Picturesque, peaceful Victoria is the perfect getaway from bustling Vancouver. Known as the City of Gardens, it boasts more than 3,000 hanging baskets along its pretty streets. Established as a fort in 1843 by the Hudson’s Bay trading company, Victoria soon became a city of prestige and influence. It grew up around Beacon Hill Park, created in 1858 by Governor James Douglas. When Victoria became BC’s capital in 1868, the growing city attracted excellent architects such as Francis Mawson Rattenbury. Today the city buzzes around the Inner Harbour. Nearby is the oldest Chinatown in Western Canada, the Art Gallery of Greater Victoria, and the home of Victoria’s most famous artist, Emily Carr.
Impressive, gray granite buildings house the provincial legislature. Overlooking the Inner Harbour, they were completed in 1898 by a newcomer, 25-year-old Francis Mawson Rattenbury from Leeds, England. At night, the Neo-Classical structure is a wonderful sight, illuminated by 3,560 sparkling light bulbs.
The luxury château-style landmark hotel (For further details see Fairmont Empress Hotel, Victoria) overlooking the Inner Harbour was designed by Rattenbury and built by the Canadian Pacific Railway in 1908. It is done up in grand style, with towering brick walls partially covered in ivy. The Crystal Ballroom shows off 18 crystal chandeliers and a mirrored ceiling.
Built in 1864, the Carr family home typifies the sensibilities of the Victorian era. The architecture has been described as both English Gingerbread and San Francisco Victorian, inspiring the restoration of many of the area’s old houses. Emily Carr, one of Canada’s best-known artists and writers, was born here in 1871. Step into the formal dining room, parlor, and sitting room to see the Carrs’ public face, reflecting everyday life then relax with a cup of tea on the veranda.
The Inner Harbour is the historic center of Victoria. A mix of yachts, fishing boats, ferries, and float planes dock here, while pedestrians happily stroll along a wide, curved walkway. The harbor provides excellent views of the historic parliament buildings and the imposing Fairmont Empress Hotel.
Victoria’s Chinatown once rivaled San Francisco’s for size. Today it’s an eclectic two-block area, signaled by the ornate Gate of Harmonious Interest. Chinatown was known as the Forbidden City by the European populace of the day. Once notorious Fan Tan Alley, said to be the narrowest street in Canada, hid gambling dens and a thriving opium industry. Today, restaurants, groceries, artists’ studios, and souvenir shops fill the bustling streets of this designated heritage area.
>Known for its Native artifacts and art, and displays highlighting BC’s history and natural wonders, the museum has excellent exhibits ranging from prehistory to the First Peoples Gallery. The IMAX Victoria Theatre and Thunderbird Park are also on the site (For further details see Royal British Columbia Museum).
Housed in an 1889 mansion, this gallery is known for its Asian collection, including a Shinto shrine in the Asian garden. Paintings and literary work by local artist Emily Carr are another highlight.
Noted for its gnarled Garry oak trees and 350-year-old Chinese bell, the park, dating from the mid-1800s, is a lovely place to stroll and picnic. Over 2,000 varieties of plants and trees, a rose garden, wooden bridges, and stream.
This four-story stone mansion was built in the late 1880s for coal baron Robert Dunsmuir, who died soon after it was completed, leaving wife Joan and 11 children to squabble over the estate. Its 39 rooms each exude turn-of-the-19th-century elegance. Highlights include period furnishings, stained glass windows, a sandstone fireplace, and a grand white oak staircase. The views of the ocean and mountains from the tower are magnificent.
Three floors of coastal history include the stories of the giant canoes of the Coast Salish First Peoples, the tall ships of the first European explorers, and pirate ships and whalers. Tumultuous tales of coastal shipwrecks are gruesomely fascinating. On the top floor is the former courtroom of notorious Matthew Baillie Begbie, known as the Hanging Judge. The 19th-century courtroom is preserved in all its glory.
Morning
Starting at the corner of Wharf and Government, stroll 10 minutes north on Government Street. Shops along the way include some suitably British purveyors.
At Fisgard St, the colorful Gate of Harmonious Interest welcomes you to Chinatown. Explore the area for an hour, dipping into tiny Fan Tan Alley, off Fisgard St. Continue west to Wharf St, then on to Bastion Square, the heart of Old Town, where fur traders boozed and brawled in the days of Fort Victoria.
The Maritime Museum of British Columbia is in a dignified former courthouse on the square. Devote an hour to its displays before heading to • Irish Times Pub • 1200 Government St, for tasty fish and chips.
Afternoon
Admire the marine traffic from the Inner Harbour promenade. At the far end of the harbor, cross Belleville Street to the statue of a youthful Queen Victoria on the grounds of the BC Parliament Buildings. The fascinating Royal British Columbia Museum next door will take at least two hours to peruse.
Exit the museum on the east side to admire the totems in Thunderbird Park before checking out nearby historic Helmcken House. Cross Belleville St to the Fairmont Empress Hotel for a glimpse of the grandiose lobby.
Replenish with dinner or a drink at Red Fish Blue Fish on Broughton St Pier.
Also known as British Importers, this high-end shop features men’s off-the-rack sportswear, suits, and accessories; also women’s sportswear.
Vertical space in this closet-sized shop makes for unusual displays. T-shirts, scarves, bags, and more, all screen-printed by hand.
