Malaga and Cadiz Provinces
These two Andalucían provinces are a heady mix of cultural and recreational riches seldom equalled elsewhere in the world. Europe’s oldest city, Cádiz, is located here, but the presence of history is balanced by the hedonistic delights of the Costa del Sol and its fine beaches. Some of the region’s most dramatic landscapes lure nature-lovers, while others are drawn by the charms of the famed pueblos blancos (white villages), the most renowned being stupendous Ronda, birthplace of that strongest of Spanish traditions, the bullfight. This is also the area that produces the world-famous fortified wines known as sherry, as well as the celebrated sweet wines of Málaga. Finally, Europe’s southernmost point is located here, Tarifa, with views over to North Africa, and a stone’s throw away, the Rock of Gibraltar, an eccentric enclave of Britishness on the Mediterranean coast.
1. Cadiz
At the apex of the Atlantic’s untamed Costa de la Luz, this city floats like an ancient dream on what was originally its own island. With good claim to being Europe’s oldest city, it’s thought to have been founded by the ubiquitous Phoenicians in around 1104 BC. Much of what can be seen today, however, dates from the 18th century, the city having been almost completely razed by an Anglo-Dutch raid in 1596. The vast Catedral Nueva (1722) is one of Spain’s largest churches, and many Baroque edifices enhance this unpretentiously beautiful provincial capital and, apart from two weeks in February when it stages Spain’s most celebrated Carnaval bash, it remains very much under-visited (for further details see Cádiz).
2. Ronda
To many visitors over the centuries, this town evokes the “real” Andalucía, at its wild and spectacular best. This mountain rock eyrie is quite literally breathtaking, being dramatically sliced down the middle by El Tajo, a fantastically deep and narrow limestone ravine, formed over thousands of years by the Río Guadalevín. The town itself is essentially two in one – the ancient half being steeped in rich Moorish history, with lovely cobbled streets, while the more modern part on the north side of the gorge sees to contemporary everyday needs (for further details see Ronda).
3. Costa del Sol
Still living up to its well-earned reputation as one of the world centres for sun, surf and cheap, superficial fun, this string of former Mediterranean fishing villages nevertheless retains more than at first meets the eye. To those who care to look beyond the brash tourist enclaves, there is still much authentic charm on offer here – and even a good share of places that offer the chance of tranquil reflection – especially in the towns of Estepona, Nerja, Mijas and ultra-classy Marbella. Year-round golf makes the whole area a great attraction for international lovers of the sport and, in high season in particular, Torremolinos is the place to find some of Spain’s liveliest nightlife (for further details see Costa del Sol).
4. Malaga
Despite being home to the main airport bringing holiday-makers to the Costa del Sol, this provincial capital has been bypassed by the brunt of the “sun coast” development, and thus also by the swarms of foreign tourists. It has managed to hold onto its Spanish-ness quite admirably – despite
attempts to bring it up to speed with the buzzing Costa lifestyle. An important trading port since ancient times, it was the favourite city of poet Garcia Lorca, who loved it for its rawness. But its even greater claim to artistic fame is that it was the birthplace of Pablo Picasso, a fact that has now, at long last, been acknowledged by the presence of a Picasso museum, the third largest in the world dedicated to the modern master (for further details see Museo Picasso, Málaga). Málaga’s alcázar, built between the 8th and 11th centuries, includes a Roman amphitheatre.
Museo Picasso • C/San Agustín 8 • 952 12 76 00 • www.museopicassomalaga.org • Open Tue–Sun • Adm
5. Antequera
So ancient that even the Romans called it Antiquaria, this market town presents a wonderfully condensed architectural history of the entire area, beginning with Neolithic dolmens dating from between 4500 and 2500 BC. In addition, there are significant Roman ruins, including villas with outstanding mosaics, a Moorish Alcazaba (closed to the public), the 16th-century Arco de los Gigantes, and fine Renaissance palaces and churches to explore. Many treasures originally found in the town – including the exquisite Ephebe of Antequera, a rare, life-size Roman bronze of a young boy – are displayed in the Municipal Museum, housed in an 18th-century palace.Museo Municipal • Palacio Nájera, Plaza del Coso Viejo • 952 70 83 00 • Open Tue–Sun • Adm
6. Pueblos Blancos
The term “white villages” refers to the profusion of whitewashed hillside hamlets in the Serranía de Ronda, the mountainous territory around Ronda. Many of them are truly spectacular and it’s well worth spending several days driving from one to the other, and then striking out on foot to take in some of the views (for further details see Hike from Alájar to Linares de la Sierra). Towns not to miss include Grazalema, Zahara de la Sierra, Gaucín, Casares, Setenil, Jimena de Libár and Manilva. Villagers, who originally settled on these plains to protect themselves from potential bandits in the lowlands, have lived the same way of life for centuries, and retain a strong agricultural tradition. Between Grazalema and Zahara, you’ll go through Andalucía’s highest mountain pass, the breathtaking Puerto de las Palomas (The Pass of the Doves).
