Index

Figures in italics refer to captions, figures in bold refer to case studies

Aalam, Kat and Oz (Damsel) 102, 172

accountants 26, 35, 182, 183, 187

added value 43, 108, 109

Adidas 51

Adler, Silas (Soulland) 174

advertising 43–4, 83, 108, 155, 169

Agent Provocateur 163

allocators 72

angel financing 180

asos.com 146

assessing yourself 25

Assirati, Simon 158

attorneys 26, 33, 34, 37, 138, 141, 142

Audigier, Christian 54, 55

banks 179

Bathing Ape, A 162, 189

Belle & Bunty 168–9, 169

Berliner, Jacob Kampp (Soulland) 174

bespoke 9

book-keeping 186–7

Bora Aksu 9

boutiques 10, 96, 146, 188

brand names/trademarks 38, 43–6, 47, 50, 189

Burberry 10

Burton 15

business cards 135, 162

business corporations 34–5, 38, 46, 47

business plans 180–3

businesses, setting up

companies 36, 38, 46, 47

corporations 34–5, 38, 46, 47

franchises 38–9

liability 33, 34, 36, 37, 38, 46

license to retail 38, 39

management/governance 33, 34–5, 36

partnerships 28–9, 37, 38

preparatory steps 24–6

setting objectives 26–7

sole proprietorships 23–4, 33–4, 38, 46, 47, 73

see also financial matters

buyers 69, 70, 96, 102, 131, 133, 133, 135, 135

buying behavior 155–6

calendars

delivery of goods 142

designer trading year 17

fast fashion trading year 17

production 127

show 10

wholesale sales 132

call-ins 171–2

care labels 162

Carvalho, Gil 33, 76–7, 121, 121

Castle, Nin 13

catwalk shows 83, 93, 131, 165, 165–9

celebrities, dressing 54, 95, 172

Center for Fashion Enterprise (CFE) 128

chain stores 146

Chanel 139

Charles, Caroline 104, 177, 192–3

Chloé 10

Choo, Jimmy 43

classics 89, 90

CMT (cut, make, trim) 113, 114, 118

COD (cash on delivery) 143

collaborations 167–9

Collection Première Düsseldorf 98

collections

balancing 105

developing 104–5

pre-collections 18, 131, 132

selling see retailing; wholesale selling

color (logos) 51

commerciality 29, 69, 102, 105

companies, limited liability (LLCs) 36, 38, 46, 47

competitors, analyzing 80–1, 83, 84, 85, 101

consistency, importance of 104, 104

consumer shows 150, 151

costing products 125, 183–5, 191

Crabb, Suzanna (Suzanna) 116–17

credit cards 144

credit unions 179

Crews, Malcolm 52–3, 155

customers

buying behavior 155–6

impact diagram 109

profiling/targeting 69, 79–80, 83, 89, 101–2

cutting patterns 57, 69, 70, 71, 117

cycles, fashion 89, 90

delivery of goods

calendar 142

common terms 126

landed prices 119, 141

lead times 114, 122

by manufacturers 122, 125, 126, 189

and online retailing 149

payment terms 119, 141, 142, 143, 188

shipping/shipping terms 115, 119, 125, 141

split delivery 189

department stores 10, 96, 119, 145, 146, 151, 188

design development 67, 69–70, 114, 116

designers 68, 69, 71

Diesel 43

Diffusion Media 163

direction (design element) 101–2

discount stores 146

distributors/distribution 67, 72–3, 83, 84, 138–9

agents compared 138–9

domain names 43, 47

e-commerce 146–50

eco fashion 11

Ed Hardy 54–5

Ei8ht 11, 12

employees see staffing matters

Estethica (exhibition) 11, 128

ethical fashion 11, 11, 20, 30, 83, 123, 128

exclusivity 10, 94, 120, 141

exhibitions 133–5, 134, 165

overseas 136

fabric 114, 116–17, 118, 120, 122

fabric agents 117

fabric fairs 116–17

fabric technologists 69, 71

Facebook 147, 149, 150, 164

factors 188–9

fads 90

fashion leaders and followers 92–4

fashion shoots 159–60

fashionability 108, 109

fast fashion 17–18, 131

figleaves.com 146

financial matters

cash flow 182, 186, 188, 189, 190

