Cadiz
Glowing white in the intense southern light, Cádiz inspired the poet Lord Byron to praise its heavenly blue setting, gorgeous women and sensuous lifestyle. Nowadays it is one of Andalucía’s under-visited treasures. According to ancient chronicles, it was founded by the Phoenicians as Gadir (“Fortress”) in 1104 BC, giving it a good claim to being Europe’s oldest city. Under the Romans it became Gades and was notable as the city where Julius Caesar held his first public office. Having been almost completely destroyed by an Anglo-Dutch raid in 1596, the old part of the present city is pure 18th-century and has remained virtually unchanged since then.
1. Barrio del Populo
The Barrio del Pópulo is the medieval heart of the city, which still retains its three 13th-century gates. The main entrance of what’s left of the 18th-century city wall, the Puerta de Tierra, marks the boundary between the old city and modern-day Cádiz.
2. Plaza San Juan de Dios
On the edge of the Barrio del Pópulo is this palm-fringed plaza, dating from the 16th century. Facing the port, it forms the hub of city life.
3. Catedral Nueva
The “New Cathedral” was begun in 1722. The belltower, or Torre de Poniente (western tower), offers superb views of the city below.
Catedral Nueva • Plaza Catedral • 956 28 61 54 • Open 10am–6:30pm Mon–Sat, 1:30–6:30pm Sun • Adm €5.00
Torre de Poniente • Open 10am–6pm daily (mid-Jun–mid-Sep: to 8pm) • Adm €5.00
4. Iglesia de Santa Cruz & Teatro Romano
In the midst of the Barrio del Pópulo is this church dating from 1260 and the ruins of a Roman theatre.
5. Plaza de las Flores
This bustling market square is also known as the Plaza de Topete – named after the tophet, a type of ancient Phoenician temple, that once stood here.
6. Torre Tavira
The highest tower in the city offers great views from its 46 m (150 ft) height.Torre Tavira • C/Marqués del Real Tesoro 10 • 956 21 29 10 • Open 10am–6pm daily (May–Sep: to 8pm) • Adm €4.00
7. Hospital de Mujeres
This Baroque former hospital’s main attraction is the chapel’s painting of the Extasis de San Francisco by El Greco.Hospital de Mujeres • C/Hospital de Mujeres • 956 80 70 18 • Open 10am–1:30pm & 5:30–8pm Mon–Fri, 10am–1:30pm Sat
8. Museo de las Cortes de Cadiz
A mural in this museum eulogizes Cádiz as the birthplace of liberalism. On 29 March 1812 Spain’s first liberal constitution was conceived here, a document that played a major role in shaping modern European politics. The museum is currently closed for renovation.
9. Oratorio de la Santa Cueva
This elliptical Neo-Classical chapel has an upper church with an elegant dome supported by Ionic columns. Three frescoes by Goya depict miraculous moments from the life of Christ.
10. Museo de Cadiz
Archaeological finds and Baroque paintings are the museum’s forte. Exhibits include a pair of 5th-century BC Phoenician marble sarcophagi, one male and one female, showing Greek and Egyptian influences; Roman shipwreck finds; and works by Zurbarán, Murillo and others.Museo de Cadiz • Plaza Mina • 856 10 50 23 • Open Jun–mid-Sep:9am–3:30pm Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm Sun; 16 Sep–May 10am–8:30pm Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm Sun • Adm €1.50 (free for EU members)
Los Carnavales
The vibrant Carnaval celebrations in this port town are the most exhilarating in all of Spain. In fact, so dear is this annual blow-out to gaditanos (as the locals call themselves), that it was the only such event in the country that Franco’s forces failed to suppress during the decades of dictatorship. The festival’s various traditions date back to the 15th century, when the town had a significant Genoese enclave, though some claim there is also a strong Cuban influence.
Tip: You must book up to a year ahead for accommodation during Carnaval.