7. Gibraltar
This gargantuan chunk of limestone rising up from the Mediterranean was one of the mythic Pillars of Hercules. Yet, despite being nicknamed “The Rock”, as a worldwide symbol of stability and security, this fortress is actually a serious political football these days. Taken by the English in 1704 as part of the War of the Spanish Succession, today it is still very much a part of the British ethos, and only grudgingly do the Spaniards who live around it even acknowledge its existence. The Spanish government meanwhile most definitely wants it back. Legend has it that Britain will retain sovereignty of the rock as long as its most famous residents, the wild Barbary apes, remain, but their increasing number does not prevent on-going diplomatic arguments. Still, if you’re homesick for Englishness, cross over the frontier at La Línea to enjoy some fish and chips or a pint of ale.
8. Arcos de la Frontera
Another town built atop a sheer cliff, this is probably the most dazzling of the pueblos blancos and the one situated furthest west. As ancient as any town in the region, little remains of the period before the reconquista, when it received its “de la Frontera” appellation, meaning it was a bastion “on the frontier” between Christian and Moorish Spain. The Galería de Arte Arx-Arcis crafts museum and shop displays locally fashioned carpets, blankets, baskets and pottery.Galería de Arte Arx-Arcis • C/Marques de Torresoto 11 • 956 70 39 51 • Open 10:30am–2:30pm, 5–9:30pm Mon–Sat • Free
9. Jerez de la Frontera
The largest city in Cádiz province (for further details see A Morning Walk in Jerez de la Frontera) is synonymous with the production of “sherry”, which is simply a corruption of “Jerez” – itself a corruption of the original Phoenician name of Xeres (for further details see Brandy de Jerez). Before that, it was part of the fabled Tartessian civilization (8th century BC). Sights include an array of religious edifices, various palaces and a rather academic archaeological museum. However, flamenco and horses also get the credit for bringing the city international fame. It has a renowned centre for equestrian art, Andalucían style, and is home to one of the largest remaining gypsy populations, a determining force in flamenco tradition (for further details see Aspects of Gypsy Culture).
10. Costa de la Luz
This stretch of Atlantic coast, named after its characteristic bright light (luz) and covering the area from Chipiona to Tarifa, is still off the beaten path despite attempts to exploit its wild loveliness. Part of what protects it are the prevailing winds, wonderful for windsurfers but wretched for sunbathers, who may have to face wind-tossed sands travelling at fairly high speeds. Still, there are excellent beaches that can be enjoyed, often backed by cliffs, and modest resorts, such as Chipiona, mostly frequented by Spaniards.
Sherry, Brandy and Wine
The famed “Sherry Triangle” is comprised of the towns of Jerez, Sanlúcar de Barrameda and El Puerto de Santa María. The rich, nutty fortified wine has been produced here since ancient times, using vines imported by the Phoenicians some 3,000 years ago. In Roman times it was exported all over the empire, and it has been popular in England since the Elizabethan age. Sherry comes in a number of variants, to do with degrees of dryness or sweetness. The fino and manzanilla are dry and light, while the amontillado and oloroso are more robust. Brandy de Jerez is darker, richer and sweeter than brandy from France.
A Morning Walk in Jerez de la Frontera
Begin your tour at the impressive alcázar, with its many Moorish remains, including restored gardens, a mosque and a hammam (baths), as well as a camera obscura providing views of the city and beyond. Beside it is the stunningly decorated cathedral, extravagantly rich inside and out. Note the fine painting of The Sleeping Girl by Zurbarán in the sacristy.
Next take the tour – with tastings – of the González-Byass bodega, featuring possibly the oldest cellars in Jerez, with one designed by Gustave Eiffel. Don’t miss the many signatures of famous people on the barrels (called “butts”), including Queen Victoria, Cole Porter, Martin Luther King and General Franco, among others.
Continuing on north, the Pedro Domecq bodega also offers tours and is distinctively Moorish in style. A block further north, pop into the Museo Arqueológico to see the prized Greek bronze helmet from the 7th century BC, and then enter the Barrio de Santiago. This gently dilapidated neighbourhood of maze-like alleyways is home to a sizeable gypsy community and numerous flamenco venues.
To cap off your walk, continue southeast out of the barrio, past the Church of San Dionisio, to Reino de Leon Gastrobar on Calle Latorre, Jerez’s top-rated, wildly inventive tapas bar.
