INDEX

Page numbers in italics refer to captions

A

accent color 80

acrylics 70, 71

adhesives 62–63

Adobe Illustrator 63, 77

tutorial 98, 99–101

Adobe Photoshop 63, 77

tutorial 113, 113–16

agents 8, 215, 217

airhostess uniform 122

American Vogue 225

anatomy 7, 30–31

Armani, Giorgio 13

Art Deco 140, 142

Art Department 217

art materials 62–77, 62

Art Nouveau 140, 141, 142

artistic techniques 8, 62–92

B

backgrounds 33

Bagshaw, Tom 8, 38, 39, 51

interview 158

Photoshop tutorial 113, 113–16

Bakkum, Vincent 11, 51, 70, 70

interview 152

Bakst, Leon 141

Ball, Victoria interview 180

Ballets Russes 141

ballpoint pens 67, 67

bangles 12, 12

Barbier, Georges 142

beach huts 11

beads 89

Beardsley, Aubrey 142

Beaton, Cecil 144

Bellows, George 10

Benito, Eduardo Garcia 143

Bérard, Christian 145

Berning, Tina 8, 26, 26, 28, 67, 67, 71, 71

interview 188

mixed media tutorial 94, 94–6

Berthold, François 150

bitmapped tools 76

Blackwell, Su 28

body proportions 7, 30, 33, 40–3, 40, 41, 42

Bolin, Guillermo 143

Bolongaro Trevor 8, 86, 130, 130, 131, 132

books 12–13

Botero, Fernando 149

Bouché, René 145, 145, 218, 221

Bouet-Willaumez, René 144, 145, 145

brainstorming 14

Brissaud, Pierre 142

Brooks, Jason 146, 146, 150, 150, 221

buildings: structure 11

butterfly theme 14, 14, 15

buyers 133

C

Caballero, Paula Sanz 73, 73

interview 157

CAD/CAM systems 132, 132

cameras 10, 76

Campbell, Stephen 143, 143

candy wrappers 64

card 64

careers 8, 214–26

Carlstedt, Cecilia 8, 16, 17, 22, 55, 69, 77, 83, 84, 86, 88, 91 , 92

interview 186

Carosia, Ed 51, 67

interview 164

cartridge paper 64

Chanel, Coco 143

charcoal 62

checks 83, 83

chicken theme 19, 19

chiffon 86

Chin, Marcos 8, 142, 142, 151

Illustrator tutorial 98, 99–101

interview 162

Clark, Ossie 37

Clark, Peter 12, 64, 65

clothing: construction 32, 33

collage 64, 64, 65

mixed media 74–75, 74

collecting inspirational items 12–13

collections 124

presenting 128, 208, 209

color 78–81

accent 80

complementary 79

in fashion illustration 80–81, 80, 81

forecasting 80

mixing 79

in mood boards 122

primary 78, 79

secondary 78, 79

tertiary 78, 79

warm and cool 79

color palettes: fashion 80–81, 80, 81

color wheel 78, 79

color-prediction agencies 80

colored backing papers 64

colored pencils 66

commercial fashion illustrator 224–26

complementary colors 79

computers 63

collage 74, 75

linked to sewing machine 62

templates 47

concept boards see mood boards continuous-line exercise 37, 37

“conversation pieces” 209

cool colors 79

costing 132

Cubism 142

customer profile 124

cutting mats 62

D

Dagmar 146

Dalí, Salvador 140

Davidsen, Cathrine Raben 22–24, 23

Degas, Edgar 140

Delhomme, Jean-Philippe 150

denim 85, 85, 87

design roughs 8, 124–28, 124, 127, 133

Diesbach, Danielle de 222

digital illustration 76–77, 76, 77, 150, 151

digital portfolios 74, 211

Dignan, James

interview 204

Dior, Christian 145

“don’t-look-back” exercise 36, 36

Dover, Poppy 208, 209, 210

Downton, David 144, 144, 150, 218–21, 218, 220

drape 92, 92 drawing 7

design details 131

exercises 36–37, 36, 37

human figure 30–60

materials 66–67

observational 35, 36

tutorial 109, 109–12

dress for interview 214

Dryden, Helen 143

Dufkova, Petra

interview 206

E

Einstein, Albert 14

embellished fabrics 87

embroidered fabrics 87

embroidery

machine 62

threads 73

tutorial 102, 102, 104

Emin, Tracy 12

English Roses (Madonna) 226, 226

equipment 62

Eric (Carl Erikson) 144, 144, 145, 221

Erté142

exaggeration 131, 143

of human features 40, 43, 43, 44

exhibitions 13

graduate 214

Expressionism 145

eyebrows 53

eyelashes 52

eyes 53

F

fabrics 73

checks 83, 83

denim 85, 85

design roughs 126, 127

