Beyond Barcelona
Steeped in tradition, with its own language and an enormous sense of pride in its separate identity, Catalonia is immensely rich in both cultural heritage and physical geography. It is no exaggeration to say that Catalonia really does have everything. To the north are the 3,000-m (9840-ft) peaks of the Pyrenees. The coastline is dotted with hundreds of beautiful sandy beaches and intimate rocky coves with crystal-clear waters. These staggering natural treasures are complemented by a wealth of fabulous churches and monasteries, many set in stunning, isolated mountain scenery. For the gourmet, the regional cuisine is particularly rewarding, while the locally produced cava easily holds its own against its French champagne counterparts.
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NOTE
Montserrat
The dramatic mount of Montserrat, with its remote Benedictine monastery (dating from 1025), is a religious symbol and a place of pilgrimage for the Catalan people. The Basilica houses a statue of Catalonia’s patron virgin, La Moreneta, also know as the “Black Virgin”. Some legends date the statue to AD 50, but research suggests it was carved in the 12th century. The monastery itself was largely destroyed in 1811 during the War of Independence, and rebuilt some 30 years later. Montserrat forms part of a ridge of mountains that rise suddenly from the plains. Take the funicular to the mountain’s unspoilt peaks, where paths run alongside spectacular gorges to numerous hermitages.
Tourist Info
Pl de la Creu
93 877 77 77
Basilica, Monestir de Montserrat
Teatre-Museu Dalí, Figueres
Salvador Dalí was born in the town of Figueres in 1904. Paying tribute to the artist is the fantastic Teatre-Museu Dalí, which is full of his eccentric works. Housed in a former theatre, the country’s second-most-visited museum (after the Prado in Madrid) provides a unique insight into the artist’s extraordinary creations, from La Cesta de Pan (1926) to El Torero Alucinogeno (1970). Thirty minutes’ drive away, near the beach town of Cadaqués, the Dalí connection continues. Here you can visit the Casa-Museu Salvador Dalí, the artist’s summer house for nearly 60 years until his death in 1989.
Pl Gala-Salvador Dalí, Figueres
972 67 75 00
Open Mar–Jun, Oct 9:30am–6pm Tue–Sun (daily in Jun); Jul–Sep 9am–8pm daily; Nov–Feb 10:30am–6pm Tue–Sun
Adm
Casa-Museu Salvador Dalí
Port Lligat
972 25 10 15
Closed early Jan to mid-Mar
Guided visits only, Tue–Sun (15 Jun–15 Sep daily) by reservation
Adm
Teatre-Museu Dalí
Vall de Núria
This enchanting Pyrenean hideaway, surrounded by crests reaching as high as 3,000-m (9,840-ft), is a ski resort in winter and a green, peaceful oasis attracting hikers and nature-lovers in summer. The mountain resort centres on a religious sanctuary and has a youth hostel and apartments for rent. The valley is only accessible via a silent cog railway, which trundles above the clouds through breathtaking mountain scenery.
Tourist Info
Railway Station, Vall de Núria
97 273 20 20
Rack railway train from Ribes de Freser, 10 km N Ripoll
Alt Penedès
Catalonia’s most famous wine region is the cava-producing area of the Penedès. The cava brands of Cordoníu and Freixenet have become household names worldwide. Many of the area’s wineries and bodegas are open to the public. One of the most spectacular is the Cordoníu bodega, housed in a Modernista building designed by Puig i Cadafalch, with a phenomenal 26 km (16 miles) of cellars on five floors.
Tourist Info
C/Cort 14, Vilafranca del Penedès
93 818 12 54
The tourist office has details on all winery visits in the region, including the Cordoníu winery
Begur & Around
The elegant hilltop town of Begur, with its ruined 14th-century castle, looks down on the nature reserve of Aiguamolla and some of the prettiest coves on the Costa Brava. The town’s population quadruples in summer as visitors make this their base for exploring nearby beaches and small, isolated coves. Many of the area’s beaches stage jazz concerts throughout the summer. This is perhaps the best stretch of coastline in Catalonia.
Tourist Info
Av Onze de Setembre 5
972 62 45 20
Tarragona
Entering the city of Tarragona, past the oil refineries and its huge industrial port, it’s hard to envisage the astounding archaeological treasures that await. Once the capital of Roman Catalonia, the city’s main attractions today are from this era. Highlights include an impressive amphitheatre and the well-kept Roman walls that lead past the Museu Nacional Arqueològic and the Torre de Pilatos, a tower where Christians were supposedly imprisoned before being thrown to the lions. Also in Tarragona is the Catedral de Santa Tecla.
