Nowhere is the flavor of the Yucatán more intense than in the west of the region, around its historic capital, Mérida. In these parts, there is an extraordinary density of Mayan relics and, although they may not match the awe-inspiring power of Chichén Itzá, sites such as Uxmal show the architecture of the Maya at its most elegant. Beyond the main sights are stretches of wilderness, hidden lagoons, and small towns dripping with bougainvillea and hibiscus.
1. Labná
Open 8am–5pm daily • Adm
The Arch of Labná, wonderfully drawn by Frederick Catherwood, exemplifies the sophistication of Puuc architecture. Nearby, the town’s Palacio is only slightly smaller than Sayil’s, and was divided into seven patios – the part to the left (west) was home to the lords of Labná, while the patios to the right were for servants. The setting, in tranquil woods full of birds, is especially lovely.
2. Uxmal
With the elegant lines of the Nunnery Quadrangle and towering mass of the Pyramid of the Magician, Uxmal is not only one of the most beautiful of ancient Mayan cities but also one of the greatest sights in the Americas.
3. Campeche
This Spanish colonial walled city retains a charming old-world feel. The 17th-century ramparts and bastions were built to defend it against pirates. The streets within are lined with delicately colored old houses featuring patios and iron-grilled windows. A museum, housed in an old Spanish fort, contains jade funeral masks and other fine relics from the excavated site at Calakmul.
4. Celestún
Tours from Celestún Embarcadero: 8am–5pm daily • Adm
Just north of this fishing village is a silent, watery expanse of mangrove lagoon that is a breeding ground for flamingos, ibises, egrets, and blue herons. Boat tours are very popular (the lagoon can get rather crowded at times). Stay over in Celestún after the tours have gone back to Mérida to enjoy this tranquil village, with its white beach, laid-back restaurants and hotels, and fabulous sunsets.
5. Dzibilchaltún
Cenote Xlacah: open 8am–5pm daily • Adm Mon–Fri
The Temple of the Seven Dolls, through which the sun strikes at dawn on spring and fall equinoxes to run straight along a white sacbé (rough cast road) to the central plaza, is the most celebrated feature of this Mayan city just north of Mérida. It was one of the longest-inhabited Mayan cities, occupied for over 2,000 years. There are additional temples at the site, as well as a grand Palacio and a Spanish missionary chapel. The huge, mysterious pool – Cenote Xlacah – which provided the ancient city with water, now offers an idyllic place in which to cool off.
6. Kabah
Open 8am–5pm daily • Adm
This was the second most important of the Puuc cities after Uxmal, and an imposing arch on its west side marks the start of the sacbé road that linked it to its larger ally. Its Codz Poop, or “Palace of Masks,” is the most extravagant example of Mayan carving: the extraordinary facade is covered with 250 faces of the long-nosed rain-god Chac. The Palacio and Temple of the Columns are two more classics of refined Puuc architecture.
7. Sayil
Open 8am–5pm daily • Adm
Of all the Puuc cities, Sayil is the one that gives the strongest sense of the huge wealth of its ancient inhabitants. Its hub is the magnificent Palacio, an opulent complex that sweeps up through three levels and more than 90 chambers, with an architectural refinement that recalls the buildings of ancient Greece. It housed over 350 people, from lords to servants, and had its own exclusive water supply.
8. Mérida
This is perhaps the most seductive of all the colonial cities in Mexico, with elegant architecture, shady patios, great markets, and a distinct friendliness. With the soft music of boleros and the jarana heard in free concerts in 16th-century squares, and fiestas enjoyed by all ages every Sunday, the town’s appeal is plentiful and varied.
9. Progreso
Mérida’s port and favorite beach town is a place to get close to ordinary Yucatecan life. The harbor is set at the end of a 4-mile (6-km) pier, and so the shallow waters around the beach remain blissfully tranquil. It’s calm until the weekend, that is, when Meridanos spill out onto the sand and into the warm blue waters. There are excellent fish restaurants along the seafront, too, with large, convivial outside terraces on which to socialize.