drape 92, 92

embellished 87

embroidered 87

knitted 84, 85, 85

on mood boards 122

patterns 91, 91

prints 91, 91

rendering 83–92

ribbing 84

sheer 86–87, 86

shiny 88, 89

sourcing 126

stripes 83

textures and weaves 84

woolen 84, 84

woven 85, 85

faces 50–52, 50, 51, 53

fashion design

presentation 133

range-building 126–28

fashion illustration 8

color palettes 80–81, 80, 81

contemporary 151–206

history 140–50

fashion illustrator 218–21

commercial 224–26

feathers 89, 89

feet 58, 58

Fellows, Craig 8, 19, 19, 136–37, 136, 137, 138

figure see human figure films 142

fineliner pens 67, 131

flannel 84

“flappers” 143

flats 8, 131–32

fleece 84

Folies Bergères 142

Forbes, Montana

interview 196

found objects 12, 74

Fraser, Vince 211

interview 166

freelancing 215

Fulvimari, Jeffrey 224–26, 224, 225, 226

fur 89, 89

further education 8, 212–14

portfolios 210–11

G

gabardine 84

galleries 11

Gardiner, Louise 8, 73, 73, 80, 81

embroidery tutorial 102, 102, 104

interview 194

Gazette du Bon Ton 142

georgette 86

Gibb, Kate 77, 77

interview 176

Gibson, Charles Dana 140, 141

Goetz, Silja 66, 67, 74

interview 174

gouache 71

graduates

exhibitions 214

Fashion Week, London 215

portfolios 136, 136, 137, 138, 210–11

Grafstrom, Ruth 144

graphics tablet 76

graphite sticks 66

Gregor, Max 45, 45, 55, 80, 81, 81

interview 184

Gruau, René 145, 218, 221

Gustafson, Mats 142, 146, 150, 221

H

hair 55, 55

hand embroidery 102

threads 73

hands 56, 57

Harper’s Bazaar 141, 142, 144

heads 50–2, 50, 51, 53

Hegardt, Amelie 8, 69, 69

ink tutorial 118, 118–19

interview 190

Held, John, Jr 143, 143

herringbone 84

highlights 89

history 8, 140–50

Høj, Iben 22–28, 22, 23, 24, 26, 84, 92, 133, 133, 134, 134, 135

Hollar, Wenceslaus 140

hue 79

Hulme, Sophie 8, 88, 124–28, 124, 127, 128

human figure

clothed 33, 83, 92

drawing 30–60

exercises 36–37, 36, 37

from life 30–38, 32, 34, 35

observational 35, 36–37

exaggerating features 40, 43, 43, 44

faces 50–52, 50, 51, 53

feet 58, 58 hands 56, 57

heads 50–52, 50, 51, 53

height 42, 42

measuring 33, 33, 42, 42

nude 30–33, 31

poses 41, 41 , 45

proportions 7, 30, 33, 40–43, 40, 41, 42

scale 33

silhouette 60, 60

templates 47, 47

humor 43, 60, 143

I

ideas-bank 12

illustration agents 8, 215, 217

Illustrator (Adobe) 63, 77

tutorial 98, 99–101

Indian ink 68

ink 68

tutorial 118, 118–19

inspiration 7, 10–19

collecting items 12–13

sources of 10–13

themes 16–18

interviews 8, 213–14

Iribe, Paul 141

J K

jobs: finding 214–16

journals 13

Keogh, Tom 145

Kiraz 146, 146

knitted fabrics 84, 85, 85

knives 62

L

lace 86, 87

Lady’s Magazine 140

Laine, Laura 26, 92, 133, 135

lamé 89

Larocca, Alma

interview 168

layout pad 126, 128

layout paper 64

lead pencils 66

leather 89

legs: elongating 43, 43, 44

Leonardo da Vinci 31

Lepape, Georges 141, 141

life drawing 34, 34, 35

Life magazine 141

light box 46, 62

lips 53

location

sketching on 33

lookbooks 133

Lopez, Antonio 146, 146, 149, 218

M

McCartney, Stella 148

machine embroidery 102, 102, 104

threads 73

Madonna 226, 226

magazines 13

mail-out folders 22–28, 22, 23, 24, 26, 133, 134, 135

markers 67

Marshall, Francis 34, 35, 144

Martin, Charles 142

Marval, Jacqueline 28

masking tape 63

Matisse, Henri 37, 140, 145

Mattotti, Lorenzo 142, 146

measuring methods

human figure 33, 33, 42, 42

medium: finding 62

Michelangelo Buonarroti 31

mind-mapping 14, 15

mixed media 31

collage 74–75, 74

tutorial 94, 94–96

mohair 84

mood boards 122, 122

movies 142

Mucha, Alphonse 141

museums 11

N

net 86, 87

Nishinaka, Jeff 64, 64

interview 172

non-waterproof ink 68

noses 53

nostalgia 11–12

nude figure 30–33, 31, 34

O

