Barri Gòtic & La Ribera
Though hard to imagine today, there was a time when Barcelona was just a small Roman village (named Barcino) encircled by protective stone walls. Over the centuries, the village grew, culminating in a building boom in the 14th and 15th centuries. The Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter), a beautifully preserved neighbourhood of Gothic buildings, medieval places (squares) and atmospheric alleys, exists today as a splendid reminder of Barcelona’s medieval heyday. The web of ancient, treasure-filled streets in this compact area is best explored by aimless wandering. The barrio’s centrepiece – and its religious and social heart – is the 13th–century Cathedral and surrounding complex of period buildings. Nearby, the stately Plaça del Rei is ringed by some of the best preserved medieval buildings in the area. Extending east of the Barri Gòtic is the ancient barri of La Ribera, which includes El Born. Here, the lovely Carrer Montcada is lined with medieval palaces – five of which house the must-see Museu Picasso.
El BornIf you’re hankering for a proper martini or perhaps some alternative jazz, then look no further than El Born, a musty-turned-hip neighbourhood, which was “reborn” several years ago. Students and artists moved in, attracted by cheap rents and airy warehouses, fostering an arty vibe that now blends in with the area’s old–time aura. Experimental design shops share the narrow streets with traditional, balconied buildings strung with laundry. The bustling Passeig de Born, lined with bars and cafés, leads onto the lively Plaça Comercial, where the cavernous Born Market (in operation 1870–1970) is now being converted into a cultural centre and exhibition space. |
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Sights
Barcelona Cathedral
Soaring over the Barri Gòtic is Barcelona’s mighty Cathedral dating from 1298. See Barcelona Cathedral.
Cathedral spire
Museu Picasso
Discover the youthful repertoire of one of the 20th–century’s most revered artists. See Museu Picasso.
Palau de la Música Catalana
The city’s most prestigious concert hall is a monument to both la musica Catalana and to Modernisme. See Palau de la Música Catalana.
Mosaic pillar, Palau de la Música Catalana
Plaça de Sant Jaume
The site of the Plaça de Sant Jaume was once the nucleus of Roman Barcino. With these roots, it seems fitting that the square has become home to Barcelona’s two most important government buildings: the Palau de la Generalitat (seat of the Catalan government) and the Ajuntament (city hall). Look for the detailed carved relief of Sant Jordi, Catalonia’s patron saint, on the 15th-century Generalitat façade. Within is the lovely 15th-century Capella de Sant Jordi, designed by architect Marc Safont. A highlight of the Gothic Ajuntament is the lavish red-and-gold Saló de Cent, where the Council of One Hundred ruled the city from 1372 to 1714. Also of note is the Pati dels Tarongers, a graceful patio with orange trees.
Palau de la Generalitat
Pl de Sant Jaume
Open 10:30am–1:30pm 2nd & 4th Sun of month for guided tours (ID/passport required)
Free
Ajuntament
Pl de Sant Jaume
Open 10am–1:30pm Sun for guided tours
Free
Italianate façade, Palau de la Generalitat
Conjunt Monumental de la Plaça del Rei
In the heart of the Barri Gòtic is the beautifully preserved, medieval Plaça del Rei, presided over by the 13th- to 14th-century Palau Reial (royal palace). The impressive palace complex includes the Saló del Tinell, a massive hall crowned by Gothic arches, where Ferdinand and Isabel welcomed Columbus after his 1492 voyage to the Americas. The medieval Capella de Santa Àgata has a beautiful 15th-century altarpiece by Jaume Huguet. A visit to the Museu d`Història de la Ciutat gives access to the Palau Reial and to one of the largest underground excavations of Roman ruins on display in Europe.
Pl del Rei
Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sat, 10am–3pm Sun (Oct–May: closes 2–4pm, 7pm)
Adm
DA
Plaça Reial
Late 19th-century elegance meets sangria-swilling café society in the arcaded Plaça Reial, one of Barcelona’s most emblematic and entertaining squares. The plaça is planted with towering palm trees and encircled by stately, 19th-century buildings. The Modernista lampposts were designed by a young Gaudí in 1879. At the square’s centre is a wrought-iron fountain representing the Three Graces. The square is the best place to start a big night out, with a cluster of restaurants, bars and cafés that draw the hoi polloi – including all sorts of shady pickpockets.
