Lisbon For
Fado Fans
Literally translated as “fate”, fado is a genre of music peculiar to Portugal that expresses longing and sorrow. The people of Lisbon have nurtured this poignant music in back-street cafés and restaurants for over 150 years, and it has altered little in that time.
t Musicians performing at Clube de Fado in the Alfama district
Fado Houses
The haunting melodies of fado can still be heard in designated “houses” throughout Lisbon, most of which offer a meal and drinks during the show (although it is considered impolite to make noise while the singer and guitarist are performing). Lisbon’s best fado houses tend to be run by fadistas themselves. Based on a love of music and on relationships with other performers, such houses offer an authentic taste of the traditional art form. Alfama, the birthplace of the genre, is host to myriad fado venues, but Bairro Alto’s maze of bars also holds gems such as Travessa da Queimada’s Café Luso, which first opened in 1927 and hosted the legendary fadista, Amália Rodrigues.
Museu do Fado
Set in a former bathhouse, this should be the first port of call for anyone looking to learn about the cultural and historical significance of fado. Exhibits trace the rise of fado, which originated in the 1800s in some of Portugal’s poorest streets and swelled to the iconic art form that is celebrated internationally today. Alongside photographs and paintings, there are recordings of famous singers on display, and a great selection of CDS in the shop.
Fado Vadio
Translating as bohemian or vagabond fado, this strand of the art form is performed outside of the dedicated, professional fado houses. Largely sung by amateurs, performances tend to be less slick than in the fado houses, but more emotionally charged. Head for the jumbled tascas and bars of Alfama to hear true fado vadio.
The Guitarra
Specific to Portuguese culture, the guitarra is a flat-backed instrument shaped like a mandolin, with twelve strings. It has evolved from a simple 19th-century design into a finely decorated piece, sometimes inlaid with mother-of-pearl. Considered an essential ingredient of good fado, the guitarra echoes and enhances the singer’s melody line.
DISCOVER Lisbon Your Way
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EAT Dine at these top fado restaurants. Clube de Fado ⌂ R. de São João da Praça 86 ∑ clube-de-fado.com ¡¡¡ Parreirinha de Alfama ⌂ Beco do Espírito Santo 1 ∑ parreirinhadealfama.com ¡¡¡ Tasca do Chico ⌂ R. do Diário de Notícias 39 ¡¡¡ |