10. Loltún Caves
Tours 8–11am & 2–4pm Mon–Sat, 8–11am Sun • Adm
This vast cave complex is both a stunning natural phenomenon and an ancient Mayan site. It has been occupied by humans longer than anywhere else in the Yucatán, from remote prehistory right up until the 19th century. The ancient Maya lived here, mined the caves, and used them for rituals. Guided tours take you through 1.5 miles (2 km) of caves, but the network extends much further. The rock formations are awe-inspiring, and a special feature of Loltún is its strange changes of temperature, from fierce heat to chilly breezes.
STEPHENS AND CATHERWOOD
The existence of an ancient Mayan civilization was brought to the world’s attention by the American traveler John Lloyd Stephens (1805–52) and English artist Frederick Catherwood (1799–1854). Traveling together from 1839 to 1842, they provided the first full descriptions and drawings of Chichén Itzá and Uxmal, and are credited with the discovery of Kabah and Sayil, among others.
A DAY IN THE PUUC HILLS
MORNING
Leave Mérida early in a rental car and drive directly to Uxmal. Beyond the suburb of Umán, where you turn onto Highway 261, traffic thins out, and you’ll have an easy drive through woods and a few tranquil villages.
Beyond Muna the road enters the Puuc Hills before descending to Uxmal. Spend at least two hours exploring this site, keeping an eye out for the many iguanas as well as admiring the architecture.
Recoup your energies by heading back up the road to the nearby Hacienda Uxmal for sopa de lima on the terrace.
AFTERNOON
Head straight for Kabah to marvel at the monsters of the Codz Poop.
Further south, the “Puuc Route” turns off the main Highway 261 onto a lovely woodland road, with only a few other tourists, tricycle carts, and the birds for company. Along the way are stop-offs at the Puuc sites of Sayil, Xlapak, and Labná. At the end of the road, descend into the netherworld of the Loltún Caves, refreshing yourself afterwards in the café.
Go down to Oxkutzcab, and turn left for Ticul, where you can take a leisurely stroll around its historic Plaza Mayor. Drive back to Mérida, stopping en route at Yaxcopoíl for a quick tour of the hacienda.
The Best of the Rest
1. Oxkintok
Open 8am–5pm daily • Adm • www.inah.gob.mx
This ancient Mayan city has a Satunsat, or “Labyrinth” pyramid, containing a strange, dark maze, possibly built as an entrance to the Underworld that only the Lord of Oxkintok could use.
2. Yaxcopoíl Hacienda
Open 8am–6pm Mon–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun • Adm • www.yaxcopoil.com
Of all the restored haciendas in the Yucatán, this one, with its crumbling, ornate main house and factory buildings, gives the best feel of life here when henequén or “green gold” dominated the state.
3. Cenotes
The cenotes and underwater rivers in the western Yucatán are far less well explored than those around Tulum. Snorkeling and diving trips are run from Mérida.
4. Xlapak
Open 8am–5pm daily • Adm • www.inah.gob.mx
The smallest Puuc site is as attractive for the undisturbed woodland walk as for its archaeological site. The little Palacio has intricate Puuc carving.
5. Edzná
Open 8am–5pm daily • Adm • www.inah.gob.mx
This (see Edzná) is a Mayan city as spectacular as Chichén Itzá. The “Building of the Five Stories” is one of the largest Mayan palaces.
6. Ticul
One of the most charming Yucatán country towns, Ticul is also a historic center for ceramics.
7. Acanceh
On one side of the square of this remarkable little town (see Acanceh) is an 18th-century church, while on another is a very ancient Mayan pyramid, perhaps begun around 300 BC.
8. Mayapán
Open 8am–5pm daily • Adm • www.inah.gob.mx
The last big Mayan city, and one that dominated the Yucatán for 200 years after 1200. Its buildings often “mimic” Chichén Itzá and have beautifully preserved frescoes.