Head to this lifestyle boutique for carefully chosen homewares, jewelry, footwear, and leather goods, as well as exclusive skin-care brands and a spa.
Silk Road offers a tea tasting bar similar to a wine bar. In addition to tea, it boasts a spa (For further details see silk road spa) and its own line of natural body care products.
Hundreds of purses crowd the shop: from glitzy clutch bags to industrial laptop bags. Check out She She Shoes across the street.
At this unisex boutique mod meets boho-chic, from the runway to a rock show. Pieces by international designers and homegrown talent create a unique range of clothing, as well as an eclectic selection of shoes.
Gifts from around the world, with a focus on India, Indonesia, China, and France. Home accessories include mats, iron sconces, baskets, linens, bath products, art, and curios.
Inspired by quaint Paris jewelry boutiques, the owner stocks mainly Canadian-made pieces in both dainty and chunky styles.
A magnificent store with a wide range of books from Canada, the US and the UK.
Discover one-of-a-kind silverware, glass and china, fine art, furniture, and jewelry on upper Fort St.
A variety of colonial-themed dining venues await at Victoria’s grandest hotel. Especially popular is the formal afternoon tea, served daily since 1908 – reservations are required.
A small restaurant on the edge of Chinatown that serves impeccable American and international cuisine made with locally-sourced ingredients. Reservations recommended.
Canada’s oldest licensed brewpub’s waterfront dining room menu includes all-natural smoked meats and sausages, perfect companions to the assortment of beers on tap.
Local organic produce, meat, and wild seafood are on offer at this brewpub, marina, and restaurant, in an historic 1894 waterfront property. Classics such as burgers and fries go especially well with a craft brew.
French bistro dishes – lamb shank, mussels, and frites – using local products.
Set in a shipping container on the inner harbor, this canteen-style fish restaurant serves up sustainable seafood.
Fine Northern Italian food; heated courtyard. Wood oven-roasted meats and pizzas, pastas, and seafood arrive with a flourish.
Linguine, lasagna, and fettuccine are simple and satisfying. Pag’s bread is coveted.
Huge portions of noodle and rice dishes come in decorative boxes, at eight levels of spiciness.
Progressive West Coast cuisine including fondues, rack of lamb, seafood, and vegetarian entrées.
The Old Quarter, built during the days when Nanaimo was a coal-mining town, has many 19th-century buildings, including the 1895 Nanaimo Court House. Stroll along the Harbourfront Walkway, stopping at The Bastion military museum. Nanaimo Downtown Farmers’ Market is held next to Bastion on Fridays (May–Oct). Nanaimo is a good starting point for wildlife tours.
This pastoral valley is a mix of forests and farmland. Local wines, ciders, and gourmet cheeses attract gastronomically minded visitors by car and touring bicycles. Cowichan Lake is Vancouver Island’s main freshwater lake and a terrific spot for swimming, canoeing, and fishing. The Cowichan River is a designated heritage treasure, famed for its fly fishing.
When the sawmill, the basis of its economy, closed in 1983, Chemainus transformed itself into a picturesque seaside town. More than 40 giant murals by local and international artists appear throughout the town, depicting the region’s history.
Visitors flock to these islands in the Strait of Georgia to enjoy their quietness and natural beauty. Salt Spring with its many artists’ studios, and Galiano, which has a lovely provincial park, are the most popular island destinations. Saturna, Pender, Mayne, and Gabriola are the other major islands. Each has its own personality; all are accessible by BC Ferries from Swartz Bay (For further details see Ferries).
Duncan is known as the City of Totems for the 80 Coast Salish poles displayed around town. At the Quw’utsun’ Cultural Centre see carvers at work, and some of the best Native arts and crafts in BC. The focus of the BC Forest Discovery Centre is the province’s heyday of logging. In summer, a 1920s steam train carries passengers past heritage buildings and through a rainforest.
For over a century, the incomparable Butchart Gardens, wrung out of a worked-out quarry, have awed visitors with their lush and varied beauty.
An archipelago of some 100 rugged islands and islets is paradise for nature lovers, kayakers, and scuba divers. The area around Barkley Sound has outstanding views of coastal rainforest, beaches, and sea caves. Accessible only by boat, a guided tour is the best way to experience this isolated wilderness. Majestic Ocean Kayaking in Uclulet offers whale watching and specialty tours.
Parksville’s beautiful Rathtrevor Beach is easily accessible for waterside sports and activities. Dip your toes in the gentle surf, build sandcastles, dig clams, canoe, or camp along the 4 miles (7 km) of sand. Swim in the warmest saltwater north of California. Nearby are mini-golf courses, bistros, and art studios for one-of-a-kind souvenirs.
Beachcombers and kayakers find delightful Qualicum Beach and its nearby British-style village a pedestrian-friendly stopover. The curved beach presents magnificent sunsets.
Massive old-growth Douglas firs, some 600 years old, tower overhead in this mystic rainforest only 12 miles (19 km) from Victoria. Once a fishing ground for the Coast Salish, miners overran the park during the Gold Rush of the late 1850s. An annual fall salmon run on the Goldstream River attracts hundreds of majestic bald eagles. Dropping 155 ft (48 m) into a canyon pool, the park’s waterfall is easily reached by a five-minute walk along a trail. A visitor house offers a variety of weekend activities.
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