Capturing light as it falls on a person’s body is a sure way to bring it to life, as you’re suddenly introducing a third dimension. Whether you like to color your sketches or leave them monochrome, you’ll get lots of enjoyment from making them glow in a pool of light. Depicting light is really adding shadow: Painting light is leaving out color, the contrast between light and shadow giving you the glow you need.
When it comes to color, there’s no need to fear a clash or strange, unrealistic skin or hair tones. In this chapter, I share how color can be straightforward and is best achieved with a small palette. Color is the magic that makes people look twice! I recommend making color as much a part of your voice as your line.
Light, in watercolor terms, is the absence of color. You can get away with a slick of very dilute yellow, but it’s better to err on the side of “glow” and put nothing at all on the figure, especially if you are depicting strong sunlight. The exception to this is if you are sketching on toned paper: When the paper is not white, practice drawing “light” with white gel pens, pastels, or gouache.
To know how to leave color out, you need to know how to put color in.
Tip
Keeping colors to a minimum reduces some of the issues involved in trying to capture a human form quickly under pressure. A surprisingly small range of colors can produce an astonishing variety of tones.
My human palette is good for hair, skin, and clothes, but experiment with a range of your own choosing. • Opera pink
• Lemon yellow
• Yellow ochre
• Burnt umber
• Indigo
• Payne’s grey
• Green apatite genuine
• Transparent red oxide
• Chrome orange
With these nine colors, you can do any skin or hair color, and a wide range of clothing colors—without clashing. But feel free to choose your own or any version of the colors I mentioned: Remember, your color choice is as much a personal choice as any other aspect of your sketching practice.
Straight hair is lighter in a band around the crown where the light hits it (this can be white and unpainted).
• The straighter the hair, the sharper the line between the hair color and the shiny part. Soften the color next to the band of shine.
• Curly hair doesn’t have that shiny band but has a corona of slightly lighter coloring around the top side of the hair.
• Get scribbly and don’t be too neat; it looks more natural.
• Don’t forget wispy bits, but always try to remember the direction of hair growth.
• Let the wind play a part in the way you draw hair.
• Use a few shades when painting hair in a close view; it looks more natural and more alive.
• Leave a rim of light at the edge if you’re not too close to your subject; it lifts the hair wonderfully.
• Hair is darker at the roots and nape of the neck and when you are looking through strands to hair at the back.
• Hair of older people is wispy and fine. Use a fine nib, or the fine side of your pen.
• White hair can be left white and unpainted.
A wide range of colors can be achieved with different dilution of each and mixing them in various proportions. Practice mixing the colors together to get a range of colors that look natural for skin. This is how I mix colors for various skin tones:
• Yellow ochre + opera pink in varying proportions = pale skin tone
• Yellow ochre + opera pink in varying dilutions = pale to medium skin tone
• Transparent red oxide + yellow ochre = medium skin tone
• Burnt umber + transparent red oxide = medium to dark skin tone
• Burnt umber + Payne’s grey = dark skin tone
No matter the skin color, I like to mix my base color, then add a little pink to warm it up slightly. Keep that touch of pink to a minimum; drop a tiny blob of paint into the color you have painted on the page, and let the water do the blending.
Diluting your color will give you great powers of subtlety and range. It can be a tricky thing to master, so practice, practice, practice. Remember: Wet onto wet, wet onto dry, but not wet onto half-dry.
The next section (see page 86) looks at combining light with color to make skin glow.
In watercolor, the way to make a color lighter is to add water. As a sketcher of people, the ability to get an almost infinite range of tones is valuable. When you’re painting skin, dilution is vital. Skin shades are delicate and subtle. Skin is smooth and can have a gentle glow, so you need to dilute your color, fading it to clear water, to show that lovely texture.
1. Clean a brush in water, wipe excessive water on the edge of the container so it is just damp, and dip the brush into the pan of paint. Transfer color onto a clean area of your palette.
2. Transfer a small amount of color onto another part of your palette. Add a small amount of clean water and you have a diluted, lighter version of your paint.