9. The Campeche Petenés
This mangrove and forest wilderness (see Campeche Petenes) is home to a wide range of wildlife such as pumas and turtles. Trips can be taken from Campeche or the village of Isla Arena.
10. Chelem and Yucalpetén
Just west of Progreso, on the other side of a gap in the coastal sand bar, these easy-going villages have long, almost empty beaches. They’re popular for windsurfing.
Places to Shop
1. Bazar de Artesanías Craft Market, Mérida
Calle 67, by corner of Calle 56
This semi-official handicrafts market is packed with stalls selling every kind of Yucatecan and Mexican craft work, some of it excellent, and some rather tatty.
2. Casa de Artesanías, Mérida
Calle 63, No. 503, between Calle 64 and Calle 66
The Yucatán state handicrafts store has high-quality local work, with many beautiful, usable things especially in textiles, basketware, and wood.
3. Mérida Market
Calle 65, between Calle 54 and Calle 58
One of the world’s greatest markets, this is a labyrinth of alleys and stalls selling everything imaginable – fish, fruit, a huge range of chilies, huípil blouses, sandals, and hats.
4. Hamacas La Poblana, Mérida
Calle 65, No. 492, Centro
Street stalls sell poor-quality but cheap hammocks – head here for the real thing in every color, size, and style, sold by weight.
5. El Charro Mexicano, Mérida
59 515, Zona Paseo Montejo, La Quinta
A little shop selling botas (boots) and sombreros (hats) opposite the market, with a friendly owner who will show you piles of handmade panamas in all sorts of styles and sizes.
6. Mexicanísimo, Mérida
Parque Hidalgo Calle 60, between Calle 59 and Calle 61
This is an innovative store that sells lightweight clothes for men and women in original, modern designs, using Mexican cottons and other traditional materials.
7. Arte Maya, Ticul
Calle 23, No. 301
Ticul produces huge quantities of ceramics. This family-run store stands out for the owners’ skills and careful use of traditional and even ancient Mayan techniques.
8. Guayaberas Jack, Mérida
Calle 59, No. 507, between Calle 60 and Calle 62
The guayabera shirt-jacket is the smartest thing for gentlemen to wear in tropical Mérida. This long-established shop sells only guayaberas, and can make them to measure.
9. Maya Chuy Bordado, Mérida
Calle 18, No. 80
This charming shop, tucked away from the crowded shopping streets of Mérida, is the outlet of a women’s embroidery cooperative. Blouses, rugs, and other items are beautifully and individually made.
10. Casa de Artesanías Tukulná, Campeche
Calle 10, No. 333, between Calle 59 and Calle 61
Campeche’s state handicrafts store has a great choice of ceramics, embroidery, basketwork, and many other top-quality items that are beautifully displayed.
Drinking and Entertainment Spots
1. Pancho’s, Mérida
Calle 59, No. 509, between Calle 60 and Calle 62 • $
The liveliest dance club and bar-restaurant in central Mérida has Mexican bandit decor, welcoming staff, and a buzzing open-air dance floor.
2. Dulcería y Sorbetería El Colón, Mérida
Calle 59, on the plaza • $
Choose from an array of fruit-flavored sorbets and ice creams at this plaza-front parlor. A popular order is a champola, scoops of fruit ice served in a tall glass with milk.
3. La Negrita Cantina, Mérida
Calle 62, No. 415 • (999) 121 0411 • Open noon–10pm daily • $
Experience Havana at this bar, where the decor, drinks, and music all evoke this Caribbean island.
4. Café Crème, Mérida
Calle 41, corner of Calle 60 Centro • $$
Located in downtown Mérida, two blocks from Paseo Montejo, this café serves a variety of tasty French snacks and refreshing natural fruit juices.
