Index
Figures are shown in italics.
A
age makeup: cream highlight and shadow 2; droopy eyelids and eyebrows 79–81, 79–81; effects of gravity 75; eyebags 76–8, 76–8; fine lines and wrinkles 87–8, 87–8; frown lines 84, 85; hands 93–4, 93–4; highlight and shadow makeup blending 17; jawline 85–6, 85–6; latex for three-dimensional wrinkles 91–2, 92–2; lips 89, 89; longer nose 81, 81; makeup worksheets 135–6, 135–6; nasolabial folds 82–4, 82–4; stippling the skin 89–91, 89–91; visual research 75, 135, 135
allergy testing 7
ancient Egyptian makeup 122, 122
application tools: brushes 3, 3; cleaning 7; latex-free sponges 3; non-sharing of 7
B
blending: cheekbones 22, 22; contouring 20; importance of 20; jawline 23, 23
bronzing powder: cosmetic makeup 33, 33; for jawline manipulation 56, 56
C
cheekbones: accentuating (men playing women) 116, 116; blending 22, 22; contouring 21–2, 21, 22; higher appearance (narrow/sunken look) 47, 47; lowering (women playing men) 110–11, 111; to narrow a wider face 48, 48; for youthful appearance 68, 68
cheeks: cheek color 38–9, 38, 39; cream blush 2; glamour makeup 63, 63; rounded "apple" cheeks 66–7, 66–7
chin: contouring 24, 24–5; double chins 70, 70; larger 58, 58; longer and pointy 58, 58; rounder 57, 57; smaller 57, 57
concealer: applying 13; blending 13; before concealer 14; concealer blended 14; foundation over concealer 14; green-tinted highlight used as concealer 14; for men playing women 114, 114; uses for 12–13; using the color wheel 13, 13; yellow-tinted highlight used as concealer 14
contouring: cheekbones 21–2, 21–2; chin 24, 24–5; cosmetic eye-shadows 32, 32; creation of three-dimensionality 17; eyes 27–30, 27–30; forehead 18–20, 19, 20; highlight and shadow 17; jawline 23, 23; noses 25–6, 25–6; space for blending 17; using cosmetics 31, 31; the value scale 17
corrective makeup: cream blush 38, 38; eyebrows 37, 37; eyeliner 35–6, 35, 36; lip definition 40–1, 40, 41; mascara 36; powder blush 39, 39
cosmetics: application of liquid concealer 15; brands 2; bronzing powder 33, 33; contouring 31, 31; eye-shadow and contouring 32, 32; items needed 3–4; mascara 3; setting foundation with powder 15; theatrical uses for 2
cream makeup: age makeup 2; cheek blush 2; contouring with highlight 17; cream blush 38, 38; foundation application 2, 10, 11, 12; highlights 2; neutral cream color for men 41, 41; shadow 2; traditional theatrical makeup 2; using cream makeup 17
cross-gender makeup: men playing women 114–20, 114–20; women playing men 109–11, 109–11
E
eighteenth century period makeup 128, 128
eyebrows: 1930s makeup 129, 129; corrective makeup 37, 37; droopy eyelids and eyebrows, aging 79–81, 79–81; flattening (men playing women) 114–15, 114–15; minimal, Gothic makeup 125, 125; Restoration makeup 127, 127; shaping 61; shaping (men playing women) 118, 118
eye-liner: ancient Egyptian makeup 122, 122; men playing women 118, 118; 1920s makeup 129, 129
eyes: ancient Egyptian makeup 122, 122; black eyes 98–9, 98–9; contouring 27–30, 27–30; droopy eyelids and eyebrows, aging 79–81, 79–81; eyebags 76–7, 76–7; eyeliner 35–6, 35, 36, 61, 61, 62, 62; false lashes 61; glamour makeup, Asian eyes 62, 62; glamour makeup, western eyes 60–1, 60–1; mascara 36; for women playing men 112, 112
eye-shadow: contouring 32, 32; glamour makeup 60–2, 60–1, 62
F
face patches (Restoration makeup) 127, 127
facial cleansing, removing makeup 7
facial hair appliances: applying 105–6, 105–6; spirit gum 100, 105, 106
forehead: contouring 18–20, 29, 20; frown lines 84, 85; male/female forehead ridges 18, 109; narrowing 45, 45; narrowing (men playing women) 115–16, 115; shortening 46, 46; use of highlight 18–19, 19, 20; use of shadow 19–20, 19; widening 45, 45; widening (women playing men) 109–10, 109–10
foundation: application 10; applying street makeup foundation 15; blending two foundations on a palette 10; blending two foundations on your face 11; choice of color 9–10, 10; cosmetic foundation 15; cream-based 2, 9, 12; liquid 9; for men playing women 114, 114; over concealer 14; pancake foundation 2, 9, 12, 12; pre-application preparations 9; setting with powder 15; uses for 7
G
Gibson Girl makeup (turn of the twentieth century) 128, 128
glamour makeup: cheeks 63, 63; eyes, Asian 62, 62; eyes, western 60–1, 60–1; eye-shadow 60–2, 60–1, 62; finished results 64; lips 63, 63
Greek makeup, classical 123–5, 123–5
H