Tourist Info
C/Fortuny 4
977 23 34 15
Girona
Said to have the highest living standards in Catalonia, Girona is a pleasant town surrounded by lush green hills. Hidden away in the old town, the atmospheric Jewish quarter (known as El Call) is one of the best-preserved medieval enclaves in Europe. Girona’s cathedral is a must (see Catedral de Santa Maria).
Tourist Info
Rambla de la Llibertat 1
972 22 65 75
Riu Onyar, Girona
Empúries
After Tarragona, Empúries is Catalonia’s second most important Roman site. Occupying an impressive position by the sea, it includes more than 40 hectares (99 acres) scattered with Greek and Roman ruins, the highlights of which are the remains of a market street, various temples and part of a Roman amphitheatre. Coupled with lovely nearby beaches, it’s an ideal spot for those looking to mix a bit of history with a dip in the sea.
Empúries
972 77 02 08
Open Jun–Sep: 10am–8pm daily; Oct–May: 10am–6pm daily
Adm
Port Aventura
Universal Studios’ theme park is divided up into five areas: China, Far West, Mediterranean, Polynesia and Mexico, each offering rides and attractions. Thrill-junkies will appreciate one of Europe’s biggest roller coasters, Dragon Kahn (China). There are also shows, and the entire experience is like being on a film set.
Av Pere Molas, Vilaseca, Tarragona
902 20 22 20
Open mid-Mar–Oct daily, call for seasonal hours
Adm
DA
Costa Daurada & Sitges
With its wide sandy beaches and shallow waters, the Costa Daurada differs from the northern Catalonian coastline. The sleepy town of Torredembarra is a pleasant and rarely busy family resort, but the jewel in the crown is undoubtedly Sitges. It’s the summer home to Barcelona’s chic crowd, as well as being a popular gay resort (see Gay & Lesbian Hang-outs). All this gives it a cosmopolitan, frenetic feel, but the town never reaches the tacky excesses of some of the Costa Brava’s resorts.
Tourist Info
C/Sínia Morera
938 10 93 40
Waterfront, Sitges
A Scenic Drive
Morning
From Barcelona take the AP7 motorway until exit 4, then take the C260 to Cadaqués. The journey should take about two and a half hours in all. Just before dropping down to the town, stop at the viewpoint and take in the azure coastline and the whitewashed houses of this former fishing village. Once in Cadaqués, now one of Catalonia’s trendiest beach towns, wander the quaint boutique-filled streets. After a splash in the sea and a coffee on one of the chic terrace cafés, take the road leaving Port Lligat and head for the Cap de Creus lighthouse. Drive through the desolately beautiful landscape of this rocky headland before doubling back and heading off to Port de la Selva. The road twists and winds interminably, but the picture-perfect scenery will leave you speechless.
Afternoon
Stop in the tiny, mountain-enclosed Port de la Selva for an excellent seafood lunch at the Cala Herminda. Then drive to the neighbouring village of Selva del Mar with its tiny river and have a post-prandial coffee on the terrace of the Bar Stop before continuing up to the Monestir Sant Pere de Rodes . You’ll be tempted to stop several times on the way up to take in the views. Don’t, because the best is to be had from the monastery, which offers an incredible sweeping vista of the whole area. There are plenty of well-signposted walks around the mountain top here and it is worth staying put to see the sun set slowly over the bay.
Churches & Monasteries
Monestir de Montserrat
Catalonia’s holiest place is the region’s most visited monastery. It boasts some Romanesque art and a statue of the “Black Virgin” (see Montserrat).
Montserrat
93 877 77 77
Adm
DA to Basilica
Monestir de Poblet
This busy, working monastery contains the Gothic Capella de Sant Jordi, a Romanesque church, and the Porta Daurada, a doorway that was gilded for Felipe II’s visit in 1564.
off N240, 10 km W of Montblanc
97 787 02 54
Adm
Monestir de Ripoll
The west portal of this monastery (879) has reputedly the finest Romanesque carvings in Spain. Of the original buildings, only the doorway and cloister remain.