5. Ku’uk, Mérida
Av Rómulo Rozo No. 488, by Calle 27 and Calle 27A • (999) 944 3377 • $$$
Indulge in the tasting menu at this upscale restaurant or relax with a cocktail at its bar. There is also a fine collection of wine and beer, with many sourced from around Mexico.
6. Jugos California, Mérida
Calle 58, No. 505 Centro • $
Juice stands are a wonderful local institution, and Jugos California wins the prize as the best in town. You’ll find a number of watermelons, pineapples, papayas, and more.
7. Piedra de Agua, Mérida
Calle 62, No. 498 • $$
In a boutique hotel of the same name, close to the Santa Lucia church, this welcoming courtyard bar is a classy spot for an evening cocktail, glass of wine, or ice-cold beer.
8. Flamingos, Progreso
Malecón, corner of Calle 22 • $$
One of Progreso’s most enjoyable big terrace bar-restaurants, with tasty ceviches to go with the beer.
9. Casa Vieja de los Arcos, Campeche
Calle 10, No. 319, Altos on the plaza • $$
Watch the sun set from the balcony of this Cuban restaurant-bar on Campeche’s central square. Enjoy their signature minty Mojitos made with Cuban rum.
10. La Parroquia, Campeche
Calle 55, No. 8 • $$
Traditional local delicacies are served for breakfast, lunch, and dinner at this popular restaurant with a well-deserved reputation.
Places to Eat
1. Amaro, Mérida
Calle 59, No. 507, between Calle 60 and Calle 62 • (999) 928 2451 • $$
One of old Mérida’s loveliest patios houses this relaxing restaurant, which has a half-vegetarian menu, including several dishes made with the Yucatecan vegetable chaya.
2. El Marlin Azul, Mérida
Calle 62, No. 488, between Calle 57 and Calle 59 • (999) 928 1606 • $$
Ceviche is the dish to order at this seafood restaurant (see El Marlin Azul, Mérida) but also try the shrimp fajitas. Go for lunch, as it closes at 4pm.
3. El Príncipe Tutul-Xiu, Maní
Calle 26 No. 208, between Calle 25 and Calle 27 • (999) 929 7721• $$
Set under a giant palapa roof, this restaurant is busiest on Sundays, when families drive from Mérida to eat poc-chuc, panuchos, and other Yucatecan staples.
4. La Palapa, Celestún
Calle 12, by corner of Calle 11 • (988) 916 2063 • $$
Automatic first choice in Celestún, a comfortable beach terrace beneath a palapa roof, serving up succulent, coriander-rich platters of octopus, fish, and shrimp.
5. Hacienda Ochil
Off Highway 261, signposted about 25 miles (40 km) from Mérida • (999) 924 7465 • $$
This restaurant in a restored hacienda offers traditional Yucatecan dishes on a delightful terrace.
6. Hacienda Uxmal, Uxmal
Antigua Carretera Mérida, Campeche, km 78 • $$$
Located opposite the site of Uxmal, this restaurant has a tropical garden and ethnic artworks, and serves fine local and international cuisine.
7. La Chaya Maya, Mérida
Corner of Calle 62 and Calle 57, between 60 and 62 • $$
An oasis (see La Chaya Maya, Mérida) of high-quality, reasonably priced Yucatecan food, amid its more costly neighbors. Dishes range from salbutes to cochinita pibil.
8. La Pigua, Campeche
Alemán No. 179A • $$
Taking advantage of Campeche’s prime position on the Gulf of Mexico, La Pigua serves fresh fish and seafood in sophisticated surroundings.
9. Casa de Piedra, Xcanatún
Xcanatún, 7 miles (12 km) N of Mérida • (999) 941 0213 • $$$
A comfortable hacienda restaurant in a garden, Casa de Piedra combines local and Caribbean cooking with a few French touches.
10. Hacienda San José Cholul
Hwy Tixkokob–Tekanto, km 30 • (999) 924 1333 • $$$
Set in a lovely colonial hacienda, the biggest draw is the secluded garden. The service is also excellent.