Around Florence
The lush hills and wide Arno Valley spreading out from Florence are overlooked by most travellers making a beeline for Siena and Pisa. Skip the main roads and discover the spots known only to locals. There’s no lovelier route to Siena than the S222 Chiantigiana through the famed terracotta centre Impruneta to the castle-topped, vine-clad hills of the Chianti wine region. Just off the road to Pisa, the towns of Prato and Pistoia would be better known for their rich heritages of Romanesque architecture and Renaissance art were they not overshadowed by their mighty neighbours. Villas built by the Medici dot the countryside northwest of town.
1. Chianti
Tuscany’s famous wine region (see Chianti) has vineyards and castles, market towns and monasteries.
Vineyards stretching to the horizon in the Chianti region of Tuscany
2. Fiesole
Tourist office: Via Portigiani Zenobi 3 • 055 596 1311
This hilltop Etruscan settlement (see Fiesole) is a short ride from Florence on a No. 7 bus. The 11th-century cathedral was assembled using ancient Roman columns, and houses Renaissance sculptures by Giovanni della Robbia and Mino da Fiesole. The remains of a Roman theatre and baths are still used for Estate Fiesolana summer concerts. The steep road up to San Francesco church, with its quiet cloisters and quirky missionary museum, passes a popular park, shaded by ilex and filled with watercolourists reproducing its famous view of Florence.
Sculpture, Roman theatre, Fiesole
3. Prato
Tourist office: Piazza del Comune; 0574 24 112 ; www.pratoturismo.it">www.pratoturismo.it • Duomo: Piazza Duomo; open daily • Museum: open Mon, Wed–Sun & hols; adm for frescoes and museum combined
The mercantile tradition of this city dates to 15th-century financial genius Francesco Datini, famed “Merchant of Prato” and inventor of the promissory note. His frescoed palazzo is one of the best preserved of its kind in Italy. Prato’s finest art is in the Duomo (see Prato’s Duomo), but the Galleria Comunale has a lovely collection of early Renaissance polyptych altarpieces by such masters as Filippo Lippi and Bernardo Daddi. The Castello dell’Imperatore (1420s), its ramparts and grassy interior now a city park, was built by Emperor Frederick II to defend the road from his German kingdom to his lands in southern Italy.
4. Pistoia
Tourist office: Piazza Duomo 4; 0573 21 622; www.turismo.pistoia.it • Duomo: Piazza Duomo; open daily; adm for St Jacopo’s chapel
Pistoia, an ancient Roman town of metalworkers, is known for it’s thin daggers, which became handguns. These were called pistole after the city. It is an artistic crossroads where the Romanesque stripes in San Giovanni Fuoricivitas and the Duomo (see Pistoia’s Duomo) meet the Florentine Renaissance glazed terracottas festooning the Ospedale del Ceppo. Gothic art comes in the form of colourful 1372 frescoes covering the Cappella del Tau, and a Giovanni Pisano carved pulpit (1298–1301) in the church of Sant’Andrea.
Aerial view of the Duomo, Pistoia
5. Vinci
Tourist office: Via Montalbano 1; 0571 933 285
One of the greatest scientific minds and artistic talents in history, Leonardo da Vinci, was born on the outskirts of this medieval hill town in 1452. The 11th-century Castello Guidi houses a Museo Vinciano with over 100 models of the master’s inventions. Up the road, set in a picturesque olive-clad farmscape is his casa natale (birthplace) that seems straight from one of Leonardo’s works.
Appennino’s statue in Pratolino park at Villa Demidoff
6. Borgo San Lorenzo
Tourist office: MAP E2; Piazzale Lavacchini; 055 845 6230 • Villa: MAP D3; Via Ponti Medicei 12, Cerreto Guidi; 0571 55 671; open daily, call ahead for opening hours
Surrounded by Medici villas such as Villa Medicea di Cerreto Guidi and the Michelozzo-designed Castello del Trebbio (1461), this town was rebuilt after a 1919 earthquake. The 12th-century Pieve di San Lorenzo church contains Renaissance altarpieces by Taddeo Gaddi and Bachiacca, a damaged Madonna fresco by Giotto and apse murals by local Art Nouveau ceramics entrepreneur Galileo Chini (1906).