O’Connor, Erin 218, 220, 220

oil pastels 62

oils 71

organdie 86, 87

organza 86, 98

Orientalism 141

outline drawing exercise 37, 37

P

packaging 12, 64

paints 62, 68–69, 71

Palmer, Gladys Perint 149

paper 64, 64

paper sculpture 64, 64

Parrish, Maxfield 225

past

nostalgia for 11–12

pastel paper 64

pastels 62

patterned fabrics 91, 91

pencils 62, 66

pens 62, 67

personality: depicting 43, 43

Persson, Stina 24–26, 24, 55, 58

interview 154

Pesakoff, Stephanie 216, 217

photocopiers 63

photographs 10, 10, 46, 46, 47

photomontage: tutorial 108, 108–09

Photoshop (Adobe) 63, 77

tutorial 113, 113–16

Picasso, Pablo 10, 16, 31–33, 31, 145

pinstripes 84

plaids 83

Plank, George 143

Plovmand, Wendy

interview 200

pochoir 141

Poiret, Paul 141

Pollard, Douglas 143

Pop Art 146

portfolios 8, 133

arranging work in 209–10

cases for 209

digital 74, 211

further education 210

graduate 136, 136, 137, 138, 210–11

presentation 122, 208–11, 208, 209, 210

professional 211

size 208

poses 41, 41 , 45, 45

postcards 13, 13

postgraduate study 215

postgraduate travel 216

Pourquois Pas? 220, 221

presentation 8, 122–37

fashion design 133

portfolios 122, 208–11, 208, 209, 210

presentation boards 19

primary colors 78, 79

printed fabrics 91, 91

professional portfolio 211

Promostyl 80, 222–23, 222

psychedelia 146

:puntoos 58, 60, 192

R

range-building 126–28

Realism 148

Remfrey, David 148

researching themes 13–14

residencies 215

résumé 216

ribbing 84

Rounthwaite, Graham 150, 150

Royère, Lysiane de 222

rulers 62

Ryo, Masaki

interview 160

S

satin 89

saturation 79

scale of human figure 33

scalpels 62

scanner 76

schematic drawing 131, 132

Schiaparelli, Elsa 144, 144

Schulz, Charles M. 225

secondary colors 78, 79

self-employment 215

selling yourself 216

sequins 88, 89

set design 10

settings 33

sewing machines 62

computer programs 62

shades 79

sheer fabrics 86–87, 86

Shimizu, Yuko 38, 39, 58, 81, 81

interview 202

shiny fabrics 88, 89

shoes 58, 58

silhouette 60, 60

Singh, Sara 38, 38, 53, 57, 68, 68

interview 170

sketchbooks 7, 10, 16–19

buying 18

quick studies 34, 34, 35

research material 17

skin-tone markers 67

Smith, Kiki 28

Smith, Lewis 43, 43

Smith, Sir Paul 10

snow theme 16, 17

software 63, 77

specification drawings 8, 131, 132, 132

spray adhesive 62–63

spray paint 71

steel rulers 62

stenciling 141, 141

story boards see mood boards

style 221

Surrealism 140, 144

T

taffeta 89

target market 124

technical drawings 131

teeth 52

templates 10, 45, 45, 46–47, 47, 126

tertiary colors 78, 79

textures 84

theatrical costume 10

themes:

butterfly 14, 14, 15

chicken 19, 19

inspiration 16–18

researching 13–14

winter 16, 17

Time magazine 141

tints 79

tissue paper 64

tones 79

Tonge, Sophia Bentley 122

Topshop 145, 145, 220

Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri 140

tracing 46

travel 10–11, 216

Trend Book 222, 222

trend forecasting 222

tulle 86

tutorials 8, 94–119

tweeds 84

U

university

courses 212

interviews 213–14

visiting 212–13

V

value (color) 79

Vanity Fair 144

vector tools 76, 77

velour 89

velvet 89

Verlaine 226

Vertes, Marcel 144

viewfinder 33, 33

Vionnet, Madame 143

Viramontes, Tony 146, 148

Vogue 142, 143, 144, 145, 146

voile 86

W X Y Z

Wagt, Robert 8, 43, 43

photomontage tutorial 108, 108–09

interview 178

wallpaper 10, 11, 64

warm colors 79

water-soluble art materials 66

watercolor paints 68–69

watercolor papers 64

weaves 84

websites 211

Wester, Annika: interview 182

White, Edwina 8, 55, 67

drawing tutorial 109, 109–12

interview 198

winter theme 16, 17

woolen fabrics 84, 84

working drawings 131

wrapping paper 64

Xerox machines 63

Zoltan 149, 149