Eastern Beijing

East of central Beijing, in a corridor between the Second and Third Ring Roads, is the district of Chaoyang. It’s not an area that is particularly old and it doesn’t have very many significant monuments, but it is home to two main clusters of international embassies, and it is where a large proportion of the city’s foreign expatriate community chooses to live. As a result, Chaoyang is the city’s entertainment and nightlife center, and, for the visitor, it is the prime area for eating and shopping.

Altared city

Ri Tan Park’s Altar of the Sun is one of eight such cosmologically aligned structures, along with the Altar of Heaven (Tian Tan; see Temple of Heaven (Tiantam)), the Altar of Agriculture (Xiannong Tan; now part of the Ancient Architecture Museum), the Altar of the Moon in the west of the city, the Altar of the Earth (Di Tan, see Di Tan Park), the Altar of the Country in Zhong Shan Park, the Altar of the Silkworm in Bei Hai Park, and the lost Altar of the Gods of Heaven.


Distances in eastern Beijing are considerable and it may be preferable to take taxis between some of the sights


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NOTE

For more modern architecture in eastern Beijing see The Olympics Legacy

Top 10 Sights
  1. Ancient Observatory

    Dating to 1442, Beijing’s observatory is one of the oldest in the world. In fact, there was an even earlier Yuan-dynasty (1279–1368) observatory also located on this site but no trace of that remains. Today, a collection of reproduction astronomical devices lies in the courtyard, some decorated with fantastic Chinese designs. There are more impressive instruments on the roof.

    Ancient Observatory
    • 6524 2202

    • Subway: Jianguo Men

    • Open 9am–4pm daily

    • ¥10

  2. Southeast Corner Watchtower

    A short distance south of the Second Ring Road an imposing chunk of the old Beijing city wall survives, including an imposing 15th-century watch-tower. Visitors can climb onto the battlements and walk along a short stretch of wall. The tower is also home to the commercial Red Gate Gallery.

    Southeast Corner Watchtower
    • South of Jianguo Men Nei Dajie

    • 6527 0574

    • Subway: Jianguo Men

    • Open 8am–5:30pm daily

    • ¥10

  3. Ri Tan Park

    One of the city’s oldest parks, Ri Tan was laid out around a sacrificial altar back in the 16th century. The round altar remains, ringed by a circular wall, but this is very much a living park, filled daily with people walking and exercising. Being at the heart of the embassy district, the park is well tended and surrounded by lots of good restaurants and cafés.

    Ri Tan Park
    • Guanghua Lu

    • 8561 4261

    • Subway: Jianguo Men

    • Open 6:30am–9:30pm daily

  4. Central Business District (CBD)

    The Central Business District is Beijing’s business hub, housing more than 60 percent of the city’s foreign-funded companies. Marked by the CCTV Tower in the northwest and by the Twin Towers of the China World Trade Center in the southeast, the area is also home to about half of the city’s luxury hotels and two of its glitziest shopping malls, China World and Shin Kong Plaza (see China World Shopping Mall and Shin Kong Plaza).

    • Subway: Guomao or Dawanglu

  5. Dong Yue Miao

    This colorful and active temple, dating to the early 14th century, was restored in 1999 and is tended by Daoist monks. The main courtyard leads into the Hall of Tai Shan with statues of gods and their attendants. Tai Shan is another name for Dong Yue, in Daoist lore the Eastern peak to which the spirits of the dead travel.

    Dong Yue Miao
    • 141 Chaoyang Men Wai Dajie

    • 6551 0151

    • Subway: Chaoyang Men

    • Open 8:30am–4:30pm Tue–Sun

    • ¥10

  6. Blue Zoo Beijing

    Not a zoo at all, but an excellent modern aquarium, reckoned to be the best of its kind in Asia. The main attraction is a central tank holding literally thousands of fish, plus there are also 18 additional tanks with specifically themed displays (see Blue Zoo Beijing).

    • South gate of Workers’ Stadium

    • 6591 3397 ext. 1560

    • Subway: Chaoyang Men

    • Open 8:30am–7:30pm daily

    • ¥75; children ¥50; under 3 ft (1 m) free

    • www.blue-zoo.com

  7. Workers’ Stadium

    With an estimated capacity of 72,000, the stadium is home to Beijing’s premier football club, Hyundai Guo’an, and it is the city’s main venue for large-scale rock and pop concerts. Perplexingly, it’s also a hub of Beijing nightlife, with numerous clubs and bars clustered around its north and west gates, and some very good restaurants too (see Restaurants). Even oldies get in on the act, with mass open-air dancing taking place on the forecourt of the north gate most summer evenings.