Costa del Sol Nightlife
1. Olivia Valere, Marbella
This club is the Costa hot spot of the moment. Designed by the same creative genius who did Paris’s famous Buddha Bar, it attracts the rich and beautiful like moths to the flame. Very exclusive and expensive.Crta de Istán, km0.8 • 952 82 88 61
2. Ocean Club, Marbella
This chic club features a swimming pool and a VIP area with huge round beds. Enjoy a cocktail or sip champagne in the lounge.Avda Lola Flores • 952 90 81 37
3. Suite, Marbella
This beachfront club has huge Buddhas, fire-eaters, belly dancers and jugglers. In the summer, the club becomes Suite del Mar and moves beachside, among palm trees.Puente Romano Hotel • Ctra de Cádiz km177
4. Kiu, Benalmadena
This is the largest of the discos on this busy square. The Atlantis room is the best area for banging club tunes.Plaza Sol y Mar • 652 27 33 22
5. Casino Torrequebrada, Benalmadena Costa
Located in the Hotel Torrequebrada, the casino has tables for blackjack, chemin de fer, punto y banco and roulette. The nightclub offers a flamenco show. Smart dress.Ctra de Cádiz • 952 57 73 00 • www.casinotorrequebrada.com
6. Puerto Marina, Benalmadena
This large complex has a variety of bars, nightclubs, shops and restaurants.Puerto Marina
7. Mango, Benalmadena
Popular with the younger crowds, this club has an electric atmosphere. Most of its bars have a small dance floor and throbbing music.Plaza Solymar
8. Sleek Nightclub, Marbella
The biggest dance club in the Puerto Banus marina has several areas, including a VIP penthouse and an alfresco dancefloor. Nights are hosted by DJs from all over Europe.Ctra de Cádiz, km 175 • 689 74 45 28
9. La Taberna de Pepe Lopez, Torremolinos
This flamenco venue is highly touristy, but fun. Shows take place here between 10pm and midnight.Plaza de la Gamba Alegre • 952 38 12 84 • Closed Sun
10. Gay Torremolinos
Torremolinos has the best gay nightlife in the Costa del Sol. Start at terrace bar El Gato (Paseo Maritimo del Pedregal 1), then head to Parthenon (Calle Nogalera) with its two dance floors. Heaven (Calle Casablanca 15) is the biggest gay club outside Madrid or Barcelona; Morbos, on Calle Nogalera, hosts live drag shows.
Costa del Sol Places to Eat
1. La Pappardella, Malaga
Enjoy true Napolitan cuisine at this family orientated eatery. A wide range of pasta, pizza and seafood is on offer.Muelle De Honor • 952 81 50 89 • €30–€40
2. Bar Altamirano, Marbella
Despite Marbella’s glitzy image there are several affordable and traditional tapas bars. This is one of them, just southeast of Plaza Naranjos; it even has its seafood specialities listed on ceramic menus.Plaza Altamirano 3 • 952 82 49 32 • Closed Wed, mid-Jan–mid-Feb • €20–€30
3. El Estrecho, Marbella
Another winning tapas bar and a local favourite. There’s a pleasant terrace, fish and seafood treats and nice fino. Try the Boqueron al Limon (anchovies in lemon).C/San Lázaro 12 • 952 77 00 04 • Closed first 2 weeks in Jun & Christmas • €20–€30
4. La Sirena, Benalmadena Costa
On the beachfront, and the paella is one of the best in the area.Paseo Maritimo • 952 56 02 39 • Dis. access • €30–€40
5. Bodegas Quitapenas, Torremolinos
An excellent seafood tapas bar amid all the fast-food joints. Spanish seafood, including pulpo (octopus).C/Cuesta del Tajo 3 • 952 38 62 44 • No credit cards • under €20
6. Restaurante La Escalera, Torremolinos
A great little choice with dreamy views from its terrace. The inventive international menu includes curry soup with green peas.C/Cuesta del Tajo 12 • 952 05 80 24 • Closed Sun • Dis. access • under €20
7. Tapeo de Cervantes, Malaga
This charming, rustic bodega serves up hearty regional food with some unique touches. Try the estofado de cordero (lamb stew with mint and couscous).C/Carcer 8 • 952 60 94 58 • Closed Mon • Dis. access • €20–€30
8. El Tintero II, Malaga
Another open-air restaurant on the beach. There’s no menu, so the waiter will tell you what’s on offer – all fish, of course.Ctra Almería 99, Playa Del Dedo • 952 20 68 26 • Dis. access • under €20
9. Restaurante 34, Nerja
This café has been cut into the cliff, so you have views of the sea while protected under palm frond umbrellas.Mirador del Bendito, Edif. Rocomar 2 • 952 52 54 44 • €20–€30
10. Lan Sang, Nerja
For a change of cuisine, try this Thai/Laotian restaurant. The modern, elegant decor is matched by the sophisticated flavours and beautiful presentation of the food.C/Malaga 12 • 952 52 80 53 • Closed Sun L, Mon • Dis. access • €30–€40
