TopTen

Seville

Andalucía's capital is an aristocratic yet relaxed city, with a fabulous and ancient cultural heritage that dates back beyond recorded history. Its fate has always been tied to its river, the Río Guadalquivir (“the great river” in Arabic), and the trade it offered the city. Today much of the riverfront is made up of an attractive tree-lined promenade. To take in all of the historic centre of Seville would require at least a week, as there is so much to see in the way of art and architecture as well as distinctive neighbourhoods each with their own charm. But its highlights, including the spectacular cathedral, Moorish and Renaissance palaces and fine museums, are all within walking distance of each other and could be handled in a weekend, giving you just a taste of one of Spain’s most beautiful cities.

1. Seville Cathedral & La Giralda

Legend has it that when the sevillanos decided to build their cathedral in the 15th century, they proclaimed their intention to erect an edifice so huge that later generations would call them mad. They achieved their aim with the largest church (by volume, not floorplan) in Christendom (for further details see Seville Cathedral & La Giralda).

2. Real Alcazar

This exotic palace was primarily the brainchild of Pedro I, who had it built as a lavish love-nest for himself and his mistress, María de Padilla (for further details see Real Alcázar, Seville).

3. Casa de Pilatos

Erroneously said to be based on the house of Pontius Pilate in Jerusalem, this 15th-century gem is the most sumptuous of Seville’s urban mansions. It is a delightful blend of Mudéjar, Gothic and Renaissance styles, punctuated with Classical statuary. Look for the carved head of the Greek boy, Antinous, who drowned and was deified by his grief-stricken lover, Emperor Hadrian, in the 2nd century (for further details see La Casa de Pilatos, Seville).prac_infoPlaza de Pilatos 1 • 954 22 52 98 • Open 9am–6pm daily (to 7pm Apr–Oct) • Adm (free Tue for EU members)

4. Museo de Bellas Artes

This museum is second only to the Prado in Madrid for its range of great Spanish paintings. Housed in a former 17th-century convent, the collection focuses on the Seville School, led by Cano, Zurbarán, Murillo and Valdés Leal, including Murillo’s touching Virgen de la Servilleta. Don’t miss El Greco’s poignant portrait of his son and the polychrome terracotta of St Jerome by Florentine sculptor Pietro Torregiano, a colleague of Michelangelo (for further details see Museo de Bellas Artes, Seville).prac_infoPlaza del Museo 9 • 955 54 29 42 • Open Jun–Sep 15: 9am–3:30pm Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm Sun; Sep 16–May: 10am–8:30pm Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm Sun • Adm (free for EU members)

5. Fabrica Real de Tabacos

Now a part of Seville University, this handsome 18th-century edifice is the second-largest building in Spain, after El Escorial in Madrid. Famous for its fun-loving female workers, who at one time rolled three-quarters of Europe’s cigars, the old factory has been immortalized by Carmen, the world’s most popular opera. The doomed heroine, a hot-blooded gypsy cigarrera, remains, for many, the incarnation of Spanish passion.prac_infoC/San Fernando 4 • Open 8am–8:30pm Mon–Fri • Free

6. Ayuntamiento

This building has been the town hall since the 16th century. Inside, the rooms are decorated with historic paraphernalia of the city and the monarchy, in a blend of Gothic and Renaissance styles. Outside, the façades reflect the evolution of taste, from the original Renaissance Plateresque work with its finely carved stonework, to the 19th-century attempt to copy the style, seen from Plaza de San Francisco (for further details see Ayuntamiento, Seville).prac_infoPlaza Nueva 1 • 954 59 01 45 • Open for pre-booked guided tours only, mid-Sep–Jun: 5:30 & 6pm Tue–Thu, noon Sat • Free

7. Plaza de Espana

This semicircular plaza was designed as the centrepiece for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929. Almost completely covered with gorgeous glazed tiles, its surfaces depict historic moments and heraldic symbols of the 40 regions of Spain. A boating canal follows the arc of the structure, crossed by colourful footbridges. The site was used as a set in the film Star Wars: Attack of the Clones, for its other-worldly feel.