Ripoll
972 70 23 51
Adm
Monestir de Santes Creus
The cloister at this Gothic treasure (1150) is notable for the beautifully sculpted capitals by English artist Reinard Funoll.
Santes Creus, 25 km NW of Montblanc
977 63 83 29
Closed Mon
Adm
Tue free
Monestir de Sant Pere de Rodes
The dilapidated charm of this UNESCO World Heritage Site may have dwindled since its face-lift, but nothing detracts from the views it offers over Cap de Creus and Port de la Selva.
22 km E of Figueres
972 38 75 59
Closed Mon
Adm
Sant Climent i Santa Maria de Taüll
These two churches are perfect examples of the Romanesque churches that pepper the Pyrenees. Dating from 1123, most of the original frescoes are now in the MNAC in Barcelona.
138 km N of Lleida
973 69 40 00
Catedral de La Seu d’Urgell
Dating from around 1040, this cathedral is one of the most elegant in Catalonia.
La Seu d’Urgell
973 35 32 42
Adm
DA
Catedral de Santa Maria
This cathedral is remarkable for possessing the widest Gothic nave anywhere in Europe and the second widest of any type after the Basilica in the Vatican.
Old Town, Girona
972 21 58 14
Adm
Sun free
Catedral de Santa Tecla
At 104-m (340-ft) long, Tarragona’s cathedral is the largest in the region. Its architecture is a mixture of Gothic and Romanesque, and it is crowned by a huge octagonal bell tower.
Old Town, Tarragona
977 23 86 85
Closed Sun except for 11am mass
Adm
Sant Joan de les Abadesses
This pretty French Romanesque-style monastery in the Pyrenees harbours a prestigious collection of Romanesque sculpture.
Sant Joan de les Abadesses
972 72 05 99
Adm
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National Parks & Nature Reserves
Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici
The magnificent peaks of Catalonia’s only national park are accessible from the resort of Espot. You’ll find ponds and lakes 2,000 m (6,560 ft) up.
148 km N of Lleida
Delta de l’Ebre
This giant delta is a patch-work of paddy fields. The wide expanse of the River Ebre is a nature reserve for migratory birds and has scores of bird-watching stations.
28 km SE of Tortosa
Parc Natural de la Zona Volcànica de la Garrotxa
It is 10,000 years since La Garrotxa last erupted and the volcanoes are long since extinct. The largest crater is the Santa Margalida, at 500 m (1,640 ft) wide. It is magical here in spring when thousands of butterflies emerge.
40 km NW of Girona
Cap de Creus
As the Pyrenees tumble into the Mediterranean, they create a rocky headland, which juts out 10 km (6.25 miles). It forms Catalonia’s most easterly point and offers spectacular views of the craggy coastline.
36 km E of Figueres
Parc Natural del Cadí-Moixeró
Covered in a carpet of conifers and oaks, this mountain range has surprisingly lush vegetation. Several peaks are over 2,000 m (6,560 ft) high.
20 km E of La Seu d’Urgell
Parc Natural del Montseny
Forming Catalonia’s most accessible natural park, these woodland hills are well-equipped for walkers and mountain bikers, with a huge network of trails. Climb the well-signposted and popular Turó de l’Home, which is the highest peak.
48 km NW of Barcelona
Massis de Pedraforca
A nature reserve surrounds this huge outcrop of mountains, a favourite of rock climbers with peaks rising to 2,500 m (8,200 ft).
64 km N of Manresa
Serra de l’Albera
On the eastern part of the border between Spain and France, the tree-covered slopes of Albera are speckled with interesting ruins.
15 km N of Figueres
Parc Natural dels Aiguamolls de l’Empordà
This nature reserve hides birdwatching towers. Those in the Laguna de Vilalt and La Bassa de Gall Mari allow bird-lovers to observe herons, moorhens and other bird species nesting in spring.
15 km E of Figueres
Parc Natural de Sant Llorenç del Munt
Surrounded by industry and within easy reach of Barcelona, this is a surprisingly untamed park inhabited by large numbers of wild boar. Walk up Cerro de la Mola to see the Romanesque monastery.
12 km E of Manresa
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Outdoor Activities
Rafting & Kayaking
One of Europe’s best rivers for white-water sports is La Noguera Pallaresa in the Pyrenees. Late spring is the best time to go, as the mountain snow thaws.
