North of the Forbidden City
By far the most rewarding area to explore on foot, north of the Forbidden City stretches an almost contiguous run of lakes, either set in parkland or surrounded by swathes of charming historic hutongs. It’s an area rich in temple architecture and dotted with grand old courtyard residences. Its appeal to visitors has resulted in restaurants, bars, and shops flooding in to take advantage of the picturesque settings, but thankfully much of the growth has so far been sympathetic.
ConfuciusBorn in Shandong Province, south of Beijing, during an age of uninterrupted war, Confucius (551–479 BC) was prompted by the suffering around him to develop a practical philosophy built on the principle of virtue. Finding no audience among his native rulers, he embarked on a journey in search of a ruler who would apply his rules of governance. He never found such a person and died unrecognized. |
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NOTE
Rickshaws cluster mainly around Qian Hai offering tours around the lakes and hutongs. It’s a fine way to see the area see Rickshaw tours
Bei Hai Park
A beautiful example of a classic imperial garden, Bei Hai was a summer playground for successive dynasties that ruled from the neighboring Forbidden City. Today, it is well and truly open to the public, and thronged daily by locals who come here to socialize. There are a couple of small temples, a fine, small ornamental garden, and a noted restaurant. This is arguably the most lovely of Beijing’s many fine city parks (see Bei Hai Park).
Hou Hai
The most visitor-friendly neighborhood of Beijing, Hou Hai consists of three joined lakes surrounded by an expansive and labyrinthine sprawl of age-old hutongs (alleys). Visit for a handful of well-preserved mansions, as well as the opportunity to see a more humble form of Beijing life as it has been lived for centuries (see Hou Hai).
Hou Hai bars
Mahjong players at Hou Hai
An exercise park beside Hou Hai
Drum Tower
Drum towers (gu lou) were once found in all major Chinese towns. They housed large drums that were beaten to mark the hour, keeping the city’s civil servants on time for work. There has been such a tower on this site since 1272, although the current structure dates to 1420. Visitors can clamber up the torturously steep steps to inspect some 25 drums and be entertained by a troop of drummers that delivers skin-thumping performances on the hour.
Gulou Dong Dajie
6401 2674
Subway: Gulou Dajie
Open 9am–4:30pm daily
¥20
Bell Tower
This dates from 1745 and replaces an earlier tower that burnt down. The great 42-ton (42,674-kg) bell it contains used to be rung to mark the closing of the city gates in the evening. During Spring Festival visitors are allowed to ring the bell for a donation of ¥100. The views from both the Drum and Bell Towers over the neighboring hutongs are well worth the exhausting climb.
Gulou Dong Dajie
6401 2674
Subway: Gulou Dajie
Open 9am–4:30pm daily
¥15
Bell Tower
Nan Luogu Xiang
Less than 10 minutes’ walk east of the Drum Tower, Nan Luogu Xiang is a arguably Beijing’s hippest hutong. Still traditional in feel, the alley is home to quite a few small hotels, as well as several interesting clothing and craft boutiques, and an ever-increasing number of cafés and bars, including the excellent Pass By Bar.
Xu Beihong Memorial Museum
Set back from the road with a sign on top in green characters, and opposite a branch of KFC, this museum is dedicated to the man regarded as the founder of modern Chinese painting. It exhibits a collection of the lively watercolors of horses that made Xu Beihong (1885–1953) internationally famous.
53 Xinjiekou Bei Dajie
6225 2187
Subway: Jishuitan
Open 9am–4pm Tue–Sun
¥10 (audio guide ¥10, plus ¥100 deposit)
Former Residence of Mei Lanfang
This was the home of Beijing Opera’s greatest ever performer (1894–1961). The rear rooms have been left with their traditional furniture as it was when he died. Others contain a hagiographic account of his life, as well as diagrams of the stylized movements required by the form and a video of Mei, already 61, but still playing the young girl roles for which he was famous (see Mei Lanfang).
9 Huguosi Jie
6618 0351
Subway: Jishuitan
Open 9am–4pm Tue–Sun
¥10
Lama Temple (Yonghegong)
About a 30-minute walk east of the Drum and Bell Towers, or just a few minutes south of the Yonghe Gong subway station, the Lama Temple is Beijing’s largest working temple complex. It is filled every day with about an equal number of worshipers and visitors (see Lama Temple (Yonghegong)).
Lama Temple
Confucius Temple (Kong Miao)
Just west of the Lama Temple, the Confucius Temple was built in 1302 during the Mongol Yuan dynasty, and expanded in 1906. Around 200 ancient stelae stand in the courtyard in front of the main hall, inscribed with the names of those who success-fully passed the imperial civil service exams. On a marble terrace inside the hall are statues of Confucius and some of his disciples.
13 Guozijian Jie
8402 7224
Subway: Yonghe Gong
Open 8:30am–4:30pm daily
¥20
Di Tan Park
The park was named after the Temple of Earth (Di Tan), which was a venue for imperial sacrifices. The altar’s square shape represents the earth. These days, the park is always full of pensioners strolling, chatting, and exercising. A lively temple fair is held here at Chinese New Year.
