South of Tian’an Men Square
The Qian Men (front gate) at the southern end of Tian’an Men Square was once part of the inner city walls. These divided the imperial quarters of the Manchu emperors from the “Chinese city,” where the massed populace lived apart from their overlords. Walking south from the gate you are immediately plunged into a network of narrow and lively hutongs (alleys), the remnants of the old quarter. Continuing south down Qian Men Dajie eventually brings you to the western perimeter of the grounds of the Temple of Heaven, one of Beijing’s most evocative sights.
The BoxersThe Boxers, a band of xenophobic rebels from north China who rose up to rid China of the “foreign devils,” drew from superstitious rituals that they believed made them invulnerable. Supported by the Empress Dowager Cixi, the rebels laid waste to Beijing’s Legation Quarter in 1900 while besieging the district’s foreign population. The siege was eventually broken by an eight-power allied force. |
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Top 10 Sights
Urban Planning Museum
On display here are dreams of the architecture and urban landscape of Beijing to be. These are dramatically represented through the medium of film, plus a vast model that covers most of the third floor and that is viewable from a gallery above.
20 Qian Men Dong Dajie
6701 7074
Subway: Qian Men
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun
¥30
Qian Men, Dazhalan & Liulichang
A historical royal street and traditional shopping area, quaint Qian Men Dajie has a 1920s-style tram line and birdcage-like streetlamps. Running west off the northern end of Qian Men is Dazhalan Jie, an old hutong area that is great for exploring on foot or by rickshaw. It is full of Qing-era specialty shops selling pickles, silks, tea, and traditional Chinese medicine. To the west of Dazhalan is Liulichang Jie, with many restored buildings and many fascinating antique shops.
Subway: Qian Men
Dazhalan Jie
Liulichang Jie
Underground City
At the height of the Sino-Soviet rift in the 1960s, Mao Zedong gave orders to carve out a vast network of bombproof tunnels beneath Beijing. Part of this subterranean hideaway is open to the public. Guides show visitors around a circuit of dank tunnels, where signs illustrate the earlier functions of rooms, variously designated as hospitals, armories, and stores for food and water. Unlit passageways branch off from the main corridors, but many are blocked, and it is dangerous to wander off alone.
62 Xi Damochang Jie
6702 2657
Subway: Chongwen Men
¥20
Legation Quarter
At the end of the Second Opium War, in 1860, foreign delegations were permitted to take up residence in a quarter southeast of the Forbidden City. On main Dong Jiao Min Xiang and surrounding streets, the first modern foreign buildings in Beijing took root. The embassies have long since left, and new occupants have moved in.The former American legation, for instance, is now a restaurant, bar, and lifestyle complex. Also here are the former City Bank of New York, now the Beijing Police Museum, and St. Michael’s Church.
Beijing Police Museum, Legation Quarter
Subway: Qian Men
Temple of Heaven
The name refers to a vast complex that encompasses a large, marble sacrificial altar, the iconic three-story Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests, the smaller Imperial Vault of Heaven, and many ancillary buildings, all set in a landscaped park. Allow at least a half day to take in everything (see Temple of Heaven (Tiantam)).
Imperial Vault of Heaven
Temple of Heaven
Natural History Museum
An overbearing piece of 1950s architecture houses a great collection of dinosaur skeletons, as well as stuffed pandas and other animals. There are also fish, both dead (preserved in formaldehyde) and alive (in the aquarium). Visitors of a nervous disposition may want to skip the partially dissected human cadavers, also pickled in formaldehyde, which are displayed up on the third floor.
126 Tangqiao Nan Dajie
6702 4431
Subway: Qian Men, then bus 15
Open 9am–4pm daily
Natural History Museum
Ancient Architecture Museum
Housed in the Hall of Jupiter, part of the Xiannong Tan temple complex, this museum offers an excellent introduction to the ancient construction techniques of Beijing buildings, all helpfully illuminated with detailed models. A fascinating three-dimensional plan shows the city as it was in 1949, its city walls and gates largely intact.
21 Dongjing Lu
6301 7620
Bus 15 to Nanwei Lu
Open 9am–4:30pm daily
¥15
Cow Street Mosque (Niu Jie)
Beijing’s oldest and largest mosque dates back to the 10th century. It’s an attractive building with Islamic motifs and Arabic verses decorating its halls and assorted stelae. Astronomical observations were made from the tower-like Wangyue Lou. The courtyard is lush with greenery, making it an idyllic escape from the city streets. Visitors should dress conservatively, and non-Muslims are not allowed to enter the prayer hall.
Cow Street Mosque
88 Niu Jie
6353 2564
Subway: Xuanwu Men, then bus
Open 8am–sunset daily
¥10
Fayuan Temple
This temple dates back to AD 696 and is probably the oldest temple in Beijing. All this time later, it remains a hive of activity. The layout is typical of Buddhist temples. Near the gate, the incense burner is flanked by the Drum and Bell Towers to the east and west. Beyond, the Hall of the Heavenly Kings is guarded by a pair of bronze lions. The Scripture Hall at the temple’s rear stores sutras, while another hall contains a 16-ft (5-m) statue of Buddha.
