Palace Embankment
Unlike nearby Gostinyy Dvor, Palace Embankment contains very little in the way of shops and restaurants. Dominated instead by the symbols of Imperial, pre-revolutionary Russia, this is a particularly elegant area of the city. It showcases the splendour of the Winter Palace, the former residence of the tsars, which is housed in the stunning Hermitage, the colossal St Isaac’s Cathedral, as well as the embodiment of imperial strength that is the Bronze Horseman statue. A stroll here highlights the sheer weight of history contained in this city of just under five million people.
1. The Hermitage
The famous Hermitage, which consists of five separate buildings, is one of the world’s largest museums. Its enormous and breathtaking collection, containing works by Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Picasso and Rembrandt, is far too large to see in a single day. The New Hermitage is the only purpose-built museum within the complex.
2. The Admiralty
Immediately after founding St Petersburg, Peter the Great set about building a navy powerful enough to repel any attack on the city and expand Russia’s regional ambitions. The Admiralty, built between 1704–11, was originally the shipyard where Russia’s first battleships were produced. From 1806–23, the Admiralty was rebuilt by the architect Andrey Zakharov, who decorated its 407-m (1,335-ft) wide façade with potent symbols of Russia’s now-powerful fleet. Highlights of the building include the Neo-Classical gate tower and the gilded cupola with its 230-ft (70-m) high spire.
Admiralteyskaya nab. 2 • Closed to public
3. Palace Square
The city is famed for its wide open spaces, vast squares and never-ending embankments. The gigantic Palace Square perfectly encapsulates the sense of overwhelming expansivenesses one gets when walking the city’s streets. Entering the square for the first time is a sensory overload – the eyes are simply unable to process so much at once. Flanked by the Hermitage and the 19th-century General Staff Building, Palace Square has witnessed many historical events over the years, such as the massacre of “Bloody Sunday”. Before the Revolution, the square was the setting for military parades, often led by the tsar on horseback. It is still a favourite venue for political meetings and public events like rock concerts (for further details see Palace Square).
4. The Bronze Horseman
This magnificent statue, created by French architect, Etienne Falconet, was unveiled in 1782. Portraying Peter the Great astride a horse, the bronze sculpture was commissioned by Catherine the Great as a tribute to the founder of the city. A serpent, the symbol of betrayal, is crushed beneath the horse’s hooves. The statue was also the subject of an eponymous poem by Pushkin.
5. St Isaac’s Cathedral
St Isaac’s Cathedral, a captivating edifice silhouetted against the St Petersburg sky, stands at the edge of St Isaac’s Square. The church’s interior is lavishly decorated with marble and other semi-precious stones, and the upper sections of the exterior are adorned with masterfully sculpted figures of saints and angels.
6. St Isaac’s Square
St Isaac’s Square was used as a marketplace in the 19th century. It is surrounded by a great number of St Petersburg’s most famous buildings and monuments, including the striking St Isaac’s Cathedral, the Astoria Hotel and the Mariinskiy Palace, which houses the St Petersburg City Hall. Also at the square is Pyotr Klodt’s statue of Nicholas I, who took Russia into the Crimean War. The reliefs on the pedestal depict events from his 30-year reign. St Isaac’s Square features in Gogol’s famous short story, “The Overcoat”.Issakievskaya ploshchad
7. Field of Mars
This area, named after the Roman god of war, was used in the 19th century for military manoeuvres and parades. Like much of the city, it was reclaimed from swampland and extensively drained, earning it the nickname “Sahara of St Petersburg”. A popular spot with locals during spring, it contains the Eternal Flame monument (1957), dedicated to those who died during the 1917 Revolution, and the Monument to Revolutionary Fighters (1917–19), by Lev Rudnev.Marsovo Pole
8. Summer Garden
This garden was the pet project of Peter the Great, who spared no expense to create a botanical wonderland, complete with imported trees and plants. Peter’s Summer Garden was destroyed in a flood in 1777, and the English-style garden that exists today was commissioned by Catherine the Great. It features a bronze statue of Ivan Krylov, the Russian 19th-century writer of fables, sculpted by Pyotr Klodt in 1854. The biggest draw is the garden’s fountains, which represent scenes from Aesop’s Fables.Letniy sad • Open Oct–Apr 10am–8pm, May–Sep
9. Decembrist’s Square
This square was the site of an attempted coup by officers of the Russian army who, on 14 December 1825, attempted to seize power during the inauguration of Nicholas I. The rebel forces were quickly suppressed, but it would not be the last time that the new tsar would have to face a challenge to his throne. The square was originally named Senate Square, but was renamed in 1925 to commemorate the 100-year anniversary of the event.Ploshchad Dekabristov
10. Admiralty Gardens
In winter, the Admiralty Gardens are transformed into a winter wonderland, with mounds of snow filling the pretty ornamental fountain. In summer they are full of relaxing office workers, students and chess players. The gardens look directly onto the Admiralty, and are full of busts of famous Russian composers and writers, including the ubiquitous Gogol, and the 19th-century composer, Mikhail Glinka.Alexsandrovskiy sad
A Cancelled Celebration
The Astoria Hotel on St Isaac’s Square was where Hitler planned to hold a celebratory dinner after the fall of Leningrad. The dictator, so sure he would conquer the city, had already printed invitations and set a date – 9 August 1942. However, Nazi forces were repelled, and the event never took place. An original invitation is framed in the lobby of the Astoria.
A Day of Imperial Wonders
Morning
Turn off the even-numbered side of Nevskiy prospekt and walk down Bolshaya Morskaya ulitsa, sticking to the left, and an unforgettable view of the Hermitage and Palace Square will open up in front of you. Stroll through the vastness of the square, examining the colossal, freestanding Alexander Column as you do so. Before entering the Hermitage, wander over to the Atlantes and the Winter Canal. It is impossible to see everything the Hermitage has to offer in one visit, and so, take a break and have lunch at the museum café. If the weather is good, have a picnic in the nearby Summer Garden or Field of Mars.
Afternoon
After lunch, head away from the river, crossing Palace Square again on your way towards St Isaac’s Square. Pass through the Admiralty Gardens to look at busts of Russian composers and writers, and pay a visit to the Bronze Horseman, a local landmark. The gardens are a popular spot for taking wedding photographs. Turn away from the embankment, and head for St Isaac’s Square, where the statue of Nicholas I stands. Next, climb the many steps to the top of the massive St Isaac’s Cathedral for a breathtaking view of the city. Later, walk back across St Isaac’s Square to Idiot for a relaxing meal.
