GLOSSARY OF FASHION INDUSTRY TERMS

a

advanced shipping notice (ASN): An electronically transmitted invoice.

agent: A salesperson who sells on behalf of a company and receives commission on the value of sales.

artisans: People who do skilled work with their hands.

atelier: The French word for designer workshop.

b

bespoke: Individual or custom-made.

block: A base pattern, from which new styles are created.

boutique: An independent shop selling unique items.

brand name: A trade name that helps customers identify and differentiate one product from another.

buyer: A person responsible for planning and buying merchandise.

buying office: An independent or store-owned office that buys for one chain, or for many stores.

c

care labelling: A label used in garments that gives information on washing, drying, ironing, bleaching, or dry cleaning.

cash flow: Measures monthly income generated against expenditure.

catwalk show: Designs shown on live models to potential buyers and the press.

chain store: A group of retail stores, owned and operated by a central organisation, all selling similar merchandise.

cash on delivery (COD): Where payment has to be made upon the receipt of goods.

CMT: see ‘Cut, make and trim’.

collection: A group of items presented together to the buyer.

colour story: A group of products within a range that are arranged into a colour story, either of similar or complimentary colours.

colour-forecasting: The prediction of future colour trends, conducted by colour/trend forecasting companies.

colour-way: The variety of colour choices available for each garment style.

comparative shopping: Collecting and comparing data on what is stocked in a number of retail outlets.

computer aided design (CAD)/computer aided manufacturing (CAM): Computer software programs that are used in designing, pattern making, grading and manufacturing.

contractor: An external manufacturer who specialises in sewing and finishing goods.

copyright: This gives the copyright holder the exclusive right to use, perform, or reproduce written, pictorial, and performed work.

cost (wholesale cost, or cost to manufacture): The total cost to manufacture a style, including materials, trimmings, labour, and auxiliary costs, such as freight, duty, and packaging.

costing sheet: This is used to calculate the total cost of manufacturing a garment, and will include fabric used, labour costs, any additional processing costs and packaging, plus any other overheads.

couture: Designs made to order, to fit individual clients.

couturier: Male designer/dressmaker.

couturiere: Female designer/dressmaker.

credit insurance freight (CIS): A shipping term used for goods that are supplied with cost of product, insurance and freight included in the price quoted.

critical path: The sequence of activities that must be completed on schedule, for orders to be completed on time.

cut, make, and trim (CMT): Used to describe the processes of external clothing contractors who manufacture the finished garments.

cutter: The person who cuts material into the pieces to been sewn during the manufacturing process.

d

delivery note: A document that should accompany an order, recording what is being delivered.

design/garment specifications: A sheet that gives precise information a design, including a detailed sketch, fabric used (swatch attached), and measurements.

designer: A person who creates ideas for garments or accessories in the fashion industry.

diffusion range: A designer label’s less-expensive line.

digitizer: A table embedded with sensors that relate to X and Y coordinates which allow the shape of the pattern piece to be traced and converted to a drawing of the pattern in the computer.

directional pieces: Based on styles that are trend-led.

discount: A term used in sales for the amount of mark down allowed, often because a large order is placed or the payment is quick.

distributor: The middle person between the designer/manufacturer and the retailer.

docket: An order sheet given to a manufacturer for goods to be made, giving information about the style, fabric, sizes and quantities required.

draping: A process of creating the initial garment style by molding, cutting, and pinning fabric to a mannequin. This drape can then be made into a pattern.

drop ship: A system where the retailer displays a sample but does not keep goods in stock, instead placing orders with their supplier when they get an order from a customer, in return for a commission.

e

eco fashion: Fashion products that use environmentally friendly materials and processes.

ex factory: The cost of the product from the manufacturer, not including any shipping or insurance costs.

f

factoring: Providing loans to manufacturers, based on the value of the orders received.

fashion cycle: Refers to the introduction, acceptance, and decline of a fashion.

fashion forecasting: A prediction of forthcoming fashion trends.

fashion merchandising: The planning required to have the right fashion-oriented merchandise at the right time, in the right place, in the right quantities, and at the right price.

