness of the nose, treat the ball of the nose in the same way as the "apple" cheek. Apply a dot of highlight just above the Center. Apply an arc of shadow below the center of the ball of the nose.
Blend carefully—this is a small area.
In Chapter 6, highlight and shadow were used on the bridge of the nose to widen and shorten it. Use this technique to support the roundness of the ball of the nose.
HIGHLIGHT AND SHADOW ON BALL OF NOSE
BLENDED HIGHLIGHT AND SHADOW
WIDENED BRIDGE WITH ROUNDED TIP
Double Chins
If you apply highlight and shadow to your neck you must first apply foundation as far down as you plan to extend the contouring. Take into consideration the height or depth of the neckline of your costume. Next, apply highlight and shadow for a rounded chin as demonstrated in Chapter 4. Now tilt your chin down and pull it back in towards your neck. This will create rolls of skin on which you can simulate fat.
Use your wide brush to apply highlight to the outermost parts of the skin rolls, tapering out the width at the ends.
Release the neck; a faint trace of the creases will remain. Apply shadow in the creases between the rolls, creating a hard edge at the bottom and a softer, blended edge above.
Blend carefully, leaving base tone in-between.
CREATING ROLLS OF SKIN
HIGHLIGHT OUTER PART OF ROLLS
SHADOW IN THE CREASES
BLENDED HIGHLIGHT AND SHADOW
Changing the Shape of the Lips
Depending on the character you are playing or the time period of the play, there a several changes you may want to make to the shape of your lips. To make your lips appear fuller, draw the shape you want with your lip-liner pencil. Use your medium or small flat brush to blend the inside of the pencil line inwards, leaving the outer edge sharp.
Use your medium or small flat brush to fill in the outline with cream lip color.
If there is not enough contrast between the tone of the lips and the foundation, carefully outline the lips with cream highlight makeup.
Blend the highlight out and away from the lips.
CREATING A FULLER LIP WITH LIP-LINER
FILLED IN LIPS
LINING THE LIPS WITH HIGHLIGHT
HIGHLIGHT HELPS THE LIPS STAND OUT FROM THE FOUNDATION
To make your lips appear thinner, draw the shape you want with your lip-liner pencil.
Blend the inside of the pencil line inwards, leaving the outer edge sharp.
Use your medium or small flat brush to fill in the outline with cream lip color.
CREATING A THINNER LIP LINE WITH LIP PENCIL
BLENDED LIP PENCIL LINE
FILLED IN LIP LINE
To block out the natural color of your own lips, use your small flat brush to follow the shape of your new lip line with cream highlight. Keep the inner edge of your highlight sharp and blend the outer edge.
Apply cream foundation over the highlight in the same manner
If this is your final step, set your makeup with powder.
HIGHLIGHTING TO BLOCK OUT LIPS
THINNER LIPS