3. Use your absorbent paper sparingly: Use your brush as a mop rather than dabbing directly with the paper.
Tip
If you want a smooth surface in watercolor, the most important thing you do is—nothing. This probably applies to skin more than anything, due to the delicate nature of the surface of skin. You must leave it to dry. Do not be tempted to smooth out the brushstrokes with your brush, because you’ll make it worse. Do not add fresh paint to half-dry paint, as you will create a “bloom” or cauliflower, which is nearly impossible to fix. I have learned to embrace them as part of the signature of watercolor.
There are as many colors for clothing as there are colors in the world. Personal taste reigns, but you are less likely to clash if you stick to fewer colors.
Drawing patterns on clothing, and the accessories people wear, can be lots of fun. Watch for spots, stripes, checks, and tattoos.
Identify stand-out colors of the setting and repeat them in the clothing palette. Use the interior designer’s color theme and pick out parts of it in the clothing of your subjects, even if it means adjusting both.
Exaggerate the colors: Turn up the volume, so to speak, to get a sketch with impact.
Tip
A white gel pen is invaluable for clothing patterns, but make sure the base color is dark or the white won’t stand out.
Tips for Drawing Stripes and Spots
• Let stripes define and describe the contours of a body; look for how they appear and disappear.
• Curve a stripe to suggest the curve of an arm.
• Stripes are a very good way to tell the viewer about the drape of a garment.
• Dots are closer together as they near the edge of a curved surface.
• Spots lift a garment wonderfully, whether dark spots on light, or vice versa.
Fabric creases; skin doesn’t. Allow creases to be loose and free, just like the random way they come. In time, the creases will replace the imagined edges of a garment—with the first pull of a line.
You’re going to draw a lot of denim, hoodies, woolen sweaters, and jackets—a whole world of creases. Crease hotspots include:
• Inside hoods
• Elbows and wrists
• Knees and ankles
• At the torso, especially where a sweater meets the hips
• At the groin, where the legs become a torso
Now that we’ve looked at adding color to a sketch, we’re going to talk about bringing in a sense of light by taking it away.
With practice, you’ll find you paint less. You will notice the dark and light areas faster and faster with time, and your confidence in leaving color out—which is sometimes counterintuitive–will grow.
• Facing the scene you want to sketch, half-close your eyes. The darks and lights will immediately jump out at you. First, paint the lightest areas. Wait for the paint to dry. Then look for the shadows and carefully paint them on top.
• Look for areas that are thrown into shadow: Under the brim of a hat. Below the edge of a sleeve. The knees or shins under the hem of a dress.
• Shadows come in different colors. When adding areas in shadow, try to darken that particular color rather than just making it “dark” or gray. To darken skin, add a less dilute version of the color you used for the part of the face in the light. In strong sunlight, the border between light and dark should be crisp and sharp.
What skin, clothes, and hair have in common when it comes to light:
• A rim of light around the edge manifests with an absence of color.
• If the light is strong, the line is sharp.
• If the light is soft or overcast, the line is blended and soft. How skin, clothes, and hair are different when it comes to light:
• A face has lots of planes and each comes with its own little peak and trough of light and shadow.
• Hair has a corona of light near the top of the head.
• Clothes are easier—just slabs of color and pattern with unpainted or lighter areas where light is hitting the figure.
A little shadow can make all the difference. If you are lucky enough to encounter someone who is not intent on movement for a while, get stuck into those blue shadows.
If the sun is out, take your time and enjoy yourself. However, if you are in danger of losing the sun to a cloud, use a thin nib to outline your shadow: that way you won’t be left in the dark, so to speak.
There’s a lot more to the light as it hits a body than there is to the hair or a clothed body: There are so many planes, and light is a delicate thing.
When painting the face, consider the following:
• The planes on the face
• The way light hits the nose (on which side does it fall?)
• Shadows under the lower lip, the nose, the eye sockets
“I sketched this super-late in a bar on the last day of an artistic residency in Saint-Briac sur Mer (Brittany)”
—Lapin
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