fashion trends: The direction in which fashion is moving.

fashion weeks: Bi-annual events in major cities used to promote designers and show new collections to a global audience.

fast fashion: Fashion that responds to trends which is designed, produced and in stores within a short period of time.

free on board (FOB): A shipping term which indicates that the supplier pays the shipping costs (and usually also the insurance costs) from the point of manufacture to a specified destination, at which point the buyer takes responsibility.

g

gross profit: The profit made on sales before deducting indirect costs.

h

haute couture: Protected under French law and defined by the Paris Chamber of Commerce (Chambre de commerce et d’industrie de Paris). It must follow these rules:

  1. Design made-to-order for private clients, with one or more fittings.
  2. Have a workshop (atelier) in Paris that employs at least fifteen people full-time.
  3. Each season (i.e. twice a year) present a collection to the Paris press, comprising at least thirty-five runs/exits, with outfits for both daytime wear and evening wear.

l

lead time: The time it takes for you or a supplier to deliver goods.

line sheet: A sheet providing information on a collection’s styles, colours, materials and wholesale/retail prices.

lookbook: A brochure that shows a label’s new collection to buyers and the press.

m

made to measure: Garments that are made to an order using a generic block but amended to fit the individual customer.

mark up: The amount of profit added to the cost price to form a selling price.

mass-market: Products produced in large volumes.

minimums: The minimum amounts needed to be ordered from a supplier or manufacturer.

n

net profit: Your profit, once indirect costs have been deducted from the gross profit.

o

overheads: The ongoing costs to run a business, e.g. rent, rates, staff, insurance.

p

point of sale (POS): Marketing materials (posters, brochures, postcards) supplied to retailers and used to promote a brand within the store.

pop-up shop: Space used on a temporary basis as a retail shop.

pre-collections: A range presented and delivered in advance of the main season’s collections giving retailers the opportunity for new stock in between seasons.

press pack: Publicity materials given to the press, including a press release, the company biography and contact information.

press release: An official announcement of newsworthy business activity that is sent to the press.

pret a porter: Ready to wear.

price point: The prices set by the seller.

pro forma: The invoice sent to the customer, to be paid in advance of goods being supplied.

product development: The process of developing the design, creation, and marketing of new products for the marketplace.

production schedule: A sheet that monitors each stage of the production process.

profit margin: The percentage of profit left once the cost is deducted from the selling price.

q

quality control: A process to ensure that the quality of make meets a certain set of standards.

r

range: see collection.

range plan: The plan of what a new range of products will comprise of.

ready to wear (RTW): Clothing that is produced in standard sizes.

retail: Goods sold to the end consumer.

RRP: Recommended retail price.

runway show: see catwalk show.

s

samples: The first version of a new product from which orders are taken.

sell through: The percentage of stock that is sold at full price.

SOR: Sale or return.

sourcing: Researching and finding all the components required to produce a product.

story board: The inspiration and theme behind a new collection.

supply chain: The stream of processes, people, technology, activities, information and resources involved in producing a product, from supplier to customer.

swatch: A small piece of material.

t

textile converter: A producer who buys fabrics unfinished and not fully processed, contracts to have them finished (dyed, bleached, printed, or subjected to other treatments) and then sells them to a manufacturer.

toile: The prototype of a new style made in a cheap material.

u

unique selling point (USP): This is used to differentiate a brand from others in the marketplace.

w

wholesale: Selling a product to a retailer, who then adds a profit margin and sells it to the end consumer.

Company name Date Season
Style Description Checked
Fabric
Lining
Buttons
Zips
Seam allowance
Thread colour
S/pads
Stitches per cm
Labels
Interlining
Care label
Brand label
Swing ticket
Hanger
Packaging
Misc
Key measurements (check against spec sheet) 8 10 12 14
1 Bust
2 Waist
3 Hem
4 X Back
5 Shoulders
6 C/F length
7 C/B length
8 Sleeve length
9 Cuff depth
10 Cuff width
11 Armhole circ
12 Collar depth c/b
13 Bicep
14 Zip opening
15 Side seam

Design Create Sell

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