Di Tan Park
North of Lama Temple
6421 4657
Subway: Yonghe Gong
Open 6am–9:30pm daily
Park ¥2; Altar ¥5
A Day in the Hutongs
Morning
Take the subway to Yonghe Gong for an early morning – and hopefully crowd-beating – visit to the Lama Temple. On leaving, cross over the main road and pass under the pailou (gate) at the entrance to Guozijian Jie for the Confucius Temple. Afterwards, take a break at the lovely Confucius Teahouse over the road. At the western end of Guozijian Jie turn left onto Anding Men Nei Dajie, a wide, shop-filled avenue and follow it south across Jiaodaokuo Dong Dajie and take the first right into Ju’er Hutong, one of the most vibrant of the city’s old alleys. Take the first left onto Nan Luogu Xiang, where at No. 108 you will find the charming Pass By Bar , which has a small courtyard that makes for an excellent lunchspot.
Afternoon
On leaving the Pass By, head west along Mao’er Hutong until you reach main Di’an Men Wai Dajie, where you turn right and head up the street for the splendid Drum and Bell Towers. Climb the towers to pick out the route you’ve just taken. Retrace your steps back down Di’an Men Wai Dajie taking the very first right, a tiny opening (usually marked by waiting taxis) leading into bustling Yandai Xie Jie. At the end of this crooked alley is the Silver Ingot Bridge; cross and bear left for Lotus Lane. You can stop here for coffee or head round the southern tip of the lake to Han Cang for a terrific meal of Hakka cuisine.
Bars and Teahouses
Bed Tapas & Bar
A short walk north of the Drum and Bell Towers, Bed makes the absolute most of its old courtyard house setting (see Bed Tapas & Bar).
17 Zhang Wang Hutong, off Jiu Gulou Dajie
8400 1554
Huxley’s
The house motto is “Shut up and drink.” Compliance is encouraged with cheap beer and cut-price cocktails.
16 Yandai Xie Jie
6402 7825
Lotus Bar
Another fine Yandai Xie Jie bar, this one squeezed into a narrow, two-story house with a compact, boho interior and roof terrace.
29 Yandai Xie Jie
6407 7857
Drum & Bell
A modest bar in the shadow of antiquity offering refreshment and a gentle respite from sightseeing (see Drum & Bell).
41 Zhong Lou Wan Hutong
8403 3600
Drum & Bell
Guan Tang
Cozy bar with a tranquil atmosphere, although with cocktails at just ¥30 things often don’t stay that tranquil for long.
13 Dongming Hutong
No Name Bar
The perfect lakeside drinking den. Expect stiff competition from the house cat for the best seats (see No Name Bar).
3 Qianhai Dongyan
6401 8541
Pass By Bar
It may be book-filled but the atmosphere is anything but hushed at this lending library-cum-café/bar (see Pass By Bar).
108 Nan Luogu Xiang
8403 8004
Pass By Bar
East Shore Live Jazz Café
Opened by legendary jazzman Liu Yuan. Climb steep wooden stairs to four walls of floor-to-ceiling windows and a roof terrace, plus live music.
2 Qianhai Nanyan Lu
8403 2131
Xin Bar
This little gem has colorful Yunnan decorations, leafy foliage, and a roof terrace overlooking the surrounding hutongs. As well as cheap beer there are ten types of tea.
152 Jiu Gulou Dajie
6400 7571
Fu Family Teahouse
Modeled after a Qing-era home, this teahouse is filled with antique furniture and often has live Chinese music.
Hou Hai Nan Yan
6616 0725
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Restaurants
Fish Nation
Enterprising venture serving English-style fish and chips to bar crawlers.
31 Nan Luogu Xiang
6401 3249
Cafe Sambal
An old-style courtyard house serves as the venue for exquisite dishes prepared by an authentic Malaysian chef (see Cafe Sambal).
43 Doufuchi Hutong, off Jiu Gulou Dajie
6400 4875
Kaorou Ji
Majors in Qingzhen – Hui or Muslim – cuisine, which means mutton. The house specialty is spiced barbecued lamb and sesame seed bread.
14 Qianhai Dong Yan
6404 2554
Kong Yiji
Lakeside restaurant with an enormous range of exquisite dishes from the Yangzi River delta.
Desheng Men Nei Dajie
6618 4917
South Silk Road
Spicy Yunnanese food in stylish surroundings beside the lakes (see South Silk Road).
19A Lotus Lane
6615 5515
Mei Fu (Mei Mansion)
The setting is a gorgeous courtyard house lavishly filled with antiques. Set menus of sweet and rich Shanghainese cuisine start from ¥200 per person.
24 Daxiangfeng Hutong
6612 6847
Li Family Imperial Cuisine
Intimate courtyard restaurant serving imperial court cuisine. Set menus range from ¥200 to ¥1,500 a head but the food is exquisite.
11 Yangfang Hutong
6618 0107
Open 11am–2pm, 6–10pm daily
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