costing products 125, 183–5, 191

credit 119, 139, 143, 144, 179, 188, 189

expenses 177

grants 136, 180

income projections 26, 178

margins and markups 184–5, 191

net sales 102

prices/pricing 81, 83, 102, 103–4, 106, 119,183–5, 191

profits and losses 34, 35, 184, 185

raising finance 33, 35, 36, 40, 178–83, 189

sell-through rate 102

sponsorship 167–9, 180

start-up costs 177–8

taxation 34, 35, 36, 37, 188

see also insurance; payment terms

Fontaine, Anne 86–7, 107

fonts 51, 52, 53

forecasters, fashion 68

franchises 38–9

French Connection 43

function 108, 109

funding see financial matters

Galliano, John 43

Gap 11, 43, 146–7

garment technologists 69, 70, 71

Goodone 13

graders/grading patterns 71, 115, 118

Gregory, Amelia 163, 164

Gucci 10, 44, 46

Gunawardene, Otara (Odel) 110, 111

Hamer, Claire (Ei8ht) 12–13, 123–4

hanger appeal 105, 106

Hardy, David 67, 113

Hardy, Don Ed 54

Harrison, Howard (Knomo) 40

Harrods 101, 145

haute couture 9

health and safety 60

high fashion 94

H&M 11, 17

home, working from 57–60

home shopping TV networks 151 Hops, Alistair (Knomo) 40

house party retailing 151

individuality 40, 81, 102, 103–4

Ingwersen, Peter (Noir) 20, 23

innovation 90, 92–4

Innovative Design Protection and Piracy Prevention Act 97

insurance 59–60

Internet addresses see domain names invoices 143, 144, 145–6

Itochu 141

Jacobs, Marc 10, 43

journalists, fashion 72, 73, 96

Karan, Donna 139

Kianfar, Yasmin 30–1

Knomo 36, 40–1, 41, 46, 103, 168, 169

KokoFlow 150, 151

Kramer, Charlotte 74, 75

Kulture 2 Couture (K2C) 168

labels 162

Lauren, Ralph 10, 51, 139

leadership, fashion 95

leases 85

license to retail 38, 39

licensing agreements 131, 139, 141

lighting 58, 160, 166

limited liability companies (LLCs) 36, 38, 46, 47

limited partnerships (LPs) 37, 38

line sheets 161

little black dress (LBD) 89, 91

local governmental agencies 180

logos 43, 47, 50, 50–3

London Fashion Week 9, 11

lookbooks 123, 133, 134, 156–8, 157, 170, 171

L’Oréal 167

Mackay, Caroline (Knomo) 168–9

made-to-measure 9

Magic trade fair, Las Vegas 131, 135

manufacturers/manufacturing

cottage industry 113, 114, 118

cut, make, trim (CMT) 113, 114, 118

and delivery of goods 122, 125, 126, 189

full package 113–14, 116, 118, 125

in house 113, 114, 118

options 113–14

outsourcing 113–14

sourcing 12–14, 121–4

terms and conditions 125–6

market research 18, 25, 67, 79–81

marketing 72, 83, 84, 93, 102, 103–4, 138–9

marketing managers 72, 168

mass market fashion 9, 11, 94, 132, 146

Mattu, Ravi (interview) 28–9

McQueen, Alexander 43, 139

Medhurst, Deborah (no added sugar) 64

merchandisers 69, 70, 118

Micam (trade show) 76

minimums 114, 120

Miss Sixty 43

Mizani 168, 168

models 135, 160, 166

mood (design element) 101–2

motifs 50

net-a-porter.com 146

networking events 165

no added sugar 64–5

Noir 20–1, 83

Odel 110–11

online retailing 47, 146–50, 162–4

order forms 141–2, 143

orders, taking 115, 118

Osterlund, Rikard 159–60

outsourcing 113–14

overseas markets 119, 136, 138

packaging 115, 119

partnerships 28–9, 37, 38

pattern cutters/cutting 57, 69, 70, 71, 117

pattern graders/grading 71, 115, 118

payment terms 142–5

cash on delivery (COD) 143

consignment deals 144

and delivery of goods 119, 141, 142, 143, 188 deposits 142, 188

letters of credit 144

NET terms 143

pre-payments 142

sale or return 144

Perry, Fred 51

photography 135, 156, 158–60, 159, 166

Pose London 177