Museu Frederic Marès
This fascinating museum houses the life collection of wealthy Catalan sculptor Frederic Marès. No mere hobby collector, the astute (and obsessive) Marès amassed holdings that a modern museum curator would die for. Among them, an impressive array of religious icons and statues – dating from Roman times to the present – and the curious “Museu Sentimental”, which displays anything from ancient watches to fans and dolls. Also worth a visit during the summer months is the inviting Cafè d’Estiu on the museum’s sun-dappled patio.
Pl de Sant Iu 5–6
Open 10am–7pm Tue–Sat, 10am–3pm Sun
Adm
Free Wed eve & 1st Sun of month, free guided visits on request, call 93 256 35 00
Medieval arch, Museu Frederic Marès
Església de Santa Maria del Mar
The spacious, breathtaking interior of this 14th–century church, designed by architect Berenguer de Montagut, is the city’s premier example of the austere Catalan Gothic style. The church is dedicated to Saint Mary of the Sea, the patron saint of sailors, and an ancient model ship hangs near one of the statues of the Virgin. Dubbed “the people’s church”, this is the city’s most popular spot for exchanging wedding vows.
Pl de Santa Maria 1
Open 9am–1:30pm & 4:30–8pm
Disseny Hub
Housed in a pair of adjoining medieval palaces, the gallery features temporary exhibitions showcasing aspects of architecture, graphic and communications design, product design and fashion design. The small but ultra-cool museum shop sells funky clothes, accessories and design collectables, while the café beckons with outdoor tables in a shady courtyard. In 2011 the collection will be moved to a new museum currently under construction in Plaça de les Glories.
C/Montcada 12–14
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sat, 10am–3pm Sun
Adm
DA
Museu Barbier-Mueller d’Art Precolombí
Pre-Columbian art and artifacts, spanning 3,000 years, are exhibited in the 16th-century Palau Nadal. Sculpture, ceramics and detailed gold and silver pieces represent the rich artistic traditions of the Aztecs, Mayans and Incas. Temporary exhibits explore the diversity of these civilizations.
C/Montcada 12–14
Open 11am–5pm daily
Adm; free 1st Sun of month
DA
Roman Barcelona
Morning
Starting at the Jaume I metro, enter the ancient walled city of Barcino on C/Llibreteria, once the main road to and from Rome. Head right up C/Veguer to Plaça del Rei and descend into a fascinating underground web of Roman walls and waterways via the Museu d’Història de la Ciutat (see Conjunt Monumental de la Plaça del Rei). Also visible here are the remains of a 2nd-century workshop and an ancient bodega, a source of much Roman merrymaking. Back above ground, pause for a cafè sol at the terrace of Café–Bar L’Antiquari and bask in Barcelona’s Gothic glory days. Stroll towards the Cathedral’s spires along C/de la Pietat. Turn right onto C/Bisbe, once a Roman thoroughfare, then right again on Av de la Catedral to visit the Pia Almoina , where you can view a section of the Roman aqueduct and ride a glass elevator past Roman wall remains. Backtrack to Plaça Nova, once the Roman gateway to Barcino, cross the plaça and continue along C/Arcs.
Afternoon
Stop for lunch at the Reial Cercle Artistic, a late 19th-century artists’ society. Ignore the “members only” sign; the restaurant is open to the public, and its tranquil balcony terrace provides a welcome breather from the crowds far below. After lunch, head up Av del Portal de l’Àngel and turn left onto C/Canuda to Plaça de la Vila de Madrid . The square is a fitting end to your Roman ramble, for here are the necropolis remains, where Romans were laid to rest.
Best of the Rest
Carrer del Bisbe
Medieval Carrer del Bisbe is flanked by the Gothic Cases dels Canonges (House of Canons) and the Palau de la Generalitat (see Plaça de Sant Jaume). Connecting the two is an eye-catching Neo-Gothic arched stone bridge (1928).
Carrer del Bisbe
Carrer de Santa Llúcia
At weekends, amateur opera singers perform on this medieval street, home to the Casa de l’Ardiaca, which has a ravishing little patio.
El Call
El Call was home to one of Spain’s largest Jewish communities until their expulsion in the 15th century. The dark streets of this ghetto are so narrow it is said you can tie a handkerchief across their width.
Carrer Montcada
The “palace row” of La Ribera is lined with Gothic architectural gems, including the 15th- century Palau Aguilar, home to the Museu Picasso, and the 17th-century Palau Dalmases with its Gothic chapel.
Plaça de Ramon Berenguer el Gran
This square boasts one of the largest intact sections of Barcelona’s Roman walls.
Carrer Regomir & Carrer del Correu Vell
You’ll find splendid Roman remains on Carrer Regomir, most notably within the medieval Pati Llimona. Two Roman towers are revealed on nearby Carrer del Correu Vell, and there are Roman walls on the leafy Plaça Traginers.
