Villages
1. Almonaster La Real
From a distance, this lovely pueblo blanco in Huelva Province looks like a sprinkling of snow amid the green of the surrounding forests. The citadel features one of the oldest mosques in the region, dating from the 10th century.
2. Alajar
Another pretty Huelva Province village, where the stone houses seem ageless. There are some nice Baroque churches too. More intriguing, however, is the mystical importance of the place, as seen in the hallowed caves and hermitage on the cliff above the town.
3. El Rocio
Deserted most of the year except for the handful of residents – who still customarily get around on horseback – this town fills up to overflowing with as many as one million pilgrims during the annual Romería (for further details see El Rocío’s Romería). It’s worth a visit at any time, however, to take in its wonderful Wild West-style architecture, as well as to book a tour of the nearby Coto de Doñana nature reserve.
4. Vejer de la Frontera
This inland village in Cádiz Province probably retains its quintessential Moorishness more than any other town in Andalucía. It stands gleaming white on a hill with a view of the coast, and its warren of maze-like alleys and byways is virtually indistinguishable from any North African town. Before the Spanish Civil War, women here wore a traditional veiled garment like the Muslim heshab, called the cobijado; now they are only worn during August festival.
5. Arcos de la Frontera
The historic part of this town is from the Cuesta de Belén to the Puerta de Matrera – a zone that has been a recognized national monument since 1962. Consequently, it is beautifully preserved. Central to the area is the Plaza del Cabildo, with ancient walls in evidence and set about with orange trees. Unfortunately the castle below the square is not open to the public, but the terrace of the parador opposite is a fine place for a drink with a view (for further details see Arcos de la Frontera).
6. Zahara de la Sierra
The town’s name means “flower” in Arabic and this quiet little hamlet lives up to its implications. Scented with orange groves, it’s a delight to see on the approach and offers equally fine views once there. The ruined castle, however, stands witness to tougher times. In the 15th century it was attacked continually, sought by both Muslims and Christians for its position guarding the northern access route to the Serranía de Ronda.
7. Sabiote
This hamlet is a hidden gem. It boasts a Roman pedigree, its medieval walls are largely intact, and it has one of the most impressive castles in the region – Moorish in origin but restored by the famed architect Andrés de Vandelvira, who was born here. He also designed several mansions for local nobility.
8. Iznatoraf
This mountain eyrie of a place opens out onto 360-degree panoramas of the Cazorla highland. The best view is from the mirador above the cliff at the village’s northern edge.
9. Cazorla
Simple whitewashed cubes cluster around a citadel here, while birds of prey overhead remind you that this is the southwestern entrance to the Sierra de Cazorla. The town’s position made it a prize for Moors and Christians, hence the castle in town and the ruined La Iruela, 1 km (0.5 miles) away.
10. Castril
At the foot of an imposing stone outcropping and surrounded by the Parque Natural de la Sierra de Castril, this enchanting town dates back to Roman times. The parish church dominates the upper reaches, while down below there surges a mountain torrent.
