Sennaya Ploshchad
One of St Petersburg’s oldest residential areas, Sennaya ploshchad was a hotbed of poverty, crime and filth in the 19th century. Dostoevsky found the subject matter for his novels in these very streets. An area of sharp contrasts, this part of the city is home to crumbling, century-old houses as well as some of the city’s most palatial residences. The tranquil area has much to offer, including the world-famous Mariinskiy Theatre and the stunning St Nicholas’ Cathedral. The streets here twist artfully around the Griboedov Canal, the Moyka and the Fontanka.
1. Mariinskiy Theatre
The dazzling Mariinskiy Theatre, also known as the Kirov, has witnessed performances by a number of Russia’s most illustrious ballet dancers over the years, including legends such as Nureyev and Nijinsky. Located in Theatre Square, a visit here is a must for any visitor to the city – it is a chance to experience a Russian occasion that remains essentially unchanged since the country’s pre-revolutionary days.
2. The Lion Bridge
The Lion Bridge, with its elegant, cast-iron lions that hold up the bridge’s supports, is a favourite place for couples of all ages to meet before heading off to walk along the atmospheric Griboedov Canal. Dating from the early 19th century, this bridge is a jewel in the heart of Sennaya ploshchad, and one of the city’s most recognized landmarks.
Lviniy most
3. Yusupov Palace
Purchased by the wealthy, aristocratic Yusupov family in 1830 to house their personal art collection, the yellow colonnaded Yusupov Palace was designed by Vallin de la Mothe in the 1860s. Its interior is notable for the exotic Moorish Room, with its Islamic-influenced mosaics, arches and fountains. The palace takes its place in history due to the murder of Rasputin, which took place here in the winter of 1916. The cellar houses an interesting exhibition dedicated to the infamous Rasputin.Nab. reki Moyki 94 • 314 9883 • Open 11am–5pm • Adm
4. St Nicholas’ Cathedral
Overlooking Kryukov Canal, St Nicholas’ Cathedral, with its striking sky-blue and white Baroque façade, appears somewhat out of place in the seedy and crumbling streets of Sennaya ploshchad. Completed in 1762, the cathedral was originally intended for sailors and employees of the nearby Admiralty, and was known for years by residents as the “Sailors’ Church”. It contains a collection of rare 18th-century icons.Nikolskaya ploshchad • 714 7085 • Open 6am–7:30pm
5. Rimsky-Korsakov Conservatory
This is Russia’s oldest music school, founded in 1862 by Anton Rubinstein. Notable graduates of the school include Tchaikovsky and Prokofiev. During the Soviet period, Dmitriy Shostakovich was its most famous pupil. Outside the conservatory is a statue of Mikhail Glinka, whose opera, A Life for the Tsar, was the first to be performed in Russia in 1836.Teatralnaya ploshchad 3 • 312 2519 • Performances at 7pm • Adm • www.conservatory.ru
6. The English Quay
This collection of buildings gets its name from the English merchants who settled here in the 1730s. They turned the area into a little slice of England and influenced, among other things, the development of football in the city. The mansion at No. 10 featured in Tolstoy’s novel War and Peace, and No. 28 was once the headquarters of the Socialist Revolutionary Party.Angliyskaya nab.
7. Railway Museum
The museum boasts items that will interest history buffs of all ages, including a fascinating and detailed look at luxury travel in the tsarist era. The museum was established in 1913, and has over 50,000 exhibits on display, dating from pre-revolutionary Russian carriages to present day engines.Sadovaya ulitsa 50 • 315 1476 • Open 11am–5pm Sun–Thu • Adm • www.cmzt.narod.ru
8. Sennaya Ploshchad
At the heart of the district to which it gives its name is one of the city’s oldest squares. Sennaya ploshchad has long had a reputation for poverty and crime. In the 18th century, it was home to the city’s cheapest and most picturesque street markets. Soviet authorities attempted to clean the area up, closing down the market and renaming the square “Ploshchad Mira” (“Peace Square”). Today, while not as dangerous, the square retains elements of its seedy past.
9. New Holland
This triangular island gets its name from the Dutch craftsmen who assisted Peter the Great in building the country’s first navy. Constructed in 1719 to store timber for the building of ships, the island is today inaccessible due to the start of a planned $12 billion urban renewal project that will see New Holland transformed into a cultural centre.Nab. reki Moyki
10. Choral Synagogue
Opened in 1893, this synagogue was the result of the Jewish community’s rebirth after years of repression during the reign of Nicholas I. Designed by Ivan Shaposhnikov in Moorish style, it is one of the largest in Europe – its cupola is almost 47 m (154 ft) high.Lermontovskiy prospekt 2 • 713 8186 • Open 9:30am–6pm
Rasputin
Rasputin was a Russian peasant mystic who, after “miraculously” curing Nicholas II’s son of haemophilia, came to exercise considerable, and not entirely benign, influence over the Russian court. On 17 December 1916, a group of nobles, fearful of the control he was exercising, attempted to murder him at Yusupov Palace. Poisoned, shot and clubbed, he eventually succumbed to death, his frozen body recovered from the Neva three days later.
A Stroll Before a Show
Afternoon
In order to attend an evening performance at the legendary Mariinskiy Theatre, begin your walk at 4pm. Starting at the bustling Sennaya ploshchad, head across the road from the exit to Sadovaya Metro station, and walk in the direction of the nab. Kanala Griboedova, turning right after the Avokado café. Turn right again and follow the canal away from the metro towards the 19th-century Lion Bridge, being sure to pay close attention to the magnificently sculpted lions. Take a right at the bridge into the narrow Prachechnyy pereulok, and follow the street to its very end, turning left at the Moyka. Ahead of you is the yellow façade of Yusupov Palace. Audio guides to the palace’s interior are available in English and many other languages. Don’t forget to check out the exhibition in the basement devoted to the infamous Rasputin.
Evening
After coming out of the Yusupov Palace, follow the Moyka down to Potseluev most (Bridge of Kisses) and take the first left. Ahead of you is St Nicholas’ Cathedral. After paying it a visit, retrace your steps back along ulitsa Glinki, named after the 19th-century Russian composer, Mikhail Glinka. It should now be time to take your seats at the Mariinskiy Theatre. After the performance has ended, relax over a filling meal at nearby Sadko restaurant.