Plaça de Sant Felip Neri
Sunlight filters through tall trees in this hidden oasis of calm. The plaça is home to the Museu del Calçat.
Plaça de Sant Felip Neri
Carrer Petritxol
This well-maintained medieval street is lined with traditional granges and xocolateries (cafés and chocolate shops). Also here is the famous Sala Parés art gallery, founded in 1877, which once exhibited Picasso, Casas and other Catalan contemporaries.
Església de Sant Just i Sant Pastor
This picturesque Gothic church (1342) has sculptures inside that date back to the 9th century.
Església de Santa Anna
Mere paces from La Rambla is the unexpected tranquillity of this Romanesque church, with a leafy, 15th-century, Gothic cloister.
Shops Gifts, Garments & Goodies
Escribà Confiteria i Fleca
If the glistening pastries and towering chocolate creations aren’t enough of a lure, then the Modernista store-front certainly is. Buy goodies to go, or enjoy them on the spot in the small café.
La Rambla 83
Como Agua de Mayo
Try this tiny boutique for original fashion and footwear by Spanish designers. The style is feminine and glamorous and the prices are surprisingly affordable.
C/Argenteria
Cocotte
Divine women’s fashions, accessories and toiletries are found in this loft-style store. Among the labels are top Spanish and French names, such as Hoss, Intropia and See by Chloé.
C/Rec 65
Atalanta Manufactura
This shop’s delicate, hand-painted silks are created in an onsite workshop. Unusual designs include a Klimt-inspired, gilded silk.
Pg del Born 10
Cereria Subirà
Founded in 1761, this is Barcelona’s oldest shop. Today you’ll find it crammed with every kind of candle imaginable.
Baixada Llibreteria 7
L’Arca de l’Àvia
Amazing antique clothing from flapper dresses to boned corsets, silk shawls, puff sleeved shirts and pin-tucked shirt fronts. There’s also a selection of antique dolls and fans.
C/Banys Nous 20
Guantería Alonso
This long-established shop is still the place to visit if you are looking for colourful hand-painted fans, handmade gloves, delicately embroidered shawls, ornamental combs and other traditional Spanish accessories.
C/Santa Anna 27
Bubó
This ultra-modern patisserie displays its sweet treats like miniature works of art. There is an adjoining café where the products can be tasted.
C/Caputxes 10
Cocktail & Conversation Spots
Bar L’Ascensor
An old-fashioned, dark-wood ascensor (elevator) serves as the entrance to this dimly-lit, convivial bar frequented by a cocktail-swilling crowd.
C/Bellafila 3
Espai Barroc
Filling the gorgeous courtyard of the 17th-century Palau Dalmases is this sumptuously decorated “Baroque Space”. Live opera and classical music are often featured on Thursday evenings, but drinks are pricey.
C/Montcada 20
Closed Mon
Ginger
An elegant bar that serves fine wines, champagne, cava, cocktails and a variety of original tapas to a glamorous crowd.
Palma de Sant Just 1
Closed Mon, Sun
Glaciar
Occupying a prime corner of Plaça Reial, this atmospheric café-bar brings in all types. Grab a spot on the terrace with a front-row view of the plaça activities.
Pl Reial 3
María Mulata
Intimate and inviting, this bar serves good mojitos and caipirinhas. Cinema night is on a Monday, on the weekend DJ sessions take over and Sundays are for chilling out.
C/Ample 27
Cactus Bar
The main draw of this little bar is the terrace with a couple of tables underneath an elegant stone arcade, which have a perfect view of Passeig del Born.
Passeig del Born 30
Gimlet
The original cocktail bar in El Born, the intimate, 1950s-style Gimlet pours nice (read: potent) cocktails to a local clientele.
C/Rec 24
Mudanzas
This long-time favourite hang-out has circular marble tables, black-and-white tiled floors and an informal, “everybody’s welcome” vibe.
C/Vidrieria 15
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Clubs & Music Venues
Fellini
The interior of this bar is a homage to Baroque with plenty of red velvet and gilt. Known for its theme nights, the Lipstick Club Monday sessions are a Barcelona classic.
La Rambla 27
93 272 49 80
Closed Tue, Wed & Sun
El Pilé 43
This hip little bar is packed with funky 1960s and 1970s retro furniture, all of which is for sale. Sink into a sofa, sip a mojito and ponder which items could be squeezed into a suitcase.