Yeti Emotions
Llavorsí, 14 km N of Sort
973 62 22 01
Scuba Diving
The beautiful Reserva Natural de les Illes Medes, with its thousands of species and coral reefs, is a haven for divers. Glass-bottomed boats cater to non-divers.
López Bender, Port Alegre 1, Ampuriabrava
972 45 02 41
Watersports & Sailing
Good sailing can be found in Sitges, along with yachts for rent, classes for the novice, canoeing and windsurfing.
Club de Mar Sitges, Pg Marítim, Sitges
93 894 09 05
Skiing
La Molina is the most accessible Pyrenean ski-resort from Barcelona, but Baqueira-Beret is where the jet-set goes. Both offer all levels of skiing (including off-piste) from December.
La Molina
25 km S of Puigcerdà
972 89 20 31
Baqueira-Beret
14 km E of Vielha
902 41 54 15
(snow reports: 973 63 90 25
Golf
The Costa Brava is one of Europe’s top golf destinations; the best courses are around Platja d’Aro.
Santa Cristina d’Aro
972 83 70 55
Platja d’Aro
972 81 67 27
Horse Riding
Montseny National Park (see Parc Natural del Montseny) is ideal for horse riding, with a number of centres.
Can Marc, 6 km W of Sant Celoni
938 48 27 13
Ballooning
A balloon journey over the volcanic area of Osona is an unbeatable way to get a bird’s-eye view of Catalonia.
Baló Tour, Vic
93 414 47 74
Boat trips
Take a picturesque cruise from Calella and Blanes to Tossa de Mar, stopping at the old town and the castle of Tossa de Mar.
Dofi Jet Boats, Blanes
972 35 20 21
boats every hour daily from Blanes (twice daily from Calella)
Closed Nov–Feb
Foraging for Mushrooms
From late September to late October, thousands of Catalans flock to the hills in search of the highly prized rovelló. There are also poisonous varieties, so amateurs should get a guide through the Diputació de Barcelona.
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Places to Eat
El Bulli
A once-in-a-lifetime experience. Extraordinary creations by the three-Michelin-star chef Ferran Adria such as wild mushrooms in test tubes. Book months in advance (via their website).
Cala de Montjoi, Roses
972 150 457
Closed Oct–Mar
El Racó de Can Fabes
Celebrated chef Santi Santamaria prepares sublime traditional French-Catalan food at this three-Michelin-star country-house restaurant.
Sant Joan 6, Sant Celoni, Montseny
93 867 28 51
Closed Sun eve & Mon
La Torre del Remei
A Modernista palace provides an elegant setting for wonderfully presented Catalan food. The game dishes are sublime.
Camí Reial, Bolvir, Cerdanya
3 km SW of Puigcerdà
972 14 01 82
DA
El Mirador de les Caves
This restaurant is set in a castle overlooking Catalonia’s wine country. Traditional cuisine is complemented by bottles of local wine and cava.
Els Casots, 4 km S of Sant Sadurní d’Anoia
93 899 31 78
Closed Sun eve & Mon eve
Fonda Europa
Established over 150 years ago, Fonda Europa was the first in a line of successful Catalan restaurants. Ample portions include pig’s trotters.
Anselm Clavé 1, Granollers
93 870 0312
DA
Restaurant Sangiovese
Exceptional Catalan cuisine prepared with the freshest local produce in a sleek, designer setting. The best reason to visit Mataró.
C/Sant Josep 31, Mataró
937 41 02 67
Carme Ruscalleda Sant Pau
Carme Ruscalleda is considered to be one of the finest chefs in Spain. For an unforgettable dining experience, head to the pretty, seaside village of Sant Pol de Mar, where her restaurant offers sublime Catalan cuisine.
C/Nou 10, Sant Pol de Mar
93 760 06 62
Closed Sun, Mon, Thu lunch
El Celler de Can Roca
The Roca brothers provide exciting, contemporary Catalan cuisine that is complemented by an exceptional wine list.
C/Can Sunyer 48, Girona
972 22 21 57
Cal Ton
A comfortable restaurant in the heart of Catalonia’s biggest wine region, this serves fresh, contemporary cuisine. The menu degustació is recommended. Excellent wine list.
C/Casal 8, Vila-franca del Penedès
938 90 37 41
NOTE
Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards. For more on dining and standard opening hours see Eating & Drinking Tips