Statue, Pieve di San Lorenzo
7. Villa Demidoff
Pratolino • 055 409 427 • Open Jun–Sep: 10am–8pm Fri–Sun & hols (Oct: until 6pm) • Adm
The original Villa di Pratolino (see Villa Demidoff) is gone, but Bernardo Buontalenti’s fountain-filled Pratolino park remains a favourite excursion from Florence.
8. Certosa del Galluzzo
Galluzzo • Guided tours only: 10–11am & 3–4pm Tue–Sat, 3–4pm Sun (summer: until 5pm)
Established in 1341, this charterhouse was home to Carthusian monks until 1956. It serves monks of the Cistercian Order now. The building retains an original small monk’s church, a visitable cell and Renaissance cloisters set with della Robbia terracotta tondi and a gallery of the Pontormo frescoes dating from 1523–5.
9. Villa Poggio a Caiano
Piazza de’ Medici 14, Poggio a Caiano • 055 877 012 • Open 8:30am–4:30pm Tue–Wed, Fri–Sat
This ultimate Renaissance Medici villa (see Villa Poggio a Caiano) was designed by Giuliano da Sangallo at the end of the 15th century for Lorenzo the Magnificent. Also known as Ambra, the villa is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It houses two museums inside its halls.
10. Impruneta
Tourist office: Piazza Garibaldi/ “Pro Impruneta” • 055 231 3729
This terracotta-producing town is famed for its Renaissance collegiate church of Santa Maria. Flanking the high altar are chapels designed by Michelozzo and decorated with Luca della Robbia terracottas. The one on the right contains a fragment of the True Cross, the left an icon of the Virgin (supposedly painted by St Luke), buried here during the early Christian persecutions and dug up when the church foundations were laid. Also on view are fine Baroque paintings and a Mannerist crucifix by Giambologna.
Santa Maria church, Impruneta
FLORENTINE EXPANSION
In 1125, Florence virtually obliterated its hilltop neighbour Fiesole and began to prowl for land. It allied with the amenable (Prato, 1351), conquered the recalcitrant (Pistoia, 1301; Pisa, 1406) and built the rest (Livorno, 1571). After three years of bloody battle Siena was finally defeated (1554–7), and in 1569, the Medici pope Pius V named Cosimo I de’ Medici the Grand Duke of Tuscany.
A TOUR OF THE REGION
Morning
Start with Pistoia and the stupendous Gothic frescoes inside Capella del Tau (incredibly, a private owner in the 16th century whitewashed over them). Go down to zebra-striped San Giovanni Fuoricivitas for a Romanesque feast.
It’s a short walk to see Pistoia’s octagonal Baptistry, designed (maybe) by Andrea Pisano and unmistakable with its hoops of green and white marble. Don’t dawdle: you need time for the Duomo opposite (see Chianti) then Sant’Andrea (closes 12:30). Head back to the centre by way of the Ospedale del Ceppo and its colourful glazed terracotta frieze. Eat lunch at long-standing local favourite La BotteGaia just off the picturesque market square where medieval-style second storeys project over the ground floors of the buildings.
Afternoon
From Pistoia, it’s a quick drive to Prato. Stop first at Palazzo Datini’s frescoes (the St Christopher by the door was a common feature, believed to help protect those leaving the house) to pay your respects to the medieval “Merchant of Prato”, who inscribed his account ledgers “For God and Profit”.
Visit the Duomo Prato and, if you have the time, the adjacent Museo dell’Opera del Duomo and the Palazzo Pretorio. Grab a bag of cantucci (biscuits) at Antonio Mattei and clamber onto the broken ramparts of Castello dell’Imperatore for views of Santa Maria delle Carceri (1485–1506), a fine High Renaissance church.
Shops and Cafés
1. Antica Macelleria Falorni, Greve
Piazza Matteotti 66–67 • www.falorni.it
The walls at this butcher’s (see Chianti) have displayed prosciutto and salami since 1729. They have good wines too.
Shoppers at Antica Macelleria Falorni
2. Ceramiche Rampini, near Radda
Casa Beretone di Vistarenni (road to Siena) • www.rampiniceramics.com
One of the best Italian ceramicists, producing whimsical designs.