8. Museo Arqueologico

This Renaissance-style pavilion was also one of the fabulous structures created for the 1929 Exposition and now houses Andalucía’s principal archaeological museum. The assemblage of artifacts ranges from Paleolithic finds, exhibited in the basement, to splendours of Roman and Moorish art. Outstanding are the Carambolo treasures of Tartessian gold, and the Roman sculpture collection is Spain’s most prestigious.prac_infoParque María Luisa • 955 12 06 32 • Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–3:30pm Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm Sun; mid-Sep–May: 10am–8:30pm Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm Sun • Adm

9. Torre del Oro & Torre de Plata

Tradition states that the imposing 13th-century Moorish dodeca­hedral (12-sided) watchtower, the Torre del Oro (Tower of Gold), is named after the golden tiles that once adorned it. Others say its name derives from its use as a warehouse for the gold coming in from the New World during Seville’s heyday. It now houses a small maritime museum. Nearby stands the Torre de Plata (Tower of Silver), a more modest octagonal tower, which most likely gets its name as a complement to its neighbour. Both towers originally formed part of the city’s defences.

prac_infoTorre del Oro • Paseo de Colón • 954 22 24 19 • Open Sep–Jul: 10am–2pm Tue–Fri, 11am–2pm Sat–Sun; Adm (except Tue)

prac_infoTorre de Plata • C/Santander • Closed to the public

10. Cartuja de Santa Maria de las Cuevas

This 15th-century monastery has had its ups and downs over the centuries. During Spain’s Golden Age it was the favoured retreat of Christopher Columbus, whose remains were interred here for several decades. The monks went on to decorate their vast enclave with commissions from some of Seville’s greatest artists – most of the works are now in the Museo de Bellas Artes. In 1841 it became a ceramics factory. Finally restored as part of Expo ‘92, the complex is today home to a contemporary art museum.

prac_infoIsla de Cartuja

prac_infoCentro Andaluz de Arte Contemporaneo • 955 03 70 70www.caac.es • Open 11am–9pm Tue–Sat, 11am–3pm Sun • Adm (free 7–9pm Tue–Fri and all day Sat)

Feria de Abril

The six-day Spring Fair, about two weeks after Easter, is a riot of colour and high spirits. Andalucían horses strut on parade, ridden by caballeros in traditional leather chaps, waistcoats and wide-brimmed sombreros cordobeses, often with dazzling, flower-like women perched behind. The air is alive with music, the fairgrounds overflow with casetas (party marquees – most of them by invitation only), and drinking and dancing continue until dawn. All the Feria festivities take place south of the river.


A Half-Day Walk Around the Barrio de Santa Cruz

Start at the exit to the Real Alcázar, which is on Patio de las Banderas. Turn right to find the Arco de la Judería, a covered alleyway that leads to the Callejón del Agua, running along the old Jewish Quarter’s southern wall. As you proceed, you will be able to peep into some of the famously lush patios of these perfectly whitewashed houses. The writer Washington Irving once stayed at No. 2. After the wall ends, you’ll see the Jardines de Murillo on your right, where you can enjoy a tranquil stroll.

Then turn back to find Plaza Santa Cruz, where the church that gave the neighbourhood its name once stood, until it was burned down by the French in 1810. A 17th-century wrought-iron cross stands here now. Cross a couple of streets west to find the Hospital de los Venerables, and take in its delightful central courtyard and important art gallery. From here, go east to Calle Santa Teresa 8, the former home of the great artist Bartolomé Murillo, who died here in 1682 after a fall while painting frescoes in Cádiz.

Finally, work your way back towards the Cathedral (for further details see Seville Cathedral & La Giralda) along Calle Mesón del Moro and then to Calle Mateos Gago. At No. 1 you’ll find the Cervecería Giralda (), excellent for a drink and some tapas for either lunch or dinner.