PR (public relations) 72, 76, 81, 83, 84, 93,103–4, 169–73

in house versus agencies 173

PR agencies 173

PR managers 72

pre-collections 18, 131, 132

Premier Vision (fabric fair) 117

Première Classe (trade show) 76

press, the 72, 73, 96, 108, 167, 169, 170–2, 173

press books 172

press days 167

press packs 170

press releases 170–1

prêt-à-porter see ready-to-wear

prices/pricing 81, 83, 102, 103–4, 106, 119,183–5, 191

private clients 150

product areas 15

production calendars 127

production managers 71, 114–15, 118–19

production process 67, 70–1, 114–19

production runs, calculating 115, 118, 142

promotion/promotional materials 47, 50, 83,138–9, 149, 155, 156–64

prospecting 136

public relations see PR

Pure London (trade show) 79

quality, importance of 15, 70, 103, 115, 119, 122

quality control 71, 115, 119, 119

Raeburn, Christopher 124, 128–9

range planning 105–8

ready-to-wear 9, 10

records, keeping 186–7

Red Pages 172

Rescue, Benoit (Knomo) 40, 46

researching see market research; trends, fashion

retail locations 84–5

retail managers 72, 73

retailing 102, 131–2, 136, 146–51

online 47, 146–50, 162–4

studio sales 133

see also sales and distribution

Rogers, Everett: Diffusion of Innovations 92–4

Russell, Nzinga (Mizani) 168

sales agents 137–9

sales and distribution 67, 72–3, 83, 84

sales assistants 72, 73

sales managers 72

sales tax 188

sample machinists 68, 69, 71, 71

sample sales 151

samples 114, 115, 116–17, 118, 122, 125

Schumacher 15, 69, 98–9, 105

Schumacher, Dorothee (Schumacher) 98, 99

seasons/seasonality 15, 17–18, 96–7, 104, 132

selling your collection see retailing; wholesale selling

shipping/shipping terms 115, 119, 125, 141

show cards 172, 172

signatures 43, 104, 105

size ranges 10, 71, 115, 118

Small Business Loan Scheme 40

Smith, Paul 139, 141

social media 147, 149, 150, 163–4

sole proprietorships 23–4, 33–4, 38, 46, 47, 73

Soulland 174–5

Spalding, Richard (Diffusion Media) 163, 164

Spears, Britney 54

specialty stores 146

specification drawings/specs 116, 116, 125

sponsorship 167–9, 180

staffing matters 74–5

Start, Philip (Start Boutique) 64

stationery 162

stockists, researching 84

storage issues 57, 58

studios 61–3, 133

stylists 72, 73

supply chains 18–19, 19, 67, 126

key jobs 67–73

sustainable fashion 11–13, 20, 123–4, 124,128–9

swing tickets 162, 162

SWOT analyses 25, 81, 108

taxation 34, 35, 36, 37, 188

television home shopping networks 151

templates, making 106–7, 109

Texworld (fabric fair) 117

Timberlake, Justin 54

toiles 115, 117, 117

Tokyo street style 89

Topshop 11, 17, 151

trade fairs/shows 10, 76, 79, 81, 81 trade names 38, 43, 46–7

trademarks see brand names

trading years 17

trends, fashion 89–90, 92, 96–7

and fast fashion movement 17–18

influences 94–6

researching 67, 68, 69, 114, 116

trialing products 94, 95

trimmings 113, 114, 116, 118, 120, 122

trunk shows 151

Turner, Niki (Kurt Geiger) 169

Twitter 147, 150, 164

unique selling points (USPs) 40, 81, 102, 103–4

URLs (uniform resource locators) 47

Vanderzee, James (Vie Digital) 147, 148

venture capital firms 180

Von Dutch 54

Vuitton, Louis 51

Walker, Karen 15, 16, 62, 105, 152–3

Ward, Ally (KokoFlow) 151

Watson, Clare 102

websites 162 see also online retailing

wholesale selling 131–46

calendar 132

line sheets 161

paperwork 141–2, 143, 144

payment terms 142–5, 188

sales window 131–2

workshops 61–3

WSA (trade show) 76

Yoga Show (trade show) 150

Zara 11, 17, 146–7

Zlotkin, Ari 86