3. The Mall, Leccio Reggello, near Florence
Via Europa 8 (Incisa exit from A1) • Open 10am–7pm daily • www.firenze.themall.it
Find big savings on designer wear. The building is well signposted and is 3 miles (5 km) off the main road.
4. Antonio Mattei, Prato
Via Ricasoli 20–22 • www.antoniomattei.com
Since 1858, this shop has been making the best cantucci (biscuits) in Italy. Do buy some to take back home.
5. Luciano Porciatti, Radda
Piazza IV Novembre 1–3 • www.casaporciatti.it/
An excellent deli featuring fine cheeses and meats.
6. Barberino Designer Outlet, Barberino di Mugello
Via Meucci • www.mcarthurglen.com
Over 100 high-end designer outlets as well as several cafés and eateries.
7. Nuovo Mondo, Prato
Via Garibaldi 23 • Closed Mon D & Sun D • www.pasticcerianuovomondo.com
Stop by for delicious sweets, panini and pastries with classy service if you find yourself in this shopping street.
Sweet treats at Luca Mannori
8. Luca Mannori, Prato
Via Lazzerini 2 • Closed Tue D & Sun L • www.pasticceriamannoriprato.it
Delicious cakes and a huge variety of chocolates are sold at this pastry shop and chocolate-makers.
9. Cappelletti Pelletteria, Castellina in Chianti
Via Ferruccio 39/43 • www.lebotteghe.com
Run by the same family since 1893, this traditional pelletteria has handmade shoes, bags and other leather goods.
10. Accademia del Buon Gusto, Panzano
Piazza Ricasoli 11 • www.accademiadelbuongusto.com
There’s nowhere quite like Stefano Salvadori’s enoteca if you’re seeking insight into the traditional wines of the Chianti region.
Restaurants
1. La Cantinetta di Rignana, near Greve
Loc Rignana • 055 852 601 • €€
Deep in the countryside, set (see La Cantinetta di Rignana, near Greve in Chianti) among vineyards, this is the ultimate in rural feasting: both the setting and the food are second to none.
2. Da Delfina, Artimino
Via della Chiesa 1 • 055 871 8074 • Closed Mon • Payment with some cards accepted • €€
This is one of Tuscany’s finest countryside restaurants, mixing classy service with refined but traditional cooking. Coniglio con olive e pinoli, rabbit with olives and pine nuts, is a speciality.
3. Enoteca Ristorante Gallo Nero, Greve in Chianti
Via Battisti 9 • 055 853 734 • Closed Thu • €
A wide selection of meat dishes, homemade pastas and a good wine list are offered at this friendly, family-run restaurant.
4. La BotteGaia, Pistoia
Via del Lastrone 17 • 0573 365 602 • Closed Mon • €
This long-standing local favourite is a traditional Slow Food osteria serving the cuisine of northern Tuscany.
5. La Fontana, Prato
Via del Canneto 1 • 0574 27 282 • €€
Specializes in simple, authentic Tuscan food with a variety of fragrant home-baked desserts. Portions are generous and prices reasonable.
6. Oltre il Giardino, Panzano
Piazza G Bucciarelli 42 • 055 852 828 • €€
Enjoy generous portions, intimacy and picture-postcard views. The menu changes daily. Advance booking is advised.
7. Trattoria dell’Abbondanza, Pistoia
Via dell’Abbondanza 10 • 0573 368 037 • Closed Wed • €
Cosy eatery behind Piazza del Duomo serving superb Tuscan fare. Try the glazed figs.
8. Baghino, Prato
Via dell’Accademia 9 • 0574 27 920 • Closed Sun & Mon L • €€€
Tuscan and Italian dishes at the best restaurant in the historic town centre.
9. L’Antica Scuderia
Via Badia a Passignano 17, Badia a Passignano • 055 807 1623 • Closed Tue • €€
Classic Tuscan dining (see L’Antica Scuderia, Badia a Passignano) amid an ocean of Chianti vines.
10. Albergaccio, Castellina
Via Fiorentina 63 • 0577 741 042 • Closed Sun • €€
A creative, nouvelle touch is given to Tuscan dishes, such as ricotta gnocchi under shaved black truffles and thyme.
Elegant interiors of Albergaccio