    Crowds at the Workers’ Stadium

    Entrance gate at the Workers’ Stadium
    • Gongren Tiyuchang Bei Lu

    • 6501 6655

    • Subway: Dong Si Shi Tiao

  8. Sanlitun

    Beijing’s main expat-friendly boozing district, Sanlitun is famed for its “Bar Street”, more properly known as Sanlitun Bei Lu. It also has a high concentration of international restaurants (see Restaurants) and lots of boutique shopping (see Shops, Markets, and Malls). Streets around here, although modern, are at least tree-lined and, with plenty of cafés for refreshment stops, it’s a pleasant district in which to wander.

    Sanlitun bar
    • Subway: Tuanjiehu

  9. Ghost Street

    Gui Jie, or Ghost Street, is a mile-and-a-quarter (2-km) stretch of Dong Zhi Men Nei Dajie that come nightfall is jammed with cars double-parked outside its one hundred or so restaurants, many of which open 24 hours. The roadside is festively lit with strings of red lanterns bobbing in the breeze, while most establishments favor corny, old-China décor with lots of red lacquer and pagoda motifs, and waitresses in silk tunics. This is the home of hotpot, although all regional Chinese cuisines are represented here.

    • Subway: Beixingqiao

  10. Lufthansa Center

    This glossy mall-style development caters for aspirational Beijingers with a department store full of imported luxury goods, a basement Continental deli, and a BMW showroom. More down to earth, just west on the south bank of the river is the Liang Ma Flower Market, which is a riot of color and fragrances.

    • 50 Liang Ma Qiao Lu

    • 6465 1188

    • Subway: Liangmaqiao

    • Open 9am–10pm daily

A Walk From Ri Tan Park to Sanlitun

Morning

The American-style diner Steak and Eggs (5 Xiushui Jie), which is behind the Friendship Store, opens for pancake-platter breakfasts at 7:30am. Well fed, head north up embassy-lined Jianhua Lu to enter Ri Tan Park via the south gate. This is one of the city’s best parks, with an old sacrificial altar, a rockery, and a small lake with the waterside Stone Boat café. Exit via the west gate onto Ritan Lu, then head south, toward Guanghua Lu, which is lined with shops. Stop at French deli Fauchon (see Fauchon) to stock up on delicious chocolates and wines, or head to one of the many stores in this area. Continue on to busy Chaoyang Men Wai Dajie, lined with malls and the Dong Yue Miao temple.

Afternoon

Departing the temple, turn left and then take the second left into Gongren Lu. This takes you up to a park with a lake and then the Workers’ Stadium. Circle the stadium to exit via the north gate onto Gongren Tiyuchang Bei Lu. Head east until you come to a foot bridge, which allows you to cross this eight-lane boulevard safely. It deposits you in front of Yashaw Market for more bargain shopping. To the east, The Village offers more up-scale shopping possibilities. Continue east until Sanlitun Bei Lu, the heart of the city’s entertainment district: bars The Tree and Bookworm , plus restaurant Alameda are all just a few minutes’ walk from here.

Shops, Markets, and Malls

  1. Silk Market

    This four-story indoor market is the lodestone for counterfeit designer goods. Haggle as if your life depended on it (see Silk Market).

    • Jianguo Men Wai Dajie

    Sunglasses at the Silk Market
  2. Yashaw Market

    Similar to the Silk Market, but significantly less crowded and less aggressive (see Yashaw Market).

    • 58 Gongren Tiyuchang Bei Lu

    • 6415 1726

    Boots at Yashaw Market
  3. China World Shopping Mall

    The Silk Market and Yashaw Market sell the counterfeits, but this is where you come for the originals (see China World Shopping Mall and Shin Kong Plaza).

    • 1 Jianguo Men Wai Dajie

  4. Shin Kong Plaza

    Opened in April 2007, Shin Kong is a temple for luxury shopping and gourmet dining. It marked the debut appearance of many elite brands in mainland China (see China World Shopping Mall and Shin Kong Plaza).

