Tian’an Men Square and the Forbidden City
The geographical, spiritual, and historical heart of Beijing, Tian’an Men Square and the Forbidden City together represent a yin and yang arrangement; one is a mind-bogglingly vast, empty, rectangular public space, the other is an even more massive, rectangular walled private enclosure. One represents modern China, complete with its Socialist monuments, refrigerated Great Leader and resonances of recent political upheaval, while the other is a silent repository of ancient imperial glories. There is enough to see around the square and in the Forbidden City to make it worth setting aside a whole day for each. One day will present a vivid impression of China as it was, and the other an equally striking portrait of the country as it is now. And after all that, wander around the corner for a look at the new National Grand Theater and a glimpse of the China of the future.
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NOTE
Tian’an Men Square
Although now thoroughly synonymous with Beijing, until relatively recently there was no Tian’an Men Square. For centuries this was just a main thoroughfare leading to the Gate of Heavenly Peace (Tian’an Men) and the approach to the Forbidden City. The area was cleared in the first half of the 20th century, then quadrupled in size in 1959, supposedly allowing for up to one million people to gather. Many of the buildings flanking the square were erected at this time (see Tian’an Men Square).
Tian’an Men Square
Tian’an Men traffic policeman
China National Museum
This imposing building houses both the Museum of Chinese History and the Museum of the Revolution. Of the two, the former is by far the more interesting, with an unsurpassed collection of great works of Chinese art; the halls here are also used for temporary exhibitions. The Museum of the Revolution contains models, documents, and photographs connected with the history of the Chinese Communist Party – for political enthusiasts only. The China National Museum is closed for refurbishment until 2010.
East side of Tian’an Men Square
6512 8901
Subway: Tian’an Men East
Closed until 2010
Great Hall of the People
This the Chinese parliament building, home of the nation’s legislative body, the National People’s Congress. Regular tours visit the banquet room where US President Nixon dined in 1972 and the 10,000-seat auditorium with its ceiling inset with a massive red star. The building is closed to the public when the Congress is in session.
West side of Tian’an Men Square
6605 6847
Subway: Tian’an Men West
Opening hours vary
¥30
Great Hall of the People
National Grand Theater
Completed in 2006, Beijing’s new opera house is already a major city landmark. Designed by French architect Paul Andreu, it is built of glass and titanium and takes the form of a giant parabolic dome – earning it the nickname “The Egg.” The high-tech lighting that illuminates the exterior is reflected in a moat, while the entrance is through an underwater tunnel.
2 West Chang An Jie
6655 0000
Subway: Tian’an Men West
National Grand Theater
Imperial City Museum
Much of the Imperial City of Beijing was destroyed under the Communists. A model in the museum illustrates the extent of what has been lost, including the wall that once encircled the city, the gates, and a great many temples. There are also exhibits on the hutongs, plus collections of armor, weapons, and ceramics.
9 Changpu Heyan
8511 5104
Subway: Tian’an Men East
Open 10am–5:30pm Tue–Sun
¥20
Audio tour ¥50
Forbidden City
The Forbidden City is Beijing’s top “must-see” sight. A seemingly endless collection of pavilions, gates, courts, and gardens, the complex encompasses five centuries of colorful, occasionally lurid, imperial history. Trying to see everything in one go will bring on a severe case of Ming fatigue, and it is recommended that you tackle the palace over at least two visits (see Forbidden City).
Forbidden City
Jing Shan Park
Jing Shan (Coal Hill) lies immediately north of the Forbidden City. The hill was created from the earth that was excavated while building the moat around the palace complex during the reign of the Ming Yongle emperor. The hill’s purpose was to protect the emperor and his court from malign northern influences, which brought death and destruction according to classical feng shui. The park is dotted with pavilions and halls, but the highlight is the superb view south from the hill-top Wancheng Pavilion.
1 Wenjin Jie
6404 4071
Bus: 5, 111, 124, 810
Open 6am–9pm daily
¥2
Wangfujing Dajie
Beijing’s main shopping street is filled with department stores and giant malls (see Shops, Malls, and Markets), as well as stores selling silk, tea, and shoes. Another highlight is the Night Market, with its range of open-air food stalls (see Wangfujing Night Market). A little to the north is St. Joseph’s, one of the city’s most important churches (see St. Joseph’s Church).
Subway: Wangfujing
Night Market
Open 5:30pm–10pm daily
Wangfujing street sculptures
Wangfujing Dajie shopping street
National Art Museum of China
The largest art gallery in China was one of ten key buildings erected in 1959 to celebrate the tenth anniversary of the founding of the People’s Republic. It has no permanent collection but its 14 halls, spread over three floors, host a constant rotation of temporary exhibitions of Chinese and international art.