highlights: aging the jawline 85–7, 85–7; aging the lips 89, 89; applying to the temples 20; blending 20; color choice 18; contouring the cheekbones 21–2, 21–2; contouring the eyes 27–30, 27—30; contouring the forehead 18–19, 19–20, 19, 20; contouring the jawline 23, 23; contouring the nose 25–6, 25–6; cream makeup 2, 17; double chins 70, 70; droopy eyelids and eyebrows, aging 79–81, 79–81; eyebags 76–8, 76–8; frown lines 85, 85, 86–8. 86–8; fuller lips 71, 71; green-tinted highlight used as concealer 14; longer nose 82, 82; for manipulating bone structure 43; manipulating the cheekbones 47–8, 47, 48; manipulating the chin 57–8, 57, 58; manipulating the forehead 44–6, 44, 45, 46; manipulating the jawline 53–6, 53–6; manipulating the nose 49–52, 49–52; narrower lips 73, 73; nasolabial folds 82–4, 82–4; rounded and widened nose 69, 69; for rounded "apple" cheeks 66–7, 66–7; space for blending 17; traditional theatrical makeup 2; women playing men 109–11, 109–11; yellow-tinted highlight used as concealer 14; for youthful appearance 68, 68
historical periods: 1920s 129, 129; 1930s 129, 129; 1940s 130, 130; 1950s-early 1960s 130, 130; 1960s 131, 131; 1970s 131, 131; 1980s 131, 131; ancient Egyptian 122, 122; classical Greek and Roman 123–5, 123–5; eighteenth century 128, 128; Elizabethan/Shakespearean 126–7, 126—7, Gibson Girl (turn of the twentieth century) 128, 128; Gothic 125, 125; nineteenth century 128; Renaissance 126; research 122; Restoration 127, 127; uses of makeup 122
hygiene: avoiding infections 7; hand washing 7, 9
J
jawline: aging 85–6, 85–6; blending 23, 23; bronzing powder for uplift 56, 56; contouring 23, 23; narrowing the face 54. 54; softening (men playing women) 117, 117; square jawline 53, 53; square jawline (women playing men) 111, 111; uplifting the jawline 55, 55
L
latex: aging hands 94, 94; peeling skin and sunburn 102–3, 102–3; prosthetics 105, 107–8, 107–8; scars and welts 100–1, 100—1; three-dimensional wrinkles 91–2, 91–2
lips: aging 89, 89; fuller, classical Greek and Roman 125, 125; fuller lips 71, 71; fuller lips (men playing women) 119–20, 119–20; glamour makeup 63, 63; minimizing (women playing men) 112, 112; thinner lips 72–3, 72–3
M
makeup worksheets: for age makeup 135–6, 135–6; creating the road map 136–7; instruction grid 135; photos of your face 134, 134; pre-made worksheets 134; uses for 134
N
1950s-early 1960s period makeup 130, 130
mid-1960s period makeup 131, 131
nineteenth century period makeup 128
nose: contouring 25–6, 25–6; creating a broken nose 52, 52; long, thin nose 49, 49; longer nose 81, 81; rounded and widened 69, 69; shorter (men playing women) 116, 116; shorter nose 50, 50; upturned nose 51, 51
P
palettes for mixing: blending two foundations 10; examples 3
pancake makeup: foundation 2, 9, 12, 22; traditional theatrical makeup 2
powders: loose powders 15; pressed setting powders 15; setting the makeup 30
prosthetics, applying 107–8, 107–8
R
Restoration period makeup 127, 127
S
shadow: aging the jawline 85–7, 85–7; aging the lips 89, 89; contouring 23, 23; contouring the cheekbones 21–2, 21–2; contouring the eyes 27–30, 27–30; contouring the forehead 18–19, 19–20, 19, 20; contouring the nose 25–6, 25–6; contouring using cosmetics 31, 31; double chins 70, 70; droopy eyelids and eyebrows, aging 79–81, 79–81; eyebags 77, 77; frown lines and wrinkles 85, 85, 86–8, 86–8; longer nose 82, 82; for manipulating bone structure 43; manipulating the cheekbones 47–8, 47, 48; manipulating the chin 57–8, 57, 58; manipulating the forehead 44–6, 44, 45, 46; manipulating the jawline 53–6, 53–6; manipulating the nose 49–52, 49–52; nasolabial folds 82–4, 82–4; rounded and widened nose 69, 69; for rounded "apple" cheeks 66–7, 66–7; women playing men 109–11, 109–11; for youthful appearance 68, 68
skin: bruises and black eyes 98–9, 98–9; five o'clock shadow 96, 96; pale, Elizabethan/Shakespearean 126–7, 126–7; pale, Gothic makeup 125, 125; peeling skin and sunburn 102–3, 102–3; ruddiness, rosacea and acne 89, 96–7, 96–7; scars and welts 100–1, 100–1; stippling for aging the skin 89–91, 89–91; stippling the skin 94
spirit gum: applying scars and welts 100; for facial hair and prosthetics 105, 106; for flattening eyebrows (men playing women) 114–15, 114–15
sponges: latex-free sponges 3; non-reuse of 15
stippling the skin: bmises and black eyes 98–9, 98–9; minimal eyebrows, Gothic makeup 125, 125; for ruddiness 89, 96–7, 96–7; for women playing men 113, 113
storage cases 5
T
testing, allergies 7
traditional theatrical makeup: brands 2; cream 2; items needed 2–3, 3–4; mascara 3; pancake 2
W
wrinkles: fine lines and wrinkles 87–8, 87–8; latex for three-dimensional wrinkles 91–2, 91–2