Tapas Bars & Nightlife

1. Sala Malandar Luxuria

Come to this relaxed club for an eclectic array of music – from funk and rare groove to reggae and ska via soul, folk and indie pop – supplied by either live bands or DJs.prac_infoC/Torneo 43 • 954 37 01 88 • No credit cards

2. Naima Cafe

Small but rich in atmosphere, this jazz bar has a relaxed, unpretentious feel. Jazz memorabilia adorns the wall, and there is live music at the weekend.prac_infoC/Trajano 47 • No credit cards

3. Casa Morales

Reputedly the second-oldest bar in town (1850), and it doesn’t seem to have changed much. Drinks are still poured from old casks. Simple tapas.prac_infoC/García de Vinuesa 11 • 954 22 12 42

4. Antigüedades

The interior decor of this bar changes every few months, but it is always delightfully eccentric, with masks, bizarre dolls or giant tarantulas. The reasonably priced beers make it popular with locals and tourists alike.prac_infoC/Argote de Molina 40 • No credit cards

5. GastroSol Tapas

Six different tapas bars share the same dining area in the mirador (viewing area) atop the Metropol Parasol complex, with outstanding views of the city centre.prac_infoPlaza de la Encarnación • 954 21 72 25

6. El Rinconcillo

The city’s oldest taberna dates from 1670 and is an essential stop on your Seville itinerary. Said to be the place where tapa was invented.prac_infoC/Gerona 40 • 954 22 31 83

7. Antique

Dress to impress at Seville’s most upscale club, and you might just get past the doormen. In summer, the outdoor terrace Aqua hosts live performances of all types. Be ready to party until sunrise.prac_infoC/Matemáticos Rey Pastor y Castro, La Cartuja • 954 46 22 07

8. Terraza At Eme Fusion

This is the place to see and be seen. Enjoy the spectacular views of the cathedral and the Giralda while sipping a cocktail. Reservations recommended.prac_infoC/Alemanes 27, 4th Floor of EME fusionhotel • 954 56 00 00 • Closed in winter

9. El Garlochi

An institution in Seville, El Garlochi is one of the city’s most unusual bars thanks to its religious decor. Expect Baroque exuberance and lively locals.prac_infoC/Boteros 26 • 663 62 39 04

10. Puratasca

Discover delicious twists on the classics at this friendly fusion tapas bar, where the menu changes with the seasons. There is seating outdoors.prac_infoC/Numancia 5 • 954 33 06 80

More Places to Eat

1. Torre de los Perdigones

Traditional Spanish cuisine with a twist. Start with the risotto with wild mushrooms and asparagus, then try the seared tuna tataki.prac_infoC/Resolana • 954 90 93 53 • Dis. access • €30–€40

2. El Aguador

This stylish restaurant offers regional cuisine with a imaginative twist. Try the mouthwatering beef cheeks glazed with Pedro Ximenez sauce.prac_infoC/Albareda 14 • 954 22 47 20 • €20–€30

3. El Modesto

El Modesto Enjoy classic garlic shrimp and excellent home-made paella at this good-value spot.prac_infoC/Cano y Cueta 5 • 954 22 61 22 • under €20

4. La Albahaca

Set in a converted mansion, decorated with azulejo tiles. The seasonal menu may feature fish, wild mushroom dishes or game.prac_infoPlaza Santa Cruz 12 • 954 22 07 14 • €30–€40

5. Albarama

Facing Plaza de San Francisco, the modern decor here sets the mood for innovative dishes, such as hamburgesa de atún con tartar de aguacate (tuna burger with avocado tartare).prac_infoPlaza de San Francisco 5 • 954 22 97 84 • €30–€40

6. Casa Placido

Convenient for all the major sights, this venerable bar has hams dangling, barrels of sherry, old posters and traditional tapas.prac_infoC/Mesón del Moro 5 & C/Ximenes de Enciso 11 • 954 56 39 71 • €20–€30

7. Taberna del Alabardero

This restaurant has earned itself a Michelin star. The setting is sumptuous, while the menu excels in meat dishes and local seafood.prac_infoC/Zaragoza 20 • 954 50 27 21 • €30–€40

8. Abades Triana

This modern restaurant has a commanding location on the river. Diners can book a spot in El Cubo, a private area with a “floating” glass floor. Renowned chef Willy Moya presides over the kitchen.prac_infoC/Betis 69 • 954 28 64 59 • DA • over €50

9. Eslava

This tapas bar offers specialities such as costillas a la miel (honeyed pork ribs).prac_infoC/Eslava 3–5 • 954 90 65 68 • €30–€40

10. El Faro de Triana

On the Triana side of Seville’s oldest bridge, this place has superb views, as well as simple, traditional food.prac_infoPuente de Isabel II • 954 33 61 92 • DA • €30–€40

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