1 Wusi Dajie
8403 3500
Subway: Dong Si
Open 9am–5pm daily; last entry 4pm
¥20; audio guides ¥10 (plus ¥100 deposit)
National Art Museum of China
Zhong Shan Park
Northwest of the Tian’an Men, Zong Shan (also known as Sun Yat Sen Park) offers respite from the crowds thronging the nearby sights. The park was once part of the grounds of a temple and the square Altar of Earth and Harvests remains. In the eastern section is the Forbidden City Concert Hall, Beijing’s premier venue for classical music.
6605 2528
Subway: Tian’an Men West
Open 6am–9pm daily
¥3
A Day Around Tian’an Men Square and Wangfujing Dajie
Morning
Arrive early to beat the crowds at Mao’s Mausoleum and shuffle through for the permitted few minutes in the presence of the Great Helmsman. The Forbidden City can be saved for another day, but climb the Tian’an Men for the views from the gallery. From the gate walk east along the Imperial City wall soon arriving at an entrance overlooked by most visitors: this leads to the Imperial Ancestral Temple, once one of the city’s most important places of worship. Carry on east; after the junction with Nan Chizi cutting back inside the wall to walk through pleasant Changpu He Park. One (long) block beyond the park is Wangfujing Dajie and the Oriental Plaza mall, with a superb food court in the basement.
Afternoon
Wander up Wangfujing Dajie, making sure to look in the chopstick and tea shops. At No. 74 is the attractive St. Joseph’s Church, which is well worth a look. Immediately before the church is a crossroads: head away from the church along Deng Shi Kou Jie looking for signs for Fengfu Hutong on your right. Here is the Former Residence of Writer Lao She, offering a glimpse into a way of life fast disappearing in Beijing. Retrace your steps down Wangfujing to Dong’an Men Dajie where the famous Night Market should by now be set up.
Shops, Malls, and Markets
APM
This shopping mall full of mid-range clothes shops also has a multiscreen cinema and lots of restaurants up on the top floor.
138 Wangfujing Dajie
Beijing Arts & Crafts Central Store
A vast, multi-story emporium of all kinds of Chinese handicrafts, from cloisonné vases and jade, to wood-carvings, lacquer ware, and silks.
200 Wangfujing Dajie
Mao’s Mausoleum
The mausoleum gift shop is the best source of Mao badges, posters, and shoulder bags.
Tian’an Men Square
Subway: Qian Men
Open 8:30–11:30am Mon–Sat, 2–4pm Mon, Wed & Fri
Hong Cao Wan’r
An upmarket ladies’ clothing boutique , Hong Cao Wan’r specializes in designer oriental items in natural fabrics.
28 Wangfujing Dajie
Subway: Dengshikou
Intime Lotte
This new high-end mall sells many Korean brands, which is not surprising, since it is jointly owned by the Korean department giant Lotte and the Chinese Intime group. Cultural events and exhibitions are also held here.
88 Wangfujing Dajie
Jun Yi Home
Chinese military surplus store with badges, patches, and even uniforms.
383 Dong Si Bei Dajie
Subway: Dong Si
Hao Yuan Market
Small street market just off Wangfujing, which is crammed with stalls selling all kinds of knick-knacks, handicrafts, and curios.
Off Wangfujing Dajie
NOTE
Most shops, markets, and malls tend to be open approximately 9am–9pm daily. For more details see shopping tips
Restaurants
Oriental Plaza Food Court
The basement of this upscale shopping mall has a Southeast Asian-style food court offering everything from Chinese street foods to sushi.
Corner of Dong Chang’an Jie and Wangfujing Dajie
Quanjude
Beijing’s most famous duck restaurant has several branches but this is the most convenient, just a few steps off southern Wangfujing.
9 Shuai Fu Yuan Hutong, Wangfujing Dajie
6525 3310
Closes at 9pm
Huang Ting
Enjoy Cantonese cuisine amid splendid antique furniture in the basement of a five-star hotel (see Huang Ting).
Peninsula Palace Hotel, 8 Jinyu Hutong
8516 2888 ext. 6707
Made In China
Classy venture with stunning design and even better food (see Made In China).
Grand Hyatt, 1 Dong Chang’an Jie
6510 9608
My Humble House
High-concept fusion food is served in a beautiful conservatory-like setting next door to the Grand Hyatt.
W3 West Tower, Oriental Plaza, 1 Dong Chang’an Jie
8518 8811
Princess Mansion
Refined imperial court cuisine in a mansion that once belonged to the Empress Cixi. Excellent food comes with theatrical frills.
9 Daqudeng Hutong, off Meishuguan Hou Dajie
6407 8006
Shi
Imperial cuisine in a contemporary setting.
The Emperor Hotel, 33 Qihelou Jie
6526 5566
Open 11am–midnight daily
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