Beijing Airport

On arrival visitors are given up to three forms to complete: health, immigration, and customs, all submitted to officials between the plane and the arrivals hall. Here there are ATMs, foreign exchange counters, public telephones, left-luggage services, over-priced restaurants, and a limited number of shops.

From the Airport into Town

The Airport Express train costs only ¥25 and travels to Dongzhimen in 16 minutes, while a taxi ride to downtown Beijing may easily cost as much as ¥100.

Subway

The subway is a swift way to get around. Lines generally operate 6am–10:30pm. Tickets cost ¥2 per ride. If you plan to travel a lot, get a refillable blue magnetic card (¥20 deposit).

• www.bjsubway.com

Buses

The city bus network is extensive and cheap. Most trips within the city center require a flat fare, which is clearly posted on the side of the bus; typically ¥1 or ¥2. A refillable blue card will reduce the cost down to 4 jiao. However, near-perpetual traffic jams mean bus journeys can often be lengthy. In addition, buses are almost always overcrowded and destinations are given in Chinese only.

• www.bjbus.com

• Hotline: 96166

Taxis

Taxis are abundant and can be hailed easily in the street. Official taxis are yellow, with stripes; avoid the illegal black ones. Make sure the driver uses the meter, which they usually only start once the journey is actually under way – so wait a moment, then say, “Dabiao” (meter), if necessary. Few taxi drivers speak English, so have your destination written down in Chinese by your hotel staff. Fares per kilometer (half mile) are posted on the side of the car. Prices start at ¥10 for the first three kilometers, then go up by ¥2 per kilometer. There is a surcharge after 11pm.

Cycling

Cycling can be a great way to explore. Bike lanes are common and roadside repair stalls are everywhere. Beijing is flat and very cyclable, but due to the heavy traffic, cycling here can be intimidating experience. Handy bike stands are found all over and have an attendant to watch the bikes for a modest fee.

Rickshaws

Bicycle rickshaws, once common in Beijing, are now relegated to the lakeside area of Hou Hai, north of the Forbidden City, where they offer tours of the old hutongs (alleys) to tourists. There are also rickshaws in the neighborhood of Ri Tan Park east of the center, which are used by locals to ferry them around after shopping at the area’s various markets.

Walking

Beijing is not a great city for walking. Most streets are inhumanely wide and traffic pollution can be choking. Exceptions include the Hou Hai area and the embassy districts of Ri Tan Park and Sanlitun. Parks such as Bei Hai, Chaoyang, Di Tan, and the Temple of Heaven Park, are also good places for strolling.

Tours

Most hotels in Beijing organize tours around the major city sights, as well as out of town to the Ming Tombs and Great Wall. Usually you don’t have to be staying at the hotel in question to sign up for an excursion. If you want to tour the city independently, be aware that car rental agencies do not accept European driving licenses. However, you can hire a driver through international agencies such as Avis (www.avischina.com).

Waterways

During the summer, months tour boats ply the city’s ancient canal system. From 10am to 4pm there are sailings on the hour from Yuyuan Tan Park, near the Millennium Monument , and from the Beijing Exhibition Hall (see Beijing Aquarium), out to the Summer Palace.