    • 87 Jianguo Lu

    • 6530 5888

  5. Friendship Store

    Once upon a time this was officially the only store tourists could visit. Now it’s the last place you’d want to shop; it’s overpriced and has notoriously unhelpful staff. Visit only for a glimpse of how shopping in Beijing was in the good old bad old days.

    • 17 Jianguo Men Wai Dajie

    • 6500 3311

  6. Dong Jiao Wholesale Market

    This is where the traders from Beijing’s other markets come to buy their stock (see Dong Jiao Wholesale Market).

    • Dong Si Huan Zhong Lu

  7. The Place

    With its eye-catching LED screen, The Place is hard to miss. This mall offers mid-range shops like Zara, Aldo, MAC, Crocs, and Puma. There is also an English-language bookshop.

    • 9 Guanghua Lu

    • 6587 1188

    • 8561 9556

  8. Fauchon

    This French gourmet empire opened its first Chinese deli and grocery store in Shin Kong Plaza, levels B1–F2.

    • 87 Jianguo Lu

    • 6533 1266

  9. The Village at Sanlitun

    The upscale Village has shops selling fashion, sporting apparel, and electronics, plus a range of restaurants and bars.

    • 19 Sanlitun Lu

    • 6417 6110

    The Village
  10. Jenny Lou’s

    Expat heaven with genuine Dutch cheese, German bread, and French wines.

    • 4 Ri Tan Bei Lu

    • 8563 0626

NOTE

Most shops, markets, and malls tend to be open approximately 9am–9pm daily. For more details see shopping tips

Restaurants

  1. Beijing Dadong Roast Duck Restaurant

    It is the opinion of a great many Beijingers that there is no finer duck than that served here (see Beijing Dadong Roast Duck Restaurant).

    • Bdg 3, Tuanjiehu Beikou, Dong San Huan

    • 6582 2892

    • ¥¥¥

  2. Three Guizhou Men

    Test your taste buds on the likes of sour fish soup and a startling take on ribs and mashed potato (see Three Guizhou Men).

    • 6 Guanghua Xili

    • 6502 1733

    • ¥¥

  3. Afunti

    A Xinjiang restaurant, which means lamb kabobs, flat breads, plus live bands and audience participation. It may be touristy (and overpriced), but it’s fun (see Afunti).

    • 188 Denei Dajie, Chaoyang Men Nei Dajie

    • 6527 2288

    • ¥¥

  4. Bellagio

    Packed until the early hours with hip Beijingers filling up on carbs before moving on to one of the clubs up the street (see Bellagio).

    • 6 Gongren Tiyuchang Xi Lu

    • 6551 3533

    • ¥¥

  5. Guizhou Luo Luo Suan Tang Yu

    “Ghost Street” is a fun place to dine, and this hotpot specialist is one of its best eateries (see Guizhou Luo Luo Suan Tang Yu).

    • 186 Dong Zhi Men Nei Dajie

    • 6405 1717

    • ¥¥

  6. Alameda

    Beautiful modern restaurant serving Brazilian-inspired contemporary cuisine (see Alameda).

    • Na Li Market, off Sanlitun Bei Lu

    • 6417 8084

    • ¥¥¥

  7. Hatsune

    A class act: stylish Japanese restaurant with fresh fish flown in daily (see Hatsune).

    Hatsune
    • 2nd floor, Heqiao Building C, 8a Guanghua Dong Lu

    • 6581 3939

    • ¥¥¥

  8. Morel’s

    Beijing’s sole Belgian restaurant is a big expat favorite for steak and seafood, including, of course, mussels, as well as a great range of Belgian beers (see Morel’s).

    • Gongren Tiyuchang Bei Lu, Chunxiu Lu

    • 6416 8802

    • ¥¥¥

  9. Aria

    In a stunning setting, this European restaurant may give you the most satisfying dining experience in Beijing (see Aria).

    • China World Hotel, 1 Jianguo Men Wai Dajie

    • 6505 2266

    • ¥¥¥¥

  10. Green T. House

    Gimmick or culinary wonder? Make your own mind up, but certainly take a look at Beijing’s most jaw-dropping, China-meets-Alice-in-Wonderland interior (see Green T. House).

    • 6 Gongren Tiyuchang Xi Lu

    • 6552 8311

    • ¥¥¥¥

Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants are open for lunch and dinner. Only top-end places accept credit cards


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