7 Fayuan Si Qian Jie
6353 4171
Subway: Xuanwu Men, then bus
Open 8:30am–3:30pm daily
¥5
South Cathedral
The first Catholic church to be built in Beijing stands on the site of the residence of the first Jesuit missionary to reach the city, Matteo Ricci. Arriving in 1601, the Italian won the favor of the Wanli emperor by presenting him with gifts of European curiosities such as clocks and mathematical instruments. Ricci founded the church in 1605, although the present building dates to 1904, replacing a structure that was burned down during the Boxer Rebellion. It boasts some fine stained-glass windows.
South Cathedral
141 Qian Men Xi Dajie
Subway: Xuanwu Men
A Day South of Tian’an Men Square
Morning
Start on Tian’an Men Square, at the southeast corner beside the stripey brick Old Qian Men Railway Station, built by the British in 1901, partly to bring military forces straight to the assistance of foreigners in the event of a repeat of the siege of the Boxers. It’s now a shopping mall and Beijing Opera theater. Venture east along Dong Jiao Min Xiang into the Foreign Legation to visit the Police Museum (see Beijing Police Museum). On leaving head south to main Qian Men Dong Dajie and walk back west for a glimpse of the Beijing of the future at the Urban Planning Museum. From the museum, it is a short walk south into the hutongs for a fowl lunch at the legendary Liqun Roast Duck Restaurant .
Afternoon
After eating, if you walk south you’ll hit main Xianyukou Jie, which, followed west, becomes Dazhalan Jie. This is a great place for specialty shops. Located down the first alley on the left is century-old Liubiju, selling a vast array of pickles. Ruifuxiang, on the north side of Dazhalan, dates from 1893 and is renowned for silks. Tongrentang Pharmacy has been in business since 1669, while Zhangyiyuan Chazhuang has been trading teas since the early 20th century. At the end of Dazhalan, head north up Nan Xinhua Jie to the Ji Gu Ge Teahouse, to sample more teas in an atmospheric setting.
Shops
Hong Qiao Market
Specializing in pearls and precious stones, this vast indoor market also sells clothes, bags, and shoes (see Hong Qiao Market).
36 Hong Qiao Lu
Open 10am–7pm daily
Hong Qiao Market
Liulichang
Picturesque street renovated in the 1980s to give it that Old China look, but still fun to browse for antiques and art supplies (see Qian Men, Dazhalan & Liulichang).
Tongrentang Pharmacy
Founded in 1669, Tongrentang is China’s oldest pharmacy. The store stocks thousands of traditional medicines, some of which were used in the imperial court.
24 Qian Men Dazhalan
Ruifuxiang
Silk has been sold on this precise spot since 1893. Tailors can make blouses and qipaos (the old-style Chinese dress).
5 Dazhalan Xijie, off Qian Men Dajie
6303 5313
Open 9am–9pm daily
Panjiayuan Antique Market
Set the alarm for dawn for a treasure hunt down at Beijing’s sprawling flea market, where anything and everything turns up eventually (see Panjiayuan Antique Market).
Panjiayuan Qiao
6775 2405
Subway: Jinsong
Open 8:30am–6pm Mon–Fri, 4:30am–6pm Sat, Sun
Beijing Curio City
Just south of Panjiayuan, Curio City has four levels packed with antiques, porcelain, carpets, Buddhist statues, jewelry, and furniture.
21 Dong San Huan Nan Lu
6774 7711
Subway: Jinsong
Open 10am–7pm daily
Neiliansheng
Beijing’s best known shoe store, in business since 1853. Infamous for supplying footwear to Chairman Mao.
34 Dazhalan Jie
6301 3037
Yuanlong Silk Company
Hugely popular multi-story emporium specializing in all things silken.
15 Yongding Men Dong Jie
6702 2288
Liubiju
A jar of Chinese pickles may not be high on your list of essentials, but a visit to this colorful, 400-year-old shop should be.
3 Liangshidian Jie
Restaurants and Teahouses
Lao Beijing Zhajiang Mian Da Wang
Bustling institution serving traditional Beijing snacks. Kitsch but cheap and very tasty fare.
29 Chongwen Men Wai Dajie
6705 6705
Fengzeyuan
Specializes in Shandong cuisine, which is heavy on soups and seafood.
83 Zhushikou Xi Dajie
6303 2828
Qian Men Quanjude
The most famous of the Quanjude restaurants and the worse for it. But call by for take-away duck pancakes.
32 Qian Men Dajie
6511 2418
Gongdelin Vegetarian Restaurant
Guaranteed meat free, although many dishes feature “mock meat,” which can look like the real thing.
2 Qian Men Dong Dajie
6702 0867
Crab Apple House
A handful of charming, private rooms set around a courtyard garden. It serves a variety of regional Chinese cuisines.
32 Xi Heyan, Xuanwu Men Dong Dajie
8315 4678
Lao She Teahouse
One of the first in a recent renaissance of old-style Beijing teahouses. Performances of opera and acrobatics take place in a small, upstairs theater.
3 Qian Men Xi Dajie
6303 6830
Ji Gu Ge Teahouse
In addition to tea in all its many kinds and a variety of snacks, the Ji Gu Ge also boasts a small gallery and shop.
132–6 Liulichang Dong Jie
6301 7849
Maison Boulud
The Beijing outpost of chef Daniel Boulud serves exquisite French cuisine in the stately setting of the former American embassy.
32 Qian Men Dong Dajie
6559 9200
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