C/ Aglà 4
Fantāstico Club
Pop, electro pop, and candy-coloured decor make this club a hit.
Passatge Escudellers 3
Karma
The hippie origins and 1970s glamour at this club are as popular as ever.
Pl Reial 10
Adm
Closed Mon
Magic
Live music is played at this rock club at weekends by new, up-and-coming Spanish bands. After the show, the dancing goes on until 5:30am.
Pg Picasso 40
Adm
Closed Sun–Wed
Espai Barroc
A sumptious lounge bar, crammed with antiques, where classical music and opera is performed live every Thursday.
C/Montcada 20
Al Limón Negro
The eclectic “Black Lemon” restaurant-club features ethnic and world music concerts, performance art and occasional art exhibitions.
C/Escudellers Blancs 3
Closed Mon
Sidecar Factory Club
Barcelona’s music scene is like a motorbike to which Sidecar is inseparably bound. They say the American 6th fleet once hired the whole venue and made merry. Music, theatre, cabaret, video and good food can all be found.
Pl Reial 7
Adm
Closed Sun
Cafés & Light Eats
Cafè d’Estiu
Tucked away on the patio of the Museu Frederic Marès is this alluring, sun-strewn terrace café, replete with stone pillars, climbing ivy and orange trees.
Pl de Sant LIuc 5–6
Closed Mon & Oct–Mar
DA
Ice cream, Cafè d’Estiu
La Báscula
This quirky café, set in an old chocolate factory, has several vegetarian dishes and a range of tasty cakes on the menu.
C/Flassaders 30
93 319 98 66
Cafè-Bar del Pi
The Església de Santa Maria del Pi casts a shadow over this café’s terrace. And if you’re in that kick-back-and-do-nothing mode, street artists keep you entertained.
Pl Sant Josep Oriol 1
Closed Tue, 7–30 Jan
Tetería Salterio
Sit back and relax with tea and sweet Arab cakes. Do not miss the Sado, an Oriental style pizza with a variety of fillings.
Sant Domenec del Call 4
Closed Mon
Café Bliss
Take a break from exploring the Gothic Quarter at this friendly café. It serves divine cakes, light meals, and snacks. Ask for a table outside.
Plaça Sants Just i Pastor
93 268 10 22
Café del Born
Plaça Comercial is dotted with cafés, including the laid-back Café del Born, which evolves into an amiable bar as night descends.
Pl Comercial 10
Venus Delicatessen
Colourful and inviting, this café-restaurant serves great coffee and tea as well as fresh fare, including innovative salads such as “Erotica”, with asparagus, tuna and tomato.
C/Avinyó 25
Closed Sun, 7–30 Jan
La Granja Pallaresa
This family-run xocolateria has long been serving up thick hot chocolate and xurros (fried dough strips) for dunking.
C/Petritxol 4
Restaurants & Tapas Bars
Agut d’Avignon
A French-Catalan restaurant housed in a 17th-century building. Home-style cuisine with a twist includes duck with figs and goose flavoured with pears.
C/Trinitat 3
93 302 60 34
Closed three weeks in Jan
Comerç 24
The highlight of this innovative restaurant is the constantly changing menu. Each platillo (little plate) blends unique flavours to create an exquisite dish.
C/ Comerç 24
93 319 21 02
Closed Sun and Mon
Senyor Parellada
Excellent Catalan cuisine, including speciality bacalao (cod) and butifarra (sausage), is the deal at this restaurant.
C/Argenteria 37
93 310 50 94
Agut
For over 75 years, this friendly, family restaurant has been delighting patrons with excellent Catalan cuisine at decent prices.
C/Gignàs 16
93 315 17 09
Closed Sun eve & Mon, one week in Jan, Aug
DA
Taller De Tapas
This is part of an excellent small chain with several branches. There is a set lunch menu, or try the seafood tapas, which is particularly good.
Plaça de Sant Josep Oriol 9
93 301 80 20
Salero
The “Salt Cellar” has an all-white interior offset by flickering candles. An innovative menu features Mediterranean-Asian fusion cuisine.
C/Rec 60
93 319 80 22
Closed Sun
El Xampanyet
An old-fashioned bar popular for the fizzy cava and range of simple tapas.
C/Montcada 22
93 319 70 03
Closed Sun eve, & Mon
Govinda
This soothing eatery offers vegetarian Indian main dishes and delectable desserts, but no alcohol.
Pl Vila de Madrid 4–5
93 318 77 29
Closed Sun eve & Mon eve
DA
NOTE
Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards. For tips on dining and standard opening hours see Eating & Drinking Tips